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Ryobi battery riding lawn mower


KnarlyCarl

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On 6/7/2020 at 8:37 AM, PaulNY said:

Hello, 

 

I have a Ryobi ZT480e that I bought last year. It s a fantastic mower and well worth the price. In the first year I more than paid for it in comparison to what I paid a landscaping company the year before.

 

Almost from the beginning I have had an issue with the battery. Note: I fully charged it before I used it the first time. I mow once a week and keep the mower plugged in whenever it is not in use. When I get ready to mow, I check the battery level. Since it has been charging all week, it should be at 100%. This isn't the case. The battery will show 70% charge. I discovered if I unplugged it. waited a minute, and then plugged it back in for 10 minutes the battery would then show 100% charge. I called Ryobi about the problem, but their response was that it shouldn't be happening and the representative I spoke with did not believe me. She stated they had never heard of the problem before.

 

I mow roughly  3 1/2-4 acres. I have to do it with two charges. I will mow in the morning. Plug in the mower for a few hours and then mow in the afternoon. I have been using the battery down to 10% on the morning mow (I now realize I should not do this as I read the article from mycountryacre.com about not taking the battery down to less than 20%).

 

Anyone else have a similar issue with the batteries or have suggestions? Thanks for your input. 

Hey PaulNY! I'm having the same issue with the 70%. I found my way hear searching if this was an issue anyone else was having. I haven't tried calling Ryobi yet.

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On 8/29/2020 at 10:53 PM, soonerjim said:

Hey PaulNY! I'm having the same issue with the 70%. I found my way hear searching if this was an issue anyone else was having. I haven't tried calling Ryobi yet.

The instrumentation on the Ryobi’s is known to be variably inaccurate. The ZT480s have been described by many as not reporting the charge % accurately. Some users have even had the meters replaced under warranty with no improvement.  Based on my experience and from working with Ryobi support, the first thing I would do is fully charge the battery pack to when the charging lights on the charger and the mower glow steady green.  Then measure the pack voltage at the bottom two contacts of the charging port.  Voltage should be 51 - 52 volts.  Then turn the key on and turn on the headlights.  Now measure the voltage again.  If it has dropped a lot (the system shuts down when the voltage drops below 36 volts), you likely have a weak or failed battery (I.e. won’t sustain a load).  Ryobi’s procedure is to fully charge all four batteries and put a load test on each to determine if one or more have failed. Many people have replaced all four batteries because they didn’t test them individually. I took mine to a local battery shop for load testing and they found one to be failing. After replacement, the mower runs better than when new.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, All:

 

Commenting on several points presented in related posts:

1. I see the same 70% charge on my Ryobi mower if leaving it on the charger for more than 48 hours. If simply charged overnight, it displays 100%. 

2. Regardless of what the display indicates (70% or 100%), I seldom get more than 45 minutes of run-time from it. Sometimes I might get an hour from a "100%" charge, depending on how tall the grass is. 

3. Regarding replacement batteries, I did try replacing the OEM batteries with LiFePO4. A four-pack of those would work great and provide extended run-time, but the mower's controller won't let the machine start with voltage exceeding 52.5V. The LFP battery pack reaches 54.5 after a full charge, but that exceeds the controller specifications and it won't turn on. Similarly, the controller is tuned to turn off the blades at 48v and allow enough remaining power to get the mower back to the barn. However with LFP batteries the controller shuts down the blades AND the drive motors simultaneously. 

4. I get the 'wheel-squeak' that someone posted in a different thread; first from the left-rear (a few months ago) and now from both. I'm not aware of any way to grease or diagnose those drive motors, but I suspect some fault or wear condition is contributing to the very low runtime. 

 

Thanks!

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USMC Mustang:  Great reply and I have a couple of questions if I may. 

Item #2:  The reduced run time seems to be the most common complaint for the ZT480s.  Have you done the Ryobi recommended battery test of load testing each battery individually?  I was experiencing increased Battery Level Meter bars out on my RM480 in the first year of use.  Ryobi had me individually charge each battery and then load test them (took them to a local battery shop for the test). One didn't past muster and was replaced.  Mower ran (and still runs) better than new. 

