TooManyTools

Wondering if anyone out there has ever converted a corded mitre saw to cordless? I’m now kicking myself for not picking up the ryobi 18v x2 10” slider. After seeing pictures of an AEG model overseas I figured a ridgid version was in the pipeline…but I guess not. Now all that’s available are 7-1/4 models. Starting construction on an off grid cabin and a cordless mitre would really come in handy, not to mention letting me also use a shop vac “dust collector” with it in my shed (electrical capacity issues). I think I’ve found a suitable motor, and would be using my 40v ryobi batteries, my sticking point is the gears between the motor and arbor. Without ordering the entire motor/arbor assembly from ridgid, I’m wondering if cutting off and welding the motor side “gear” onto the new motor shaft would handle the torque? If I could find someone to weld it that is. ideally I don’t want to modify the arbor side of the donor saw, to keep any chance of failure on the motor side so the blade can’t come off if something doesn’t work. so…anyone else crazy enough to have tried this? I saw a video of a guy who converted one to gas, so it’s not impossible. thanks

They were all covered under LSA, so I have the replacements, but because the replacements also died (were also covered so 2 more on the way) I know have 4 dead batteries sitting on my shelf that the tinkerer in me can’t let go. Even more so now that I know I can’t get them anymore. On two of them, one of the outer metal tabs broke off so I figured that was it, but I have another with the same issue and it’s working fine. I’m guessing it’s a control board issue. I’ve tried reflowing the solder points, still nothing. Next will be attempting to “jump start” them to get some voltage back, two of the four are almost completely flat. feel free to throw out any suggestions, I can’t make them any more broke!

Anyone have any luck with this? I've got 4 dead ones now, ironically two originals and their two replacements, but I'm told I won't receive octane batteries this time as they're moving to these new "max output" or whatever. However, I LOVE those batteries as they seem to have more power (I read somewhere they use a larger cell, which makes sense). I opened them up just to see if anything was obviously the problem, blown capacitors etc. But I couldn't physically see anything that would indicate a bad component, and my PCB testing knowledge is basic at this point, but if anyone has managed to revive their dead batteries I'd certainly put in the time to learn. Thanks!