wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

[wingless]

My recent purchase of a used Ryobi RTS10G 10" table saw left me disappointed with that tool. I really liked the features, portability, new condition and complete set of accessories, but I was disappointed w/ the bed not being flat, so I sold that tool and purchased this Ridgid saw as my replacement.

 

The Ridgid R4511 granite top 10" table saw is a very nice tool. These were sold for a very short time at Home Depot in early 2009. Mine is a very nice example that I purchased used.

 

The 1-3/4" thick granite top is a terrific feature. The top has three sections, there is a center part, plus two side wings. The tool includes a pair of heavy-duty support rails embedded into both sides of the top to hold each side wing, that also include adjustment set screws to get the side wings flush and coplanar to the center panel. My experience was that setup was straightforward, taking a reasonable amount of time, now when I slide a sharp corner block across the seams there isn't any edge felt, plus a straight edge across the surfaces show them to be coplanar.

 

The granite is very smooth and slippery, making usage terrific.

 

Everything about this tool is heavy duty. The tool mass is well north of 400 lbs. The granite top is the obvious weight contributor. Looking "behind the curtains" reveals that the mechanism is made of large machined cast iron sections. That construction contributes to the mass, strength and stability of the tool.

 

The rip fence is great, with sturdy / large front + rear mounts, hook the rear tab under the rear angle iron, then lower the front onto the two-piece front box rail. The sliding miter gauge has a large / sturdy surface for pushing the part and stops at 90°, ±45°, with fine-tune adjustment screws for each.

 

The large 3,450 rpm, 1½hp TEFC induction motor may be wired for 120VAC / 13A or 240VAC / 6.7A. The 5/8" arbor blade is belt-driven from the motor. 

 

The saw has 3-1/8" at 90° cut depth and 2¼" at 45° cut depth capacities. The rip capacity is 30" to right of blade and 20" to left of blade.

 

One thing I found very surprising was the low / quiet noise from operating the saw. All my experience w/ portable direct-drive table saws were loud, this is quiet.

 

Setting up for ultimate accuracy is "easy".

• When I got the saw, the sliding miter gauge slots were almost perfectly parallel to the blade. I loosened the top, slightly rotated, then tightened, now it's perfect.
• The 90° and 45° blade angle stops were almost exactly set correctly. When I went to adjust one set screw, it wouldn't budge. I eventually removed the cylindrical steel threaded insert from the granite top to discover that there was an excessive amount of thread locker applied to the screw, causing it to bind. The insert was super glued back in-place, the thread locker cleaned and now all is good again.
• The sliding miter gauge has side-to-side set screws that get a terrific fit in the bed slots. After a small amount of tweaking this now slides the entire length w/ no slop.

 

There is a voluntary CPSC recall on the early serial number saws because the motor shaft would fail when using a dado blade. Mine is a later serial number that isn't affected.

 

https://cdn2.ridgid.com/resources/media?countrycode=US&key=7cccef80-9c77-460f-86c2-3c972aac5d9e&languagecode=en&type=document

 

The tool has an integrated dust extraction plenum w/ a 4" suction port.

 

The tool has a Herc-U-Lift caster system for easy caster deployment for single-person tool movement, followed by easy caster retraction for returning to tool foot support.

 

My tool includes a nice custom-made oak zero-clearance throat plate blade insert, a custom-made low-profile riving knife and ½" thick Delrin panels added onto both sides of the rip fence. My tool also has a nice custom-made side shelf, that is handy to hold the rip fence. The rip fence doesn't fit into the OEM side support brackets because the ½" Delrin side panels were attached. My tool has the 2.3mm (0.090") riving knife w/ spring-loaded anti kickback pawls, but is missing the clear plastic blade guard. That missing / discontinued part is not available to purchase.

