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Finishing My Garage - Seal, Insulation, Drywall, Paint


olletsocmit

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To the right of the right Window in the below picture there is about a 4' x 9' space. Would it be OK to run drywall vertical in that spot. That way it's just one piece instead of running to horizontal there. My only concern is that if I run it vertical, under the right window the piece I put there will be a butt against a long side which is sloped/angled. I know it's not ideal but is it OK to have a butt and angled side touching. Will it cause and issue when I tape and mud? Or is it just gonna be the same as 2 butts.

On the vertical butts I have, should I be doing anything to curve in the flat butt ends?
a817c29f90c89c9d6d6542fe3827128b.jpg

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If it was 8ft walls I would have said go vertical so you would have not had any but joints. I can tell from the pics that you have 9 or 10ft walls. As for finishing the but joints you just have to work your dud out and feather it wide,10 to 12in's

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If it was 8ft walls I would have said go vertical so you would have not had any but joints. I can tell from the pics that you have 9 or 10ft walls. As for finishing the but joints you just have to work your dud out and feather it wide,10 to 12in's


But is it OK to run the majority of the wall horizontal and then a piece or two vertical or does the entire wall have to go horizontal
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16 minutes ago, olletsocmit said:

I got the sheet rock for free that's why am using eight foots I'm just worried is it OK to run horizontal and vertical on the same wall or not

 You can. Like I said Make it easy on yourself the art is in the finishing.

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at the 1/2" gap at bottom between drywall and concrete.... should i foam from can, run the 1/2" round black foam stuff, just caulk, or something else.  then after that I want to run baseboards at the bottom should i just let the baseboard rest against the concrete or leave a little space also

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I take it that you are talking about backer rod when you say 1/2" round foam stuff. Yes you can do that or the can foam will work. As for the base board set a couple of carpenter pencils on the slab to use as spacers then set your baseboard on top of them to set the gap. Make sure to prime all side of the baseboards then paint  

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On 8/22/2016 at 8:03 PM, olletsocmit said:

 

My posts are being screwy ignore the weird random things above and below..

 

Sometimes this is how you learn if you just start doing stuff on your own!!

If the top and bottom metal tabs touch the drywall, then you're good. You might have to take extra compound to fill in the areas around the boxes on some that got cut too large. Unless you can find larger plates. Good luck!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

On 8/22/2016 at 8:03 PM, olletsocmit said:

 

 

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It's usually at this point in a first-time project I would be sweating the details, so in case you're like me olletsocmit, just wanted to let you know you're doing great, progress is looking awesome. Small mistakes sometimes feel like big ones, but they aren't. You're learning, and next time around will be go even smoother. Looking forward to more pics!

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It's usually at this point in a first-time project I would be sweating the details, so in case you're like me olletsocmit, just wanted to let you know you're doing great, progress is looking awesome. Small mistakes sometimes feel like big ones, but they aren't. You're learning, and next time around will be go even smoother. Looking forward to more pics!

Thanks for the thought and support@Bremon

Yea ur right. I am sure I am definitely worrying about small things that don't matter, but not having much work to compare it to is that reason I think... I will post some more pics tonight. I'm ready to tape now. I cut little "V's" in my butt joints. I have Mesh and paper tape...I know mesh will be faster for me and will eliminate the first layer of joint compound. Am I really going to notice a difference between mesh and paper??

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Yeah forget about making them perfect, it's your first time. Even your first couple times are difficult, if you're really going to get it nice and flat, it's going to take a lot of time and patience. Once you start getting towards where you think you're ready to start sanding, turn the lights off and shine one source of light along a wall, and any shadows will show the uneven drywall. But maybe that's getting too picky, might just focus on making it look "garage" nice!

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Mix set muds are far superior in strength to premix, so anywhere you expect the walls will get contact or banged up I've found it best to stay out of the buckets. Myself I use 45 but I do a lot of drywall and know what to expect and mix in small batches because I know I can get two coats in a day, but if you have time it won't matter switching to 90. 

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Also with bucket muds if you do end up using it, it's a classic mistake even professionals make, but you have to add water and mix with a drill. Don't apply directly out of the bucket or you're going to fight it. 


Wow very interesting that something I didn't know. I think a lot of people don't know that!
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