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Found 7 results

  1. Hi everyone, I use my Makita Impact Driver/Drill combo set to build sets for theatrical productions. My DC18RC charger stopped working and I’m trying to figure out what to do. I had it in my tool kit and with my coffee thermos, and the thermos leaked, and I think it maybe got water damage. Not sure because the leakage was pretty contained, but the charger hasn’t worked since the leak happened in my toolkit, so Occam’s razor says water damage. I plugged the charger into the wall outlet a couple hours after the leak occurred and The light on the charger did not turn on. I’ve plugged the charger into multiple different working outlets on different days, and the light never turns on when I plug it in. I am not an electrician but do like doing some hobby level electronics. I opened the case of the charger and didn’t see anything blatantly wrong with it to my untrained eyes. Any suggestions on if this could be fixable, if it is water damage, and how I would do that? I see a lot of warnings regarding chargers, so I don’t really wanna risk doing a bad repair job and starting a fire. But I’d love to save it if possible! Thank you!
  2. Hello all, I have been busy looking for a bearing cap, part number 1346017, everywhere. I know it has been discontinued but I am not ready to replace my perfectly good drill press. Does anyone know of a place I could get a new cap? A random warehouse would be great. Thanks for any help
  3. Edgar84

    Dead DJV181

    Hi all boutht a used Makita jigsaw from eBay and it didn't work. The light works and it makes a clicking sound when I try to start it but the motor doesn't make any sound. I disassembled it and tried to make out where the power goes and if there are any broken connections. The wiring is pretty straight forward: three wires goes from the battery into a plate on which the lever to regulate the power is fitted. From the "plate" another three wires goes to the motor (stator?) the part that doesn't move. I guess I should be able to measure the voltage there when the power is turned on? To the plate the wires from the switch are also connected. It's some kind of touch switch. Any my ideas what might be wrong? The battery I tested it with works fine with a power drill. Thanks in advance
  4. I picked up a M18 fuel driver/drill combo and took off the belt clip and extra bit holder. These will fit all M18 drivers and drills. Brand New and never used. If you do not have a Fuel set, you drill did not come with the belt clip and neither your driver or drill came with the bit holder! -- Looking for $8 each. Belt Clip + Screw: Bit Holder:
  5. My Makita LXDT04 lost the ability in the trigger to control the speed so it has an excessive high speed only. It also goes in the wrong direction, right is left and left is right. I have 2 others but it would be nice to have a 3rd. What part do I need to replace? Brush? Trigger? I have no idea.
  6. I have a DeWalt Rotary Laser DW071 that I used only a few hours ten years ago. The item has been in its case ever since. it is in pristine condition. When I went to use it the other day, I found that one vial apparently had leaked and the bubble extends beyond both edges making it unreadable. Hours of searching the Internet has yielded zero results. The manufacturer states that the vials are no longer available. Is there absolutely no source anywhere? I can’t believe that this excellent piece of equipment is junk for lack of a simple replacement vial. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
  7. Hi, Joined this forum to share my repair experience on my 52318 18V cordless jigsaw. Like many others have reported on the web, my saw quit suddenly. I wasn't even sawing anything. I turned it on for a second to check the battery, it was fine. I then tried it again just before cutting and nothing. Dead. Tried 2 other batteries, still dead. Took it apart, removed the motor and found that it was seized. Removed the brushes, pried open the staking on the drive end and pulled out the rotor. With the rotor came both permanent magnets! The glue had totally failed that held the magnets to the frame. Bosch either used the wrong glue, used it improperly, or got a bad batch of glue. Anyway you look at it, a serious Bosch quality control problem for which they should have issued a recall or replaced the motors regardless of age. For a saw of this cost, you don't expect such QC failures. One magnet had a fairly large piece chipped out of its corner. I first glued this back with JB weld. I then glued both magnets back into the frame with a thin layer of JB weld and held them there overnight with spring clamps. Getting the rotor to line up again without rubbing on the magnets was a real chore because of the way the endplates are (not) secured in any sort of alignment and the magnets pull the rotor over onto one or the other of them. Once I got the rotor to turn freely, I re-did the stakes as good as I could, then JB welded the end plate onto the frame. I had to trim the ends of the fan blades to get the rotor back past the magnets once they were glued in. It might be better to remove the NDE plate. I don't use the saw for extended periods, so I don't think the reduced cooling will hurt it. I cleaned up and undercut the commutator while I had the rotor out. The saw now runs as good or better than ever. Alan
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