Item#3:  I'm extremely interested in the lithium batteries you used.  I've heard several people wanting to try the change, but you are the first I've heard of to do so.  What make, model, voltage, ahr, etc.  I have seen my OEM pack at 52.2 volts immediately after completing a charge, and it ran fine.  Ryobi also told me the system shuts down completely when the pack voltage drops below 36 volts, but I'm not sure how the system is really measuring things as the BLM does not read reliably by volts, so the controllers must be measuring something in addition.  The system is supposed to shut the blade motors off with enough charge to let you drive back to the charger.  I run with a separate volt meter plugged into the charging port so I can see dynamically the charge being used.  I would guess the lithium chemistry behaves differently enough to "fool" the electronics that are designed for the SLA/AGM chemistry.  How did you charge the lithium batteries?  With the Ryobi charger and onboard controller, or a separate charger?

Item #4:  First I've heard of the squeaky rear bearings on a ZT480, best advice is to call Ryobi at the toll free number on the label under the seat with the model number, serial number, and manufacturer number from the label also.  I wonder if it's the brakes?

IMG_0068.JPG

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  • 3 months later...
On 3/19/2020 at 11:58 PM, jamis said:

Sorry for the late reply, but the snow plow is back in stock at HD for $329 and free shipping.  The manufacturer made a change to the plow lift handle to make it easier to raise/lower the blade without having to get up off of the seat and stopping the unit.   Don't know about moving dirt, but it should work with loose dirt.  I wouldn't use it like a bull dozer to break compacted ground. 

Thanks for the reply. I did get one from Niagara Falls N.Y. soon after I made the inquiry here. At the time there were some available in the U.S., so I order it through Home Depot online, drove across the border to pick it up, paid the Canadian taxes and after currency conversion it is cheaper than buying it from Home Depot Canada. The snow plow works really well, and I highly recommend it.

 

I also run into the battery charging problem, in that I not knowingly let the voltage drop too low (the outlet I plugged it into had no power) and the charger just wouldn't charge it. I took the battery out and charged them one by one and put them back in, and it all fine now.

 

I have another issue now and I wonder if anybody has any suggestion. The right hand side cutter motor would cut out whenever the grass is a little too thick (not very thick, just a little thick), but the left side is fine. The motor looks fine physically, inside and out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

LX8: if the grass being cut is rather tall, there can be build up under the deck and cause the right blade to stall.  Rather easy to do if you are mulch mowing.  If you pay attention to the motor noise, you can hear the motor change pitch due to the loading. 

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  • 1 month later...

At some point over the winter the gfci I have this plugged in to tripped and the charger stopped charging allowing the batteries to die. I just reset the gfci (outlet is definitely working) but the light on the charger isn't going on, neither is the light by the charge port on the mower.

 

Has the charger somehow failed by not having power? It was working fine 3 months ago, I have no idea when the gfci tripped, but long enough ago for the batteries to completely drain.

 

Is there some way to reset the charger? I've had it less than a year, if the charger is the problem (it's possible the charger is what caused the gfci to trip, although I don't know why it would after it being used fine for 6 months) will it be replaced under warranty?

 

Thanks for any help you can offer

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Sorry for the late reply, but I don't visit here often.  The charger won't charge if the battery pack has dropped below 36 volts.  Ryobi's troubleshooting process is to disconnect the battery wiring and individually charge the batteries with an automotive style charger, reconnect the battery wiring, and try the charge process.  If the batteries still won't charge with the automotive charger, the batteries may be toast as SLA/AGM batteries don't take well to being completely discharged.  A Load test of the batteries by a battery shop will confirm the state of the batteries.  A call to Ryobi support should be done.

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The 50 ahr model can only have those batteries due to the design of the battery compartment.  The 75 ahr and 100 ahr models (both rear engine and zero turn versions) have identical battery trays and can be upgraded to the larger batteries.  The 100 ahr batteries are physically larger than the 75 ahr batteries, but there are movable and removable spacers in the tray to accommodate the different sized batteries.  Be aware the batteries should last for 1,500 - 1,700 charge cycles, so you might want to consider spending the extra $200 up front to get the longer run time.

