Mycrossover

I disagree. Unless you are doing it for a living many do not see a broken tool as a good reason to run out and buy the newest goodie without making an honest attempt to fix the problem. I would still rather have a DeWalt than a Ryobi of any vintage. Ryobi is homeowner grade and not meant to stand up to abuse like DeWalt. I would start with the brushes, too. The OP asked for repair advice and I am amazed how many said to not even bother. I am sure he is aware of the benefits of newer technology but this might just be something minor. I have an old PC 14.4. One battery pack is a rebuild and the chuck was replaced but it still does the job. Top dollar tools are not always a guarantee. There was a thread recently about new Milwaukee drills with chucks with bad runout and the owners were looking for an alternate chuck as Milwaukee had no real solution. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have an old corded Makita die grinder that came with a 1/8" as well as the regular 1/4" collett. It really is pretty awkard as a rotary tool. I had a few 1/8" shaft cutoff wheels that were a little too much for the Dremel but other than that, I just use it for 1/4". That Bosch seems to be the best bet in a cordless tool. I would not obcess over brushless. That tool probably has more power than you could ever use. with little Dremel accessories. Brushes last for years. Brushless is the new must have goody, even if you never see the difference. I have no idea but has anybody built a brushless tool that runs that fast, like a router? The electronics has to do what it does at 30,000, not 2,000 rpm. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I just looked to see what a Devour was and it seems like it has set a record for shortest lived Ryobi tool. It is apparantly already on clearance at HD. That doesn't mean it was a bad tool but it apparantly did not sell or was not profitable to make. I have an old Shark carpet sweeper and I am always surprised how well it picks up without vacuum and only a brush. That Devour reminds me of a street sweeper. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The Ridgid name is owned by Emerson Electric, the same people that make the red Ridgid plumbing tools. They have have a finacial arrangement with HD to use it for their orange power tools.TTI makes these tools. Whether HD deals with TTI directly, as I suspect, or Emerson is the middle man, I am not sure. To complicate it more, TTI is owned by some European based in Hong Kong. The tools are made in China by factories that I believe TTI does not own. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Goof off was made to remove latex paint so it is not surprising that it acts on various plastics. Don't they warn you to avoid contact with plastic? Thermo plastics, the kind that melt from heat are the most vulnerable. Thermosetting plastics like bakelite are immune from most stuff. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Aren't they pulling out of the EU? 12volt batteries might be an opening shot. LOL!! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

On a lot of forums the short lasting properties of WD40 have been discussed. WD stands for water displacement and it was originally to dry out wet electrical equipment by displacing the water. It is non conductive. It is also mostly solvent so it leaves very little lube behind. For a sawdust collector like a miter saw, a dry lube is the best bet. However WD40 is fine for the cleanup process with some mild abrasive. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Forget about it. We're all friends here. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What do you care? Somebody commented on my post. I have seen many old threads start again. I have no idea what you are talking about. Threads live forever. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I think you reach a point where you get so big that you no longer have a handle on what you are selling. The people you deal with are totally removed from the product and in some cases, on technical items, are unable to even understand the complaint. They used to think Sears was here forever. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have a Tektronix TX3, later, rebranded and renumbered as a Fluke when they bought the company. It was meant to compete with the 87. I love that meter. Recently I picked up some $.99 leads on ebay, straight from China, for some other cheap meters . They are pvc but they are virtually identical to what came with the Tektronix. Very nicely made. I suspect most leads are made there, regardless of brand. There seems to be a range of quality for ebay Chinese test leads. I saw silicone ones pretty cheap, too. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

To prevent battery damage, lithium battery circuitry cuts off the power when battery voltage drops to a certain voltage. If it were to go lower, the cells would suffer permanent damage and not take a charge. You would have to open the pack and put a load directly on the cells to ÷×=% them up. It doesnt have to be a big load if you are patient Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That sums it up as well as I have ever read. BOSCH first called their 3 cell lithium 10.8 V but to keep up with the competition, renamed it 12 volts....same battery. Mine are marked 10.8 but if I need a replacement they will say 12 volts. In Europe trade regulations require nominal voltage so it is still 10.8 V over there and there are probably no 20's either. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The Red Max and Husqvarna are both Husqvarna brands. I have the Husqvarna 580. The Red Max 8500 is basically the same blower. The only real difference is the harness. Based on advice on another thread that the Husky is more comfortable I checked them both out. My dealer carries both. I got good advice; The Husky is better padded and is more comfortable. The parts guy gets spares for both out of the same drawer. All of the several Husqvarna brands share a common parts data base. The thing is powerful. When I get tired of blowing leaves I am going to make a jet bike. LOL!!! There is actually some kick back. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Forget about brand with gas washers. They buy an engine and a pump from manufacturers of those products and stick them on a cart. You want to make sure they are good quality. For the engine the Honda GX series are top quality. Their GC series is home owner quality and shorter lived. The really top pumps are US made pumps from CAT. A triplex style pump is best. AR makes some good ones, too, though I think they now make them in China. I believe the DeWalt washers are made from good components. Pressure washers come on a range of sizes, with bigger pumps and motors. You have to decide how much washer you need. If you have a good motor and pump it will probably not be sized too small for your needs. You can see which engine and pump it is by looking if the literature does not say. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

