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ToolBane

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Everything posted by ToolBane

  1. ToolBane

    DTW300

    I might keep an eye out for the 285 on sale. I don’t have a strong need for this one but the upcoming mid-torque model has my eye a little more.
  2. ToolBane

    saw blade

    Depends on what you’re doing. Different blades for different materials, quality of cut you are looking for, and direction relative to grain (of wood)
  3. Routers will generally consume more energy than most basic drilling but by how much depends on what you are doing and how you go about it. According to testing conducted by Concord Carpenter (about 15 minutes into the linked video) the Dewalt is actually the most energy efficient of all cordless routers available today. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MFHh3bFoUiA&list=PLJXNPaYdstadlc2Mx-T2U77TmhkcTO3gz&index=37 But what Ah battery you use as well as how sharp and clean your bits are and how hard you force your tool will all play a role in how long your batteries last. I have the Makita router so this is a bit apples to oranges, but relative to my experiences with my own router, what you are describing suggests something is off. One thing I would suggest is to avoid slim-line batteries (think small ones that make only 2Ah or so) for most routing. They will be more likely to balk at larger cutting loads which could very well apply in a flush trim. Also make sure your bits are clean and sharp, and DON’T force the tool very hard. This is additionally important from a safety standpoint with these being trim routers using 1/4” bits that are more vulnerable to cracking during hard operation. And the longer the bit extends out the more angular stress it is going to be subjected to. Flush trim bits can extend out quite a bit. Absolutely do NOT try to force trim routers the same way you may be accustomed to with full-size 1/2” collet corded routers.
  4. If it’s really happening in seconds whatever is wrong is probably dangerous; don’t put anymore batteries on it and either replace it or send it in for repairs.
  5. Entirely correct that these are basically just 36V nominal tools marketed as 40V Max to keep them fully differentiated from the older 36V models. I have seen it stated in a couple places that indeed there will be an adapter to let you use a pair of LXT batteries on XGT tools, effectively making them work the same as LXT X2. I don’t know how ahead they planned on that to ensure that said adapter will fit ALL XGT tools, however. For the most part it appears Makita wants this to look like a serious upgrade having made improvements over almost all the tools as opposed to merely recycling X2 gear. Per Tools And Stuff’s videos above, it does seem some tools are a more substantial upgrade vs their LXT counterparts than others. I still have a hard time not perceiving XGT as a largely redundant platform. I feel Makita mostly made them to appease the percentage of contractors who are inflexible to the idea of using two batteries they already have on a tool and would rather buy additional larger batteries just to use one at a time. However there are a handful of tools where a single larger battery CAN make ergonomic sense. A more powerful, 1/2” router for example, as well as larger grinders. Personally I don’t need any currently available XGT tools enough to want to buy any of them yet, but if I change my mind I suspect I will be more than happy just using LXT batteries with the adapter.
  6. Eh...don’t feel bad. I’ve done the same thing as a mainly-Makita guy. Although there ARE a few tools I think Makita would do well to get serious about introducing, I can’t knock them for not bothering with a glue gun or a mattress inflator. Now that I’m on the Ryobi platform I’m not bothered having the option to go with them for tools I know won’t be used regularly. As a guy that wants to see a good provider of quality tools continue to be successful, sure I’d rather have a Makita option a decent amount of the time. But that’s their choice not to provide it. I hope they don’t bite themselves in the butt too hard purely on account of their own obstinance.
  7. ToolBane

    Wayniac69

    I’m surprised to see a dust collector attachment even has the ability to contact the blade at all...quite strange. But congratulations on getting the thing working. It’s a very nice piece of gear in my opinion.
  8. ToolBane

