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Everything posted by Mycrossover

  1. There is no simple answer. HF uses a lot of methods to keep prices down. They frequently change suppliers for the "same" item. That is why there are often several part numbers listed, with separate reviews. There may be a big difference in quality.In some cases it is not even close. They sell two entirely differen compressors as the 5hp, 60 gal. One is a 2 cyl, 2 stage and one is a 3 cyl single stage, which they have mislabeled for years as a 2 stage. Quality control is non existent. If it is no good they exchange or refund for 90 days. That is cheaper for them than paying for better QC.. Replacement parts are almost non existant. I shop there for certain things but you have to do your homework and be prepared to take it back.They are carrying better stuff but the cost spread is also smaller when you factor in product support. I have the earlier 44" tool cabinet set and an early 1/2" Earthquake impact wrench that have been good for years. Other stuff has been returned for a refund or replacement. Much truck stuff is way overpriced.so it is possible to compete on some things but that doesn't work across the board. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  2. Mycrossover

    Dewalt parts.

    Check "E replacement parts". A number of companies seem to have turned their replacement parts business over to them. I don't know if it is "official" but it seems that way. Put in the make and model number and you will get a diagram. Find the part you are looking for and see what the key number is for that part (like #38). Go to the parts list and see if it is available. DeWalt has manuals online. They usually have a parts diagram and parts list. Equipped with a part number you can google the part. It may come up on ebay or elsewhere. Good luck.I really don't know if DeWalt still has any parts and service centers. Just hope the part is still available. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  3. You are talking about two different problems. Old NiCds form needle like deposits called dendrites that short out cells in the pack. Applying a higher voltage source,like a car battery, monentarilly, across the cell, will blow the dendrite apart, like a fuse. I have done it with mixed results. Lithium cells go bad if the voltage is allowed to drop too low. They just won't take a charge. There are ways to sometimes coax them back up. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  4. E replacement parts has a Youtube video on spocket replacement. There are three sprockets and one has a bigger shoulder. It is a close up, detailed video and you can clearly see which way the parts go. Just google: DeWalt 735 sprocket replacement. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  5. Mycrossover


