Mycrossover

Wiss is Apex these days, with a corresponding drop in quality. Malco or Midwest is the way to go if you want a good tool. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If you are only doing a few, a simple anvil and punch set gets it done. One set for the male and one for the female. Sewing stores have simple tools that often come with the snaps. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That is an unanswerable question. Tap quality, tap alloy, material being tapped, lube used, technique used all effect tap life. Carbon taps are more brittle than HSS. They also do not hold an edge as long. There are also many thread profiles for different materials and tapping situations. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I took pity on you and searched. E Replacements has a video on replacing a trigger on a DeWalt hammer drill. Probably pretty close to yours. There is a lot of info out there if you just do a search. Try " DeWalt hammer drill wiring diagram", "Changing the trigger on a DeWalt Hammer drill", etc. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Didn't you check to see what went where when you took it apart? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

PC/Delta was Norm's sponsor. Not surprising. For years the big PC was the standard for router tables. Now there are a few other choices. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I think all recons might not be created equal. It may depend on who is selling it or who reconditioned it and whether it has a minimum warranty. If it works out of the box it is probably going to last. I have only bought a couple of recons and never saw something as bad as those Milwaukees. Where did they come from? Remind me not to buy there. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Glad you found the part. It is a shame to lose a tool for an unavailable part. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I think virtually all rotary tools, corded or cordless, use the same 3/4-12 thread on the nose piece as the Dremel and they all accept a 1/8" collet so it is no surprise that other brands accept Dremel accessories. Do the other brands have a 3/16 collet available or accept Dremel collets? Some rotary bits are in that smaller size. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

No picture or make or model number? Don't expect any replies. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Almost every rechargable battery is higher than the nominal value at full charge. When was the last time you heard anybody refer to a car battery as 13.8 volts. NiCds and NiMH batteries are labeled by their nominal value, 1.2 volts per cell, but they, too are higher off the charger. It was not to distinguish between types but somebody got the bright idea to make their batteries look higher voltage than the competition and some, Like Bosch switched to the higher value to not lose sales to them. I am sure there are a few who are still taken in by the higher voltage claim. Milwaukee is in the middle with their lower voltage cells at 12 instead of 10.8 but the higher voltage ones are 18. It is all advertising and I wish they would settle on a standard. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I tried PB Blaster into the pivot and when I worked them a little black stuff came out with the lube. Not too bad but a long way from falling open like my old ones, which do not have any slop in spite of being so free. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Just arrived. They look brand new BUT the pivot is very stiff. I have the previous model and the handles on that one are maybe a 1/ 4" longer. They switched from a smooth to a textured grip and the design of the pivot area has changed. Maybe these were up for sale because they are a bit stiff. I shot the pivot full of Superlube and it helped a little. I like my old ones better but I really can't say I was screwed.Any suggestions on loosening them up? I exercised them quite a bit and there was some initial improvement but they will not fall open like my old ones Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Regular taps are not the best choice for cleaning up dirty or damaged thread. There are chaser taps and dies for that. The thread is already messed up and you don't want to lose any more metal. The chasers straighten and reshape thread and carry out dirt in the flutes. They are virtually all made by Lang, formerly Kastar, regardless of what name they are sold under. A regular tap/ die tends to cut away anything that is out of place. Look at the metal chips after using one to fix a damaged thread. All things being equal, HHS is better than carbon steel but that is not always the case. There is a lot of HSS coming from China that is garbage and not as good as a carbon from Hanson, also sold under a bunch of other brand names. That is not just my opinion. A big seller on ebay of Chinese tap and die sets and machine tools told me that US carbon is better quality than the HSS in the big Chinese sets Somebody said the handles are the weak spot of cheap kits. Not so. The cheap handles are easily replaced. The low quality taps and dies are what you are stuck with. I must be missing something about those Gearwrench ratcheting handles. You are supposed to turn the tap a couple of turns and back up to break the chip. With a ratchet, don't you have to reverse it to back up? That seems like more work, not less. Pilot drill charts are generally sized to give you a 75% thread. That is good for some materials but should be less for others. Most sets only come with a plug tap that has 3 to 5 starter threads. A complete set has a taper with 5 to 7 for easier starting in hard materials and a bottoming tap with 2 to 3, for cutting thread to almost the bottom of a blind hole. A lot of taps I see for sale have a spiral flute for pushing chips out in front of the tap, instead of trying to carry them up the flutes. That is great for through holes but for blind holes, not so much. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It's out for delivery. He sent it Fed Ex. How about that. I'll know shortly if it is as nice as the pictures. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Dont use it to tighten the pump mounting bolts, that are a 3/4-16 locking thread on an old Ajax/Walker J139 floor jack. Ask me how I know. You can strip some threads before you even stop it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I didn't like anything I saw, new. Even the current Snap On is quite a bit different. I just bought a pair of SnapOn 96BCP pliers on ebay. They look mint in the pictures. They are on the way. I have my fingers crossed. I will report back when they arrive. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I just got something new on my news feed. https://www.core77.com/posts/78958/The-Everyday-Blade-A-Tiny-Flip-Out-Knife-That-Takes-Standard-X-Acto-Blades It doesn't exist yet but the inventer has raised a lot of cash on Kickstarter. It is a really nice little folding knife that uses X-Acto blades. Watch the short video. They show it with the popular #11 blade, that I use for all kinds of stuff. I'd buy one at the right price. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Right you are. I missed the lowest common denominator.. My bad. Back to grammar school. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