    Wayniac69

    There is nothing complicated or magical about using this saw, I have the 12” cordless and it’s as simple to turn on as you expect any miter saw to be. You either have gotten a dud or something didn’t go right with your blade change...but the blade change is also pretty simple so I think that unlikely as well. Just tell them you want a replacement.
  9. Talk about exactly the tool I never knew I needed
  10. I have no direct experience with this particular tool but 40C (104F) isn’t a temperature to be worried about on its own
  11. I’m beginning to contemplate getting a chainsaw, which is something prior to a week ago I never thought I would be interested in. These newest brushless Makitas are looking pretty impressive at demos. Took me by surprise as it wasn’t something I’d have expected would be a forte for them.
  12. Another very thorough review from Concord Carpenter. The inclusion of Mafell and Festool made for some stiff high-end competition. Also seeing Bosch having a product included was nice to see, although this model is not yet available in the US where this comparison was conducted. Suggests Bosch will be bringing this product stateside before long, however.
  13. Marketing-wise Ryobi appears to have been green-lighted to continue a trend I’ve been perceiving of “punching up” at the prosumer companies with a number of new brushless and compact tools. Appearing to largely be rebadged albeit likely slightly down-tuned versions of assorted recently-released Ridgid and Milwaukee tools. Although there’s some novelty going on as well, as the right-angle drill is now the industry leader in terms of fitting into tight spaces. Interesting to see how these tools will be received in the market. I expect them to be a boon for Ryobi but is more poaching into Ridgid territory.
  14. The “Better Safe Than Sorry” axiom maintains that you shouldn’t do it unless you can establish everything is safe. I had a bunch of technical reasons typed out as to why I think it would be fun to experiment with myself having a decent bit of physics and electrical background while NOT recommending that most people should try themselves. But after all that I realized the quick and easy answer is you’ve really never had a better excuse to switch over to cordless tools than now.
  15. Actually now that you mention it, this handle strikes me as looking a lot like the diagrams for the OMT patents we’ve seen floating around. Sorta supporting the assumption the new one will be brushless, and that it might be close to release.
  16. Sorry I realize I probably over-explained a lot you already knew just going into why I’m actually really excited about a tool I have no plans to buy
  17. I think your wish is likely to be granted...it just might take a while. A lot of things here look promising to me. The brushed version of this tool shares the same handle and battery interface with a LOT of Makita tools. Only the part of the tool that does the actual work changes. That’s great for design efficiency because they can make a lot of different tools recycling major parts of the design. With this cutout tool, the actual part that does the cutting looks to be entirely unchanged. It’s very possible Makita will decide that for a number of these there’s not much need for significant redesigns...just replace the brushed chassis with a brushless motor and that’s all you need. I would think the same for a lot of these tools...they don’t need much in the way of huge design overalls just lose the antiquated brushed motors. Since they’re practically modular in design, Makita can just upgrade a huge swath of their tools to brushless all at once with very little development time. I’m not likely to spend the money to upgrade to this particular tool I just don’t use it often enough and when I do the run time isn’t a bother to me. However the biscuit cutter is another tool using that same old handle and that frankly has lousy run times on the old brushed motor. If they’re doing this the way I think they are and the biscuit cutter is among the tools they are upgrading I’m going to be stoked.
  18. Well at the end of the day you’re only talking about $20-30 for a very infrequently used tool...it’s not a lot of money you’re throwing at something, and like anything else you just go in knowing that you get what you pay for. To be straight about it this is almost certainly going to be verging on throwaway quality, but hey maybe you’ll be asking so little out of it that it ends up being more than you need, with almost no money lost. Nothing wrong with that. That’s probably most of their buyers and they seem to review it positively over the one year that it’s been available. Which for all I know is as long as the company has existed. I’m not much a fan of buying these “here today, gone tomorrow” brands even if only out of principle though. Dewalt is a spendy alternative but there are other established options at more intermediate prices and a small price premium can still get you into brands that are still very affordable but have been around for years with very good track records who won’t be going out the door any time