jon burgess Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 why does my trunnion tilt when in lock position? i have lubricate 3 time. there is a screw that goes through the middle to hold it. if i over tighten the bolt it will not tilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 You get this figured out? I'm trying to puzzle over your words to no avail, can you put up pics sometime showing how you resolved it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peroxwhygen Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 if it's to loose the nut in back will slip off when the motor is on but if it's to tight it will not move Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 1 hour ago, peroxwhygen said: if it's to loose the nut in back will slip off when the motor is on but if it's to tight it will not move Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It looks like on those super old school machines that the way to lock it is to tighten the bolt all the way down so it can't move and then you have to loosen it and retighten each time you adjust the tilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon burgess Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 i have my first project with my table saw. the instructions says to set the rip fence to 1 1/2in i do not have a tape measure on my saw like you see on a Stopsaw, so how will i be able to do this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 15 minutes ago, jon burgess said: i have my first project with my table saw. the instructions says to set the rip fence to 1 1/2in i do not have a tape measure on my saw like you see on a Stopsaw, so how will i be able to do this Take any tape measure and measure the distance between the fence and the very edge of the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peroxwhygen Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 is this what you mean or does it need to move a little bit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 16 minutes ago, peroxwhygen said: is this what you mean or does it need to move a little bit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It looks perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonylandin Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 I'm not to sure please crew correct me but should the 1 1/2" be between the blade and the fence so that the material you are cutting is an inch and a half wide otherwise the material will be "short". From a fan of tools with lots of assistance from Siri #TIACREW 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 20 minutes ago, tonylandin said: I'm not to sure please crew correct me but should the 1 1/2" be between the blade and the fence so that the material you are cutting is an inch and a half wide otherwise the material will be "short". From a fan of tools with lots of assistance from Siri #TIACREW Yeah that's exactly right. In the picture it looked like that's how he had it but my phone screen is dim and it's bright out so I may be seeing it wrong. For sure shouldn't be to the far edge of the blade or center. It should be to the inside edge of the blade measured at the tip of a tooth, I.e. the widest part of the blade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 By inside edge I mean edge closest to the fence. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peroxwhygen Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 https://vimeo.com/167452272 he's the video version of what I am making. I like to use the 1 1/2in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 https://vimeo.com/167452272 he's the video version of what I am making. I like to use the 1 1/2in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You want the 1-1/2" then make sure thats the SPACE between the fence and the teeth of the blade... and if you're still in doubt, make a test cut first, and measure that with your tape as normal Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon burgess Posted May 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 as i was truing up the ends on my cutting board to make it into an end grain cutting board the belt slipped off. as most of you know i put on a new belt. why would it slip off? i have notice after making a few cuts the belt is pretty warm to the touch. also if this matter is the motor is also very hot. there is not bearings behind the saw blade. im 99.9% sure i installed it on the pulley correctly because you can tell when its not on the pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon burgess Posted May 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 i also get a burning like small when i cut the wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 Just let it burn and start a regular BBQ!! If the belt is as loose as your video shows still, then it needs to be tightened. Did you put on different size pulleys than was with it originally? Does the burning seem to be coming from the wood, or the motor? Check for scorch marks on the wood, or a wisp of smoke from the motor (that would be bad) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon burgess Posted May 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 the smell seems to be from the belt or the motor. there are new bearings in the motor. (but its still is a 65 year old motor) new bearings or not. i did not replace the original pulleys because they looked fine. the video i uploaded did not have a blade attach to it once i add the blade the belt did not wobble . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 2 hours ago, jon burgess said: the smell seems to be from the belt or the motor. there are new bearings in the motor. (but its still is a 65 year old motor) new bearings or not. i did not replace the original pulleys because they looked fine. the video i uploaded did not have a blade attach to it once i add the blade the belt did not wobble . Check the number on your belt. It is going to be something like B49 or some other thing like that. It will be in the format of B## where those two numbers are the length. Go to your local belt supplier and pick up a high quality belt for cogged pulleys. It will be in the format of BX## where the two numbers following the BX should be the same as the numbers following the B on your previous belt. I have found that in situations where everything isn't quite ideal these will actually grip the pulleys more and slip less. If it continues to smell, I would advise getting new pulleys. You often can't tell a pulley is bad only from a visual inspection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 Check the number on your belt. It is going to be something like B49 or some other thing like that. It will be in the format of B## where those two numbers are the length. Go to your local belt supplier and pick up a high quality belt for cogged pulleys. It will be in the format of BX## where the two numbers following the BX should be the same as the numbers following the B on your previous belt. I have found that in situations where everything isn't quite ideal these will actually grip the pulleys more and slip less. If it continues to smell, I would advise getting new pulleys. You often can't tell a pulley is bad only from a visual inspection. This. Was working on an RTU (roof mounted air conditioner) and the belt must have worn unevenly because the thickness of the belt varied as it went around the pulley, so it would ride in and out of the pulley slightly, bouncing the whole assembly around like mad as it was turning. I wish I grabbed a video of it because it was the craziest thing to watch. It looked perfect, but putting a new belt on fixed it. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercorarius Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 6 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said: Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Those socket rails keep getting more and more credible. @jon burgess this should help you figure out what belt you need. It isn't as common in my work, but since this is small you may have an A## belt that I would exchange for the Tri-power AX## belt. I hope this isn't confusing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 Nice chart sterco. At the end of this, I roll the pulley around. As you can see, the belt rides perfectly even with the outer diameter of the pulley, whereas before the old belt was riding up and down and bouncing the whole thing . As you can see I was play around with the differences between vimeo and YouTube Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peroxwhygen Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 here is what I made with the table saw Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon burgess Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 so i got the sawstop contractor saw for my b-day last month love it. i was thinking turning the old one into a job site saw (like desalts saws) for my work or i need a table saw for a family house . could this work? the base is 13X15 i know i will need a piece of wood for the motor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 On 9/8/2016 at 9:39 PM, jon burgess said: so i got the sawstop contractor saw for my b-day last month love it. i was thinking turning the old one into a job site saw (like desalts saws) for my work or i need a table saw for a family house . could this work? the base is 13X15 i know i will need a piece of wood for the motor I dont get it, tell us what you have in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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