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Carpenter by trade

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About Carpenter by trade

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  1. Hi LogCabin1998 Sometimes wadded up aluminum foil will clean up rust or tarnish. It also leaves pieces in the shallow depression the rust created to help give a smoother appearance. Might give it a try.
  2. Hi BriBotNC. Looks to be an inclinometer. I've seen them with a bubble in the middle. Evidently this one sits atop a straight level. Are there holes at either end that may have been used to attach it? I agree with winless, a light coat of oil is all I'd put on it. Loosen the thumb screw in the center and slide the middle section around a little to lubricate it's track.
  3. Gilbert, the Chuck is the part that turns and tightens against the drill bit used for drilling holes. If you need to replace just that part tgen you need to loosen the screw inside. Open the jaws, there should have been three, then look down inside the opening between the jaws. You should see a screw head. It many use a Torx, Phillips, or star drive bit to loosen. Most turn clockwise to loosen as opposed to counterclockwise like a normal screw. Hold the chuck firmly which may even require a Channel lock type wrench. Before removing the screw completely, tap it while still holding the chuck, to
  4. Parts 2 and 4 should slide off the shaft of part 22 that the blade goes on. 4 should have a round hole and 2 should have a hole with two flat sides. This holde should mate snug on the shaft of 22 which has two matching flat sides. Part 4 may be missing causing the lockscrew to stop against the end of the shaft of 22. Either 2 or 4 could have been list and domeone tried to use a blade clamp from another B&D or different saw. If 2 has a square hole it definitely doesn't go on your saw. Your link shows both 2 and 4 are available. Hope I helped, even at this late date.
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