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"Do not buy" thread


BMack37

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2 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:

Another thing is the quick out screw remover system, total garbage... All it does is strip the screw out more

This brand the speed out...

Jimbo

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The exact reason I was soo happy to find that the engineer pliers existed. I've had that idea for years after trying to use slip joints to remove a stripped screw. For flat mounted screws I started using left handed drill bits, at worse, if it doesn't bite and start to screw out you're drilling it out.

 

Some people love these things, they claim you have to go very slow for them to work...I've tried and I can't get them to bite if my life depended on it.

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Really? I use them all the time with success. Same brand and everything. I even pulled an exhaust stud out with one of the same brands as pictured. You could try a flute extractor instead or an Irwin easy out.

I have Irwin flutes and left hand twist bits, also I have engineer screw extractors I use befor drilling it out first.

Jimbo

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39 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

Really? I use them all the time with success. Same brand and everything. I even pulled an exhaust stud out with one of the same brands as pictured. You could try a flute extractor instead or an Irwin easy out.

 

Think we could talk you into a video demonstration next time you come across a stripped screw? If it's not flush mounted the screw extraction pliers come out but those flush mounted keep screaming at me that there has to be a better way.

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Think we could talk you into a video demonstration next time you come across a stripped screw? If it's not flush mounted the screw extraction pliers come out but those flush mounted keep screaming at me that there has to be a better way.

Yeah sure thing. The last time I used them was on some 1/4" bolts I sheared on a sprocket hub a month or two ago. I'll see if I can force a need for these so I can demonstrate.

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3 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:

Another thing is the quick out screw remover system, total garbage... All it does is strip the screw out more

This brand the speed out...

1712944b995878f979aa35f1434146af.jpg

Jimbo

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is this one of those things that come with a life time supply of band aids if you order now......

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19 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

Yeah sure thing. The last time I used them was on some 1/4" bolts I sheared on a sprocket hub a month or two ago. I'll see if I can force a need for these so I can demonstrate.

 

Honestly, I'm in no rush at all. They're just sitting there, I'm mostly curious and want to see someone that is intelligent explain it. It would be nice to put a current paperweight to use.

 

I've actually tried two different types of these sets. One Speedout, which I returned. Now I have a set I picked up at Sears after reading some people say they worked...I couldn't get them to work at all. I'm wondering if it's the hardware I'm using it. I tried getting it to bite with a drill on slow and with a hand driver, no dice.

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It may just not work on your applications. The fasteners I use them aren't high torque applications so it is more a matter of just having a little bit of grip like small screws that are in distributors or small bolts and studs that shear off and don't have much stretch in the bolt. The exhaust stud is the one that still surprises me.

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2 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

It may just not work on your applications. The fasteners I use them aren't high torque applications so it is more a matter of just having a little bit of grip like small screws that are in distributors or small bolts and studs that shear off and don't have much stretch in the bolt. The exhaust stud is the one that still surprises me.

 

Mine are almost always small screws in electronics because that's what I do for work. Torque varies, it should be low torque but sometimes it's not because offshore manufacturing.

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50 minutes ago, BMack37 said:

 

Honestly, I'm in no rush at all. They're just sitting there, I'm mostly curious and want to see someone that is intelligent explain it. It would be nice to put a current paperweight to use.

 

I've actually tried two different types of these sets. One Speedout, which I returned. Now I have a set I picked up at Sears after reading some people say they worked...I couldn't get them to work at all. I'm wondering if it's the hardware I'm using it. I tried getting it to bite with a drill on slow and with a hand driver, no dice.

Mine didn't make it to paper weight status... they did make a nice projectile on their way to the "shit can"

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Just now, JimboS1ice said:

Mine didn't make it to paper weight status... they did make a nice projectile on their way to the "shit can"

 

I'm actually using mine to level out the precision files and picks (that rest on the files). The case for the left handed drill bits is a little short to provide a good base for the files/picks, haha.

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Another thing is the quick out screw remover system, total garbage... All it does is strip the screw out more

This brand the speed out...

1712944b995878f979aa35f1434146af.jpg

Jimbo

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And they will take 3-5 weeks for delivery from Shanghai.

John, Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[emoji848]

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Honestly, I'm in no rush at all. They're just sitting there, I'm mostly curious and want to see someone that is intelligent explain it. It would be nice to put a current paperweight to use.

 

I've actually tried two different types of these sets. One Speedout, which I returned. Now I have a set I picked up at Sears after reading some people say they worked...I couldn't get them to work at all. I'm wondering if it's the hardware I'm using it. I tried getting it to bite with a drill on slow and with a hand driver, no dice.

