Pouet

Dewalt already has a usb power inverter. This one is only able to output 150 w so it won't be able to power anything other than electronics so I don't see the big deal.

20v dewalt. 12v Milwaukee. Problem solved :-) Just kidding but most of the Milwaukee exclusive stuff is 12v anyway so I prefer the M12 line to the M18 line and since the Dewalt 12v system is dead, it's a good complement. One place where Dewalt sucks thought is in the lighting department and it's probably Milwaukee strongest area. But there are lot of M12 options if you go down that road.

32 amps is the output not the input. The voltage is already reduced from 120v to 20v at that point so you can push a lot more current without tripping the breaker. You have to look at it in terms of power not amps. A 15A breaker will trip when the instantaneous power goes over 120v *15a = 1800 W. If you are charging 20v batteries, it means you got 1800W/20V = 60A avaible not 15A. Of course, this is just an approximation since we are not taking in account the energy loss by the power supply and other stuff, but it gives you an idea of what's possible. The problem is not the current availabe but the heat build up with these high currents. You need some ventilation to clear it out.

Flexvolt 1/2 router would be great.

Love the tstak boxes. Really cheap and tons of options. I especially like the totes to store hand tools. The only thing I would change is on the two drawer units. I would like it to have a transparent lid on the drawers so you can put fasteners in there. I buy empty kreg screw boxes to solve the problems. They fit perfectly inside the drawer. Oh and be aware that if you put a drawer unit at the bottom of your stack, it will drag a bit. Not too much but it can be annoying. It's the the way the feet are designed that is the problem. I would relly love a tstak charging station in the future.

I bough my first Dewalt tool two years ago just before Flexvolt was announced. Couple of reasons. Really loved the ergonomics, they were offering some cordless nailers which I was really interested in, they had a good selection of wood focused tools and they are not super expensive. I was also interested in Milwaukee but I decided to go yellow because the tools were more expensive and they have some sort of exclusive deal with Home Depot here. Dewalt is sold everywhere so it's much easier to find great deals while Home Depot tools are pricier than anywhere one else in Canada so I was not interested in buying my tools from them. Of course, you can always buy online or from a tool dealer but your choices are more limited. I may buy into Milwauke 12v in the future though, especially for their plumbing tools. I wasn't really interested in Makita because I was under the impression they were more interested in being 'first' them producing great tools (which is wrong, Makita tools are great quality). They had like 5 different impacts and I don't like when a brand does that. It really get confusing and their web site is not helping. I was also interested in Bosch but their lineup is so behind what's available in Europe and elsewhere that it wasn't making any sense to go down that road.

I expect tons of new stuff this time. They haven't released anything new since the concrete saw back in january. Last fall was pretty quiet too. Last year, we were getting around two new tools per month. Hopefully the 12v rumor iys true this time :-)

Your maths are off. Why 4 rows in parallel? The voltage and the number of rows are not linked together. The voltage is determined by the number of cells in series in a given row, not the number of rows. Each row has the same voltage but the more rows you had, the more current you can push. Therefore, you can add as much as you want to increase the amount of current your battery can push.

Let's take the flexvolt grinder. Under heavy use, it has a runtime of about 5 or 6 minutes with a 6ah battery (6ahx18v=108wh). Checkout Ave video if you don't believe me. 6 minutes = 10% of a hour. Therefore the grinder is consumming 108whx10=1080w. To produce the same output with a 18v, you will need to push around 1080/18=60 A.

I don't understand why people complain about 60v tools but everyone want Dewalt to expand their 12v line. I never heard anyone complaining that you can't use a 20v battery on a 12v tool...

Heat is far from being the main issue here. Yes you have to deal with it but above all heat is a byproduct of power lost to resistance and that's what you have to take care of. Each time some current go through a resistance, some energy is taken from the battery to produce heat instead of useful work. This results in batteries that are draining faster so you really want to minimize these losts. Now, with a 18v source instead of a 54v one, you need three times the current. But the higher the current, the higher the power loss through the resistance. So what it's mean is that now you need to be really careful when you design your circuit. You have to make sure to select components with a low resistance, otherwise your battery will be depleted much more quickly than the 54v tool. It can be done obviously but I wonder if it will cost more.

Flexvolt dust collector Flexvot drywall sander 20v mixer (the flexvolt one is too big and expensive for what I need) 20v tube cutter cordless handheld wet/dry tile cutter that can ride on the Dewalt rails cordless router more light options

Some tools like a router, a sander, a grinder, a vacuum, ... have a pretty short run time on a battery. Having an adapter would make lot of sense when you want to run the tool in the shop without continously swapping batteries. And it's better than having both cordless and corded tools if you ask me...

It was announced at JLC Live 2018. Hopefully the tracks will be cheaper than the Maffell branded one :-) Should be released around September.

Hitachi is not just a tool seller. Kkr only bought the tool division not the entire company like Metabo.

The DWARA100 attachment works pretty well. This is what I have used to do my kitchen. It's not the greatest way to drill in a confined space but it works. The best tool for this job would be the Bosch Flexiclick in my opinion. I would also buy a flex shaft attachment just in case.

Btw the way, be careful with the silica dust if you are drilling inside. You need a mask and a shopvac as you don't want to breath this stuff.

You need a rotary hammer to drill into concrete. A hammer drill is very slow and a poor subsitute. You can rent one.

The mafell jigsaw can pretty much replaces a band saw I believe except for resawing and small parts.

Mafell?

Also don't connect stranded wire directly to the screw terminals. It's not a safe connection. Crimp some ferrules to your wires first instead. Much better and safer. Tinning the wire is not a good idea either.

Usually you drive relays with a transistor because an arduino can't push enough current to do it. The transistors seem to be built-in on your board so it should be okay. Just make sure to power the relay board with an independant power supply and not the arduino. Otherwise, you will pull too much current from it, which will lower the entire board voltage making the cpu crash and restart.

Not enough space. To support 12v batteries, they would need to add a second transformer (120v->12v). This take up space but they need that space in a fast charger for the fan. They could of course have made a bigger charger but I don't think people would have been happy about it. In a 4 bays charger, you have more than enough space to add a second transfomer so it's not a problem.

I think there is some confusion on the term track saw. A track saw is not necessarily a plunge saw. Bosch and Dewalt european circular saws can ride on a rail. And look at the kss saws by Mafell (or festool hk clones) to see how great a regular circular saw can be. And plunge saws can be used without a rail (with an edge guide for instance). So if you need a saw that rides on a rail, it doesn't have to be a plunge saw even though we don't have a lot of choices in north america in that department other than the festool hk and hkc models. Now about a plunge saw vs a normal saw. I think you need both just like you need a free handed router and a plunge one. A plunge saw is useful if you want to do precise plunge cuts (obviously) or if you want almost perfect dust collection (since there is a cover over the blade). It is also great when you are cutting sheet goods and you wan't to avoid chipping on both sides of your cuts (since you can put splinter guards on both sides of your blade, something you can't do with a regular circular saw). This is why a plunge saw is so useful to trim carpenters and cabinet installers who work inside with finish materials. The benefits of a regular circular saw though is that it is much easier to handle it when you are ripping or cross cutting narrow stocks since your saw doesn't need to be supported by the wood piece you are cutting. The balance is also much better since you are not plunging your saw in your cut. So I think a plunge saw could make a lot of sense in your case especially if you are working inside.

Yes a cooler finally :-)