paulengr

I think you said it all. 18 V, 12 V. The other issue with “conversions” is the batteries have thermal switches or sensors and even sometimes a way to detect a series so the big tools don’t work on too small of a battery.

Then you can also braze or weld to attach. Or with two similar sizes (say attaching to socket) you could use.a wide shaft collar and set screws.

A. B. Chance. Part of Hubbell or Cooper now. That’s a wrench for line workers. Probably can get replacements from a lineman store. Around here that’s J Harlen.

SBD sells Stanley as a “budget” brand and Dewalt as “premium”. Husky is also “budget”. First can you return broken ones for replacement? You can even return Harbor Freight tools. If not, skip it. I know you can return Husky and Dewalt. Not sure on Stanley. I’ll add more. First don’t ignore Harbor Freight or Northern. HF used to be Chinese junk. It’s fairly respectable now. Northern is “rich rednecks”. So just not HF, Lowe’s carries Craftsman which is another Stanley/Dewalt brand positioned midway between them. Husky is partly made by SBD, too. Let’s not forget Neiko and Tekton which are essentially Amazon house brands. I’d say they are midrange too. No issues with them either. You can save money on “sets” but they often give you a lot of poor quality tools in a set so skip these. Sorry that’s just how it is. Plus you get that stupid giant blow molded box that takes up tons of space and is utter garbage. Second here is the problem. You can never have enough tools. You will always run into some strange fastener or special situation. Start small with say just a good 3/8” socket set, an adjustable wrench, some screw drivers. Then as you get comfortable and need more, get more. Set a monthly budget. Put a running list on your phone. As you run into situations add things to your list. Then you can shop around and get a little at a time. You save money buying quality and getting just what you need, not a bunch of crappy tools and oddball bits you never use. Buy six point sockets. 12 points are easier to get on but on bad/stripped nuts six point sockets grip better. This separates a lot of cheap tools from cheap but good quality. Next we have the laser/painted/etched vs stamped question on the labels. If you can get it go with stamped but this is rare. ALL other options no matter what they say come right off if the socket runs on something. They talk up their laser etched stuff but none of my high end socket labels that are not stamped are visible after six months.’Finally impact vs nonimpact. Nonimpact sockets are thinner and get in tight spaces better. Impact sockets are almost indestructible. If you ever intend on getting an impact wrench just buy the impact sockets and adapters now. They will be black oxide, ugly as sin, and tough as nails. So very good for what they are meant for. In terms of ratchets this is the money spot. Shop around. Try them out. Look at the size of the head (thinner is better but raises price). Swivels can be nice but may make it harder to use. Extending handles are nice. There are dual head 3/8 & 1/4” heads. Handy. I have one. It does bulk it up though. Also get at least one breaker bar, longer is better. Get it I the biggest size sockets you use. You can always adapter down. Get an extension assortment. Ratcheting is nice...basically makes it a ratchet. Everything is interchangeable so maybe buy them all separate. Usually the ratchets that come in sets are crap. Sorry that’s just how it is. In wrenches you want combination wrenches unless you have some special needs. It’s more expensive but get ratcheting box ends now and thank me later. You will be glad you did. One of the interesting sets if you want to explore is Klein and Harbor Freight make double box end wrenches where just 4-5 have most sizes. Gearwrench is an American (Apex Tool Group) brand, mostly American made. While you are at it Crescent is a sister company/brand and makes great adjustable wrenches and pliers. Between the above three you can easily stay under $150 and have good quality stuff. Buy socket strips at HD and buy a tool box. On the wrenches I love a wrench roll. The Dickies brand one is really nice. I have both sizes but I only use the large. It holds all my wrenches SAE and metric with room to spare. In terms of tool boxes/bags I do electrical work so I have the electrician open top 12x12 bag. Fully loaded it’s almost uncomfortable to carry. Those giant 24” mechanics bags are insane. I have one strictly for my 1” to 2” wrenches. The sockets all fit in two Dewalt medium Toughsystem boxes. One for 1/4 and 3/8, one for 1/2” with impact wrenches in each plus a lot of adapters, Tory bits, hex bits, etc. Electrical service work requires an insane amount of tools, more than mechanics. We just don’t need as many really large tools. In screwdrivers they sell these huge sets but the reality is you need one 1/4” or 3/8” “beater” (Milwaukee or Dewalt impact is better), one 1/4” flat blade decent length, a good length #2 Phillips, maybe stubbies but a small specialty one is better, and a set of “precision” screwdrivers. Hardened tips can’t be beat so this is where Wiha, Milwaukee, Dewalt are all you need to look at. Harbor Freight has some good ones too. Get one of those Allen (hex) sets too. There are excellent and American made ones. Then there are regular, needle nose and maybe lineman’s pliers and diagonals. Again Crescent is a good name and reasonably priced without going German.