Turns out these are grabit brand. So I came across a seized bolt that the PO had snapped off in the exhaust manifold. I knew the odds weren't in my favor, but I thought, "Hey, wouldn't it be impressive if this worked" Don't discount these things. This was a size too small and the only way this could have come out would be with a torch and a flute extractor. Long story short you guys owe me a new set and stay tuned for take two.

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3 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

Turns out these are grabit brand. So I came across a seized bolt that the PO had snapped off in the exhaust manifold. I knew the odds weren't in my favor, but I thought, "Hey, wouldn't it be impressive if this worked" Don't discount these things. This was a size too small and the only way this could have come out would be with a torch and a flute extractor. Long story short you guys owe me a new set and stay tuned for take two.

well dry fused broke bolt, you have about 9 things against you or the bit. heat may have help or penetrating oil for a while. impact gun or drill is not best to use either.....

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well dry fused broke bolt, you have about 9 things against you or the bit. heat may have help or penetrating oil for a while. impact gun or drill is not best to use either.....

Yeah but it was about the best $1 entertainment I've had in a while. It's staying in there as a fused bolt is the last of my problems. f60b206e526de3bc247bb56b32bc8c02.jpg Cleaned with M12 rotary tool cbdd69bde9c61759fdc159316287c42a.jpg and temp JB weld bandaid untill it gets replaced. e06c06a82caa597d78411a8cf6c3186c.jpg

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13 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

Turns out these are grabit brand. So I came across a seized bolt that the PO had snapped off in the exhaust manifold. I knew the odds weren't in my favor, but I thought, "Hey, wouldn't it be impressive if this worked" Don't discount these things. This was a size too small and the only way this could have come out would be with a torch and a flute extractor. Long story short you guys owe me a new set and stay tuned for take two.

 

I'm counting that as a win there, it grabbed. I think Lowe's sells singles rather cheap, I think their singles are the Grabit. What size? I'll hook ya up with a replacement. I need to go to Lowe's for a return anyway.

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I'm counting that as a win there, it grabbed. I think Lowe's sells singles rather cheap, I think their singles are the Grabit. What size? I'll hook ya up with a replacement. I need to go to Lowe's for a return anyway.

Lol, don't worry about it. I love pushing cheap tools past their reasonable limits. The whole set is like $3 and so I still feel like I came out on top as I've gotten my use and then some out of these guys.

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6 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

Yeah but it was about the best $1 entertainment I've had in a while. It's staying in there as a fused bolt is the last of my problems. f60b206e526de3bc247bb56b32bc8c02.jpg Cleaned with M12 rotary tool cbdd69bde9c61759fdc159316287c42a.jpg and temp JB weld bandaid untill it gets replaced. e06c06a82caa597d78411a8cf6c3186c.jpg

why wouldn't you weld it, easy to do just start engine so cast is at least 100F or just warm enough to touch short 1" long welds and peen each time.....repeat until finished keep cast warm as long as you can to cool down.....Lincoln Ferroweld is a good nickel type rod to use....

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6 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

Lol, don't worry about it. I love pushing cheap tools past their reasonable limits. The whole set is like $3 and so I still feel like I came out on top as I've gotten my use and then some out of these guys.

 

If you can teach me how to use my paperweight, it's worth more than $3 to me...The Craftsman set is like $30. It has what looks like(feels like) more aggressive teeth than the Speedout. I have heard the Grabit was better than the Speedout.

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why wouldn't you weld it, easy to do just start engine so cast is at least 100F or just warm enough to touch short 1" long welds and peen each time.....repeat until finished keep cast warm as long as you can to cool down.....Lincoln Ferroweld is a good nickel type rod to use....

I like the way you think man. I thought about it and decided against it for a few reasons. First being that it went all the way around back and would have required me to take it out first. Second, all I have at home is my little MIG and I would have had to grab some nickel wire to use a welder who's power level would be sketchy on thick material or run to work and grab the welding rig that I use and buy some nickel rod like you said and it would be a hassle. It was easier for me to use the half stuck of JB weld I had left over and call it good as my brother wants to replace it with a SS header anyway. The guys at work have successfully used drilled and tapped JB Weld putty on cast manifolds at work to repair broken turbo mounting points on the Kenworths so I figured it would work for a Honda. That being said, I still would really like to weld it together once it gets scrapped as I have never welded cast before and would like to acquire the skill so I may have some questions for you in the future.

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