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Ok i can really use some advice and here here bad. Just spent about 2 hrs looking over the net and still have not gotten any solid info. I have a 2.5 car garage, but only 2 of the 4 walls are finished (as in they hung drywall, spackled over the nail holes, and taped the seams w/ only 1 coat.) The other 2 walls are not finished at all. All the unfinished garages i see, there is usually plywood behind the studs. I have some weird dark brown sheets that kinda look like drywall. (see the pics below). I think the aluminum siding it nailed right to this brown boards. some spots of it have got bumped and fell off and its like a 1/2" if white hard concrete looking stuff inside. this worries me that there is like no good barrier between the outside world but an old board. do i need to cover it all with plywood or some type of plastic vapor barrier and then start to insulate and drywall?? Also i just noticed that there is a shelf in there that we store pool chairs and umbrellas & stuff. someone must of pushed o the poles to get them up there and they hit the brown board stuff. i looked outside and the aluminum siding is now dented out pretty good. so if i were to hit the brown stuff with a hammer or kick it, it would dent the siding outwards when you go out to look at it. something does not need right to me. i at min need to patch any holes or dents in it as well as tape the seams, b/c a hold means that the only barrier is the siding. I need help. There is Only plywood above the garage doors... I am also confused why they only did about 5" all around the top but not the rest of the wall below As you can see below, I used duct tape to patch a section of the brown board that i saw had started to fall apart and come off the wall, im sure there is a proper way to fix it thou and i want to know before its too late..
Some "shop talk" for my fellow tradesmen, DIYers, and others interested in the important exterior details. Question/Proposition If caulking the bottom edges of lap siding and frieze board is a no-no, shouldn't the same apply to the fascia-to-soffit connection in a wood-constructed eave? Argument/Reasoning I've seen many good painters and builders caulk these areas and it always makes me pause, shake my head, and propose this very argument. In my mind, ventilation and drainage take precedent: the same reason we don't caulk the bottom edges of lap siding. And if moisture build-up and water infiltration can occur behind the gable wall, it certainly can get inside the overhang via roofing failures, gutter overflow, pressure washing, ice dams, etc. (For this same reason, years ago I changed my approach to fascia trim treatment after installs: never caulk the underside of the fascia trim where it overlaps the fascia — gutters or none.) One might say, "If soffit vents are installed, then your eves are getting plenty of ventilation." And I'd reply, "That may solve the ventilation issue, but not the drainage issue." If it's a continuous soffit-vent installed at the fascia-to-soffit joint, and the soffit was installed at a slight angle toward the fascia, then you may have your solution; in which case, this talk about caulking would be irrelevant. But, most homes do not have both (1) continuous soffit-vents at the fascia joint and (2) soffits installed at a slight angle toward the fascia. It may seem a bit trivial, or overkill, to grind out these details, but I've seen way too many cases of wood-rot and mold as a result of poor ventilation and drainage. And it usually stemmed from unnecessary, overzealous caulking and foaming. Now, I understand the "aesthetics" argument for caulking these areas before painting. You don't want the crack to show in case someone looks behind the fascia. But there are alternatives to totally sealing the joint. Solution/Aesthetics-fix If the homeowner decides the soffit-to-fascia joint is unsightly without caulk, then offer to install a tiny quarter-round molding or other tiny trim which would allow for ventilation and drainage. If the homeowner still insists on caulk instead, be sure they know the potential hazards before proceeding. Just. In. Case. And if the joint was already caulked by the previous painter or builder, then inform the homeowner of the potential dangers and preventative options. I certainly haven't covered every possible scenario pertaining to eave maintenance, and I'm well aware that an unsealed soffit-to-fascia joint isn't exactly the end-all in case of a roof leak over the soffit. But I'm confident that I'm technically correct here. If I'm not, then I'd be grateful to anyone who can shed some light on where I may have faltered. Thanks.
Hey everyone! Ibe been wanting to get an organizer for all of my paint and taping supplies. Brushes, rollers, mud pan, exc. I was wondering how the 13" milwaukee job box would work? I'd be nice to be able to stand on it for cutting ceiling and other high work. What do u guys think? Does any one know if it'll fit a normal size roller handle?