Sounds like the switch if that’s where it came from. All motors even brushless will eventually fail, too. In drills it’s not worth the cost to replace. Especially when you are limping along on old NiMH batteries.

Get a flat disc style sandpaper attachment. Then attach to that. If it’s plastic epoxy will work. If it’s metal need something more substantial. Also depending on what you are doing go with an impact or drill/driver instead and epoxy your thing to an appropriate diameter socket.

Keyless chucks wear out. Replace. Most of the Dewalt ones are made by Rohm. Their web site lists chucks by brand because they make them for everybody. I’m kind of partial to Jacobs but on power tools Rohm is the way to go. Changing is simple. The big trick is breaking the chuck loose off the shaft. There are several YouTube videos showing you how to use an Allen wrench and a vise.

Well it’s going to put out less peak (nut busting) torque compared to an impact and it’s physically bulkier. The big plus is quiet but body shop work generally leans towards work that should require ear plugs anyway (hammers, grinders, impacts, needle guns, metal saws), especially where removing bolts is concerned so my thinking is no. I’d see more use in having a variety of impacts like a little stubby one, a mid size (around 250 ft-lbs) and the monster 1400 ft-lb bust or break tool. Use torque sticks on the mid size to save time tightening bolts instead of a torque wrench.

You can’t just guess. It might be printed on the name plate. If you don’t have the information it takes a lot of experimentation to find out. It is cheaper to just buy another motor. Plus many motors have two capacitors or one with both inside. What you have for information is just the start. Small single phase motors are ridiculously complicated things compared to three phase ones.

Hard to say about any of it. To begin with ALL electric trimmers are marginal at best. Landscapers use them because of noise rules but they are terrible. Everywhere else they use gas trimmers for a reason. And brush trimmer heads don’t work on “feather light” gas engines but what you have is evff Ed n lower torque than the lightest gas trimmer. It does what it does...makes a thin string go fast for LIGHT duty jobs. It’s not a chainsaw. Any of them, even Stihl. I’m not a landscaper but I grew up on a farm and my current lawn is 3 acres so the light duty stuff for 1/2 acre lawns is useless. I learned long ago the brush cutter heads are marginally better. The biggest advantage is you don’t have to constantly replace string when brush cutting. The best thing to do is get better string. Either get the stuff with a triangular shape or get the stuff with the titanium steel reinforced core. Both do fantastically better than the round plastic string and the titanium string beats the brush cutter blades. Plus these are both compatible with the standard head. As to your ideas... The torque out of a brushless DC motor is related to the voltage at the motor leads. So if it’s the same motor you can get more out by raising the voltage. Or with the same voltage use more wire in the motor (more turns) but this requires more available current and thus bigger wire. Higher voltage keeps turns and wire size down but demands more insulation so has a similar effect on the motor. This is why for instance Dewalt created the Flexvolt batteries but Milwaukee stuck with the 18 V platform but just made larger (more current) batteries to achieve the same performance. You just can’t predict these things. So the 40 V version might help, or might not. It’s an expensive experiment. I guess you can always return it. As to why the 40-60 V range the answer is Ego. They set out specifically to make battery powered landscaping tools. The competitors were awful at the time. Ego uses a 56 V battery but the thing is HUGE compared to even the biggest from anyone else with big contacts. I mean the batteries alone are bigger than most Ryobi tools. They were the first ones that did not suck. So suddenly everybody else had to step up their game. To date I think only Stihl matches them. So they upped both voltage and current (output). Unless Ryobi has a ten pound battery they just aren’t going to match that. If the resistance in the battery itself limits output current, voltage will drop and torque is affected. This is where higher output batteries will help. But if the limitation is the controller or the motor itself all you get is a higher capacity...the internal resistance is less but the battery is not the limitation, Usually high output is useful where low speed torque is an issue like with a drill in steel or an impact gun. If there is a big difference on a fully charged battery compared to “1 bar”, high output will matter but otherwise it probably won’t. Again...you can’t predict these things. I have HO 6 Ah and regular 5 Ah Milwaukee batteries. I’m a contractor. I can’t tell the difference other than the HOs last longer. Plus there is a big difference in terms of engines. Horsepower equals torque times speed. In a gas engine which is what the attachments are for horsepower is a curve. You don’t hit full horsepower and torque until around 2000 RPM and it goes up from there. Thus you HAVE to have a gearbox. Cars would be a lot simpler and lighter and faster without it. In a DC motor horsepower is essentially a constant. You get maximum torque at zero RPM (stall). If you increase speed, torque MUST decrease. So with a trimmer when it works best at top speed only the gas engine is best. Electric is always going to be a compromise at best. It’s great for things like drills where it can slow down and still work but not with trimmers.

