scragg63 Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 Hello everyone, new to this forum so please be gentle. If possible i am after a possible solution to an issue im currently having with my Dewalt chop saw. I have recently got back into the building game and as such started to use my chopsaw more and more, however, I have found an issue with the saw that is confusing the hell out of me. The saw is 10 years old but in pristine condition with a reasonably new blade. The problem is that once the saw is spinning at full speed and lowering onto the timber (and this can be as thin as 1/2" arc) the blade stops spinning during the cut and to complete the cut i have to lift the blade up to let the blade spin to max then re-lower, this can take several attempts. Any advice would be gratefully accepted. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric - TIA Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 Does the motor turn off also? If the motor is still on, then check your blade and arbor. The blade might not be set properly in the arbor or the blade might have a different arbor setting. Some art diamond shape and others are round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulengr Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 If the motor stalls most likely one of three things. If it has brushes they dry out in storage and chip/break and need replaced but that’s more of a DC thing and you sound like it’s corded. In AC motors if it’s stalling it sounds like a failing capacitor. They only last about 10 years. There are up to 2 capacitors. One boosts voltage and offsets the phase angle to a starting winding to get the motor running then cuts out. It sounds like that is working or maybe not cutting out. The second makes it run more efficiently so you get a more power when it is already running which is what I suspect has failed. It can be the motor varnish is shot and the motor is burning out too but you can smell that. If there is a funky battery smell I’d definitely think capacitors. Finally I’d lean strongly towards a bearing seized up and robbing power, 10 years of sitting isn’t good for bearings. Motor capacitors and brushes are cheap (under $20) and even motors aren’t bad but labor isn’t. So if you take it to a tool repair shop which you can easily find in major cities, expect about $100-150. You might find a great deal on a new/refurb while you are there. If you can do it yourself you wouldn’t be posting here. If it’s just a cheap one (under $250 current dollars) might want to just get a new one. If it’s an expensive high accuracy, sliding full bevel, etc., it’s worth repairing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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