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Posts posted by wingless

  1. Welcome to the forum.


    Could more specificity please be provided about the tool inquiry?


    Is the tool something like a Dremel, a drill, a router, a small angle grinder, or something else?


    If the objective is battery operation, then IMO, select a brand that will satisfy the objectives for the long term, to permit easy battery swaps across tools.

  2. YW. For sure it goes through gasoline. Well worth consuming extra fuel to get the job done. I ensure to have a full fuel jug prior to starting my pressure washer projects.


    IMO it is an incremental increase on the two Northern Tool pressure washers for the one w/ more power.


    The only issues I experienced are that the transportation wheel tack weld failed attaching the axle hub to the wheel, requiring replacement (I don't weld anymore) and the safety valve deteriorated requiring replacement. The safety valve was operator error. It is a one time valve that opens under temperature or pressure, so now I idle or turn off the engine during a long pause, instead of making bypass heat that cooks that valve.

  3. WRT to automotive transportation, placing the previously linked pressure washer in the SUV cargo area is a two person job. I can remove it myself.


    My 4,000 PSI / 3.5 GPM w/ the previously linked turbo nozzle removes everything from the surface w/ little effort.


    The washer is loud, so I point the exhaust in an acceptable direction. The audible noise is bad when standing near the exhaust and is no issue when working in the area.


    No idea on the Home Depot tool at half the cost w/ identical specs. IMO there is a reason for the significantly lower cost.

  4. Cool. Thanks for sharing.


    Click save and a side by each of new DCF850 to a DCF887. FWIW, here is my DCF887 topic.


    Eyeball measurement looks identical dimension from trigger face to rear surface.


    Everything else got smaller. The gear box behind the chuck is smaller and the motor is smaller.


    Interesting that there is now a couple degree head tilt, likely so the battery doesn't prevent the head from reaching the work surface.


    Nice job DeWALT!





    • Like 1
  5. Welcome to the forum.


    Interesting idea.


    A detriment to that plan is tools that would last longer than your lifetime will be abused by people renting and the life will be single digit or low two digit cycles.


    Also, quick / easy / inexpensive repairs will be part of the business plan.


    A broken dethatcher may cost more than $20 in parts to fix.


    Another option is to sell tools on Offer Up, eBay or Craig's List that are no longer required. Many of my tools arrive and leave from me using these sites.

  6. There has never been a drill press included in my personal arsenal. One of my current projects is to install and configure a 8’x12’ Lark end gable Accusteel Lumberjack box eave shed to be my workshop. The construction on this shed is amazing and is very secure. It will have no problem resisting the hurricane force winds that can hit southern Florida. It is secured into the Earth w/ auger screws and bolts.


    My workshop shed will be setup for my personal projects. To that end this used Porter Cable PCXB620DP 10 inch bench drill press was purchased used for the projects that will benefit from a drill press instead of a hand drill.


    This tool has lots of great features: 5” overhang (for drilling in the center of 10" diameter pieces) on ½” keyed chuck spindle; five belt/pulley-selected speeds, from 610 rpm to 2800 rpm; two AA battery powered LED work light; hand crank cast iron work table w/ ±45° tilt; 2” chuck travel w/ adjustable stop with spring return; integrated chuck key holder and 3.2A / 0.4hp 120VAC motor. The cast iron work table measures 6½" wide by 7½" deep and extends 8½" away from the upright column. The table may rotate 360° around the upright column.


    One thing I wanted to add is a small drill press vise w/ appropriate attachment bolts for safe / secure / appropriate work piece retention. The seller threw in a smooth jaw vise and I had a serrated jaw vise.


    I purchased a pair of ½-13 x 1-3/4" Grade 8 flange bolts and these waaay cool 4” forged iron lever wing nuts for retaining the vise to the table (too bad the entire batch of those lever nuts has sold out, but VERY glad I got a pair first). The forging tooling line on these lever nuts was filed away, the exterior surface sanded smooth and the exterior was painted w/ Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint. This setup permits quick / easy / secure vise placement.


    The drill press base has a pair of 3/8" diameter holes for bolting to the work surface. This permits secure operation, then storage until the next usage is required.


    All of these features make this tool ideally suited to my applications.

































  7. YW.


    No idea on other pressure washers.


    My speculation is they are now calling the identical machine as a 4,200 psi where my older machine was called a 4,000 psi, using the same engine and same pump. 


    Mine has an inline pressure gauge I added and it always showed over 4,000 psi.