 

 

 

 

Granite Joints Prior to Adjustment

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ChrisK]

I remember Matt Vanderlist getting a granite topped saw from another manufacturer Steel City and he loved it till he got his sawstop. It actually sounds like a really cool table

[wingless]

The new-to-me tool had an issue where I was unable to fully tilt 45° the blade because the rack and pinion tilt mechanism gear set would skip a gear tooth, just prior to reaching that tilt.

 

The tool was cleaned and lubricated, but that didn't resolve the problem.

 

The solution was determined and implemented. The tool has an eccentric sleeve, P/N 089037005154, item 73 on Parts List Figure B. That sleeve has an exposed 14mm hex head, like a nut, shown in the image adjacent to the block.

 

The rotation of that sleeve brings the worm gear shaft closer or further to the pinion gear. (Note that I supported the heavy motor mass during this adjustment so the motor wouldn't / couldn't suddenly swing if the gears disengaged.) When I rotated the sleeve to bring the pinion gear closer to the rack gear this restored normal full-swing operation of the tilt mechanism.

 

 

[wingless]

This image shows the eccentric, where the gear and collar are coaxial w/ the shaft, but the eccentric nut / sleeve has an offset internal shaft bore.

 

This shows how rotating the nut/eccentric will change the spacing between the pinion gear and the rack gear.

 

On mine, it took a breaker bar, a 14mm crowfoot wrench and massive force to break the 9-year stationary eccentric free. Once free, a regular combination wrench permitted normal rotation for the proper setting.

 

!!! Please remember to block the motor during this adjustment so it doesn't fall suddenly if the gears disengage !!!

 

 

 

[wingless]

The PO modified the saw to seal the box gaps to improve dust collection.

 

One of the modifications was an adhesive foam strip weatherstrip, on the large door, between the saw stand box and the door.

 

That would have been fine if the PO also replaced the closure screws w/ a longer screw, to account for the additional thickness added by the foam.

 

Instead the original screw, which was now too short, was just pushed harder and screwed to grab enough threads, breaking the plastic.

 

Fortunately that recently-added adhesive foam strip retained the broken parts, permitting me to effect a good repair.

 

That plastic side door was repaired using  West System 105 Epoxy Resin, West System 206 Slow Hardener and Whitaker Oil Company 3/4 oz Fiberglass Mat. I also used Evercoat black color agent to tint the epoxy color, from clear to black.

 

https://www.westsystem.com/the-105-system/epoxy-resins-hardeners/

https://www.whitakeroil.com/

http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/base-part/100503/us/

 

This West System epoxy is great. I've used this for many projects. This gets mixed as five parts resin to one part hardener, either by mass or volume. I use my digital scale, tare the cup, add the resin, divide the mass by five, multiply by six, then drip in hardener until the scale shows the correct mass. Easy. The parts clean up great w/ acetone.

 

The part was masked off to limit the repair area. That included a small tape wad in the hole.

 

Layers of epoxy and layers of fiberglass were applied to the broken area, using a disposable paint brush to ensure the fiberglass was fully wetted and bubbles worked out. After about an hour, before the epoxy was fully hard, but while it had stopped running, the tape was removed and any leakage was scraped away.

 

The next day, after the epoxy hardened, the edge was sanded smooth and the hole drilled open.

 

The screws were replaced w/ longer screws, I used M5-0.8x15 black pan head screws. Those now fit fine.

 

The repair worked out great.

 

The screwed-closed door seals fine without the foam weatherstripping, added by the PO, that I removed. The gap is not air tight, but the air leakage is minimal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wingless]

The saw includes two brackets on the lower left side of the cabinet for hanging the rip fence, the sliding miter gauge and the throat plate. The saw also includes a hook, for hanging the riving knife (missing the blade guard) and the two blade wrenches.

 

The ½" Delrin side plates added to the rip fence sides increased the width of that part making the brackets ineffective to hang all the parts concurrently.

 

The PO included a shelf that rested / attached to those brackets, but I didn't like that solution.

 

My solution was instead to place a wood spacer between those brackets and the cabinet.

 

Now those brackets again work as intended.

 

 

 

 

[wingless]

The Ridgid R4511 has a 4" dust collection port, as part of the bottom dust tray, on the bottom rear of the tool.

 

The PO had modified the tool to seal up many of the exterior openings, in an attempt to improve dust collection / containment.

 

One of those prior modifications was blocking the large opening on the top of the side door, adjacent to the bottom of the bed.

 

The dust collection is being examined by me. Part of that examination is looking at internal airflow and internal dust accumulation patterns.

 

One thing I noticed is very little internal accumulation near the arc shaped opening on the front panel, near the tilt pointer. Another is, greater internal dust accumulation at the corners, where lesser airflow exists.

 

The tool will be used w/o the large opening on top of the side door blocked, instead operated w/ that unobstructed to determine if dust collection is improved by the air cross flow pattern restored.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wingless]

On 2/8/2019 at 8:58 AM, ChrisK said:

I remember Matt Vanderlist getting a granite topped saw from another manufacturer Steel City and he loved it till he got his sawstop. It actually sounds like a really cool table

Yes, the Steel City Tool Works 35911 / 35926 and the Craftsman Professional 351.221160 table saws both have identical cast iron guts / granite top as my Ridgid R4511 table saw.

 

https://www.amazon.com/steel-city-tool-works-35926/dp/b00a5u1x2o

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/zrq8qyae2w-000247

[wingless]

On 2/7/2019 at 4:46 PM, wingless said:

My tool has the 2.3mm (0.090") riving knife w/ spring-loaded anti kickback pawls, but is missing the clear plastic blade guard. That missing / discontinued part is not available to purchase.

 

 

A NOS riving knife / blade guard was located and purchased.

 

The steel thickness on this particular riving knife was too thick to fit into the slot, but the blade guard and arm were scavenged from that thick riving knife, added to my existing riving knife (missing the blade guard) and are a perfect fit for my saw.

 

A hook was fabricated from a threaded eye bolt, then added to the rear of the saw cabinet to hang the blade guard assembly. 

 

Not shown, a straight stem was also fabricated from a threaded eye bolt and added to the opposite rear cabinet corner for hanging my push sticks.

 

Now all is good with my complete saw.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wingless]

On 2/7/2019 at 4:46 PM, wingless said:

My tool has the 2.3mm (0.090") riving knife w/ spring-loaded anti kickback pawls, but is missing the clear plastic blade guard. That missing / discontinued part is not available to purchase.

On 5/5/2019 at 10:11 PM, wingless said:

 

A NOS riving knife / blade guard was located and purchased.

 

 

 

 

The seller recently located the missing blade guard, then called me to come pickup that part. What an outstanding person!

 

That original blade guard is slightly different than the replacement I purchased.

 

The original blade guard arm has a small triangular wedge stop on the end. That stop greatly decreases the usability of the blade guard. That stop limits raising the blade guard to inches above the table, only while it is manually held up.

 

That is contrasted by the replacement blade guard I located / purchased. The replacement blade guard may be fully raised and stays in that position until manually lowered to the table surface.

 

The recently-obtained original blade guard was modified to match the replacement blade guard by cutting off the small triangular wedge stop and by rounding the end corners. The exposed steel was painted for corrosion protection.

 

Effecting this change requires removal of one push-on axle cap by careful prying off the end.

 

IMO, this is a HUGE improvement on this part. Any users w/ the blade guard having the small triangular wedge stop should effect this change. The blade guard utility is excellent w/ this modification and not good before the change.

 

 

 

 

 

[tlarson]

I have also recently purchased the R4511 and am almost finished restoring the saw after the PO had left it sitting outside in Arizona some time. I'm cleaning everything out, removing rust, re-lubricating, and giving it a paint job. Everything is going back together quite nicely.

 

The PO did not have a riving knife or blade guard. Where were you able to purchase these from?

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

 

There is one available on eBay. That knife looks thicker than mine. If it doesn't fit into this pocket, then that could be shimmed to accept the thicker part, if required.