That’s why the youtubers are a little better. At some point unlike Protool and Toolguyd you have to actually show the tool being used. None of them are contractors. That’s the issue...they have never used and often never touched a tool. As far as metal sawzall was invented for electrical demo. Good for that. I did panel cut outs for years with a grinder. The backside will be u mess but it looks decent from the front. A saber saw does much cleaner IF you have room for it. A circular saw is even better if you have room. On conduit and strut cuts saber saws bust blades very easy. Grinder or bandsaw or circular works good. Bandsaw is best but it’s sort of a non-multitasker which is why I’m not a fan. It’s just one more tool. I hate bandsaws. Talk about horrible ergonomics no matter the brand or design. I’ve tried electric shears and a hand punch. Shears are OK on flat sheet metal ONLY. Otherwise they suck. Have the Milwaukee 5.5” circular now. Cuts fast and cuts most everything, Good tool but I’ve heard the gearboxes wear out. Kind of becoming a go to over the grinder, saber, and bandsaw. My next tool I want to try is a nibbler. I really think it will be the ultimate cutout tool for sheet metal except it doesn’t do really straight cuts and has limited thickness. I wouldn’t go under 10 gauge for electrical. “Max” 14 gauge when so many panels are 14 or 16 gauge is a big concern. So that puts me into the $1000 roofer nibblers.

Ridgid is an oddity. It is not a house brand of Home Depot unlike Ryobi. You can buy Ridgid branded pipe wrenches almost anywhere for instance. But they make/market a lot of stuff that is exclusive to Home Depot which makes it look like a house brand. It is a professional grade value brand or a higher priced homeowner brand, but Ridgid Tool is definitely independent. Take a look at the RE-6 crimper/cutter for instance, definitely not an HD product. Which brings up a point. They seem to position their power tools at the low end...decent quality at good prices. But then they have a lot of professional grade tools with few if any equivalents. The closest thing to that RE-6 which comes complete at $2500-3000 is the Greenlee ECCX Pros at around $4500 but then you have to buy another $1000 of accessories to make it equivalent. Then buy dies for both.

So with all that the DWS779 looks close to your price range and does everything albeit at 12”. If you want to get under $300 other than sales that puts you into either a house brand like a Ryobi which is intended for DIY or a Chinese brand, at 10”. A 12” sliding compound miter is a big saw that will do anything. You’re already looking at a $300 price tag. I’d go all the way if you only buy one once a decade. You can probably rent/loan it out for free beer to recoup the costs!

Get a stand. Weight really doesn’t matter because even without a stand it is always sitting somewhere. You need the weight for the accuracy and so the frame doesn’t twist from torque. Cast steel or iron is the cheapest lightest way to do that. “Weight” as in portability is secondary. All cutoff saws are awkward space eaters. But on the truck/van is where it matters. In a garage you can always pack other things around it if you break it down. If all you do is straight cuts all the sliding, compound bevel stuff is meaningless. So a 7.5” does everything up to about 2x6. As soon as you bevel in either vertical or horizontal though the height and width of the cut face go up dramatically. That’s when bigger blades and sliders are a must. On a 10” compound dual bevel without a slider 4” crown molding is pushing the limits and 6” is not possible unless you can do it vertical or on some crazy jig angle. On a slider it’s easy. Even steep angles on say deck boards on a 10” are pushing it. BUT sliders are worse than dual bevel are worse than single for accuracy. Every moving part, bearing, etc., needs some looseness to move and each one cocks the blade out of tolerance that much more. So do longer slides. So if all you do is straight 99 degree cuts avoid all that stuff. Simpler is better. It’s great for cribbing and rigging and form work where wood is sacrificial anyway or where you have two saws set up. But in DIY it limits your capabilities. You don’t need multiple saws and the cheap price is a trap. So since you have just one primary saw it needs to do everything. I’d go for a slider but portability isn’t there so I’d be looking for a corded 10” slider. The 7.5” seems like a huge compromise even with a slider.