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Google "Leoch LPC12-100 battery".  I have found some online from battery supply shops.  Leoch has a new line out. The LDC12- models are direct replacements for the LPC12- models and are in the same case sizes.  The difference is the LDC12- models have longer life spans.  In the Ryobi mowers, the LPC12- batteries should deliver 1,500 - 1,700 charges, while the LDC12- models are good for over 2,000 charges.  Have you done the Ryobi battery test yet? You remove the batteries from the mower, disconnect the wiring, individually charge the batteries with an automotive charger, and load test each battery.  I took mine to a local battery shop for the load test.  Only one battery needed replacement and the mower ran better than when it was new.

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Hey everyone. Long story short, I bought my zero turn last year. The very first time I took it out, the back right wheel locked up. I looked up video on how to fix this, but being that we use electric vs gas, none of the issues I found were similar to mine. I called HD and Ryobi, and neither knew what to do. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for the help! 

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wait a minute? Ryobi had no help for a product under warranty?  Call back and ask for an electric rider specialist.  Have your model number, manufacturer number, and serial number from the label under the seat available.  Can you push the mower by hand or is it completely locked up?  Does everything else work, headlights, mowing blades, the high/low speed button?

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I haven't found any reported issues like this.  I'm going to suggest some SWAGs to try, but no assurances. 

1.  Try disconnecting the master fuseable link under the seat that connects the battery pack to the mower for a minute.  The plug it back in.

2. If all other things work, make sure the parking brake is fully released. 

3. The right control lever mechanism and wiring should be inspected for broken or frayed wiring.  This may require assistance from Ryobi.

4. Can you rock the mower forwards and backwards to see if it frees up the stuck drive?  I know of one user who had an issue like this and his mower went off to a service center, but he never updated any resolution.

5. Again, does changing the low speed drive button have any effect?

6.  Can you check the battery pack voltage at the master plug?  It should be above 50 volts.  Voltage should be around 52 volts when the charging cycle is complete.  The system will run until the pack voltage drops to 36 volts and then the system shuts down to protect the SLA/AGM batteries.

7.  In any event, call Ryobi at the number listed on the under seat label and don't take "I don't know" for an answer. 

8.  One last suggestion, go to the HD web page for your mower and open a new question with your problem.  You might get an answer from another owner and the Ryobi rep there may respond also.

Hope this helps

 

 

 

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Early on with my RM480e, the charger was displaying a low voltage code.  My call to Ryobi customer service was immediately diagnosed as a failed charger.  A new charger was overnighted to me.  It displayed the same low voltage error. A second call to Ryobi support finally got me connected to a riding mower specialist.  Turned out my original charger was fine, the replacement charger was the wrong one and should never be used with my model mower.  The problem turned out to be a failing battery, but Ryobi's first line of support was not able to properly diagnose my problem.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello,

2019 bought Ryobi 480e, 1.5 years use, 1/4 acre, stored in basement all winter plugged in except when power would go out, poor infrastructure,  When tried to start last week, it Would not start, no reaction when turning the key, charger light and mower charge port not blinking, one battery would only charge up to about 6V using standard 12V charger after unhooking all batteries. Other three charge over 11V  Installed new battery same specs except 80 amp instead of original 75 amp, strict compliance with utube instructor, well versed and competent.

After install, hooked up all connections plugged into factory charger, light  on charger and mower blinking, turn key nothing.....no head lights no buzzer when off seat, nothing. Key no noise click when turning, no resistance, just smooth going from aux to off to on.  Last year I had bent the key a little getting off the mower, but didn't seem to matter at the time, continued use for the summer.

 Please help if you can.

