wingless Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 The teak on my Hampton Bay Barnsdale Teak 7 Piece Patio Set, P/N 072014_2003606, that I purchased new from Home Depot in 2014 has gotten gray and needed love and attention. This is really nice furniture. It has a slatted teak top (Forest Stewardship Council, FSC, certified teak wood), powder coated welded square tube aluminum frame, six matching chairs, w/ taught mesh fabric seats. The solution I selected was to disassemble the funiture, sand the teak smooth, removing the gray and removing the lightly raised grain, then protect with high-gloss spar urethane exterior coating. My Festool RO 150 FEQ ROTEX sander with my Festool dust extractor are my go-to tools for surface finishing. I have been using these tools for more years and more hours than I can count. These tools do not disappoint. This was sanded w/ Festool abrasives. The abrasives I used are now discontinued / superseded. When I sand, I initially start w/ fine grit, then progressively move to a more aggressive grit, until I find the least aggressive grit that produces acceptable results. I used: Rubin 50 grit; Titan 2 60 grit; Titan 2 80 grit and Titan 2 100 grit, all on the bare teak wood, prior to urethane application. The 220 grit sanding between coats was normal generic rectangular aluminum oxide sheets broken into quarter width, in a palm sanding block, or hand held. The slatted teak table top assembly is attached to the welded aluminum frame, using large wood screws, bolted through perimeter tabs and through center frame tubes. Once the table top assembly was removed, the slats were unscrewed, but they were also glued together, so the joints did not detach. I also needed to hammer a putty knife through each of the slat to frame joints to break each glued joint. After each piece was sequentially removed, then sanded, I numbered each piece at the glue joint location, so I would be able to reassemble w/o difficulty. There was slight screw hole location variability, so the orientation and location of each slat needed to be maintained for proper assembly. I numbered the slats 1-40 and the frame A-D using a Sharpie. Prior to urethane, all of the joints were covered w/ blue painter's tape so I could get an effective bare wood-to-wood glue joint. I used standard wood glue at final assembly, applying sufficient for complete coverage and cleaning off the excess squeezed out of the joint. The finish I selected was Minwax Pro Series Spar Urethane. This is a high-gloss water-based finish that protects against water and sunlight. I applied four coats, sanding lightly with 220 grit between coats, except after the third coat. It passed the hand feel smoothness test, so I didn't need to sand between coats 3 and 4. A tack cloth was used prior to application on all coats. This is a great coating. The warm water clean up is terrific. It has ZERO odor. With the short daylight hours and the LOTS of pieces, I needed to do much indoors. The wife (or me) couldn't smell anything. The paint can is plastic, so I don't need to worry about rust damage when I go to use the remainder in the future. One aspect I found surprising was the milk color of the spar urethane in the gallon container. The hidden / bottom side of all the parts were coated first. The cured / hardened drips onto the top / exposed surfaces were then sanded off, making those sides again perfect and smooth prior to urethane application. Those exposed / top sides then came great and I didn't worry about bottom side drips that happened during the top coat. At assembly I wanted / needed to ensure the top would fit into the welded aluminum frame. My solution was to screw lightly snug w/o glue the two end slats onto each of the four long frame joints, then dropped into the frame. Those screws were then tightened. The top assembly was removed from the frame, then the four middle slats were glued and screwed into position. The top assembly was again verified for fit into the frame. The top assembly was again removed from the frame and all of the slats were glued and screwed into position, including removing, gluing and replacing the previously-attached four end slats. It all went together fine. By comparison the chairs were easy. The teak armrests were each secured to the chair frame with screws, three each side. I also numbered each armrest and chair to ensure proper assembly, just in-case. Those armrests were also sanded and coated with urethane, just like the table teak. Before Condition - Top and Bottom - Initial Sanding of a Top Random Scratch and Initial Sanding of Right Side Slats Before / After Sanding Comparison After Sanding - Top and Bottom Table Disassembly - Part Marking - Glue Joint Tape Masking Minwax Pro Series Spar Urethane Bottom / Hidden Side Urethane Application Top / Exposed Side Urethane Application Initial Assembly / Frame Fitting Glued Joints Table Assembly Completed Top Assembly - Top and Bottom Completed Table and Chairs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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