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Recommended laser for framing and grade work?


fishnaked

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A friend let me use his laser 17 years ago while building my shop. A DeWalt, I think. I just used it to set my concrete forms. Was amazed at how useful it was. I don't remember it having a visible beam (?). I just recall a beeping when you hit level. Perhaps it was only for grade work, I don't know.

 

I have not used one since...but have always wondered how these newer ones with the projecting vertical and horizontal beams may assist in framing.

 

Are there lasers that can be used for grading applications as well framing? If so, are there any recommendations for something that's of good value?

 

I'm not a pro framer. Nor am I fast. In fact, many would probably consider me slow. But, I enjoy it and am good at it. Just seeking a tool that might assist my production level for building my personal home which I will be doing almost entirely myself.

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3 hours ago, Eric - TIA said:

Lasers have come a long way in the last 17 years.  My favorite lasers are Bosch and Hilti.  Yes, rotary lasers are great for grading or longer runs, which you can rent if you only need it for one application.  Line lasers a great for smaller framing jobs. 

 

Thanks. With all that is available, it seems overwhelmingly confusing. Is there a laser that can be used for grading AND framing? Or are they two very different tools?

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/11/2021 at 12:07 PM, fishnaked said:

 

Thanks. With all that is available, it seems overwhelmingly confusing. Is there a laser that can be used for grading AND framing? Or are they two very different tools?

 

There may be some combinations, but in my experience there are visible lasers for precision construction and rotary lasers for grading and such.  I used to work on a footer crew and we used a rotary laser to grade both our trenches and the concrete footers themselves.  The rotary level offered a "good enough" measurement to ensure we met the minimal trench depth and concrete thickness.  In fact, our grading sticks were simply pieces of 1x2" with a broken tape measure blade nailed to them.  We'd place the transponder at the applicable depth, set our steps where needed to adjust for elevation, and have at it.

 

 

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