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phffter

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See that mess is starting to give me some anxiety about my bathroom gut next week! I hadn't planned to tear down our ceiling but I think i am going to now. House was built in 85 and nails used instead of screws. They are popping and I think it would be almost as easy to tear down, replace, and mud than it would be to try and fix it all.

Glad you aren't too far behind schedule.

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window frame is 1 1/2 deeper than the wall.i want that 1 1/2.

how to trim down, without taking window out of walla walla?

circ saw, recip, jig, hammer and sharp chisel? no. tried them all.

luckily, i remembered i have a lancealot chainsaw for a side grinder. took the 4 sides down in 15 minutes.

last mess i will make, yippee

and, why is it, when i need a specific tool, it is ALWAYS in the absolute bottom of a gangbox covered by everything else?

my 'shop' looks akin to a lego disaster by a 5 year old

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keep getting delayed, and distracted. outside wall is insulated, visqueen up.

began installing sleeper studs for wall because of raised height of floor.

knees are hurting, so i think thats it for the night.

putting tools away is becoming a chore, but has to be done so i can find whatever whenever. getting tired of buying shit because i cant find it..

may rough in the water supplies tomorrow, and decide which drain/vent lines to change.

anyone know if it's ok to use a rubber coupling on waste/vent behind a wall? if i can't/shouldn't, that will shorten the list

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major snafu.............. floor is a little out, running down from outside wall to center of house. not that bad, 5/16.

(just rechecked everything) with tub set, top of tub rim is out of level 11/16, meaning the tub itself is out of plumb by 3/8.

fiberglass tub has 6 formed feet, now gotta brainstorm this. going to have to set on a work table, to see what i can adjust, how, and where.

adjust the floor,,,,,,,,,,, downwards............ or trim the feet.

dammit

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On ‎10‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 6:50 AM, phffter said:

shoot a screw near each nail. pop/pry out the nails. saves tearing down the rock.

thought about that but the panel itself looks oike it is peeling plus the edge tape is showing. just going to redo it.

 

on the tub can you not use a bed of mortar?

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On 10/14/2016 at 7:47 PM, rrich1 said:

thought about that but the panel itself looks oike it is peeling plus the edge tape is showing. just going to redo it.

 

on the tub can you not use a bed of mortar?

Yes use a bed of mortar that's how I do all the tubs I set. I first lay down plastic and then mound up mortar in two rows, where the tub will set. You will have a rock solid tub that will not squeak. Hope that makes sense.

Rubber couplings (fernco) is fine to use, and even better is to use a no-hub rubber couplings, Proflex or fernco has their brand of no-hub connectors too. You're referring to using this on the cast iron pipe correct?

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Yes use a bed of mortar that's how I do all the tubs I set. I first lay down plastic and then mound up mortar in two rows, where the tub will set. You will have a rock solid tub that will not squeak. Hope that makes sense.

Rubber couplings (fernco) is fine to use, and even better is to use a no-hub rubber couplings, Proflex or fernco has their brand of no-hub connectors too. You're referring to using this on the cast iron pipe correct?


I just put in a new tub and used the exact method KnarlyCarl explained above and it really is solid as a rock man. I'm very happy with it. Plus it was very easy to adjust and get perfectly level.

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busy at work, kinda putting me further behind.

cannot go 'up' with tub. have to go 'down' to level

there are 6 pvc 'feet' under the tub, hit them with a belt sander. tub is now within 'the bubble'

built the soffit, mounted fart fan.

already made my mind up to use a rubber coupling wth hose clamps, to transition between pvc and steel pipe.

why do you guys use a plastic sheet under the tub mortar?

i am going to use a little to secure it, but, i do not want to raise it.

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worked late again (at work)

not to crowd rrich's thread, filled 35 5 gallon buckets of dust, plaster, and general debris. i wanted to order a 4 wheeled dumpster like you see behind small businesses, not available to general public, it seems. need the ability to push it in the back, so i could use the drive (5 vehicles) (and not alert the permit police). throwing it the trash as we go, boy2 is tossing some in the dumpster at work. local scrapper took the tub, mesh and scrap steel i had.

progress............ cleaning up the mess that fell into the basement. was going to put it off, but the dawgs are tracking the dust upstairs.

installed dur rock on the soffit. laid out the tub valve, wall stud is exactly where tub center now is. debating whether to relocate that stud, or get artistic, trim it for the valve, and add two nailer studs .  i want to minimize more dust.

