wingless
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Posts posted by wingless
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As an example this 1972 Powermatic Catalog D shows your Model 160 planer on page 38.
As expected it appears very visually similar to the Model 180 18" planer on page 40.
Look through the site. It may provide leads that help.
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10 hours ago, Stephen88 said:
Could it be a non commercial model not for sale to the general public?
That is unlikely.
My initial pass through that site did not locate a complete match. That site has documents posted by people like me working to provide a useful perpetual repository for others.
It may be the desired document exists but has not be properly identified in the opening page.
It may be that the exact document has not been posted, but that a document for a similar model has been posted that will provide utility. As an example the document for the 18" planer may have utility for your 16" planer.
Good luck.
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Thanks, yes it looks like a very nice restoration.
Will be getting it next week.
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2 hours ago, Eric - TIA said:
That camera looks like ikt has a nice clear picture. Usually, it's graining but that is nice.
Yes, the cameras have great daytime images and acceptable B&W dark nighttime images, automatically illuminated by the integrated IR LEDs.
The kit includes two each of two camera styles.
The two right images are from the spherical body cameras, the left image is from the trunnion mount camera.
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The automotive auction sites send me daily alerts that I peruse to see whatever is interesting.
This restored 1968 Fiat 500L again showed up on the PCARMarket site and I decided to purchase that vehicle. It did not sell several months earlier on a prior auction.
The auction paperwork shows it registered in Italy from new through 2015.
A U-Haul flatbed trailer will be used to collect this vehicle and bring it home.
It has a great restoration, retaining some imperfections.
This has a two cylinder 500cc 21hp rear air cooled engine. It is under 10' long and about 4' wide. It is just over 1k pounds mass.
It should be fun.
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On 12/12/2023 at 9:11 AM, wingless said:
The Fluke TP82 Insulation Piercing Probe Set has a large finger adjustment screw that moves the internal stainless sharp needle probe. That needle probe is used to pierce the wire insulation, to permit electrical measurements by contacting the internal conductor w/o stripping the insulation. These each attach to the test leads w/ the standard 4mm safety shrouded banana jack. This looked like an interesting and potentially useful probe, except the Fluke version was pricy. A super inexpensive Chinese version w/ IDENTICAL appearance was purchased instead.
An installed (by me) wireless four camera w/ display system was my Christmas present to my daughter for her six horse trailer, w/ three cameras mounted on the trailer and one attached to the upper bed lip, below the window, looking at the hitch ball in the middle of the bed on her 2021 Ford F250 pickup truck.
These insulation piercing probes were SUPER HANDY to locate the 12VDC power on the trailer.
The trailer was factory wired to have switched internal lights that work when the truck engine is running. The cameras needed to receive power from the power side, not switch side of that internal lighting circuit.
The probe grabs onto the wire, then the large thumb screw is used to advance the internal needle probe through the insulation to touch the conductor. This permitted EASY determination of which white insulation wire should be used for tapping off camera power.
The trailer manufacturer did a really nice job concealing all the internal wiring from damage by the horses. Everything was hidden by riveted aluminum trim panels, so all those rivets were drilled out, panels removed, wiring exposed, new wiring added, concealed, panels replaced and new rivets securing panels.
Truck w/ Prior (Smaller) Trailer
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Welcome to the forum.
No luck finding an age on that tool.
The nameplate has a selective text box below 4000 RPM, but the numbers in that box don't look like a date code.
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That is too weird.
Why cut from the inside instead of from the outside?
Is this for an unusual situation where outside cutting isn't possible? If so, what is an example of that instance?
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The test leads included w/ this Fluke 87V MAX multimeter are the Fluke TL175 TwistGuard dual mode test leads. These test leads may be quickly and easily changed from CAT II to CAT III, w/ CAT II having the large exposed metal tip and the CAT III having the small metal exposed tip. The molded plastic lead body has embossed text w/ a window showing the category rating selected by the rotated exposed tip body. The included Fluke AC175 Detached Insulated Alligator Clips only work when the leads are set w/ the long exposed CAT II tips. (Note the Fluke LeadWrap shown in the images was not included and instead added by me.)
Note it was very disappointing that Fluke not only doesn't include a printed manual w/ the Fluke 87V MAX multimeter, requiring but not advising the consumer to locate and download the PDF manual from their website, but also to not include any information on these TL175 TwistGuard test leads. It was not immediately obvious to me that these included test leads change from CAT II to CAT II by twisting the barrel. I didn't realize that function until I located and read the documentation for this reply. Now I like these test leads much more than before.
