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bradleyheathhays last won the day on March 1

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About bradleyheathhays

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    Lexington, KY

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  1. Eyeing this jointer for sale, auction actually, and I can't tell if it's 6 or 8"; I want to say 8. Also, is it worth buying?...only 3/4 HP motor.
  2. What's the best way to secure 1/2" walls of HDPE together for a wood/resin mold? Drill and tap holes in the edges and use course thread screws?
  3. Whew, tool buying fever. Itchy fingers too. Well, I’ve just learned about duplicating systems and since that’s exactly what my application calls for I better go for that option. I really started to go for the Jet 1221VS but the duplicating systems I’ve seen require the motor be mounted behind or to the left of the spindle and the Jet has it mounted underneath. I was directed to a Grizzly model that has a ‘copy attachment’ included but was advised against it. So far this is the only model I’ve seen where the duplicator comes with. Can anyone suggest a lathe / duplicator
  4. Since my original post I've been advised against the WEN so I'm afraid I'll have to avoid that one. I've just come across this Delta 46-460 lathe at Lowes for $698. I can get the extension and stand on my HD credit and have a 1 HP motor and 42" bed. Quality product? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-21-5-in-x-34-5-in-Variable-Speed-Wood-Lathe/4743323
  5. Thanks for reading. I’ve finally had an idea good enough to sell that I’m in the market for my first lathe. I’ve got about $600 in store credit at both HD and Lowe’s so for now I’m gonna settle for something that’ll get the job done and then upgrade later. Any opinions about this WEN lathe from HD? ... https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-6-Amp-14-in-x-20-in-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Wood-Lathe-34034/306031795
  6. Say you had a 1/2" thick sheet of plexiglass and needed to tap a hole that was drilled beginning on the edge and continuing in 3 in. What type of thread density would you choose, coarse or fine? The strain on the anchor will be fairly minimal.
  7. I'd like to convert a regular sized refrigerator by cutting out the divide between the freezer and fridge compartments so that the whole thing maintains the same temp. Additionally, I'd I'd like to modify it so that it maintains between 50-60 deg F. Only problem is I don't know enough about how fridges work to know if it's possible. Anyone have advice on getting something like this done?
  8. Long story short, I've got some projects coming up where I need to maintain a consistent temp around 45 F for a few days. Only way I know how to do that is in a fridge, or possibly by turning my extra 1/2 bath (small) into a cooler using a window a/c unit. I think most window a/cs now a days have thermostat control and some of them are digital. I'm thinking I'll need one with some kind of non-digital dial type control. Rewire the thermostat to remain a closed circuit so that the a/c cools whenever it gets power. Then put a separate thermostat in-line with the power cord and con
  9. Unfortunately someone else got to this 14" right before I committed. I ended up with a decent 12" Craftsman instead. Sturdy factory base with some kind of original built-in digital readout although I'm not sure if it works. Saw runs fairly well with 6" cut height, 2 speeds, 1.25 hp, and a huge table that tilts 45 deg.. Any suggestion for good performing but economical belts or tires? I'm finding sets of tires on Amazon for around $18 but I'm wondering if that's too cheap to be any good.
  10. Well, lesson learned is if it walks like a bad capacitor and talks like a bad capacitor, it very well could be a bad centrifugal start switch...and that's what it turned out to be. After getting the new cap in it did the same growl no start and after getting it all apart and cleaning the switch it starts like a dream. Well almost, I have a replacement bearing on the way but after that this 30+ year old motor should run like new. Thanks for all the direction guys.
  11. Just got this 30 year old Craftsman table saw for free because the motor's not spinning, 1HP 110v. Before sourcing another I'm curious if I can get this one working again. When you hit the power the motor makes a decent hum and sounds like it's trying to go. Also there's an quick intermittent screeching that I'm guessing is a bad bearing. If you take the belt off and spin the pulley it gets up to speed fairly quickly making no unusual sounds or vibration. The notched arbor protrudes from the opposite side as well and I get the idea I could kick start it with a drill if I could hack togeth
  12. I'll learned enough about replacement parts now that I'll probably go ahead and buy the saw. I've gotten advice to make sure the wheels turn freely and that the bearings sound ok. Any other advice on what to check out on the saw when I do the inspection?
  13. Looking for my first band saw on the cheap and I found a 14" Reliant on sale for $50 but the seller says it needs a 1 HP motor. If I can find a used motor for around $50 then I'd go for it but I have no idea what size/type pulley the motor would need, and I'm guessing the seller doesn't either. I know the Reliant brand is akin to something like Harbor Freight so I know it's not worth much trouble, but the wallet is a bit slim at the moment. I suppose I could find the right HP motor at the local electric repair shop but does anyone have advice on what size/type pulley I should look for to go
  14. When sanding resin in an epoxy resin table up to 3000+ grit with a DA/RO sander, would adhesive-backed sandpaper give a more flat/accurate polish vs. hook and loop paper due to the potential for unevenness in the velcro system?
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