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Are all drills (tools) reviews with can motors done when brand new?


tooljoe

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The reason I’m asking this is because can motors first need to be “break-in†in order to get the full performance out of it. Don’t take my word for it, there is plenty of info about this on the wed but I will provide some of my own pictures to illustrate such point…

Here one can see how the brand new brushes do not make full contact on the commutator hence causing stuff like not full amp draw and over heating, for example.

kbyds7.jpg

o9he.jpg

Now here is a picture of a non-can drill motor where the brushes are already pre shaped to hug the commutator out of the factory; therefore, getting the most one can get out of a DC motor out of the box.

scz3nt.jpg

So are all tool reviews done when the can motor has not been broken in, just curious? Thanks.

oh, here are the direct links to view the pictures clearer...

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=kbyds7&s=7

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=o9he&s=7

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=scz3nt&s=7

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Ahhh, ok. I am very picky about stuff (anything) so what you just mentioned does not suite my needs but that is just me. Here is a very good article written about this topic…

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5628228/tm.htm

I’m just those type of guys that wants to get the most performance out of anything.

So does your process of “breaking-in†the motor results end up with both can-motor brushed shaped like the commutator- brushes making “full†contact with commutator?

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I am a frequent reader of most RC forums, and am familiar with this article. Most full sized batteries from most power-tool manufactures typically run for nearly a half hour before the battery runs out. I believe that's more than enough time to properly seat the brushes. The difference were talking about is minuscule, these fractions of performance matter a whole lot more in the RC world than in the power-tool world.

90% of all end-users wouldn't have a clue what your talking about, and for those who do would certainly argue it's relevance. The difference may be 1-2 holes, if that. You can run 5 controlled tests and get a 5 different results each time.

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I am a frequent reader of most RC forums, and am familiar with this article. Most full sized batteries from most power-tool manufactures typically run for nearly a half hour before the battery runs out. I believe that's more than enough time to properly seat the brushes.

Yes but I am specifically talking about can-motors here. Non-can motors (with brushes) need to be seated in too but the process to set in those is not the same for can motors. E.g. in the last picture I provided, the non-can motor still is not making “full†contact on the commutator, because the surface of the brush is rippled. so, even making a review on that motor brand new won't be the same as when the brushes "settle in."

The difference were talking about is minuscule, these fractions of performance matter a whole lot more in the RC world than in the power-tool world.

Why is that? thanks.

90% of all end-users wouldn't have a clue what your talking about, and for those who do would certainly argue it's relevance. The difference may be 1-2 holes, if that. You can run 5 controlled tests and get a 5 different results each time.

Yes I understand your reasoning, but I would like to see it in writing baked up with evidence. E.g. like a video. I am just one of those 10% who is not satisfied that’s all.

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I would love to see your findings, it would be interesting to see the difference.

Unfortunately, I did not run any tests with my brand new drill (dcd710). They have the brushes settled in now.  There is no denying that broken-in brushes perform better though.

At any rate, just for curious minds, after one hour of running the brand new drill this is how the motor looks like afterward.

dlgemq.jpg

345bqqx.jpg

And this is how the brushes look like after I sanded them down, I said I was picky :)

2zhp92w.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Tooljoe, you are forgetting that with smaller contact area you exert much higher pressure on the commutator. When the brush is worn in to be arc-shaped, it still does not match the commutator perfectly, causing brush to bounce. The higher pressure of a smaller contact area compensates for lower current by providing more constant contact. If there was a massive difference in performance, brushes would have always been pre-ground. Remember that on the battery end you have a very small point contact between the battery terminal the tool. Also, a new user would judge the tool performance within first weeks, not after 3 years of owning a tool.

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Good day, guys! I have a question for you-

The DCD710, which I currently own, has a canned motor. The new 20v tools- will they have a brushless motor setup, or are they going to be similar to the current xrp tools out there now? I had overheard a buddy of mine saying that a rep had told him they were possibly gong to be brushless! If so, what will this do for runtime and power of the tools- hopefully increase them??? :)

Reason I am asking is that I am interested in both the DCK280C2 and DCK285C2 as I like compact drills and the impact (I'm going to be building a fence soon, as well as numerous other projects in the future), and it may be time to start upgrading my 18v tools. Any thoughts or answers would be greatly appreciated, guy!! Thanks!

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