TL175 Twist Guard Test Leads Instruction Sheet
TL175 Twist Guard Test Leads Technical DataFluke TL175 TwistGuard Dual Mode Test Leads
The Fluke LeadWrap is an excellent accessory for usage w/ their test leads. It has a small Velcro section to wrap around the meter end of a test lead pair. The leads are then folded several times and the remainder of the Velcro wraps around the lead bundle. They are sold as a three pack.
Fluke LeadWrap
Most of my multimeter measurements are made using a Fluke TL224 SureGrip Insulated Test Lead Set. These have the standard shrouded 4mm banana safety plugs at each end, one end at right angle for insertion into the multimeter, the other end straight for usage w/ the appropriate / selected test probe. I now have all flavors of detachable test probes, now added this Maxigrabber 73103 huge hook, to the other available options of: straight metal probes; detachable alligator clips; alligator probes; long / flexible pincer probes and slender hook probes. I envision this to be SUPER handy, especially in automotive applications, to grab onto chassis ground, such as a body bolt.
Fluke Maxigrabber 73103 Hook Probe
The Fluke TP82 Insulation Piercing Probe Set has a large finger adjustment screw that moves the internal stainless sharp needle probe. That needle probe is used to pierce the wire insulation, to permit electrical measurements by contacting the internal conductor w/o stripping the insulation. These each attach to the test leads w/ the standard 4mm safety shrouded banana jack. This looked like an interesting and potentially useful probe, except the Fluke version was pricy. A super inexpensive Chinese version w/ IDENTICAL appearance was purchased instead.
Many electrical operations require usage of temporary jumper leads. My go-to since the dinosaur days has been the Pomona Electronics Minigrabber Test Clip Patch Cord. Those work great when grabbing onto something like a through hole axial resistor lead, but not terrific in many other applications. This inexpensive shrouded alligator patch cord set was purchased for additional flexibility.
The Pomona 6041B Extra Large Alligator Clip Set and the Pomona 5914 Industrial Alligator Clip Set are now part of my lead set. These are large and larger red or black insulated alligator clips each attaching to the test leads w/ the standard 4mm safety shrouded banana jack. The 6041B clips are rated for 20A and the 5914 are rated for 10A, on the linked specification sheet, even though the molded embossed text on the parts is 20A.
Pomona 6041B Extra Large Alligator Clip Set
Pomona 5914 Industrial Alligator Clip Set
The Lisle 65150 Flexible Back Probes have long skinny exposed metal probe points, w/ small diameter and bendable plastic body, each attaching to the test leads w/ the standard 4mm safety shrouded banana jack. Note these are similar but significantly less expensive than the Fluke TAS90 Test Probe Accessory Set.
Lisle 65150 Flexible Back Probes
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Welcome to the forum.
This 113.298240 10" Table Saw Owner's Manual listing says it is from 1983.
My examination of old Craftsman tool catalogs didn't reveal that part number, but the '82/'83 catalog has numbers that are close.
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Welcome to the forum.
Sorry, unable to locate documentation for your model that I could use to help.
Why not post images showing the issue?
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My NorthStar M1578111D 4,000 psi 5 gpm pressure washer was purchased new 17 years ago from Northern Tool and has been a virtually flawless performer over those many years.
This is an excellent machine, w/ a Honda GX380 13.0 hp engine and a Cat Pumps 66DX35G1I direct drive three plunger pump. This particular model has been discontinued, but the most similar model is this NorthStar 157127 pressure washer, having similar components and specifications.
The pressure washer is always used w/ this Cat Pumps 7632 rotating turbo nozzle. It is waaay better than those fixed angle fan nozzles. This has a 0° nozzle that spins at very high speed on a 20° arc, blasting away anything / everything on the surface. It removes dirt / weeds / paint like nothing else.
Mine also has this 5,000 psi output pressure gauge.
This tool has been properly maintained w/ regular engine and pump oil changes, air filter changes and wheel hub greasing.
The only real equipment problem over the years had been having to swap both wheels twice because the poorly welded hubs detached from the wheels. The last replacement was using Amazon parts instead of NorthStar parts and the hub welds now appears sufficient to last the duration.
Imagine my surprise when I went to use my pressure washer recently and the engine acted like the gasoline flow rate was insufficient. It would require a short operational pause, resume normal operation, then stumble like it again didn't have enough gasoline.
The carburetor bowl and body were already clean and there was zero difference when they were cleaned again.
The fuel hose was removed from the carb and gasoline barely came out as a dribble. Blowing air backwards into the gas tank had zero effect on restoring normal flow.
The fuel tank was removed, drained and the tank output fitting was unscrewed, removed, revealing the problem. That output fitting has a long / skinny / four segment screen and that screen was filled w/ crud.
The screen was cleaned w/ a toothbrush and WD-40, restoring a new appearance.
The fitting and fuel tank were replaced.
Now the pressure washer again operates normally.