Thanks, 

Phillip

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Ryobi specifies using only the Leoch LPC12-75 batteries in these mowers.  The charger is  specially set up Delta-Q SC-48 charger for these batteries. What was the blink code the charger was displaying?  The mower will not run if the charger is plugged in.  The system will not run if the battery pack voltage is less than 36 volts.  The batteries should charge to 13.2 volts max. when properly charges.  The pack voltage of my 33 month mower is usually 52.4 volts right after charging.  Call Ryobi for help.  The mower is warranted for 3 years even if the batteries are only warranted for a year. 

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I also had an issue with the outlet losing power over the winter and am in the process of doing the recommended recharge of the batteries individually. As they finish charging, I'm trying to test them with a Foxwell battery analyzer. Does anyone know what the Cold Cranking Amps or Resistance should be? I am seeing 330 CCA and 7.74 MR.

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jefe:  how long was the power out?  Long enough to drop the pack voltage below 36 volts? The Ryobi system will not charge the pack if it falls below 36 volts.  Leoch states these batteries can self discharge for up to six months before needing a maintenance charge.  What is the individual battery voltage right off the charger? Should be at least 13.2 volts by my experience.  Which LPC12 battery, 75 ahr or 100 ahr?  Leoch doesn't state CCAs. Google "leoch lpc12-75.pdf" or "leoch lpc12-100.pdf" to see their data sheet.  Ryobi only advised me to load test them, which I did by taking them to a local battery shop.  They tested all four of them for free.

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Thanks Jamis. I have the 75 ahr batteries. I'm not sure when it lost power, but probably was out for a month or two. When I unhooked them and pulled the tray out, each one was at about 6 volts so definitely was below 36 volts. I've individually charged them and they are all back up around 13 volts. I did find the leoch data sheets online and wasn't able to glean anything useful to use as a standard in my at home tester. Guess I'll have to take them to a battery shop. 

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A load test is definitely in order, just to see if any were damaged.  I had one battery fail at 11 months and it wouldn't support any sort of load, even though it would take a charge albeit very slowly compared to the others.  The Ryobi charger would not charge the pack and displayed a low voltage error (2 red blinks on the charger LED).  The replacement battery made the mower run better than new which told  me the failed battery was weak from the first run.  Good luck 

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On 7/29/2020 at 7:15 PM, jamis said:

The instrumentation on the ZT480s (and the RM480s) has been reported by many to be inaccurate and misleading.  The Battery Level Meter on my mower is erratic in its reporting and the hour meter is off by 6%. The hour meter even reset itself to zero last summer.  I do some extra steps to monitor the battery performance so I know how healthy the pack is.

1. I measure the pack voltage before and after mowing. I use a volt meter to read the voltage at the charging port.

2. I bought a $30 recording watt meter to measure how much it takes to recharge the pack each time the charger does a charge.  
3. May be extreme, but I put this all into a spreadsheet to track usage trends.

Ryobi’s battery check method is to pull the batteries, disconnect all pack wiring, charge each battery individually with a separate charger, and load test each.  I took mine to a local battery shop for the testing.

Boost charging is NOT recommended for SLA batteries as it can promote sulfication in the cells and shorten battery life. Always fully charge the pack when you charge the mower.  Reduced run time is usually due to one of the four batteries having a weak cell.  Eventually, the battery will fail entirely and the system will then refuse to charge the pack.  The electronics limit battery drain down to 36 volts to prolong the life span of the pack.

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How do you check voltage from the charging port? It looks like you made a custom cable... but can you do this with just a multimeter? (And where did you get that spare connector from?!?) If so, which pins do you use on the charging port?

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17 hours ago, Kage825 said:

How do you check voltage from the charging port? It looks like you made a custom cable... but can you do this with just a multimeter? (And where did you get that spare connector from?!?) If so, which pins do you use on the charging port?

The bottom two contacts are the + & - of the system.  The top contact is the battery temperature lead to the charger.  I used a multimeter for quite some time. The spare charger plug is from a charger Ryobi sent me when I had a failing battery.  The first support person I talked to said it was a bad charger with no troubleshooting.  The charger they sent me was the wrong  p/n and I was told not to use it, and not to return it either.  The plug and cord were then available to use with the voltmeter.

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