In theory, lithium batteries have a pretty flat discharge curve. That means the battery voltage drops little until it is almost discharged. It is voltage that detirmines power. Amp/hr is the run time and should be directly proportional to the number of Amp hrs of the battery. In practice the ability to hold the voltage might be a little worse. The analogies of big vs small engine are not really correct. A better analogy is the same engine with a bigger or smaller gas tank. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have an Ariens 2 stage and a drive thru driveway. It eats up those piles at the ends of the driveway pushed up by the plow. There is a few hundred feet between those ends. I don't know if the power and run time is there in a battery blower. It is a lot easier to refill the little tank than to worry about keeping enough batteries charged. We haven't had a lot of storms in NJ recently, but we have had a few big ones. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

You are right about Amazon sometimes not having the current picture. I got into this with them with another product. They explained the manufacturer or 3rd party seller supplies the pictures and they publish what they get. They are rather indifferent to specs and details. In my case, the manufacturer had made major changes but did not change the model number. They offered free exchange if I got the older, less desirable model. They would not even look at the outside of the box where the new product was shown in blue and the old one was red. I bought elsewhere, where the seller immediately looked at the product for me for a simple one and done transaction.

I'm not sure you can make too much of that. You are talking about two different retailers. Did you check the Amazon price in the US? Amazon has gotten real cute lately and the cost of the "free" shipping is built into the price, just like ebay. They are often not a bargain at all. Gillette razor co. is in Boston, USA but their blades are far cheaper in places like India, where they would sell nothing at US prices. I suspect the cost of doing business in the EU is rather high, which may be part of the reason.

I didn't drain my chainsaw last season and it was dead as a door nail when I just tried to use it. The dealer wanted a fortune to clean it so I took the carb apart, flushed it with Gumout emptied the tank and replaced with premix and it ran like a top....for five minutes and quit again. There must have been more gunk in the fuel line. Ready for second attempt. I will stick to the premix in the can, from now on, if I ever get it running. It is no alcohol gas with 2 cycle oil and their version of Stabil. That stuff will not gum up and ruin parts. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That's funny. Still laughing. Thanks for sharing. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

While on the subject, I have a pair of 7" longnose without a cutter(my preference) by Snap On. They are #96ACP. They were replaced by similar 96BCP. They are pretty beefy at the tips and of course are made with Snap On precision. Both are discontinued, though I keep watching ebay for a really clean pair at a decent price. I want a second pair and have not found anything. The Chinese made Southwires look similar but have a cutter. Reviews of Knipex suggest that they flex. It is that ridgid longnose that I like. Most are more delicate at the tips. The 7" length feels right and I prefer a not overly bulky insulated grip. Anybody know of an alternative? Thanks. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Bosch owned Skil when this thread started but sold it to Chevron. Emerson Electric owns the Ridgid name. Thy make electric motors, the red Ridgid plumbing tools and Sears and HD shop vacuums. They licensed the name to HD for the orange and black hand tools. HD has those tools made by TTI. Just to make things more complicated, companies lease their name to other companies for specific products. That is the case with HD Ridgid. Ryobi manufactures a line if power tools, sold in Japan and Asia. They sold the name to TTI for a different line of tools that they can sell everywhere except Japan and the rest of Asia.Those are the ones we see. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

There is supposed to be only one size T shank. I am pretty sure Ryobi did not set out to make a unique blade that just fit their saw. That makes no sense. Somebody screwed up in engineering or manufacturing. You can maybe fix the tool, definitely modify other brand blades or take it back. Ryobi screwed up. I doubt contacting them would do any good but he could try. I would return the tool and get something else. It may not be HFs fault but they are most likely the one to provide a solution. They are selling a T shank tool that does not accept any T shank they or hardly anyone else can supply. I do not buy the argument that it is only required to work with Ryobi blades. A T shank is a T shank. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

In most cases the insertion of the battery pushes some mechanical switch that shifts the power source from the 120 volt power supply, that converts the 120AC to something approximating the DC battery voltage, over to the battery. It looks like there is a bad internal connection or dirty switch contact. The radio "knows" it has been switched to battery but is not seeing any battery voltage because one of the connections,+ or - , is not making it to the radio. There are other ways it could be done so this is just a WA guess. If you are not up to going into the radio it is unlikely anybody has a solution that will help you. Is there something that gets depressed in that battery socket when a battery is put in? If that is the way they did it, some contact cleaner to the switch or maybe bending a switch contact would do the trick. But to be effective you would still have to go inside. It could be a bad solder connection to the switch. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk