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I thought I would start this thread & keep updating it as I go, I really like seeing other peoples projects from start to finish. I also thought since this is my first time doing this alone, i would ask questions here when i get stuck. I live in a 4 bedroom 3 bath house w/ a 2.5 car garage. Only 2 of the 4 walls have drywall (ones touching the inside of the house) & it has bothered me for a while now (I spend a lot of time in the garage). This was a weird project from the start b/c my walls are not OSB or plywood, they are rare for my area & style of house ... solid gypsum board. Took me a while to learn this, I have a thread about the walls a while back on here about it, you can also see the original pics of the garage there too -- http://bit.ly/2bqYi57 So far, i have used foam and caulk in places that there were holes in the gypsum, around the 2x4's where there were gaps, around the receptacles, and a variety of other places I tough air could come thru. I then found a good deal on some R-13 rolls at HD that were bonus rolls w/ extra in them. I have used 2 rolls so far for this wall. looks like it will take about 1 more to finish this one... I have some questions which i will post in the 2nd post here after the pictures below...
Some "shop talk" for my fellow tradesmen, DIYers, and others interested in the important exterior details. Question/Proposition If caulking the bottom edges of lap siding and frieze board is a no-no, shouldn't the same apply to the fascia-to-soffit connection in a wood-constructed eave? Argument/Reasoning I've seen many good painters and builders caulk these areas and it always makes me pause, shake my head, and propose this very argument. In my mind, ventilation and drainage take precedent: the same reason we don't caulk the bottom edges of lap siding. And if moisture build-up and water infiltration can occur behind the gable wall, it certainly can get inside the overhang via roofing failures, gutter overflow, pressure washing, ice dams, etc. (For this same reason, years ago I changed my approach to fascia trim treatment after installs: never caulk the underside of the fascia trim where it overlaps the fascia — gutters or none.) One might say, "If soffit vents are installed, then your eves are getting plenty of ventilation." And I'd reply, "That may solve the ventilation issue, but not the drainage issue." If it's a continuous soffit-vent installed at the fascia-to-soffit joint, and the soffit was installed at a slight angle toward the fascia, then you may have your solution; in which case, this talk about caulking would be irrelevant. But, most homes do not have both (1) continuous soffit-vents at the fascia joint and (2) soffits installed at a slight angle toward the fascia. It may seem a bit trivial, or overkill, to grind out these details, but I've seen way too many cases of wood-rot and mold as a result of poor ventilation and drainage. And it usually stemmed from unnecessary, overzealous caulking and foaming. Now, I understand the "aesthetics" argument for caulking these areas before painting. You don't want the crack to show in case someone looks behind the fascia. But there are alternatives to totally sealing the joint. Solution/Aesthetics-fix If the homeowner decides the soffit-to-fascia joint is unsightly without caulk, then offer to install a tiny quarter-round molding or other tiny trim which would allow for ventilation and drainage. If the homeowner still insists on caulk instead, be sure they know the potential hazards before proceeding. Just. In. Case. And if the joint was already caulked by the previous painter or builder, then inform the homeowner of the potential dangers and preventative options. I certainly haven't covered every possible scenario pertaining to eave maintenance, and I'm well aware that an unsealed soffit-to-fascia joint isn't exactly the end-all in case of a roof leak over the soffit. But I'm confident that I'm technically correct here. If I'm not, then I'd be grateful to anyone who can shed some light on where I may have faltered. Thanks.