What type of work puts that much shock load on the gearboxes? Or do you do that much cutting to where it wears them out?

How did you break them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most people have gone cordless. The corded market is now more specialty. At the extreme value end you will find Harbor Freight and I think Lowe’s still sells a Black and Decker model. Whether these work for you or not depends on your demands. Don’t expect much and you will not be disappointed. Just look for the return policy. Even Harbor Freight stepped up their game when they started doing free lifetime returns. I’m a contractor but I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a specialty tool that I might use once from them. There really isn’t a “midrange” market anymore in corded, as long as we’re not talking concrete and demolition tools.. The top end is models from Milwaukee, Makira, and Dewalt. These are contractor grade but like I said they are priced for the 70 year old contractor that is too cheap to buy cordless. You can almost just pick anyone. There are few differences. They use the same chucks (literally...they don’t make their own), and almost identical motors. This is really a “Ford vs. Chevy” debate. I prefer Milwaukee. Usually these are more pro oriented when you need a lot of energy like mixing plaster or drilling lots of holes in concrete. That is all I use my Milwaukee for. And by the way I bought it in 2006, to drill a bunch of holes for a pool cover and I finally burned up my old one. The problem is the cordless stuff is now lighter and higher power than the corded models, and low prices too. So it has created a situation where they’ve almost dried up the corded market in drills. The cordless market has far more variety than corded. And I’m sure you can get say a Ryobi or Craftsman cordless cheaper than corded.

Depends on peak ft- lb rating. I can use a cheater bar on a 3/4” drive torque wrench with a 3:1 torque multiplier and beat an impact but that’s for when the torque rating on a 1-7/8” nut is something crazy like 600 ft-lbs. Or do something sane and replace the old tech with super nuts.

Milwaukee makes one with a 1400 ft-lb output so yes. It will break 3/4” bolts if they don’t loosen,

...or until the blade snaps. Need also very narrow 1-2 mm blades on small terminals for control power on 5 mm terminal blocks. Another trouble spot is with a lot of devices they put the screw holes on narrow ears mounted at the base of the device with ridiculously narrow slots along the corners of the housing about a screw width wide. When devices are 100-200 mm deep (4-8") a fat screw driver with some torque pushes out of the slot because it's on an angle. A long narrow one frequently has torque issues either because of the narrow handle or the assumption that everything must be narrow including the blade. So personally I find the very ergonomic German screw drivers don't fit any if my use cases. They are not insulated, they are bigger and bulkier than the Klein, too fragile as "beater" screw drivers, and too big to get in narrow spots. To make matters worse in today's environment the safety crowd is demanding that everything is torqued to spec...that is use a torque screw driver. Frankly, those can only actually be used in perhaps 10% of the locations I run into. It's a nice theory but unless all of the equipment is redesigned it can't happen. The only way that can happen is if inspectors push the issue so that craftsmen can push back on the manufacturer and require them to make a way to comply with the torque spec they published. I have no idea how the Listing agencies ever torque anything to specification for third party testing purposes. In most cases it doesn't seem possible or it only works on ONE item at a time on an open bench. Last issue remember that once corrosion sets in never mind the various effects on screws over time up to 300% torque may be needed for removal especially if thread locker or MbS2 isn't used as a lubricant and screws are not self lubricating brass or cadmium. Most guys assume a screw is once and done. More than once I've just left them or removed with a grinder. If anything it seems to suggest that the ergonomics issues aren't with the screw drivers but the things they are used on. Talk to electricians and plumbers. They use screw drivers more than anyone else. Dry wallers and others just use tons of Phillips #2 or similar fasteners usually with a cordless driver of some kind but they are almost always in wide open areas where accessibility is never a problem and rarely removing screws that are seized up over time. They can just cut them witb a reciprocating saw. I do the same when I can but most jobs require removing just one or two parts for replacement. Even replacing an entire panel involves carefully marking and removing before demo of the old one then trying to stretch wiring and plumbing to fit the new stuff. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