On Garage Journal, also on tap a talk there is a HF pass/fail thread. It has been going for years and there are thousands of posts. The problem with HF is poor quality control. One guy's great find might not work out for the guy who takes his recommendation. Better QC costs money. They would rather refund or exchange the bad ones. Forget about most spare parts. I buy there but after 90 days it is a throw away if I can't fix it. Some stuff is not too bad if you find a work around for some bad design problems. I am having fun with a band file I just bought there but I always expect to see smoke every time I use it. LOL. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I just re read your post. Of course the inside of the threaded end piece is less than 22 mm. That is the inner diameter of the thread.All you need to do is figure out which pitch 22 mm die matches the end piece and thread the pipe. Do you have a thread gauge or a tap or a bolt to see what fits the end piece? You must have access to a tap and die set if you were planning to make this clamp. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The reason there is no 20/40/60 is because the numbers don't work. In a 20/40 the cells are in parallel pairs for 20 and all in series for 40. In a 20/60 the cells are in parallel groups of three and all in series for 60. All cells are always in use for the same watt/hrs. More voltage or more current. For a 20/ 60 that also does 40 some of the cells could not be used for 40 whether there is just one cell or two or three in parallel at 20. It is possible with 6 cells in parallel groups at 20, sets of 3 at 40 and sets of 2 at 60 but that would be an insanely expensive, huge, very heavy battery. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Thanks, you have answered my question. If DeWalt has a brushless die grinder then high speed brushless has arrived. I just had not seen one before and did not know. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Those things come in a few different blade sizes and Olfa has 3 different blade materials, plain steel, one with a black coating and stainless for wet situations. The stainless blades seemed to hold an edge better than the plain steel, for any purpose. I like them too. You have to be careful breaking off the end for a new blade as they can break wrong and ruin the next blade. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I am not exactly sure what you are asking. A 22 mm pipe geta 22mm die. There are three common pitches in that size, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0. The pitch will be detirmined by the thread on your clamp end unless you are working from scratch and can select it. It sounds like you might be talking about the minor diameter, the diameter at the bottom of the threads or what will snugly pass through the die. For M22 x 1.0 it is 20.917. For M22 x 1.5 it is 20.367. For 22x 2.0 it is 19.835. This info. is easily found online off any metruc thread dimension chart. I hope this helps. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk