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Milwaukee Gen 2 Impact


JimboS1ice

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Nice video Jimbo you have just help make my mind up. I'm going for the 3/8 and 1/4 hex one key. I have the brushless hex 1st gen and a brushed hex that is going to to be replaced with the one key. 

 

If anybody wants a deal on a Milwaukee M18 brushed impact. let me know. It will be a deal you can't pass up.:D

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Nice video Jimbo you have just help make my mind up. I'm going for the 3/8 and 1/4 hex one key. I have the brushless hex 1st gen and a brushed hex that is going to to be replaced with the one key. 

 

If anybody wants a deal on a Milwaukee M18 brushed impact. let me know. It will be a deal you can't pass up.[emoji3]

Well really see on the impact fight tomorrow morning.

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Nice video Jimbo you have just help make my mind up. I'm going for the 3/8 and 1/4 hex one key. I have the brushless hex 1st gen and a brushed hex that is going to to be replaced with the one key. 

 

If anybody wants a deal on a Milwaukee M18 brushed impact. let me know. It will be a deal you can't pass up.[emoji3]

Are you going to post it in the sale section? I'll keep my eye out.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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I use my 2753 for larger screws and self tappers, and my 2450 (m12 brushed impact) is used for sheet metal screws. The 2753 doesn't get the fourth mode used much at all because I was using it to drive in some larger self tappers and it would drop down in power to start hammering, but the screw had a long ways to go yet. It also doesn't work with 3" screws in wood, or screws of about that size, so I hardly used it. 

One thing I started using the fourth mode for is when putting tapcon screws in cement, that works fabulous actually, it can be really easy sometimes to snap the screw, or strip out the concrete when driving those screws in, but it actually works very well to put it in the self tapper mode and not have to worry about a split second miscalculation. If the screw just doesn't seem to want to drive in, and you are afraid of snapping it, remove the screw, and run your concrete bit back in the hole, and out again, in an attempt to clear the hole of residual concrete specks. Then drive the screw back in and that usually takes care of it.

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I use my 2753 for larger screws and self tappers, and my 2450 (m12 brushed impact) is used for sheet metal screws. The 2753 doesn't get the fourth mode used much at all because I was using it to drive in some larger self tappers and it would drop down in power to start hammering, but the screw had a long ways to go yet. It also doesn't work with 3" screws in wood, or screws of about that size, so I hardly used it. 

One thing I started using the fourth mode for is when putting tapcon screws in cement, that works fabulous actually, it can be really easy sometimes to snap the screw, or strip out the concrete when driving those screws in, but it actually works very well to put it in the self tapper mode and not have to worry about a split second miscalculation. If the screw just doesn't seem to want to drive in, and you are afraid of snapping it, remove the screw, and run your concrete bit back in the hole, and out again, in an attempt to clear the hole of residual concrete specks. Then drive the screw back in and that usually takes care of it.

Yes agreed the precision modes are good for shorter screws, anything north of 2" my patience runs out

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10 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:

Good night a half gallon of maple syrup costs more than that..... ok why did I compare it to maple syrup.. i have no idea ha

You must like maple syrup if you can rifle off the cost of half a gallon...

 

...thats a lot of syrup

 

And thats a steal for that impact!

 

 

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You must like maple syrup if you can rifle off the cost of half a gallon...

 

...thats a lot of syrup

 

And thats a steal for that impact!

 

 

Indeed. One gallon is $46 and a quart is $14

My uncle makes it on a large scale in Michigan and we grew up on it

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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