It's all preference. Some like a squishy handle. Some like hard. Some like very ergonomic Ger designs but they are fat and don't get into narrow spots. Some like the huge old U shaped antique auger things. Personally I believe some of it may be hand shape. I find the Kraftform shape very awkward but I have long skinny fingers. It is also task specific. For large fat screws such as on doors I carry a large portion "impact rated" (can hit the end with a hammer with no damage) screwdriver with a 3/8" flat blade that I can also pry with. The handle is wide with lots of leverage. Intermediate most of them are 1000 V rated insulated screw drivers with rubber cushion handles. I don't like any of them and the blades and insulation are constantly a problem but I've tried several brands with the same result. Mostly in this category outside of those is a Klein 5 in 1. There is something about that particular model that works well and is very comfortable. Very popular with maintenance technicians. The others (11 in 1, 7 in 1) either have junk bits or junk handle. But all of these have serious accessibility problems. A lot of electrical controls locate the screws in extremely inaccessible spots. The screw drivers so far are either too large or too short to reach. That's when I reach for precision style screwdrivers. They are narrow and long, most with a rotating end so you can put pressure on it to hold it in until either the screw moves or the Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

Usually the best contractors don't advertise, it's word of mouth. They have worked with each other so they know who is good and who isn't. Electricians and plumbers especially work together. You can ask your neighbors but you need to know someone that is also a contractor. If you don't know any contractors stop at a job site. Don't bother with cheap housing or large high rise projects...They are fast not the best. And ask more than one so they are not just recommending a brother or cousin. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

Actually scratch that. You obviously do NOT own Toughsystem boxes or you would know about the latch system. As standalone stacking boxes the yellow ears on the sides lock them together, SAME as Ridgid, Milwaukee, and even Tough Orgsnizer boxes. As with the others they work very well if you don’t abuse them. If you do not use them and just stack the boxes they will dislodge occasionally in the back of the truck or going up/down stairs. So use as needed. The downside is it’s a stack. Remove all boxes on too to get to the one you need. Where Tough Ststem stands out is in the racking system for workshops, vans, and the DS Carrier. This changes things considerably. The latches are actually the handles. Install a box on the arms by lifting the side handles and slide it on. The rolling cart is goofy. It goes on backwards AND blocks the box above it. Other than that one this changes the stack into drawers...each one is independent of the others. With the handles down there is a square protrusion that locks the handle onto the arms and the clearance between arms is so narrow they cannot shift and get loose but loose enough to be grab-and-go ready. The DS Carrier has yet a third system. There is a locking bar that grabs the otherwise useless ears on the back of every box except the rolling one and can be padlocked. So going back to building a separate lock system, why? I don’t see Dewalt eliminating any of these in 2.9 except maybe the metal clips for the DS lock. Personally I’d maybe make it an optional accessory if I was at SBD. Just put grooves on the box for locating it if you buy the clips. I’ll bet maybe 1% of owners have ever used it. I took them off. All they do is get caught on things. If someone is going to bother to steal a tool on the DS Carrier they will take the whole cart! Why stop with just one tool or box.

