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Dewalt 18V permanent power


yualfred

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I could definitely use something like this.  I have all my packs (10) in my van at all times (charged the day before) but some of them don't last too long and are on their last legs.  There have been a few situations when I'm on the jobsite where a corded reciprocating saw or corded circular saw would have been handy.  My next purchases are these two items but if they had this adaptor I'd buy that instead.

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So was this 24v adapter discontinued? Looks huge with the cooling fan inside. I guess it's the amps required to run the tool.

Most of the 24v was discontinued back in 2002. Ebay still has a ton of 24v stuff floating around. The 24v DC223KA Hammerdrill, battery, and charger recently got an update and is still around.

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  • 4 weeks later...

DeWALT attempted this with the old 24v line. It never stuck, but I do agree it would be a nice feature for certain applications.

4840b54075587_5665n.jpg

I'm in the process of modifying this to run my 28v Tracksaw.

You can buy industrial grade 18v 40A power supplies but you are looking at $400+ a piece.

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  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Saulacharryduong@hotmail.

This topic was brought up many time in many tool forum. I am glad that most here agree that this is good thing to have.

Not from Dewalt but a pro quality. Would not be that hard to build an adaptor.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/GREENLEE-AC-Adaptor-6CCJ6

As some one pointed out above, an AC/DC transformer with enough amp is not cheap. But B&D actually holding a patent for a transformer less AC/DC converter, which cost an weight less.

http://www.google.com/patents?id=MbEHAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1&dq=Black+and+Decker+%2B+AC/DC&hl=en&sa=X&ei=oqQTT7HCNYOviAL1qYHTDQ&ved=0CEwQ6AEwCTgK#v=onepage&q&f=false

Then I remembered the AC/DC vacuums. I look up the part list for DC500 and there is a AC/DC converter in there. This converter should be able to handle other tool with the same amp as that of the vacuum (which is not that high (?)).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the 24volt adapter (240v) UK.

I have made one for my 12volt and 18volt systems too.

The 12v works a treat.

My 18volt system however, lacks power and gets hot. It needs a higher amp transformer which cost a lot. And are too big to fit in the empty battery case.

My fool proof solution was to buy one, or in my case two or three of each tool. ::)

I always have corded and cordless tools with me although I use the cordless tools much more.

In fact, the only times I use the corded tools are when:

Routing, Sanding, planing, core drilling, concrete breaking etc. Oops, and Mitre saws, I never bought the cordless one.

All other situations I use cordless tools.

My favourites are the biscuit jointers, drills/drivers/sds, torches, circular saws, recip saws, cut out tools and grinders. My 18v tools definately get used more than all others.

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The ROI for me on cordless tools is a lot worse than the corded tools. In my case because it's just secondary work (part time) my ongoing expenses are the batteries which I don't have with the corded tools.

Last year I replaced most of my 18v tools with the Dewalt 20v max so my 18v/20v tools share a common battery platform (reduce ongoing costs) and I also invested in the Dewalt 12v Max line but Dewalt's 12v line's small so I still don't have a single 12v battery platform.

I have the 24volt adapter (240v) UK.

I have made one for my 12volt and 18volt systems too.

The 12v works a treat.

My 18volt system however, lacks power and gets hot. It needs a higher amp transformer which cost a lot. And are too big to fit in the empty battery case.

My fool proof solution was to buy one, or in my case two or three of each tool. ::)

I always have corded and cordless tools with me although I use the cordless tools much more.

In fact, the only times I use the corded tools are when:

Routing, Sanding, planing, core drilling, concrete breaking etc. Oops, and Mitre saws, I never bought the cordless one.

All other situations I use cordless tools.

My favourites are the biscuit jointers, drills/drivers/sds, torches, circular saws, recip saws, cut out tools and grinders. My 18v tools definately get used more than all others.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I kind of assumed they were sending a message out to their 36V customers that they will shortly be killing off the 36V line and offering this up as a transition option.

I'm not sure about begin the dumbest,  if you think about it there is really only two good options here for Makita if they want to kill the line. Fund some kind of trade-in program or do something like this which the users have to pony-up $$$ for. Even if this aggravates their customer base they will be invested in Makita's 18V LXI platform.

Sorry, but that is the dumbest thing I've ever seen! WTH Makita!?

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It was this thread that brought me to this forum.  I am a maintenance man for 500+ apartments and never know what I will be doing from day to day.  I keep a charger in the shop, at home, in the truck and still end up running around hunting for 'good' batteries in the middle of big jobs.  Last week for instance - removing a couple cast Iron vents with my  recip saw and torch blades.  I was literally 2 foot from an outlet and was going through 2 batts before one would charge.  Started shopping for a corded saw today then thought - a pack adapter shouldnt be too off the wall...  more to it than I thought but not gonna give up.

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Hi, I have a lot of DeWalt tools and am based in the UK. I was having particular problems with my

circular saws which are particularly demanding on batteries. My plunge saw was the most frustrating

when it stopped part way through a cut :(

Because of this I found a solution to providing mains power :)  - - - - -  18v circular saws can draw

22Amps at peak.

If you're willing to do a bit of DIY on the set up and can do or know someone good at soldering then you

should be able to do it for less than $120.

You will need a heavy duty soldering iron, I was struggling (but successful) using a 170Watt pistol grip

style iron. If you can get hold of some liquid solder flux it would make the job much easier, without is

quite a struggle but still possible depending on your skill.

For approx $100 including shipping you can get the same power supply (PSU) I use from eBay, you're

looking for:

500W 18V 28A Switching Power Supply With Current Control Charger (says it's for CCTV but works

fine for me)

You will also need:

1. Standard mains lead flex of a suitable length that can handle a decent amount of current e.g. 16Amps

or more.

2. Standard flex lead that can easily handle 18v 30Amps or preferably more (keep this short, e.g. 2m

max or you will suffer too much volt drop on the lead) (I initially used too lightweight a cable and too long

and it didn't work)

Note: If you expect to use it in cold conditions use "arctic" cable

3. Cord/flex support grip for where flex passes through battery housing

4. Scrap DeWalt battery (or any other suitable make)

5. Very dense foam to fill void left by removed cells

6. Ideally a box of some sort (with ventilation) to protect PSU and its connections from damage

Procedure:

1. Dismantle scrap battery, remove all cells BUT keep the one closest to output terminals (cut away

other cells as necessary).

2. Desolder wire lead to positive at terminal connection

3. Drill hole in convenient place in battery for flex to pass through using flex grip/support allowing for

routing of cable internally

4. Strip back wiring and solder positive lead to positive terminal

5. Rough up exterior of battery cell close to the bottom (or cable will foul in housing)

6. Tin the connection point before trying to solder on wire and tin the wire

7. Whilst there is still heat in the battery apply liquid flux to battery and solder wire to battery keeping wire as flat to battery to avoid fouling on reassembly (as mentioned it can be tricky but make sure it is a good joint as it has to handle a lot of current)

8. Connect cables to appropriate terminals of PSU (make sure to link all similar voltage polarity terminals together to get full current capability)

9. Cut some foam to fill void in battery casing, you're looking to make sure battery with connections on stays up in it's correct position so you get good contact with the tool.

If you don't need such high current e.g. only for a drill then select a lower rated PSU from eBay and you can downrate cabling as appropriate and save money.

Needless to say you do this modification and use it at your own risk :)

Hope this helps

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