kat

They are only held by one side instead of 3 sides like on the other tools

I guess you are right. I just wanted to know what's the current state of my batteries...

It looks like the adapter from the coffee maker has a different and unusual DC connector. The one from the heat jacket looks like a standard connector. I have the ADP05 but 5V is not enough for my soldering iron. I need at least 12V, and 18+ would be ideal because it gets hot faster.

Makita has an interesting battery adapter with a DC plug output. Model number is PE00000028 and it appears to be used by the Makita heated jacket. I was thinking I could use it to power some small electronics, like a soldering iron that accepts a 5.5 mm DC plug and up to 24V. But I can't find anywhere the specs for it. Like what's the output voltage through that plug, and max amp draw, and maybe the type of plug. Does anyone here have the heated jacket with this adapter? Maybe they are printed on it on the other side? Another idea I had is to get this cheap USB adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2A-Blue-Battery-Dual-USB-Charger-Adapter-Tools-for-Makita-BL1830-1430-Adapter/282546633419 Then extract it contents and attach to it my own wires and plug. What do you think?

I tried connecting the battery to a drill with some copper plates and alligator clips and put the clamp meter in between, but the drill doesn't work correctly. The light turns on, the motor starts to spin for like 1 seconds and then it stops. I guess I need to use wires and find bigger clips

By drop, you mean a drop from the initial amp draw value that is displayed on the multimeter? Like after a few seconds? So basically if the amp draw is constant the battery is ok?

But how can I test it under load if there's nowhere I can put the multimeter leads when battery is connected to a tool?

Is the voltage a good indicator of battery life? I tested one fully charged 3Ah battery and it showed 19.5V. Another fully charged 5Ah battery showed 19.9V. I don't have a new one to test but I think the "normal" voltage should stay at 4.2 * 5 = 21V. Right?

Why is it so expensive?? At least in Europe. The "normal" 240V AC rapid charger is like 40 euro, but the 12V car charger is over 100 euro! And why is it so big? Charging 3.7V batteries from 12V input shouldn't require complicated electronics. And what's up with the "Don't accelerate" sign? All the electronics that I run on the cigarette lighter work fine when i accelerate, but the Makita charger doesn't?!

The battery part looks very flimsy. That space will cause them to rattle and get damaged..

Does anybody know if the Makita "TD170" impact drivers that are floating around on ebay are real and the same as DTD170 ? Also, there's a newer TD171 model, sold the same way... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Makita-TD171DZB-Impact-Driver-18V-2018-Latest-Model-ONLY-BODY-Black-Free-Ship/162921330587 Are they real, genuine, or different from the "official" models in any way? I see they are sold in many weird color options, like red, black, pink, green...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-TD170DZ-impact-driver-pink-TD170DZP-18V-body-only-made-in-japan-New/222601254746

no, it's that useless battery locking device with the pin thing..

Why so aggressive? I'm just stating facts, or at least my views based on my experience. kornomaniac: I'm not full of shit, that's what happened. If you managed to get 7 holes, good for you, but take into account that I drilled my holes in my house to get 2 pipes through them, not in some test plate. It seems to be that most of these new cordless tools are marketed towards hobbyists, and not professionals. And it's pretty obvious why: hobbyists are very enthusiastic about new technologies and they often use emotions when making decisions. Perfect customers Professional on the other hand, don't care about tech, they simply want a tool to do its job, so the only things that matter to them are real-world performance (not the paper specs or irrelevant results from youtube review videos) and costs-to-performance ratio. I don't live in the US, so I don't know what professionals use right now there, but in Europe "heavy" cordless tools are rarely present on job sites. And for a good reason: they are unable to perform nearly as well as corded tools.

SDS max rotary hammers are not yet ready for batteries. And probably never will because of the large amount of torque they need. Batteries can't even power the SDS plus ones. I have the DHR243 and drilled two 18mm holes with a 3Ah battery. After the 1st hole the tool was struggling, and when it finished the 2nd hole, the battery was discharged. Battery-powered rotary hammers are a joke compared to corded hammers. It's nice to be cordless, but not at the cost of having a useless tool. Same goes for angle-grinders, except those can be at least used to cut thin stuff, maybe even some _very_ light grinding. People need to stop jumping in the cordless bandwagon just because of the hype, and without any thinking about the practical side. I'd love to have all my tools cordless, but let's be honest, there's no battery technology that could make that feasible in the near future. Li-ion have serious limitations and they can not provide the large amount of power needed for 1000+ watt tools. Unless you build a battery with 10kg worth of cells, which is impractical. And all this with high drain cells, which die very fast compared to "normal" 500-cycle cells. That's probably why most tool batteries die so fast

Wow that has to be the most useless "protection" device ever invented

I wouldn;t get the 6 ah battery yet. It's very likely that it will die fast. The tech needs to settle down because all the latest cells are not reliable enough

Considering that the cells in these batteries allow 20A discharge each, is it safe to use them to jump start a car when needed? I saw a video on youtube where a guy that said he jump-started a truck with a Makita battery! I was thinking to make one out of a Makita USB adapter case. Basically drill 2 holes in it and attach 2 clips to the connectors.

Samsung inr18650 25r are good cells. They support a max of 20A discharge. What about the Sony cells? What model is it? I heard that Bosch batteries are the best and last the longest and that Makita's batteries are the worst and die pretty quickly

Does anyone know what kind of cells do Makita batteries use? I noticed the 4ah battery has the text 5INR19/65-2 text printed on it and the 5ah has 5INR19/66-2. What does that mean? And some say "Made in vietnam", others "Cell made in Singapore. Pack processed in China". What does pack processing mean? Is China bad? And can we find out how many cycles did a battery complete, like on milwaukee?

The convenience, yes. The power? lol. makita_2233 why don't you make a youtube video and cut something thick with the DGA900 and then with a cheap 230mm grinder and shows which is the most powerful

Btw I have the DGA506 model and a cheap no-name $30 corded 115mm grinder, and the corded grinder is actually more powerful than the 125mm Makita. I can only cut thin material with the Makita, it's almost useless

It can't put out 2000 watts, there's no battery technology to support that kind of output yet. At most they can discharge 20A per cell and at 36V that gives off 720W of power assuming no losses. But in the real world power transmission is not perfect so this grinder probably peaks at 600 watts max. I like Makita tools, but let's be realistic, this one is clearly inferior to any corded model. Brushless motors are mostly a marketing gimmick. In theory they should be 10-15% more efficient, but in practice no tool manufacturer made a brushless tool that is more powerful that the brushed counterpart and has the same weight/size.

This looks like a huge fail. Look at the difference compared to the corded model. The motor on that one is waaaay beefier. 700W for a 230mm angle grinder? Seriously?

So you're saying that the 5 ah and 6 ah Makita batteries which use 2500 and 3000 mah cells will wear and overheat faster?

ok do you know what kind of cells do each of their batteries use? By the size of them it looks like the 3, 4, 5, 6 ah have 10 cells, and the 1.3 ah has 5 cells. So the 1.3 ah has 1300 mah cells. The 3 ah has 1500 mah cells. The 4 ah has 2000 mah cells. The 5 ah has 2500 mah cells and the 6 ah has 3000 mah cells. but what brand and model are they? I'm curious about their discharge rate just realised they could put 3000 mah cells in the 3 ah battery to make it the same size as the 1.3 ah