Not sure about 2.0 but on 1.0 all the boxes have a hasp slot. Even if you buy a job box it has a slot for a hasp. I can’t imagine anything but those stupidly useless brief case locks coming built in. A padlock is far more secure and a bicycle/boat lock does the whole stack. The DS carrier has a lock mechanism where you rotate a handle and put one lock on all of them. The rolling box is the only one that doesn’t lock. But you could buy the large non-rolling tool box and have one that latched and locks too. Either way the only place I have ever seen where took theft is a problem on the work site during working hours is Detroit automotive plants especially Ford plant #1. If it’s not physically bolted down they steal it even if you turn your back for 30 seconds. Don’t go there with any tools you want and go back to job boxes. But I live in the South. We take care of that problem here. A thief would be lucky to only get fired. The guy he ribs might decide to punish the thief personally and the law would look the other way, We don’t tolerate that behavior here and that’s why it rarely goes on. I’ve had to overnight in hotels in Charlotte multiple times with an open bed truck, the Libtard sewer of the South, and never had anything stolen yet. After hours or in the back of a truck use the bicycle chain and/or ratchet strap them down. Even latching them together. Locks are to keep honest people out. My grinder removes hardened padlocks in 2 minutes. A couple wrenches does the job in 15 seconds, quietly, and you can learn how on Youtube.. If your boxes are loose in the back of the truck where a thief can simply grab one while walking by they will especially in bad parts of the big cities. Country folk are afraid of being shot where there are no gun laws protecting the criminals. But if a thief is going to rob you on purpose no lock will even slow them down. That’s where the side latches or a ratchet strap are no better than a padlock. ABS is just as strong as steel when done right and it doesn’t rust, and it gives more which you need on the side latches so I.don’t see an advantage: I’ve heard of guys ripping ears and handles off but unless you abuse them I haven’t had trouble. I have accidentally ripped the metal latches off by catching them on things with the latches open though so I don’t see where a metal latch improves this. You sound like you’re better off with job boxes if that’s an issue. The top bins for 2.9 are the half width Tough Organizers. No separate “launch” needed. You can buy them today for $10-15 each. I’m on the fence about 2.0. I keep 4 half width (lengthwise) Tough Organizers in my rolling bin now. The tray holds really long tools. The thing that I’m on the fence about is the lid bins depend on application. And they look like you lose space. The thing is almost every tool box comes with some tray system. Most of them are a dumb waste of space. The idea is frequently used tools. But that’s what an organizer system is for. In my rolling box everything is binned in Tough Organizers or bags (for compactness) now. The tray is mostly in the way if I use it. The 2.0 trays would be genuinely useful (or not) in this box. Just going by internet pictures at least. In my drill box the top trays are a great feature and works wonderful but those are the split lid bins. Except when the tiny latches break which is way too easy to do. Then they are constantly falling down in the way. I think this is the DS130 case. I can keep all my drill bits other than actual drills and a large assortment of sheet metal screws in them where the bottom bins hold common screws like drywall screws and an entire set of hole saws and step drills. Losing the bins would be a step backwards. In all my cases I use for parts storage I can never remember what’s in them and the fixed dividers just get in the way so not very functional. On my tool-oriented DS150s as opposed to the 130 they are too shallow for sockets and too short and tray slots too narrow for wrenches or long extensions so mostly they’re not very useful. I broke one tray so I want to just take it out but then the bins are loose and not locked in so I can’t. I’d be happy losing the tray completely. Not sure how the bins would work though without the a Tough Organizers holding them down or vice versa with the organizers in do you lose the bins? That would make the Packout bin boxes a clear superior product, So I’m on the fence with 2.0. It’s like DS130 vs 150. One is vastly superior as a tool box which keeps the accessories handy. The other is an excellent organizer, better than big Red except useless top tray and no clear lid. The clear lid thing is useless anyways most of the time, When you need to know what’s in it is when it’s in the bottom of the stack! I have few issues because a paint pen fixes the clear lid issue, even stacked. The clear lid one is inferior to both. You can remove bins on the organizer or pack extra bins in the tool box but you really need both and it seemed like Dewalt was trying to kill off the organizer which is a bad idea. Ridgid sucks. They don’t sell the boxes separate and the three boxes are so limited that even T Stak looks good.

Adding anything to the inside changes the resonance. Same with routing. This type of repair is tricky to do because the body of the guitar is part of the acoustics. So if it's just an appearance thing (it just hangs on a wall) then a lot of options are possible. If you care about the acoustics find your local professional musical instrument shop (not guitar center) and go from there. If you reglue need to duplicate what the manufacturer used AND it's not that easy. Another approach is a professional restorer. These guys are pros at putting almost anything back together but again not easy to find. This may sound odd but call a local moving company or two. They know who to call because if something gets damaged in shipment they are on the hook to get it fixed if there is insurance involved. But they're more the cosmetic specialists usually, but might know someone. The people you are looking for don't advertise very much and the ones you want don't advertise at all. It's 100% word of mouth. A crack in anything sets up a high stress at the microscopic level that you cant see that acts to push things apart and increase the crack size working against the remaining glued material pushing it together...The crack wins. A common mistake with partial cracks is not addressing the crack tip that you cant see because right now it looks solid. This problem though is basically considered "fatal". Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk