Biggie
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Posts posted by Biggie
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Yea its kind of funny how markets can be so different. At one time in the US Milwaukee had a price premium but as of recently they are almost identical on most things and in some cases like flagship bare tools, ex. hammer drill and impact driver, Dewalt has actually taken a slight lead in higher prices.
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Yea the dcf894 is exactly what it's advertised as being and falls right in the middle of a high torque and compact. Its still enough bigger than the compact where I would say you'll still use the compact where you can but it is nice to have another option before you pull out a high torque.
This was just a picture I had, the compact is a dcf880 but I could get you some better comparison pictures with a dcf887 if you wanted.
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I know this is kind of an old topic but I got the 2767 shortly after it came out. I really should have got the 2766 for the work we do but I already had the 2763 and wanted the big torque numbers that the 2767 had. So I finally got the 2766 the other day and while I expected the it to be an electronic detuned 2767 with a detent pin instead of a hog ring I was suprised to find out I was wrong.
The 2766 pin detent model actually has a shorter front nose cone with a smaller and lighter hammer mechanism. I know it's not much of a difference only being a 1/4" shorter and .4 lbs lighter. I was just suprised they actually engineered two different hammer mechanism.
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Well I guess we're going to try the dch293. If I still need a sds max I can always get one later but I know either way this will see plenty of use. Also picked up a concrete vibrator.
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Here's a guy that had a similar problem but I don't know if he ever found a solution.
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Thought it was interesting that the new dcf896 mid range "tool connect" model has the same max torque of 330ft/lbs but has an advertised break away torque of 600ft/lbs. I'm sure the dcf894 has the same break away torque but they just never put a number on it. Not that break away specs really add up to real world numbers, but it is probably why its comparable in real world to the m18 mid torque.
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I have to admit I fell for the big torque specs of the 2767 and while it's great for equipment maintenance in the shop, this 2766 is more practical for our jobsites working at heights.
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I would second pretty much everything builditguy said about the dcg412. Corded models will be cheaper and more powerful especially for grinding but the convenience of being cordless out weighs that on our jobsites and the corded models collect dust on the shelf. We also have brushless models and while they will give you more runtime, they aren't really neccesary for diy. The dcg414 is the closest to a corded grinder but overkill for what you need and it would require you to get flexvolt batteries.
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I had the same issue with my m12 3/8" non fuel ratchet. It seems like there were some youtube videos and forum topics about it. If I remember right it was supposed to be a cheap easy fix but I just sent mine into milwaukees e-service and they sent me a brand new one. Its not a tool I use on a regular basis so it wasn't a big deal sending it in but I also hadn't hardly used it enough to break it either. I also thought the fuel version was supposed to have a beefed up head that could take more torque without breaking though.
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Yea it looks like the 54/60v sds max is the real deal especially compared to the milwaukee. The 1 1/8" sds plus 54v from dewalt catches my attention but it's not available in the US, maybe it's not much different than the 18/20v.
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I had a 5.0 go this fall with a build date 2016 36-47 1-1. I sent it in to a factory service center beginning of November 2018 and got a new one back 2 weeks later no questions asked. And no it didn't look like new.
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Yea we had plenty of trouble with dewalts back in the stick 18v days and then when we switched to the "20v max" slide pack batteries the first set we got had a switch go out on an impact and grinder when they were just over a year old and out of warranty. We fixed the switches but it was at that point we started switching over to m18. That was about five years ago and I would say while I still think milwaukee feels like its better quality, I have had to use the warranty more times than I'd like. We've also grown our dewalt 20v line and had some other issues with newer tools but the original 5 year old set is all still running. I've just come to the conclusion that every brand is going to have some problems when they're used and abused on a job site everyday.
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So while I know prices in different parts of the world are going to be different, some of the pricing doesn't make sense. I just see that the regular brushless grinder is 185 and the flathead is 165. In the US the regular brushless is $170 and the flathead is $280. I hope this just means there will be a drastic price cut on the flathead in the US but I doubt it.
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I have the surge as well as gen 1, 2, and 3 fuel impact drivers. Like Chris said the noise reduction is huge which makes it ideal for indoor and tight quarters work. I would also agree on small fastners you get a lot of feel and control. It's not going to be the tool for driving lag bolts. While it maybe could do it, I wouldn't use it for high production work where you're driving hundreds of screws one after another. Not sure if the self tapping mode is something you're interested in but I personally have never had much success using those modes on any impact.
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I'm not necessarily looking to be cheap it's just that if milwaukee and dewalt are equal in performance in that size I have no reason to throw away $100.
I'm also not opposed to getting a bigger sds max but after watching Oz tool talk rotary hammer comparison I don't know if that's the answer. It looks like the bigger hammers hit harder but have a lower bpm and on a 3/4" hole it looked like the 1 1/8" drills were faster.
