Jump to content

Good Lubricants.


PutnamEco

Recommended Posts

After the discusion over in power tools, I wonder if you all are into good lubricants, and what goo and spray you use to keep things going.

A few goods one that I have found are.

DuPonts Krytox Is absolutely the best lubricant out there. It is inert, non flamable, very little change in viscosity due to temperature. withstands heat. The only problem is it is silly expensive. If you have something that you life depends on being lubricated, this is the stuff you want to use.

Now back to what works in real life and is affordable for daily use.

Stihls high-performance gear lubricant is what I like to use on my power tools gearcases and my string trimmer for that matter too. I find it withstands the stresses put upon it well, it lasts a fairly long time and can withstand a pretty hot working environment that a typical tools gearcase is, and it cleans up well when it is time to be cleaned out.

Hondas moly paste. Is an exceptional light grease that can be found at any Honda dealer. I use this for all my low speed grease applications such as pivot points and to lubricate ratcheting mechanisms

B'laster The Dry Lube and the very similar product by DuPont Multi-Use Lubricant is my first choice in spray lubricants, I use this for things like the pinion gears on my tablesaws and other places that I want lubricated and don't want sawdust to stick to as well. These lubes also work well on chains. Beware, this lube WILL effect some wood finishes adversly.

AGSs Lock-Ease is my preferred graphite spray lubricant. More and more I have been using B'lasters dry lube on locks and I've been having very good success with it.

When I really need a lot of dry graphite I head down to my John Deere dealer and pick up a container of their Powdered Graphite which is probably more than most people will use in a lifetime, for about $5, a lot better deal than those silly little tubes you can get in the hardware store. (it is normally used on round balers and occasionally on seed drills)

Triflow is a medium weight oil that I use when I want a little more staying power than a light oil

Lily White sewing machine oil is a really good light machine oil, available in larger quantities at a better price than the local hardware stores for those that need it

I trust you all know to use WD-40 as a water displacement cleaner as it is NOT a very long lasting lubricant. 3-In-One oil works better as a lubricant, I can't really recommend it for any specific purpose, but it does work when nothing else is at hand.

I use Mobil Rarus 427 oil in my compressors.

Bel-Ray H1-R is the best oil to use in you two stroke engines as it has a low carbon content and makes cleaning your engine up for a rebuilt a piece of cake, as well is keeping it running for a long time before you need to rebuild it. I have found stuck rings to be a frequent cause of engine malfunctions and this oil helps to keep the rings free. If your really adventurous and know our way around engines well enough to adjust the jetting on your engine to suit a new oil ratio, it can be mixed and run at 100:1 with little to no adverse affects.

My cutting oil of choice is Monroes Astro-Cut synthetic

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My wife prefers astroglide......oh, wait a minute.... :lol:

But seriously,

Though WD-40 is more versatile, I've found that for penetrating purposes S'OK (most of us just call it Soak) is far better. It tends to get a little tacky as it dries, so I wouldn't really recommend it as a lubricant, but it does a fantastic job of penetrating.

http://www.shamrockspecialties.net/sok.html

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Though WD-40 is more versatile, I've found that for penetrating purposes S'OK (most of us just call it Soak) is far better. It tends to get a little tacky as it dries, so I wouldn't really recommend it as a lubricant, but it does a fantastic job of penetrating.

For something that can be purchased at the corner store, I've found that PB Blaster works pretty well, however both Kroil and Mouse Milk I believe are better products. Mouse Milk being the least noxious to me.

I haven’t come across S'ok before, I'll have to give it a try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

A.C.F 50 is good gear. :)

What experience have you had with this product? Does it last as long as Boeshield T9? How does it compare with CorrosionX? I haven't tried it yet, but have been looking for an excuse.

A word to other readers, these are corrosion inhibitors, not really single purpose lubricants.

company link.

http://www.learchem....cts/acf-50.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought some for my Brother to use on his motorbike and he has been very happy.

We sprayed a bit on a patch of rust on an old work van I have and the rust has just stopped dead in it's tracks.

I wasn't too concerned or giving it much thought at the time I knew Sean wanted the spray so i just bought it for him, but I have noticed that even months later the rust has not got any worse.

That may not impress those who do not know where I live but in the North of England with our rain anything that can stop rust like that is some product.

Did not re apply or take any care putting it on just a casual spot the rusty bit, lid off can and a two second blast and that was it. :)

Apparently it is also a pretty good lubricant for things that do not get too hot,and even brings up some trim components.

They also make a grease that acts as an even better barrier but have not used it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a constant battle with rust here in Florida as well, due to our high humidity and frequent rain. Our summers here are 80% humidity and daily afternoon thundershowers and our daily temperature swing through the dew point doesn't help either. For most of my larger scale rust projects I use a product called Ospho. It chemically transforms the rust to ferric phosphate. I'm a really big fan of Boeshield T9 for things that have not rusted yet. It leaves a thin waxy coating that lasts until it is physically removed. It is the only thing keeping my stationary tools rust free. It is easier to apply than paste wax, which is what I would normally use if I didn't have to deal with this weather down here. Boeshield also make a product for rust removal Rust Free,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The good thing about that A.C.F 50 is the U.S navy have used it on aircraft on carriers so you know it must work and it is just spray and go.

WD40 was made for use on rockets, I believe the Navy has been purchaseing it by the 55 gallon drum for shipboard use. Boeshield is made by Boeing for use on the aircraft, some of the same aircraft the Navy uses. CorrosionX has some similar claims.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing to consider with corrosion inhibitors is that some of them have the ability to transfer onto the surface of the material that you are working on. This can play havoc when it comes time to finish your project. Products that contain silicone are notorious for playing havoc with water borne finishes.

Fish eyes suck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Member Statistics

    18,196
    Total Members
    6,555
    Most Online
    mattyuk
    Newest Member
    mattyuk
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...