My prior property had a backyard swimming pool and the pathway had uneven pavers. Rolling the pressure washer back and forth into that backyard over many years resulted in the frame handle tubes cracking. I decided to replace that frame base at this time, prior to the handles breaking off.
My engine lift and a strap were used to raise / lower the moderately heavy engine / pump assembly to aid the process.
Now the entire assembly looks and performs like new again.
Dirty / Clean Tank Fuel Fitting Screen
Cracked / Split Frame Handle Tubes
Old and New Frames
Lifting Engine / Pump from Frame
Pressure Washer Reassembled and Again Ready for Usage
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Welcome to the forum.
It appears to be "simple" after removing blade, when examining the exploded parts diagram.
Don't the three #63 screws retain that part?
Why not share some images?
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Welcome to the forum.
What part(s) are being sought for your 536292500 Craftsman Cultivator? Here is the manual.
Any pictures?
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51 minutes ago, sawihel said:
Hi, Yesterday we had a flash flood in the factory caused by a sudden downpour and defective drainage by the valley guttering, as this was near to electrical equipment and there was a signifigant amount of water on the floor and adjoining wall I instructed the operators to vacate the vacinity until it was deemed safe for the clean up to begin. This has been reported internaly and an action plan to remedy the situation is being put together. In the mean time I am wondering what duty, if any, can be placed on the landlord to rectify this issue. Is the following section of HASWA relevant: Section 4 Anyone who has, to any extent, control of premises (mainly landlords having control of common areas) must ensure that they are safe, are provided with safe access and egress and that plant or substances provided for use and that any plant or substances provided for use within the premises are safe and without risks to health so far is reasonably practicable Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Your actions were 100% correct!
It is SO EASY to be electrocuted in fresh water. Evacuation of the area until the "tide recedes" or until the power may be safely (and certainly) de-energized is THE ONLY way to ensure that injury or death won't ensue.
Agree that the landlord MUST correct the roofing defects, but have zero idea on the legal aspects to attain that result.
Usually obtaining a contractor quotation for work is free and w/o obligation. Perhaps a good first step would be to get several repair quotations from local roofers to repair the defect(s) that caused the flooding and use that information as a starting point w/ the landlord.
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On 4/21/2023 at 12:26 PM, wingless said:
The tools I purchased were four of these VKRP Enterpises ratcheting jack stands, plus four of these Rennstand 18M-P13 jack pad adapters. These 18M-P13 jack pad adapters fit into the exposed plastic rocker panel jack points. The vehicle also has nearby welded steel "frame" support points, hidden behind small removable covers. If I were instead to go w/ that support point, then these Rennstand 18M-P08 jack pad adapters would instead be used.
Unfortunately the VKRP Enterprises ratcheting jack stands have been discontinued. They work well and have a reasonable cost.
Daytona 2 Ton Low Profile Jack, VKRP Enterprises Jack Stands w/ Jack Pads
Lifting w/ Daytona Jack and VKRP Enterprises Jack Stand
Jack Stands Supporting Vehicle
VKRP Industries and Rennstand Jack Pads
Note that the VKRP Enterprises 3 Ton Jack Stands are FINALLY back in stock and available to order.
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Several updates on this Fluke ScopeMeter 105B instrument...
The used instrument was received w/ the optically isolated serial communication cable, but not the SW90W FlukeView ScopeMeter software. It was not possible to locate that software anywhere, so I called Fluke. They sent it to me by E-Mail for free, yea!
The 1999 software would not install onto my Windows 7 computer, but installed fine onto my older Windows XP computer.
My next discovery was that NONE of my computers have a serial interface, so I purchased an inexpensive USB to serial cable. That adapter cable REQUIRES usage of the included CD for proper installation.
The FlukeView software works fine w/ the serial interface, for control and for data / image transfer. Even at the maximum 19.2K bit rate it is waaay slow by today's standards, but is functional. It is an acceptable way to get hand held oscilloscope images into the computer for additional usage.
The USB to serial cable fits nicely into the existing Fluke zipper cable storage pouch used by the optically isolated serial cable and the two serial cable adapters.
A really nice used Fluke 80i-110s AC/DC clamp on current probe was purchased. This is a VERY handy instrument. It is powered by a standard 9V 6LR61 battery. The current probe has a dedicated storage space in the existing case lid. The current probe manual also has a dedicated storage space in the existing case under the hand held oscilloscope.
One FlukeView waveform image (top right) shows voltage, current and one of the built-in math functions, of Channel A times Channel B, for in this case, power. There are many other math functions available.
There are also calculation and cursor functions, as would be expected in modern digital oscilloscopes.
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My old Performance Trailer small boat dinghy trailer was purchased in poor condition and only used for slow speed around town projects. This is a small boat trailer, but I've set the carpeted wooden bunks flat so I can safely carry full sheets of plywood home using ratchet straps. I can also carry big stuff like furniture. Who needs a pickup truck?