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We currently have a m18 fuel 1" 2712 , a dewalt 1" dch133, and over the years we've had multiple corded 1" sds rotary hammers as well. For most of our work this size suits us very well as most of our concrete anchors are 3/8"-5/8" but more recently we've gotten into some bigger jobs that require 3/4" and 7/8" holes. The 1" drills can drill these larger holes but its pretty hard on them because we're drilling 30-50 holes 10" deep one after another. This isn't an everyday task as we typically set these larger anchors in wet concrete but a few times a year we get stuck drilling. So I'm looking to add a larger rotary hammer for these jobs and my question is will a 1 1/8" drill be enough of a bump in performance or do I need to be looking at a sds max 1 9/16". From the online reviews I've seen from places like OZ Tool Talk it looks like the bigger sds max drills don't really shine until you get up into holes over 1". I think I want to go cordless as we have a pretty good collection of batteries and while I do like my milwaukee tools and the 2712, it does seem that in most of the comparison videos I've seen the dewalt rotary hammers are the better of the two. Does anyone have any real world experience drilling 3/4"-7/8" holes and what size drill are you using? I'm really thinking a m18 fuel 1 1/8" 2715 or the dewalt 20v 1 1/8" dch293 is what I want to go with and I think the dewalt might be a better drill but the dewalt is $400 and the m18 $300 right now.
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Did the same thing with my 20v max chain saw.
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Got a couple little toys... I mean tools for Christmas.
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The one feature of the mid range impact that I disagree with is on both high and low settings reverse is still max speed and torque. They already have the auto mode designed for taking off lug bolts/nuts. I just don't know why when they can conceive the situation where I might not want to have full power in forward, why can't conceive the same scenario in reverse. I know there is still a variable speed trigger but the same could be said about any situation so then why even have speeds. Its just not true to say well any time I'm in reverse I want to have full torque and that is their engineers approach to it. There are plenty of situations where I'm removing a delicate bolt that the last thing I want to do is snap it off.
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It's really hard to say who should or shouldn't buy brushless because everyone uses tools differently. At work I love the runtime we get with brushless tools but doing small projects around the house brushed tools are more than adequate for me. That being said we ran the brushed recip. saws on our construction sites for years and while they can be battery hungry in certain situations, I would think a couple 4.0ah or 5.0ah batteries would keep you pretty satisfied. I'm no expert when it comes to circular saws but I know there was a topic not to far back that was discussing the dcs570 and there were a number of guys who said for a 20v saw they prefer the brushed dcs393 with a 6.0ah battery over the brushless dcs570. I guess what I'm trying to get at is brushless isn't neccesary for everyone.
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The hammer drill and impact are brushless but the recip. and circ. saws are not.
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The dcd996 hammer drill and dcd991 drill should be exactly the same except the hammer function. They have the same power, speeds, and chucks. I do know that milwaukee doesnt put the same chuck on their non hammer drill as their hammer drill, the hammer drill has carbide inserts in the chuck and the non doesn't. But the dewalt dcd996 and dcd991 both have the carbide insert chuck. I couldn't tell you what the dewalt compact drills (dcd796 and dcd791)have for chucks.
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Intermittent electical issues with these brushless tools can be annoying. I've had some tools that will act up once for no apparent reason and never do it again. But usually when they're well used once they start having intermittent issues they keep happening more often until they become pretty much unusable. The one good thing about diagnosing brushless tools is that because all of the components are soldered and podded you can only buy a motor and switch assembly. The assembly is one part that replaces the trigger, motor, and all the wiring. The only problem is they usually cost in the neighborhood of $60-90 if you can find one on ebay and on ereplacement parts right now it's $117. Which if the impact is already well used I would think you would be far better off starting off with a new impact. New dcf887 are available on ebay for $80 or if you want a new in box there are a lot of holiday deals right now.
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I had a dcd995 that would slip and grind in 3rd gear once put under a load. It was acting like it was clutching out but it worked just fine in 2nd and 1st gear. So I took it apart to find that the gear and shifter were wore enough that they were acting like ramps. I replaced the gear assembly and shifter assembly and it's solved the problem. The drill is 5 years old and it was a fairly inexpensive fix. I was actually impressed it was the first time the tool had been opened up.
It's kind of hard to see in the pictures but the wear is on the inside teeth on the shifter ring and the outer teeth on the top ring of the gear assembly.
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Battery release buttons
in Hitachi/Metabo
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I have no experience with metabo but any tool review I've ever seen it looks like its somewhat awkward. I'm sure like anything you get used to it and they're probably just used to the button being on the battery.
One thing I would say about other batteries though, is while a single button might be easier to take off when you want to, I find that they are easier to come off when you don't want them to as well. The dewalt seems real prone to falling off the high torque impact and sawzall. I also find with my bosch its like they have two catches on the tool and they don't always fully latch on the second catch and I'll start using it and once it vibrates you loose connection.