Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by wingless

  1. Maybe part of the exterior of #9 broke off.


    Confirm by manually moving the blade up or down on the unplugged tool, then apply power / turn on, to see if it attempts motion until the broken tooth gap is again encountered.


    Or, disassemble the tool to see what is up.


    It looks like the end of the armature (103) has a gear that turns the spiral cog gear (9) having an eccentric that causes the blade to go up/down.





  2. My daughter and I have remodeled several homes together.


    Being thicker than mud I eventually realized I always grabbed her cordless tools instead of my nearby excellent old corded tools.


    Then I purchased a set of excellent set of DeWALT cordless tools. Being a single user, I can swap to a nearby battery and drop the existing flat one into the charger.


    My corded tools are used for mixing mortar and for demolition.


    (I also hate the necessary evile of purchasing printer ink...)

  3. It goes waaay beyond SAE and metric sockets.


    There is also Torx, triple square, Allen, combination wrenches, flare nut wrenches, Crow Foot wrenches, ignition wrenches, plus all the specialty sockets and wrenches, including security bits.


    Back in the 80s my Jeep color coded metric as blue.


    At least my BFH works for both SAE and metric.

    • Like 1
  4. The AC condensation pipe at my southern Florida AirBnB has always been problematic. The internal condensation water is supposed to drain to the exterior of the house, but stops draining properly, then that abatement of flow is detected by the float switch, interrupting the AC operation. The AC stops and the Next thermostat shows loss of power, because the float switch is wired to interrupt the 24VAC transformer power.


    This is a single story four bed / two bath beautiful home, with the AC air handler / evaporator in a hallway closet. The water condensation line is routed down through the slab floor, then 20' sideways to the compressor / condenser exterior concrete pad.


    The problem is that they then put a 90° UP bend on that buried 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe to pop up through the AC pad to then dribble onto the ground next to the pad.


    The open end of the interior pipe is higher than the exterior end so it sort of worked okay, until the buried pipe w/ "science experiment" stagnant water became funny and it stopped draining.


    My ongoing long-term "solution" had been to periodically use my wet / dry vac to suck out the disgusting stagnant water in the pipe to restore "normal" draining.


    The last few times I was unable to suck it clear. The final time I was unable to suck at all.


    Fortunately I had already been planning for a proper solution and had already purchased / received this Little Giant AC sump pump and this Rain Bird VB-STD large rectangular buried valve box.


    Note that the sump pump Owner's Manual states in the NOTICE section, "Pump is for indoor use only." My thought is the deep / walled / covered location is sufficiently dry, so I think I'm good even though this is an exterior installation.


    My plan was to dig next to the AC concrete pad, cut the drain pipe and route it to this buried sump pump, cover it all w/ the valve box and put a properly wired nearby exterior GFI receptacle for the power.


    Every bit of earth in southern Florida is a miss mash of crisscrossed roots, so I use my OMT to aid in that part of the digging effort by cutting the roots, some of them 3" diameter. So I dug down, then dug sideways under the pad until I reached the pipe. Then I kept digging down until I reached the 90° elbow. That was about 2' down. I then dug the pit where the pump is being placed to an appropriate depth. 


    The pit was being dug in a narrow alley, w/ no room for piling dirt. I used containers to hold the removed Earth There were three box shaped recycling totes that were filled, then a 50 gallon wheeled barrel was filled. (All the roots tossed to the side and discarded.) During replacement the 50 gallon was emptied back into the ground and part of one of the box totes was returned.


    The bend and the upward pipe was cut off. Instead of a rush of horrible water, the slow dribble of water continued. I attached the wet / dry vac, then eventually got massive glugs of that horrible water, until that pipe was empty. I ran a snake through that line and encountered nothing (at that point).


    The walls of the pit were lined w/ overlapped brick-shaped pavers to an appropriate height so the valve box top would be flush to the ground.


    The pipe was routed so it drains into the box. The 90° downward bend was not bonded onto the horizontal pipe in case future removal is ever required.


    All the Earth was replaced and packed in place using my mini Thor hammer.


    The new GFI receptacle was added to provide power.


    Future updates include using the existing pump over full switch w/ pigtail wires. That will be routed to a white 12V lamp and blinking amber lamp w/ audible alert. Those will be placed to be visible / heard on the entrance camera. My thought is the likely possible problem is the GFI faults, killing the pump power. This won't cause a problem for the AC, as the water will just dribble into that new gravel bottom pit, but will eventually cause a mess, in the pit, not in the house. A different AC power circuit will have a 120VAC to 12VDC power brick, so the white lamp will permit visualizing power of that circuit and the blinking / buzzing will permit remote detection of the problem, from my home computer.


    Another option for that existing over full switch is to interrupt the AC operation or to drive a relay. This chosen alert method is the best for this remote application. It permits AC operation and alerts me of the problem.


    That low voltage alert switch may be configured for Normally Open (NO), used for the alarm described above, or configured for Normally Closed (NC), to interrupt the 24VAC powering the thermostat to shut off the AC when the pump gets over full.






















  5. It looks like the slots have tapered sides.


    The mating detent probably also has tapered sides.


    Could careful application of a file on the appropriate side(s) of the slots (possibly also on the detent) cause the resting position to shift slightly, with the spring loaded detent sitting higher in the slots?

  6. 5 hours ago, Cartoondude135 said:

    Guys, I'm happy to inform you all that we're getting closer to cracking this mystery! Apparently, chainsaws can be equipped with a vast array of attachments! Including a cut-off saw!

    Yes, when they cut the bare concrete slab floors in several of my homes they used a chainsaw w/ a large water cooled cutoff wheel. (forget about seeing or breathing inside the house for an hour afterwards w/ the windows and doors open)

  7. Good that shocking the tool restored normal operation.


    On my old Milwaukee 0224-1 drill the gear case grease had gotten funny over the years, so I disassembled, cleaned and properly lubricated w/ the correct grease, as-shown in this topic.


    The previously linked parts manual shows the correct lubrication for that tool. If performed properly then there is only good that will result from that preventative maintenance. 

  8. A cordless electric snowblower will likely run out of "gas" w/ a normal sized property, decreasing the expected utility.


    A corded electric snowblower should have a heavy duty extension cord and properly wired 15A or preferably 20A GFCI receptacle. The operation will require attention to the cord to avoid injestion into the auger.


    Electric motors are great, w/ lots of torque.


    The intentionally elevated Biden / Harris / Obama fuel prices fold over into electricity (plus inflation on everything else) so I would expect operation costs to be a wash between the possible fuel sources. One thing I noticed is my new gasoline lawnmower gets MUCH better fuel economy than my recently retired 25 year old mower, so new versus old will have a fuel savings.


    Or just move here to southern Florida and retire the thoughts of blowing snow.

  9. 52 minutes ago, osoharpon said:

    I think such a door will wear out too quickly. I would put one somewhere where no more than ten people will use it. If you want to equip this room for customers, you need to think about another type of door that will not break or crack in 2 years, you know.

    Welcome to the forum.


    The OP made this door for his customer's cabin. It is not a commercial application.


    IMO the construction is beautiful and is infinitely superior and more durable than the pressed paper slurry hollow core doors that are being installed everywhere.


    During a recent remodel I needed to install some door slabs. Several were the molded six panel paper slurry doors. Because of the dimensions and required features several needed to be wooden doors. The difference was WOW amazing (at a higher cost).


    I would love to have doors made by the OP in my home!





    • Like 2
  • Create New...