The hubs / wheel bearings were not great. The tire rubber was old w/ age cracks.
It was recently decided to upgrade this to permit normal / safe operation at highway speeds and to not worry about this failing during usage.
Years ago I removed the welded 1-7/8" coupler, changing it to a bolted Curt 25470 2" coupler. I really like the simplicity of this new coupler. It does not have the rotating, latching lever to grab the ball and instead has a special size clevis pin that grabs the ball when inserted, retained by a clevis pin clip. The old coupler welds were ground off, the trailer metal cleaned up, then matching full diameter holes drilled for hardened new coupler attachment bolts / hardware.
It has always been impossible to remove the wheels, as the hub studs would rotate instead of the lug nuts loosening, even w/ thread lube applied.
The wheels / tires were replaced w/ new assemblies. The hubs were replaced w/ new assemblies. The included hub caps were not used, instead the Bearing Buddy pressurized caps were used. The wheel bearings / hubs were greased w/ AtomLube Ultra Heavy Duty Waterproof Red Grease.
The new wheel / tire assemblies are very nice. The steel wheels have a decent galvanize coating. The tires are spec'd for 90 psi.
The new hub assemblies are provided w/ two sizes of bearings and seals, to permit usage in both configurations / applications. I was unable to get a lug nut torque wrench setting where it would click, so I just hand tightened the lug nuts by feel. For some reason the hub set set included four end caps and eight pop on/off seals, not just the required two each. I didn't use any of those hub caps because I instead used the Bearing Buddy.
The Bearing Buddy end caps were installed onto these new hubs. These are great devices, w/ an internal spring loaded disc to pressurize the hub grease. During installation I first hand packed the new wheel bearings, then mostly filled the void between the spindle and hub, prior to adding the second bearing and Bearing Buddy. It was "easy" enough to carefully add the correct amount of grease. I would spin the hub while adding grease to help prevent blowing out the rear seal. There were not any issues.
A nice dual wheel tongue jack was added. I didn't want difficulty when rolling over uneven ground and was tired of lifting the tongue by hand while moving. It was bolted on at the minimum tongue height configuration and JUST works on my Macan SUV.
The trailer already had decent lights, but I rewired it so it would always function properly.
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Any update?
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Long, long ago I sold my analog oscilloscope. Long ago I sold my digital oscilloscope.
There is a planned upcoming project, for which I again need an oscilloscope. This project requires battery portability.
My selection for this instrument was a used Fluke ScopeMeter. I selected this Fluke 105B 100MHz ScopeMeter Series II, purchased used off eBay. This was manufactured in 1997 and is in VERY lightly used condition. It even still has the clear screen protection film in place. It appears only the AC/DC charger and the red 'scope probe have been used at all. The seller stated the NiCad battery pack has recently been replaced.
This is a full featured combination 100MHz two channel 5GS digital oscilloscope and true RMS digital mulitmeter. When operated as a multimeter, it permits concurrent display of a single oscilloscope channel.
The operational power is either the ~4 hour internal NiCad batteries, the external AC/DC power brick adapter or four alkaline C cell batteries in place of the NiCad batteries. Mine does not include the no longer available optional Fluke PM9087 12V automotive adapter cord.
The tool holster wraps the instrument, providing shock protection and a nice multipurpose stand. The probe connections are recessed for protection. The stand may either be tall, short, or grab onto a vertical panel, like the top of a standard door.
The instrument includes an optically isolated RS-232 cable w/ adapters. So far I've been unable to get the correct FlukeView software, permitting screeen dump and remote control. The cable permits direct printer output w/o having the software.
The operational control was not immediately obvious / intuitive to me, being a looong time Tektronix oscilloscope user, so I reluctantly had to crack open the User's Manual. Now everything makes sense. One feature that surprised me on the utility was the dedicated Information button, showing multiple screens for the currently selected function.
Here is the User Manual.
The instrument has a large / clear / readable display, w/ standard software contrast control and selectable backlighting.
The complete probe kits include everything required for normal usage, including grabber or pointy tips and multiple options for grounding. Each group of probe parts includes a nice / appropriate storage bag.
There is a very nice / sturdy hinged plastic case w/ pockets and elastic retainers for all the accessories and nice metal closure latches. There is even a (currently unused) spot for a current probe.
All in all this looks to be an excellent choice for my current and future measurement requirements.
Oscilloscope Mode
Meter Mode
Long Stand
Short Stand
Probes, Leads and Accessories
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Sounds like a part like this one.
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What about using hand-held loose sandpaper?
Unknown planer
in Introduce yourself
Posted
What is the safety concern w/ this machine?