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Bind-up Control vas E-Clutch/ALC


anadevi

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Anyone know if/what the difference is between the e-clutch/ALC on the DWD220 compared to the Bind-up control on the DWD460. Is there a difference or is the e-clutch/ALC just a newer version of bind-up control?

There's not a whole lot of info out there about either of these or how it works.

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Bind-up control is rotation based.  If the sensor recognizes a fast rotation (i.e. you lose control in a bind up and the tool begins to spin away), after something like 45 degrees of rotation, it shuts down power to the tool.

E-Clutch is an actual electronic clutch, where if the tool binds up, the electronics begins to pulse full power through the chuck (feels like anti-lock breaks), where the electronics try to let you break through the bind up for about 10-15 pulses.  If the bind up remains, the power is cut to the tool so that you can reverse out, but if the bit is able to break through, power returns to the tool as normal.

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Thanks KJones,

That's the info I was looking for. I like the focus on improving safety Dewalt's been taking with the larger drills.

Bind-up control is rotation based.  If the sensor recognizes a fast rotation (i.e. you lose control in a bind up and the tool begins to spin away), after something like 45 degrees of rotation, it shuts down power to the tool.

E-Clutch is an actual electronic clutch, where if the tool binds up, the electronics begins to pulse full power through the chuck (feels like anti-lock breaks), where the electronics try to let you break through the bind up for about 10-15 pulses.  If the bind up remains, the power is cut to the tool so that you can reverse out, but if the bit is able to break through, power returns to the tool as normal.

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Anadevi, while I am not sure exactly about this matter exactly, I'd like to help as you've helped me out in the past.  Here is what I came up with.

So doing some research on both these models, I've found some information out.  Here the link to a diagram for theDW460.  http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dwd460-type-1234-drill-parts-c-1009_2276_16255.html

Likewise here is a diagram to the DWD220.  http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dwd220-type-drill-parts-c-1009_2276_157650.html 

I wish I could provide more information on this matter, but I've only a Dewalt DW990 drill and Black and Decker 1166 corded drill, so I don't have too much experience with other types of drills yet.    However,  I can tell you this about your Dewalt DWD460.

The switch (number 11 on the diagram or part number 646347-00) seems to be on factory back order and that could mean that they might be discontinuing that part.  I am using ereplacement, so I also want to provide you a extension number to a good technician.  Here is the phone number to Ereplacements  toll free 6:30 to 5, Mon-Fri, mst 866-802-6383.  Here is a extension number to a technician.  The extension number is 136.

Also the bail handle (part 23 on the diagram/Part number 648853-00) also seems to be factory back order as well. 

However Armature&Brgs. Part Number: 636395-00SV Figure 105 is also on back order as well.

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Thanks Russ for the info. This tools cost was not cheap and it's a tool I would try to service before replacing it.

Looking at the links you posted, they are labeled type 1 which from memory was the original 7 Amp (might have been 7.5 Amps), so that might be why the parts are getting harder to find, or it could just be those parts have an equivalent "upgraded" part. Mine is the 11 Amp.

The DW124 also had a type 1 & type 2 with the type 2 being 11.5 Amp.

Anadevi, while I am not sure exactly about this matter exactly, I'd like to help as you've helped me out in the past.   Here is what I came up with.

So doing some research on both these models, I've found some information out.   Here the link to a diagram for theDW460.  http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dwd460-type-1234-drill-parts-c-1009_2276_16255.html

Likewise here is a diagram to the DWD220.   http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dwd220-type-drill-parts-c-1009_2276_157650.html 

I wish I could provide more information on this matter, but I've only a Dewalt DW990 drill and Black and Decker 1166 corded drill, so I don't have too much experience with other types of drills yet.    However,  I can tell you this about your Dewalt DWD460.

The switch (number 11 on the diagram or part number 646347-00) seems to be on factory back order and that could mean that they might be discontinuing that part.  I am using ereplacement, so I also want to provide you a extension number to a good technician.   Here is the phone number to Ereplacements  toll free 6:30 to 5, Mon-Fri, mst 866-802-6383.   Here is a extension number to a technician.  The extension number is 136.

Also the bail handle (part 23 on the diagram/Part number 648853-00) also seems to be factory back order as well. 

However Armature&Brgs. Part Number: 636395-00SV Figure 105 is also on back order as well.

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Yeah Anadevi, fixing a tool is often times much cheaper than just replacing it.  It may take time finding the parts (for example, my Black and Decker Air inflator) but it's much cheaper than buying a new unit usually.

Finding original parts if they are discontinued can be somewhat easy or exceptionally challenging.  Challenging to the point where the average person may find it impossible with some older tools. 

But talking about your tool, if they are about to discontinue the switch and if your current switch is on it's way out, I highly recommend buying a back up (of the original) if it's still sold.  As I am quickly learning with my tools, that is easily the most important aspect of any power tool.  Even the Festool's and Hilti's tools are like that as well.

Glad I could help though Anadevi.

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Thanks Russ, I enjoy reading your posts and your absolutely right total cost of ownership includes quality, service life and the often forgotten serviceability.

I've really been taking a hard look at the tools I have. I do not put anywhere near enough hours on my tools to really justify many I have. The little extra I make can help a little but they are not paying my bills or recovering their costs. Time recently has been difficult to find..... "Finding work is not a problem, it's making it worthwhile that's hard".

The DWD460's a really nice drill and if I had a problem with it I would look at the cost to repair it, but it's also a tool I can quite easy get by without. I had a 5 year old saw pop it's motor this year, it was $300 for the parts, good saw just not worth it when I could replace it for <$600.

I've also been looking at other tool options as well. The Dewalt DWD220 I just bought, was half the cost of my old drill, twice as fast, weights about half and it has a variable speed trigger. It also has an electronic clutch and for the money I paid, I could not be more happy with the the change.

Around the time the Dewalt 20V Max tools came out I went though my cordless tools and sold those I could. There really was not anything wrong with them but the cost of maintaining so many battery platforms was not worth it. Although I made a fairly large investment long term it needed to be done.

I guess the point of my post, is that it's not always easy to walk away from an investment in a tool, but in some cases the right answer may be to just cut you loses.

Yeah Anadevi, fixing a tool is often times much cheaper than just replacing it.  It may take time finding the parts (for example, my Black and Decker Air inflator) but it's much cheaper than buying a new unit usually.

Finding original parts if they are discontinued can be somewhat easy or exceptionally challenging.  Challenging to the point where the average person may find it impossible with some older tools.   

But talking about your tool, if they are about to discontinue the switch and if your current switch is on it's way out, I highly recommend buying a back up (of the original) if it's still sold.  As I am quickly learning with my tools, that is easily the most important aspect of any power tool.  Even the Festool's and Hilti's tools are like that as well.

Glad I could help though Anadevi.

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