rrich1 Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 1 hour ago, phffter said: busy week, havent had time to do anything, till tonight. tub set, secured, and screwed to studs. small bathroom, stud to stud is 60 3/4'' width. tub is 60. notched the fixture side studs 1/4'' for the tub, had to attach nailer studs to back side, 1'' out. as far as setting the tub, discussed this with the in house plumber, 2 carpenters, 3 fitters, 2 electricians, 4 engineers. all agreed on plumbers suggestion, which was NOT to use mortar or construction adhesive. the compound used was 'window' great stuff. worked real good, tub now has a blanket in it, protecting it by all the tool boxes i threw in there to weigh it down. i also bought a lyons tub, as rrich did. world series on, in between peeks at the blackhawks game. i'll finish the plumbing tomorrow, after work. im surprised that no one recommend either mortar or adhesive. even the directions from lyons states to use either or for installation. I had read that the window great stuff wasn't proper to use as it put pressure onto the tub when it expanded rather than just filling the empty area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 Yeah, interesting on the great stuff foam use. I still have to trust what I know to work very well and will continue to because there are some tubs with funky bottoms with supporting pieces side by side and could get expanded a little and I don't want any extra drama in my life... still standing by the mortar on plastic method. if it turns out well, that's great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 Yeah, interesting on the great stuff foam use. I still have to trust what I know to work very well and will continue to because there are some tubs with funky bottoms with supporting pieces side by side and could get expanded a little and I don't want any extra drama in my life... still standing by the mortar on plastic method. if it turns out well, that's great! For what it's worth, our 1 piece original showers had/have foam under them. House was built in 85. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 5 hours ago, rrich1 said: For what it's worth, our 1 piece original showers had/have foam under them. House was built in 85. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk You would need access behind the tub yes? To put the foam under once the tub is set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 You would need access behind the tub yes? To put the foam under once the tub is set? I would assume. I could still do it in my bath if I wanted. I have left the right wall without drywall right now due to it being easier to access both sides to build the niche. I would squeeze in and spray foam in.Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted October 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 12 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said: You would need access behind the tub yes? To put the foam under once the tub is set? plop it done after squirting the foam. have the tub nearly in position, up on blocks, use 1/4 poly tubing to extend the nozzle. the 6'' supplied nozzle aint long enuff. 10 hours at work today, and, drain and water done. have to redo tub drain, chinese supplied rubber gasket leaks. mebbe a pic tomorrow world series on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 plop it done after squirting the foam. have the tub nearly in position, up on blocks, use 1/4 poly tubing to extend the nozzle. the 6'' supplied nozzle aint long enuff. 10 hours at work today, and, drain and water done. have to redo tub drain, chinese supplied rubber gasket leaks. mebbe a pic tomorrow world series onDid you use any plumbers putty above the tub to the drain? My kit didn't say to use it but it leaks without it. Try that first and I bet you will be fine. Did you buy the Lyons linear tub? That was the one we got. Had to get an6"extension tube as well. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted October 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 5 minutes ago, rrich1 said: Did you use any plumbers putty above the tub to the drain? My kit didn't say to use it but it leaks without it. Try that first and I bet you will be fine. Did you buy the Lyons linear tub? That was the one we got. Had to get an6"extension tube as well. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk used whatever drain assembly menards had that fit. plumbers putty under the drain, inside the tub. seems the rubber gasket, under the tub is leaking. i put it in dry, going to put some vacuum grease on it tomorrow. bought the tub from menards also.i forget which model, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 29 minutes ago, phffter said: used whatever drain assembly menards had that fit. plumbers putty under the drain, inside the tub. seems the rubber gasket, under the tub is leaking. i put it in dry, going to put some vacuum grease on it tomorrow. bought the tub from menards also.i forget which model, I always use silicon, got tired of plumbers putty causing issues where I know I could count on caulk. Haven't touched the putty for 5 years by now I think. I've moved on. Also apply thread sealant to the tub drain piece threads where it threads into the bottom side piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 plumbing done. thanks carl, used your suggestion, silicone and dope. and vacuum grease on the rubber. walls shimmed out as needed, eliminated two jointed corners by building out the entire non plumbing wall. added blocking to support wall hangers. added blocking, for where im going to transition between cement board and greenboard, to hide that 'seam' under tile. need to finish hanging plastic in the shower/tub area, and then time to rock. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 Is the plastic meant to be a vapor barrier? If so you're not planning to waterproof the cement board are you?Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 made large strides today. cut/installed all the dur rock in tub stall. installed bottom course of green board on both walls. yanked the crapper, installed the floor tile. got half down, and noticed it was the wrong color. awaiting mortar to set up, so i can close that window, which i see will be a 'of' to finish. btw, used a new bosch 7'' wet saw blade, bought at cripe, in my hf beam wet saw. blade was exceptional. the hf ones i originally used, chipped tiles. pics to come later. also................ thought that by tearing out the plaster and installing 1/2 rock, i could squeeze a bigger vanity (24'') in. nope. still too tight. a 21 would have kinda worked, but very special order. special ordered 18'' vanity and top. you do not want to know the $ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 good to hear. I know the woes of a vanity and top price. I am building my vanity but ordered the cultured marble top. I priced out lowes, hd, and menards. I was able to get it from shrocks for half the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 schrock makes nice cabinets. ours is a schrock. 4 weeks away. top is 4 weeks away i can make the vanity, just aint got the time, or, with the coming winter, the room to run a table saw. (coronet is taking up a bay) grouted floor, wiped glaze 2x. crapper gets reinstalled tomorrow. may reinstall old vanity/sink/faucet temporarily. i guess, the next thing to tackle would be ripping out the door frame, and fit new jamb boards in. exist trim is pine, pine door latch area busted. installing oak jams and a 6 panel door.. need to get the oak trim up, before i can tile (up to them). cant tile walls till i get vanity i might be able to tile tub area. still have 2 partial sheets of greenboard to hang also 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 i aint forgot about the job. been catching up on battening down the hatches for the rapidly approaching winter, in addition to still working o/t. leaf blower bought. neighbors leaves blown (i shoulda blew them back into his yard where they came from), coupla lights replaced in carage. reused electric roof heaters, ran thru gutters and downspouts. (originally some was on roof, just had roof redone). gazebo fabric and screens stowed. coronet stored. shit in shed and carage moved around for the seasons. still gotta check snow blower! anyways. floor done. drywall/dur rock done. electric done. medicine cabinet hung, and rehung to make placement more better. the exposed raw corners taped and mudded, 2nd coat. walla walla marked as to where the accent tile lines will go. old door jamb still in. you guys know what it looks like, so no pics. finishing that window still seems like a pia. i hope i can cut 3/4'' wide pieces of 'fill' tile. used a 'new' screw for the cement board. wide countersunk #2 square drive head. they seem ok, except whatever process the chinese use to coat them, seems to fill the drive hole on every second screw i pick up. especially when trying to sink a screw while holding a panel, a third hand would be really nice. wound up using a drywall screw for the 1st couple of fasteners per panel. these i will take a pic of, and i will not recommend them for their intended use. . these https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/drywall/screws/cement-board-screws/rock-on-9-x-1-5-8-cement-board-screws-150-count/p-1450446952122-c-12989.htm?tid=2346506456307992561 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 and i did find time to buy some new tools. a dewalt die grinder from amazon, and a knipex branded jerman made 5 piece screw extractor set from tool topia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 Really got a lot on your plate! Thanks for warning us about the screws, that's pretty bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 I think you are going to beat me! I used those same screws and didn't have any issues. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 i dumped out a large handful, as seen in the background, in front of the box. i easily found 8 screws that had too much 'goop' on them.i attempted to clear out the stuff, was able to do so on 4. the others got tossed. and, the wall tile with the accent. the mrs picked them out. im color blind, she assures me they'll look great. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 going to cut the accent tile down into 3 tile widths. and have a double band. seperated by 1 course of grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMG Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Back in 84 I had a boss that was color blind. He told a story about how he had gone down to the local paint store and picked out a nice soft green for his bedroom walls. He was just finishing up the second wall when behind him he hears his sister exclaim, "Oh my GAWD, what the @#%^ are you doing". He turned around and said to her, "It's not green is it". She in turn responded, "It's Hot PINK!!". He said that was the last time he tried to pick a color on his own. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 That should look good. It is very close to what we are doing actually! I'll post up a pic in my thread here in a bit. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 just pharting around, had my 'device' replaced thursday. resanding, recoating over the past few days. the premixed mud is taking forever to dry. started looking for the (i know i have 2 partial bags) of '20' compound. can't find, and i aint gonna buy a 3rd bag to misplace. found a small amount of '5' compound. turns out it's more like 5 HOURS!. got it primered, and found alot of imperfection. flat paint hides alot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phffter Posted November 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 been hashing out in my mind the next step. chest is still sore from vfd upgrade. built a visqueen cocoon around the wetsaw in the basement to keep the mess down, and started with the tile. been awake many a night figuring where the lines all go, to even all them out. aint got the vanity, that's the starting point. started at the far end of the tub, used my laser level for a line, worked my way around. the first course, up, around, and down, took too long. whole tiles, go up as fast as possum shit. stopped when i ran out of mixed mortar, and my knees were complaining. hole sawed the tile for the tub valve, cut a bunch of little guy trim pieces. whaddya think of her color choices? there will be a second accent line, above the tile over the 1st accent, all the way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrich1 Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Colors look good. Any reason why you didnt tape the seams and mortar them before tiling? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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