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On 10/19/2016 at 6:23 PM, phffter said:

busy at work, kinda putting me further behind.

cannot go 'up' with tub. have to go 'down' to level

there are 6 pvc 'feet' under the tub, hit them with a belt sander. tub is now within 'the bubble'

built the soffit, mounted fart fan.

already made my mind up to use a rubber coupling wth hose clamps, to transition between pvc and steel pipe.

why do you guys use a plastic sheet under the tub mortar?

i am going to use a little to secure it, but, i do not want to raise it.

I put plastic before the mortar to prevent moisture from penetrating the subfloor any. 
Also the mortar doesn't raise the tub, you push it down into the mortar to exactly where you want it level, then let it set up so it's perfectly level. It's a super simple process, eliminates any shims and tedious measuring and test fitting and shuffling around etc...

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i understand carl, except for the plastic. wont 'adhere' the tub to the structure.

i didnt use plastic on the tub remod i did last year, - so, i dont think i will use it this time.

working 60+ hours a week, plus getting older, my get up and go kinda left.

anyhoo, today i was able to get at it, im sure rrich is now ahead of me in progress.

demo'ed the waste/vent. reinstall with pvc and rubber couplings. pipe/hang tub valve and shower head. added a couple of nailers near the valve. next time i work with pvc primer, to get ahead, i should just dump a can on the floor, which i did (again).

galvanized steel pipe from '49 was in surprisingly great shape. got to use my new m18 sawzall to whack the vent lines, again, i made a mess in the basement. damn plaster. after cleaning up multiple times, still made a mess.

next step, finish water lines and leak check. then tub goes in permanently.

 

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18 hours ago, phffter said:

i understand carl, except for the plastic. wont 'adhere' the tub to the structure.

i didnt use plastic on the tub remod i did last year, - so, i dont think i will use it this time.

working 60+ hours a week, plus getting older, my get up and go kinda left.

anyhoo, today i was able to get at it, im sure rrich is now ahead of me in progress.

demo'ed the waste/vent. reinstall with pvc and rubber couplings. pipe/hang tub valve and shower head. added a couple of nailers near the valve. next time i work with pvc primer, to get ahead, i should just dump a can on the floor, which i did (again).

galvanized steel pipe from '49 was in surprisingly great shape. got to use my new m18 sawzall to whack the vent lines, again, i made a mess in the basement. damn plaster. after cleaning up multiple times, still made a mess.

next step, finish water lines and leak check. then tub goes in permanently.

 

 

I wouldnt be so quick on that. I have been halted in actual bathroom work. Wife and I work complete opposite schedules with me working seconds plus having 2 kids under 4. Looking great so far! my goal is the tub to be in by the end of the month. 

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another long day at werk. no progress, except cleaning up more damn plaster 'marbles' and dust from using sawzall.

the old medicine cabinet had the slot for old blades, found some, not the usual ones,tiny ones.. and 'found' an old chisel in the wall, last week.

put away tools, general cleanup and organization.

 

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Yeah finding the time is usually the biggest challenge.

I just set a tub, shower valve, etc today at a place the customer is fixing up.

IMG_20161024_085622811

 

..

Was able to get to the back side to set the mortar in that way. It just takes a bit longer if the back isn't open...

IMG_20161024_095139701_HDR

 

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This tub is a PVC from Delta. It's OK, but I prefer the strength of fiberglass. The mortar makes it stupid simple. 

IMG_20161024_100712732

 

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I set the tub before the mortar exactly where I wanted it level and marked the studs and then gently set it down to those marks so there's no guesswork

IMG_20161024_101217004

 

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Ready for drywall

IMG_20161024_172138274

 

..

 

The tub surround is PVC as well and I hated working with it because how flimsy it is compared to fiberglass, plus good surrounds have alignment pegs and this did not and was more of a pain..

 

Looking forward to the outcome of your bathrooms guys!

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busy week, havent had time to do anything, till tonight. tub set, secured, and screwed to studs. small bathroom, stud to stud is 60 3/4'' width. tub is 60. notched the fixture side studs 1/4'' for the tub, had to attach nailer studs to back side, 1'' out. 

as far as setting the tub, discussed this with the in house plumber, 2 carpenters, 3 fitters, 2 electricians, 4 engineers. all agreed on plumbers suggestion, which was NOT to use mortar or construction adhesive. the compound used was 'window' great stuff.

worked real good, tub now has a blanket in it, protecting it by all the tool boxes i threw in there to weigh it down. i also bought a lyons tub, as rrich did.

world series on, in between peeks at the blackhawks game.

i'll finish the plumbing tomorrow, after work.

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