 

The riving knife and blade guard are not available otherwise.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283422623625?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

 

Good luck with your saw. Please post images.

 

This is a great tool.

[kriz_k]

Hi im too in the process of restoring. Im just about done with all the extras (extensions, router insert), but i have a big issue and that is the pivot bracket b43. Mine was completely mangled.  There were only 5 teeth at the very end of the bracket (when blade fully raised) and 1 tooth at the begining of the bracket. Does any one know where i can find this bracket. i had it welded twice and i cut the teeth, but the second time welder didnt put enough and after cutting, teeth dont touch.  I have spent so much time on this already that i m starting to give up. Help

[wingless]

 

On 2/15/2019 at 1:16 PM, wingless said:

Yes, the Steel City Tool Works 35911 / 35926 and the Craftsman Professional 351.221160 table saws both have identical cast iron guts / granite top as my Ridgid R4511 table saw.

 

https://www.amazon.com/steel-city-tool-works-35926/dp/b00a5u1x2o

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/zrq8qyae2w-000247

On 10/11/2020 at 2:17 PM, kriz_k said:

Hi im too in the process of restoring. Im just about done with all the extras (extensions, router insert), but i have a big issue and that is the pivot bracket b43. Mine was completely mangled.  There were only 5 teeth at the very end of the bracket (when blade fully raised) and 1 tooth at the begining of the bracket. Does any one know where i can find this bracket. i had it welded twice and i cut the teeth, but the second time welder didnt put enough and after cutting, teeth dont touch.  I have spent so much time on this already that i m starting to give up. Help

Welcome to the forum.

 

That is very unfortunate.

 

As you probably know, the Ridgid 089037005129 Pivot Bracket  and the identical Craftsman 31061.00 Table Saw Pintle are both discontinued parts. I was unable to locate the Steel City Tool Works P/N, but my guess is that it is also no longer available.

 

It may not hurt to contact Ridgid by telephone to see if they may be able to help.

 

This link shows that Ridgid 089037005129 Pivot bracket. This link shows that Craftsman 31061.00 Table Saw Pintle part.

 

If retaining usage of this tool is desired, then it may be required to manually duplicate and fabricate that part, w/ casting and machining the replacement.

 

Has the adjustment on the worm screw been attempted to improve / resolve the engagement problem? Does that existing adjustment have insufficient range to resolve the problem?

 

This image shows that part, behind the blade. It also shows the worm screw w/ the eccentric sleeve w/ integral adjustment nut.

 

[wingless]

Here is an example of creating a cart iron part.

[kriz_k]

Thanks for welcoming me

I have been on the forum for years but only to read and educate myself.

Anyways

I bought the saw in may for next to nothing and fully restored everything on it. I have had a welder weld the pivot bracket beads on and i attempted twice to replicate the teeth.  I cut the teeth pretty good the second time but there wasnt enough weld built up and in the middle the teeth didnt touch the worm on the rod. I had him add one more layer of weld, but thats it for the rods i got (13pcs $50)

I will pick it up tomorrow and see if its enough before my third attempt.

I was hoping that maybe someone here had a mold of the piece. Btw when i got the saw nothing worked not even the motor. Opened up the motor in my shop and there was so much fine dust in it, and it was so dense that motor wouldnt even turn.

Now it runs like new.  Same with everything else on the saw.

Since i m in a single car garage i decided to get rid of my ts3650 which i loved, except for dust collection. And got great coin for it.

 

[wingless]

My tool set has included several portable contractor saws over the years, then I landed my Ridgid R4511. I love this saw.

 

One of the attributes that initially amazed me, plus continues to provide satisfaction at each usage, is just how quiet this tool is during operation, as compared to my direct drive portable contractor saws.

 

In my case I made several minor tweaks and now mine makes very accurate cuts.

 

The cabinet on my saw was also completely full of sawdust, filling almost two 5 gallon buckets before I loaded it into my Grand Cherokee.

 

Mine is also currently in a crowded garage, so I use the Herculift to shift the saw when required for working on larger stock.

 

BEST OF LUCK with the repair! Please know that there is an eccentric on the worm gear to adjust the engagement to the rack gear, if required.

 

Please report on the results.

 

Note that the existing part could be used as a mold to recreate a new casting. It would be required to slightly increase the exterior dimensions because the part will shrink slightly when cooling. Or a slightly larger part could be made of wood or could be 3D printed.

 

Did yours include the blade guard? There is one for sale on eBay that appears to fit.

[kriz_k]

No blade guard and 

I made my own riving knife 

[KateBish20]

Thanks for the info

[aladdin4d]

I know I'm late to this conversation but I am also in the middle of getting an R4511 back into running shape so this thread has become an important resource and I wanted to thank everybody for the information posted. 

 

In my searches for information I've com across a couple of things that aren't here so I figured I add them to possibly help others.

 

Steel City is, kind of, still around. When the original Steel City went belly up a Canadian distributor, Nordis, bought all the leftover stock and rights to the name. It might be worth contacting them to see if they have any unobtainable parts leftover if and when you need something. 

 

Shark Guard is an aftermarket guard for a number of different saws including the R4511. They also sell riving knives to fit in different thickness and heights. 

[ds1848]

Hi.  I created this account in order to post to this thread and thank you so much for the info on the worm gear eccentric and how to adjust it.  I have owned this same table saw since 2014 and for the last few years have run into that same problem; except, in my case, the pinion gear slips off the rack right before I tilt my blade back to 90 degrees.  Although it was quite clear that the pinion and the rack were not aligned, I could not figure out how I could adjust either one to bring them back into alignment until I found your lumberjocks post, which fortunately came up at the top of google when searching for "ridgid table saw slips when blade tilted to 90 degrees." 

 

The 14mm "nut" was at first difficult to move, but for me, it moved easily after spraying the area with some penetrating oil.  After that, I was able to move the pinion enough to where the blade can now tilt a bit past 90 and a bit past 45.  When looking at the gear from the cabinet door, the pinion still seems too far to the right of the rack, but it works good enough.

 

Overall I like the table saw, and have gotten good use out of it over the last 8 years.  It is quiet, vibrates little, cuts well with a sharp blade, and is accurate and adjustable.  Of course it has no problem with rust, although I guess you lose the benefit of magnetic jigs.  The only real thing I don't like is that the front and rear rails come in two parts, which makes aligning the fence difficult, so I just replaced the stock rails with a single stretch of square tube/angle iron.  Aside from the rails, I replaced the arbor as well as the motor bearings, and I ditched the stock splitter for an aftermarket riving knife (from where I forget).

 

So thank you once again for figuring that out and posting it to the internet.  It solved a problem that had been vexing me for years and it spared me countless hours of hopelessly fiddling around with the saw.  Much appreciated!!

[wingless]

@ds1848, welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks for your terrific and thoughtful post (and PM).

 

Your experience about the difficult initial movement matches mine. As I posted, fortunately I had a 14mm crowfoot wrench and a long breaker bar to apply massive force to break that 9-year stationary eccentric free. Once free, a regular combination wrench permitted normal rotation for the proper setting.

 

Don't worry that the worm gear is not centered on the pinion gear. The designed action of the eccentric nut moves the worm gear closer or farther from the pinion gear (desired / required action) but it also moves it side to side along the pinion gear (acceptable action).

 

This is an amazing saw, except when moving / relocation is required. My personal home move (in progress) required me to partially disassemble for SUV cargo area transport to setup into my new workshop (still under construction). The saw does not get any lighter as we both increase in age. I yanked all the loose stuff, standard side hanging brackets, things I bolted on (rear hanging hook and rod), side granite wings, rear dust port and the motor, all to decrease the mass and avoid damage. One thing I noticed when removing the motor is the double D cord grip would not release from the electrical cover, so I left that attached to the cover and just disconnected the wiring.