    From what I see it was a variable speed die grinder. Not known for accuracy, Amazon lists the GD 0800 as a replacement. It is variable speed.I have an old Makita GEO600, that I have used with a router speed control to slow it down. The heavy duty speed control from MLCS is a good one. Pass on the cheaper one. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  6. I pulled up the parts breakdown on e replacements and it looks like the trigger feeds some some kind of range limiting board with a knob adjustment. Power directly to the motor should run it BUT your trigger is a speed control, not an on-off switch. That still leaves you without a power switch to run it at full power. I am sure you want some safe, convenient way to start and stop it. It could be the board but that is a hit or miss way to fix something. It is hard to troubleshoot on line so I hesitate to tell you what to do. A multimeter is the normal way to see where you lost power. Eyeballing will not always find the problem. If you are not comfortable measuring AC, stay out if there. One thing you might try us exercising the knob on the speed board. They can get flakey. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  7. I have had the corded Makita for years. DeWalt made one too, but they are not as compact as yours. The Milwaukee looks like a knockoff ot the Sioux that is/was available corded or air powered. They are top quality but not cheap.I see they have a battery one now but it is just a stubby and not that small. I see there is a generic Chinese copy of the corded Sioux/Milwaukee on ebay for under 50 bucks.Not a reccomendation. Have you checked the brushes on your Milwaukee? They may have just worn down. Speed control triggers are not that big a deal to replace. A bigger trigger handle is no proof of better durability. The big handle still operates the same little electronics inside. Sioux is a SnapOn company. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  8. What IS a JS265. That number brought up no power tool. In broad terms, the answer to your question is: probably. More info please. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  9. Not at all. Look at Cutech. They just sell portable planers and jointers. Almost all imports come from the same plant.That plant made the Steel city and the older, better Ridgid. There are basically 3 tiers of quality. Cutech imports them all and supplies parts for other brands that came from the same place. Their top model is in the $600- $700 range. You can get it with steel or carbide cutters on a spiral drum. You can get a lesser model with a spiral multi bit head, as well. The reviews are good and I think they are in Amazon as well as direct.. Why buy something to convert for the same money as one that has it all? I forget if the plant is in China or Taiwan. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  10. I just ran into that. The freezer in my fridge has an led light fixture that they want $60 for. The actual led is worth less than a buck from Mouser. The pc board is the heat sink. There is no solder showing on the sides of the led. I was not sure if I should heat the pc board from the back or hit the led with my heat gun after putting dabs of solder on the pads. It is a 3030 led (3mm square). The old one became intermittent from a bad solder joint and I let out the magic smoke testing it. My bad. At this low price I can screw a couple up. Man, I miss through hole and .1 mm spacing. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  11. What you say is true. Would you say that the cost of converting a new 735x would be better spent on buying a helical head planer in the first place? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  12. There needs to be an AA like group for tool fans. "Hi. My name is xxxx. I obcess about buying brand x tools. I get visibly upset if somebody says something good about another brand." It is Ford vs Chevy all over again. People constantly put them selves in groups to fight over something. It can be consequential like religion or ethnicity or red vs yellow. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  13. My neighbor is an HVAC contractor on new construction. He was working on unit in his back yard with a Ryobi drill/screw gun. I said nothing but it struck me as strange that a "pro" was using home owner grade tool. I guess it is time to be less judgemental over people's choice of tool brands. You use what works for you and stop worrying about what others think. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  14. I guess "grade" is in the eye of the beholder but I always thought Bosch was contractor stuff, if not as popular as Milwaukee and DeWalt. All their advertising seems to be aimed at the industrial user. It is priced high end. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  15. You might be on to something. That one brush looks pretty nasty. You have a side view of the other brush. Is the surface just as bad? If not, you may have a brush holder problem, where that nasty looking brush is not making good contact with the armature. Examine the commutator (where the brushes touch) and see if it is burned up. Hopefully it is not a shorted armature. I have had to replace a brush holder on vacuum for a similar problem. The overall wear on those brushes is not excessive so the cause of the oroblem is not normal brush wear. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  16. I totally doubt your numbers. There is no way the tool would not cost several times the going price. Add shipping cost in for good measure. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  17. After owning a sailboat that lived in salt water I can tell you that stainless fasteners in aluminum are as good as welded. Go get the drill. As to other situations, Alden Grabit extractors work very well. They even drill their own starter hole, that only needs to be a dimple. For me, they worked much better than the more common style extractors that need a much deeper hole. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  18. I found the complete parts diagram at Jack's Small Engines but you are not going to like what I found. The gear assembly is serviced as a unit It is $36 and change plus shipping. Since Makita never sold the individual gears and other small parts, you will never find a diagram. That is a 12 volt NiCd drill with a 1300mah battery. It must be ancient. You can get a far better Lithium drill for what it will cost to fix that one. You probably need a battery, anyway. Just for experience, I would try and put the gear aasembly back together and see if it looks like a washer is missing. If so, you should be able to find something that fits. Time to look at new drills. There plenty of moderate price drills from Makita , DeWalt and others that will be far stronger than yours and run longer and hold a charge for much longer. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  19. I vote for the impact wrench. It has never failed for me. I usually start with the hammer and allen key because it is quick and easy but if it it does not come loose in a couple of whacks I am on to plan B. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  20. There is another thread covering this in detail. If I have the right Milwaukee, the thread was not the usual 1/2-20 but Rhom brought out a keyless chuck in the correct thread. You have to first find out what you have. The other thread should clear that up. No pun intended.Then go chuck shopping. If it is 1/2-20 you have more options in keyed and keyless. Rhom is still excellent. Jacobs is owned by Apex and now made in China. There are still some USA's floating around on ebay. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  21. Per NEC, a 20 amp circuit (20A breaker and #12) may have 15A or 20A receptacles. I see no advantage to installing receptacles to accept plugs that barely exist. The miter saw has a 15A plug. I have come across 20A plugs exactly once, in a commercial setting on semi stationary equipment. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  22. I just googled it and the first Youtube video for the 1150A shows the table being adjusted with an adjustable wrench. To have a crank you have to have a gear rack on the post and a pinion gear on the table. The 1150 appears to have neither. The table is adjusted with a simple pinch bolt. I checked another 1150 video and it appears to be the same thing. If you have something different post pictures. If you have the gearing it should be pretty obvious what type of coupling would be needed to engage the pinion gear. There are all sorts of cranks and handles at MSC. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  23. From the link picture it looks like a pretty common keyless chuck. I/2" chucks typically have a 1/2-20 thread but there are quite few exceptions. Take the old one off and see what thread it has. A good Brand of replacement chuck is Rohm but they can be expensive. There is new keyless Makita on ebay right now for around $33 with the shipping. If you want to go cheap and it is 1/2-20 thread for with a keyed chuck. You can probably find a decent one for around 10 bucks. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  24. 1/4 to 1/8 collet reducers are common. Try MLCS. They ship free with no minimum. The problen is the Dremel flex shaft does not chuck in the 1/8 collet, like a bit. On the Dremel, you must remove the collet and collet nut and the plastic nose piece which has a very seldom seen 3/4-12( other than rotary tools) thread. Then an adapter nut screws on the collet thread. It has a,square hole in the end to accept the flex cable. The flex cable goes into the hole and a plastic nut on the flex cable sheath screws onto the Dremel where the nose piece was. The smaller 12volt milwaukee rotary tool is compatible but probsbly not the bigger one. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  25. You should have said who denied making it. I ran the number in the UL approval sticker, hoping to find out who applied for the UL aporoval. As soon as I ran E227927 I got a hit for Northern Toool and pictures of a red miter saw. Some pictures said Ironton, one of their house brands. I hope NT was not the one you talked to. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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