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bradleyheathhays

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    Lexington, KY

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  1. I just got a used Craftsman table saw and although I'll eventually upgrade I've got to deal with using this one for now. You don't find too many cheap used saws that work well and have a riving knife built in. This one doesn't have a specific riving knife, but it has a blade guard that's supported by what effectively serves as a riving knife. Problem is the blade isn't lining up with the 'knife' even though all parts seem to fit together as they should. Are there spacers out there that are designed to adjust a blade left and right on the arbor? Also, my new blade, a 7" Diablo combo is .04 thick while the saw's knife is .08. So in addition to adding a spacer on the arbor it looks like I need to get a thicker blade. Any suggestion there? Question (subject) number two...caulk adhesives that will stick to plastic. I use liquid nails heavy duty for a lot of my slap together projects but it doesn't seem to stick to regular 4 mil sheet plastic that well. Can anyone suggest a caulk tube adhesive that sticks to both sheet plastic and wood well?
  2. Any opinions on this Oliver planer at $769 w/ Byrd shelix ... https://olivermachinery.net/12-5in-planer vs. this Laguna at $599 w/ carbide cutters? https://lagunatools.com/classic/planers/px12/
  3. I've since been told the WEN uses HSS cutter inserts instead of carbide and they're only 2 sided as well. I've seen another version of the 13" WEN sold with a 3 knife head for a little over $300. Wonder if someone makes a replacement carbide cutter head for it? Also, someone suggested this Oliver planer. Any opinions on it? https://olivermachinery.net/12-5in-planer
  4. Is the WEN PL1326 spiral planer comparable to the Dewalt 735 w/ spiral head upgrade? Looking at buying my first planer and I understand the advantage of going with a helix head, but is the DeWalt in this case worth paying more than twice the price, $427 vs over $1K? I've read good reviews about this WEN planer as well as their customer support. WEN PL1326 thickness planer...
  5. Yes thanks wingless I actually ended up turning my hard rake upside down and leveled like you described. Works well. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the floor tonight. Raked it even, sprinkled water, and tamped it all down. Leveled out fairly ok but not as good as I wanted. It's got some shallow spots I'd like to fill it possible. Any suggestion for any kind of floor leveler that would work on a floor like this that's gonna remain damp (with my continued watering) for about the next week as it cures?
  6. I'm trying to even out my dirt/rock garage floor by adding 3-4 in of 1/4" and below limestone fines and mixing/raking in type I / II portland cement into the top 2-3 in. Idea was to use a plate compactor to get it mashed down then sprinkle with water, compact, sprinkle. Well, the small rock mixture with the slippery cement powder doesn't seem to be suitable for a plate compactor as the machine tends to borough down through the substrate spitting it out from the sides, even at it's slowest speed. This is a problem I'm guessing larger rock mixtures don't suffer from. So now I'm left trying to figure out how to get this stuff compacted, I guess by hand? The good news is the rock the machine managed to compact looked fairly good with no gaps. The cement is mixed in thoroughly and fairly deep. Although I'll be watering/misting I'd say gingerly I plan on giving it enough water so it reaches the bottom layers, and keep it damp over the next week as it cures. My only ideas for compacting so far are either a 8x8 hand tamper or possibly a weighted roller? Any suggestions?
  7. I have this barrel top that I'd like to clean up for a project. Wood guy that I got it from said to just use water and a wire brush but I'd like to take better care of it than that. The white specs aren't actually there; photo anomaly or something. What kind of cleaner would go well with a nylon brush to clean things up here?
  8. Eyeing this jointer for sale, auction actually, and I can't tell if it's 6 or 8"; I want to say 8. Also, is it worth buying?...only 3/4 HP motor.
  9. What's the best way to secure 1/2" walls of HDPE together for a wood/resin mold? Drill and tap holes in the edges and use course thread screws?
  10. Whew, tool buying fever. Itchy fingers too. Well, I’ve just learned about duplicating systems and since that’s exactly what my application calls for I better go for that option. I really started to go for the Jet 1221VS but the duplicating systems I’ve seen require the motor be mounted behind or to the left of the spindle and the Jet has it mounted underneath. I was directed to a Grizzly model that has a ‘copy attachment’ included but was advised against it. So far this is the only model I’ve seen where the duplicator comes with. Can anyone suggest a lathe / duplicator combo other than the $370 one at Rockler?
  11. Since my original post I've been advised against the WEN so I'm afraid I'll have to avoid that one. I've just come across this Delta 46-460 lathe at Lowes for $698. I can get the extension and stand on my HD credit and have a 1 HP motor and 42" bed. Quality product? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-21-5-in-x-34-5-in-Variable-Speed-Wood-Lathe/4743323
  12. Thanks for reading. I’ve finally had an idea good enough to sell that I’m in the market for my first lathe. I’ve got about $600 in store credit at both HD and Lowe’s so for now I’m gonna settle for something that’ll get the job done and then upgrade later. Any opinions about this WEN lathe from HD? ... https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-6-Amp-14-in-x-20-in-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Wood-Lathe-34034/306031795
  13. Say you had a 1/2" thick sheet of plexiglass and needed to tap a hole that was drilled beginning on the edge and continuing in 3 in. What type of thread density would you choose, coarse or fine? The strain on the anchor will be fairly minimal.
  14. I'd like to convert a regular sized refrigerator by cutting out the divide between the freezer and fridge compartments so that the whole thing maintains the same temp. Additionally, I'd I'd like to modify it so that it maintains between 50-60 deg F. Only problem is I don't know enough about how fridges work to know if it's possible. Anyone have advice on getting something like this done?
  15. Long story short, I've got some projects coming up where I need to maintain a consistent temp around 45 F for a few days. Only way I know how to do that is in a fridge, or possibly by turning my extra 1/2 bath (small) into a cooler using a window a/c unit. I think most window a/cs now a days have thermostat control and some of them are digital. I'm thinking I'll need one with some kind of non-digital dial type control. Rewire the thermostat to remain a closed circuit so that the a/c cools whenever it gets power. Then put a separate thermostat in-line with the power cord and control the temp that way. Questions are... Anyone see a problem with this setup? I wonder if it would harm an a/c to have ~45 F / 7 C intake air?
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