soon. Dremel, for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNXM8WC/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07DNXM8WC&pd_rd_w=mpyA7&pf_rd_p=8d3ccc9b-7c46-4140-a2c8-84db90b0a2f6&pd_rd_wg=G2lyk&pf_rd_r=M7MMD99SWEFWC4Y01PEP&pd_rd_r=1556ebfe-2117-4027-ac4c-a4c23051c69a&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQlU4Uk9TMFBQR0U1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODkwODQwM1BSTFpYR1I0M1ZXSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTYwNzU5M1ZESlM1WDJZUjdYNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Yeesh, what a needlessly long link. But Dremel’s been around for decades. It will be built more solidly and should be less likely to have reliability issues. I would see that as an option that makes sense if you want more long-term peace of mind for an established brand at a small price premium. Another popular one could be Ryobi: https://www.homedepot.com/s/ryobi screwdriver?searchtype=text&NCNI-5 Another brand that’s been around for decades. Tool snobs will still talk down on them but for DIY utility they’re fine. They’re readily available and aren’t the kind of company that may up and vanish two months after you buy it.
  19. I think you’re boned. Closest choice is the Makita rear handle since your on the platform. The only 7.25” blade-left option I can think of that isn’t rear handle is the Ryobi...and I’m hard-pressed to imagine that one could have more power than your brushless Makita. On the other hand, Ryobi has 9Ah batteries while Makita doesn’t, so it’s conceivable...but I’d be surprised.
  20. How long and how often do you expect to use it? Will it be for home or frequently used in public places?
  21. I’ve never bought a Dewalt table saw so can’t speak to that exact scenario. I’ve had a couple of their miters though and while I had my complaints about them admittedly the blades they came with didn’t do too bad as general purpose blades...but it’s worth mentioning that being general purpose blades is part of the equation. Although I often change over to Diablo or other “non-stock” blades before too long, I actually do think the “Big 4” Prosumer companies (Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee) all provide reasonably decent factory blades for initial “general purpose“ use (basic, all-purpose wood cutting). They do okay for general wood-working right out of the box. They are NOT going to be particularly specialized for either ripping or cross-cuts...just somewhere in between. They won’t be terribly good for fine-finish work nor are they going to be great for different materials like plastics or metals (unless it’s a tool specifically made for such). So if that’s what you are mostly doing, you will want to look for blades that are optimized for such. However as you go down in price from those companies the quality progressively suffers. Blades from “DIY” manufacturers such as Ryobi are widely considered quite marginal. Tool makers have to save money on production costs somewhere, and as you go further and further trying to meet price points most manufacturers opt to skimp out on peripherals people will eventually replace with something better anyway and suddenly feel like they have a better tool than they previously realized.
  22. Oh and finally...I think... That impact driver is almost certainly powerful enough to change the tires on your sedan, can’t be as certain on the Tacoma. On paper Tacoma wheel lugs don’t get torqued any tighter than a passenger car but many models of trucks get torqued tighter and not everyone looks up or follows specs all that closely. If changing tires is something you expect will be a frequent thing for you, yes you should look into getting an impact wrench making 200+ ftlbs. If you think more involved work on your vehicles is in your future, you may want to even consider Makita’s 1000ftlb+ impact wrench, or wait for their upcoming 500ftlb “mid-torque” model due probably later this year.
  23. Also with respect to 2 and 3... I myself don’t tend to be at all worried about a small scratch out of the box if there are no other indications the tool has been (ab)used at all. Although I wouldn’t waste much time checking that it works normally is all, just to make sure it isn’t a returned purchase that was defective or screwed up by a previous buyer, shipping, etc. Impact wrenches outputting much more torque than impact drivers are a bad idea to connect 1/4” hex adapters to...they’re just going to weigh more, break bits, and can often be less efficient for driving small screws anyway as they generally spin slower. Just get the tool most appropriate for the job while you’re learning. You can “break rules” with tools after you have spent the time to develop a good handle on how they work. A lot of time.
  24. For jobs it’s sensible to charge batteries at the end of the day so people aren’t sitting around with nothing to do while batteries are getting charged in the morning. But that’s entirely a matter of work pragmatics, technically the best practice for lithium batteries is to use them as soon as they’re charged. The “least-happy” states for lithium batteries are at the extreme ends of being charged or discharged so from a longevity/reliability standpoint it’s better to avoid leaving them fully charged very long. Personally I don’t feel leaving them charged overnight is terribly harmful, but I definitely avoid leaving them that way for weeks or months. Optimal storage is generally considered roughly half-charged if you expect to leave your batteries alone for those lengths of time. Point is there’s no performance benefit to leaving a charged battery alone 12 hours before use.
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