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Baseboard Project


T75R

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What's up gents! Sorry about being gone for so long. Been crazy busy at work. Hope all is well!

 

I'm actually going to be starting to put in baseboard molding in for my sister soon and was wondering if anyone has had any experience or advice?  I figured I'd start here since all the talent is on this forum ?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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All the baseboard I have done over the years I have mitered.

 

But a good friend of mine trimmed my new house and he is THE master. He specializes in home show homes.

 

Anyway, when he did my house all the baseboard joints were coped and then glued. The fit is amazing. Its not as hard as you would think as you still cut the miter to make your cope line and then cope along it and cleanup with a rasp as needed.

 

Now there are 1000 variations of that to remove the pull of the wood but these guys made that cope by hand.

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On 2/3/2017 at 1:08 PM, T75R said:

What's up gents! Sorry about being gone for so long. Been crazy busy at work. Hope all is well!

 

I'm actually going to be starting to put in baseboard molding in for my sister soon and was wondering if anyone has had any experience or advice?  I figured I'd start here since all the talent is on this forum ?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

we cope all inside corners, unless its square stock only,,.inside corners are rarely 90 degrees, especially after receiving tape and joint compound, you will have less chance of seeing sheetrock behind joint after wood shrinks.

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Cope cuts were how I learned to trim as well. I have watched so many crews in too big of a hurry leaving less than satisfactory results over the years when they do nothing but miter cut the inside corners. On one house I was building the cabinets for I watched the painters use more than a case of caulk after one group finished their trim. You can only shake your head so much before the headache sets in.

 

On long runs that don't need a splice, I will cut the piece approximately 1mm longer than needed. When you get it right, the length of trim will bow out from the wall about six inches in the center, and will snap into place when pressure is applied, making for super tight corner joints and fewer nail holes overall.

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I cut my copes when necessary on my miter saw. Everyone down here uses simple basic baseboards so not hard crazy profiles to deal with. 

 

I found this guy that does the same thing: 

 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/trim-carpentry/how-to-cope-baseboard-trim-with-a-miter-saw/view-all

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1 hour ago, Hugh Jass said:

I cut my copes when necessary on my miter saw. Everyone down here uses simple basic baseboards so not hard crazy profiles to deal with. 

 

I found this guy that does the same thing: 

 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/trim-carpentry/how-to-cope-baseboard-trim-with-a-miter-saw/view-all

Cool video, thanks

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 the original painted over baseboard looked shabby. to get new baseboard to overlap a 50 year old paint line, and to keep down cost, and to get an even line with varying floors, i ripped 1/2 '' oak veneer board to size, capped it with trim moulding, and 1/4 round.

i like the look of wood.

 

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22 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:

I cut my copes when necessary on my miter saw. Everyone down here uses simple basic baseboards so not hard crazy profiles to deal with. 

 

I found this guy that does the same thing: 

 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/trim-carpentry/how-to-cope-baseboard-trim-with-a-miter-saw/view-all

Wow I've never seen that done before! Looks like a great way to cope. Thanks guys! I appreciate all the advice 

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On 2/3/2017 at 0:08 PM, T75R said:

What's up gents! Sorry about being gone for so long. Been crazy busy at work. Hope all is well!

 

I'm actually going to be starting to put in baseboard molding in for my sister soon and was wondering if anyone has had any experience or advice?  I figured I'd start here since all the talent is on this forum ?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

make sure the saw is square and make sure 45's are actually 45. I would check your blade to see if it would be a good option for trim work. Somthing that is good at both ripping and crosscuts should be plenty. If the miters have a small gap it may be because the back edge is hitting before the front edge. In this case you may want to place your pencil or a scap piece of trim underneath the piece your cutting to give it a slight bevel to make the front edge hit before the back edge.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Adding another question to this project, when putting the baseboard in, what type of nailer should be used? 16 ga 18 ga? I'm thinking of getting the dewalt 16 ga finish nailer. Would that work or should I get the bostitch kit that includes an air compressor with both 18 and 16 ga

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I used 16 gauge throughout my house.

Cope all the inside corners using the miter saw for 45° miters then cutting with coping saw or scroll saw, depending on the length of the piece. I to like the look of wood so I use oak, with just clear coats of lacquer

And like @rrmccabe said, smaller gauge nails on corners or thinner parts of the base

 

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I scored a deal on some baseboard and window moulding, for about $.90 a foot and I took all they had, close to 800' 

Then had a shop clear it all with couple coats of lacquer.... I still have some left to do in the house but I'm actually running out! 

 

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A few suggestions- 

 

avoid using a thin kerf blade. In my experience they can wobble and all of a sudden your perfectly cut miter is a little open and filling them never looks good. 

 

When nailing inside corners I tend to not nail right in the corner. If there's a hollow or any undulations in the wall, nailing right in the corner can draw your piece of baseboard in and once again you'll have a gap 

18 gauge is nice to use vs a 16 because the smaller diameter nail leaves a smaller hole which is much easier to hide. 

 

Good luck and be sure to show off your work when it's done!

 

cheers

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On 2/25/2017 at 1:22 AM, T75R said:

Wow. Running out of that much is impressive 

 

Oh man yeah when I bought this house they had some places in different parts of renovation and had literally zero trim installed including around doors and windows.

That reminds me, maybe I'll put a post up about some trim progress over in my thread 

 

On 2/25/2017 at 9:41 AM, mike_dave said:

A few suggestions- 

 

avoid using a thin kerf blade. In my experience they can wobble and all of a sudden your perfectly cut miter is a little open and filling them never looks good. 

 

When nailing inside corners I tend to not nail right in the corner. If there's a hollow or any undulations in the wall, nailing right in the corner can draw your piece of baseboard in and once again you'll have a gap 

18 gauge is nice to use vs a 16 because the smaller diameter nail leaves a smaller hole which is much easier to hide. 

 

Good luck and be sure to show off your work when it's done!

 

cheers

Good tips!!

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/5/2017 at 11:27 AM, JMG said:

. On one house I was building the cabinets for I watched the painters use more than a case of caulk after one group finished their trim. You can only shake your head so much before the headache sets in.

 

 

Whats that saying  caulk and paint make me the carpenter I ain't.

 

I cope all my joints. I use the Collins coping foot on my jig saw

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