    Yes, I only use turbo nozzle. Yes, I never use chemicals, just cold water. There are zero chemicals required that will remove something from a surface that won't come off w/ 4,000 (4,200) psi and a turbo nozzle.


    Note that a turbo nozzle is a pinpoint jet nozzle that rapidly spins on a small arc.


    It will blast anything / everything off the surface.

  8. Welcome to the forum.


    The 4,000 psi 3.5 gpm pressure washer w/ Honda engine and CAT pump I have used for well over a decade on home usage has been a problem free workhorse, with one exception. The wheels have hubs attached by welding to the face. That weld has broken twice, requiring wheel assembly replacement. Mine is a Northern Tool device. Mine is functionally similar to this device.


    IMO bleach is not required for pressure washing. Water at this pressure doesn't need bleach.


    If bleach is going to be used then a 2-3 gallon hand pump dispenser is a good option. This is likely for spot or area treatment and runoff will be very extremely localized, if at all.


    Note that the optional CAT turbo nozzle is the best / only attachment that I use. I have fingers remaining when I manually count the other nozzles that I have used.

  9. @DianaWelcome to the forum.


    It may be a while before the OP @JerryNYreturns to see the great questions that were posed about his 2016 topic, so I'll jump in...


    Like most projects, start w/ a vision and a budget, or at least a budget.


    Seat of the pants, for a total kitchen remodel, plan on something like $20K, it can be more or less depending on lots of factors. Usually the big hit are the cabinets. On my last total kitchen remodels I used Jarlin Cabinetry and their Dove White Shaker style. I love the quality and construction on these cabinets.


    My latest kitchen is shown in this reply. Not a professional, but I "swing the hammer" on our rental properties.


    Our daughter has the vision, I supply the grunt. She helps and is AMAZING with tiling, where I am her assistant.


    There are online planning tools. Home Depot can also be helpful. Start w/ the kitchen dimensions, especially including the plumbing supply and drain position, as plumbing relocation may be intimidating to many. Documenting the oven power / gas position and the under cabinet microwave position is also important to avoid having to possibly relocate.



    • Like 1
  10. Welcome to the forum.


    For sure, seek professional mental help if considering undertaking these projects.


    Just wrapping my latest total home remodel project, including demolition to remove existing kitchen, bath, wall to wall tile, disintegrated cast iron under slab, all new supplies, drains, upgraded wiring...


    The results are amazing!









    Fun Stuff:








  11. The recent home remodel project included a new kitchen. 


    The kitchen layout changed from an ell shape to a u-shape, but the room width was insufficient for the standard base cabinet 24" face to wall depth on one wall.


    The solution was to use standard 30" tall / 12" deep wall cabinets and construct a base box frame that elevates the top edge from 30" to the standard 34½" base cabinet height. This is the second time / second home, where I implemented this conversion.


    The box dimensions were set to replicate the standard 4½" tall / 3" deep toe kick across the front.


    The top and bottom surfaces of a wall cabinet have the perimeter box edge at the full height and the upper and lower panel inset down about 3/4"


    A 2x6 board was ripped to support that inset bottom panel and a rabbet was cut around the sides and rear perimeter to support the cabinet perimeter. Sets of perpendicular dado cuts were made to clear the central cabinet edges.


    The toe kick face was covered w/ a ¼" thick full height toe kick finish panel. The side was covered w/ baseboard, wrapped around the corner.


    There were several 15 ga finish nails added that attach this new box to the cabinet.













  12. One of the horizontal blinds in my rental property failed, with the center lift cord no longer internally attached and instead being loose.


    The result of this loose cord is that the blind would not remain in the up position, with only the two end cords, w/o this center lift cord.


    Fortunately the internal blind roller was discovered in the home, even though it was missing the axle.


    The blind was removed from the window, the loose cord properly threaded back into the correct position. The blind was replaced back onto the window for the remainder of the repair.


    The roller holder was pried out of the lower bar. The cord was threaded down through each of the slat slots, then down through the lower bar.


    An old failed drill bit was discovered to have the correct outside diameter to work as the roller axle. A 4½" small angle grinder w/ a cutter / grinder wheel was used to clean the end and to cut to length, so it would fit into the roller holder cavity.


    The holder was pushed back into the lower bar. The cord was routed around the roller w/ shaft and positioned back into place.


    Now the horizontal blind again works normally.












  13. Maybe it is an old school impact driver.


    Whacking the handle may cause a slight impact rotation force on the bit.


    Back in the dinosaur days I used such a tool w/ a standard ½" male square drive that fit into a socket bit.


    Very nice find.

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