Grumpy MSG
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Posts posted by Grumpy MSG
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The DeWALT DWE7490X is only slightly larger, comes with an X stand, which you could leave off and tuck behind a cabinet or bench to use later. It can run a dado stack, however it is in that $500 range you don't want to pay. Perhaps you should consider going the pawn shop/ Craigslist route for a table saw for now and save up the $500 or more for a new saw later (deals can be had on Black Friday in November as well as periodic times throughout the year). If it were me, I'd stick to DeWALT, Makita or Bosch for the table saw.
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Hate on the Porter-Cables if you want but their meat and potatoes tools forever have been routers and sanders. the big differences between today's 690s and those from 20 years ago are a dust sealed switch and more ergonomic knobs. Norm Abrams used one countless times on the New Yankee workshop. Meanwhile the 890s have an extra 1/2 HP and a few other nice features like an easy big adjustment/ micro-adjustment feature and 2 location switch, but can work with the same bases as the 690s. Both the 690s and 890s have multiple numbers 690, 691, 692 which annotate which accessories cone with the router like fixed base, plunge base, D handle and combo kits. Don't think they are tough? walk into a Woodcraft store see what routers they are using for their classes and see how old they are.
if you insist you don't want the P-C though, Makita, DeWALT and Bosch all make nice routers. As for features, If I were going for one router I'd recommend one in the 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 HP range with variable speed, 1/4" and 1/2" collets and get it in a kit with a fixed and plunge bases. A little bit of work on your part and you should be able to hit your price point with a kit like that. If you wanted to add to that later, a trim router in the 1 HP range would be the next addition for roundover, laminate trimming and small work. If I were to get a third, it would probably be a second 1 3/4- 2 1/4 HP or 3 HP (depends on what size bits you want to use most often) specifically to leave mounted in a router table
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Since it is DeWALT, and it keeps the same specifications. It could keep the same model number and get a type number change. Just remember when DeWALT came out with the Bluetooth batteries they kept the same model number and added a B to it.
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With a reciprocating saw, as a practical matter you can only have an orbital function or the 4 way blade system. I believe that DeWALT should offer the saws with either function available, just give it a different model number. That would just allow them to get a bigger slice of the market.
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1 hour ago, Cr8ondt said:
Shining example of one of the few unbastardized PC tools remaining... You sir have a fine router there.
I don't have the Jessem lift, but I run the PC 892 with a Kreg portable table and love it. I haven't got it installed yet but will be adding the Oneida router hood to help with dust control on the bottom side when doing dadoes.
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I just got an email from DeWALT announcing the DCF894 mid-range impact wrench, it says it has a max torque of 330 ft-lbs. The email mentions it joins the 1/2 inch DCF899 (with a max torque of 700 ft-lbs) and the 3/8 inch DCF890 with 150 ft-lbs of max torque.
I don't see myself buying one since I don't turn wrenches for a living anymore, so my old Ingersoll Rand will eventually run with a FlexVolt compressor once every blue moon in the future should I need an impact in the future.
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Call me crazy, but having your stuff stolen 4 times before you are old enough to drink legally is not a good sign. I am going to tell you to think about going a different route. Just taking the list of tools you have mentioned and using the thoughts of either large or small modular boxes like the Ridgid or ToughSystem boxes:
Cordless circular saw -wheeled bottom box
Cordless reciprocating saw and blades -small box
Cordless drill and impact driver + bits -small box
Cordless impact wrench + 1/2" SAE impact socket set -small box
Cordless grinder -small box
You could probably use the open totes which would probably hold more in each box, need fewer small boxes but the same principle would apply.
You could have everything unloaded and in the house in a trip or two and seriously cut down on the theft from vehicles. Another thing to do is to put them in a closet or room out of view of a window in the house, so nobody can see them easily and be tempted by for quick theft opportunity. Another thing you can do, is to start at the closest pawn shop to the house and check all of them within a ten mile radius as quickly as you can for your tools. often you will find pawn shops like to cooperate with local PDs. It doesn't help them to get a reputation for selling stolen goods. Heck, you might find some tools at a price that would be a decent replacement for what was stolen.
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2 hours ago, Jronman said:
the only compatible SB&D tools are DeWALT and MAC.
We could also throw Craftsman and MAC into the mix to make it 7 brands with power tools
You have to throw the Graco airless paint sprayer in there too. I forgot those other lines too. Somebody else had posted about another line in Europe or Australia that were rebranded DeWALTs too.
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When you think about it, Stanley Back and Decker has 18 or 20 volt (I know inside they are the same cells) from Stanley (I haven't ever seen them), Black and Decker, Bostitch (new cordless nailers, and homeowner grade at Walmart), DeWALT and Porter-Cable. So that is 5 different style battery cases if you assume they are all different.
I assume Stanley is either homeowner grade or intended for the European market, Black and Decker and Bostitch at Walmart are homeowner grade, Porter-Cable and Bostitch cordless nailers are toward upper homeowner/ lower contractor grade tools with DeWALT being intended to be the high line for contractors, with some lower grade tools sold on the various black Friday sales.
It would be great if they got to where they had 2 lines of Lithium Ion batteries, one with a lower price for homeowner grade tools and a line that are more durable, tougher with a longer life that I would expect to be a higher price.
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On 1/20/2018 at 7:22 PM, HiltiWpg said:
Depending on your service, a little 60A sub is pretty good for shop tools etc. Unless you need heavy duty welding equipment.
Just make sure you get 2 circuits (minimum) for the bench. I like using a couple of double gang with 2x 20A T-slot receptacles. That way if you pop a breaker you can unplug, move it over and continue. It’s nice to have the ability to run two high amperage tools side by side.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I ran 2 20 amp circuits in the basement shop I have, and spaced the plugs for each circuit a foot or two apart and then about eight feet to to the next pair and so on down the length of the shop. the other trick I did was use color coding for the plugs, one line had grey plugs in grey plates and the other white plugs in grey plates. makes it easy to tell the vacuum is on one circuit and the tablesaw is on the other. The other trick I went with was to label the plates as to the number in the box, to make resetting breakers and adding or moving outlets easy. Since I made those minor improvements, I haven't had to reset a breaker.
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6 hours ago, Framer joe said:
I’m getting into shop tools, bench top combo disc/ belt sander , drill press...anyone have a good model ? Do you buy ...wen...or upgrade to say ...jet...for occasional use ? Any help would be appreciated 😊
I used to go with Delta on those type of tools before Stanley Black and Decker sold the name to another company. A lot of the smaller stuff they made seems to be made by Porter-Cable now with similar construction to the older Delta Shopmaster line.
Since it is for occasional use, I wouldn't hesitate to look around at pawn shops/ used stuff stores and see if any are around. it doesn't take much effort to tell if something was used once or twice and sold or was abused and dumped. You can also look at places like Rockler and Woodcraft. You would be surprised how inexpensive some of the Wood River and Rikon tools are, after that there is always Grizzley to look at. As for benchtop tools, one of my favorites is a spindle sander, I find I go to it before the 1"belt/5" disc sander I have and for that I would recommend going with the Ridgid (I didn't, but would if I had a Mulligan), it is a spindle/ belt sander.
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Here is a couple of thoughts about your questions, You probably saw the Ryobi stuff at Home Depot not Lowe's. If you got a great deal on a Milwaukee combo for work congratulations, they always seem to be a little more expensive around me.
If it were me I'd push the 18 volt DeWALT stuff out to the lawnmower shop and consolidate it out there, right at the moment a pair of 20V MAX batteries, adapter and charger are $99 at my local Home Depot. Another option is to pick up a pair of the NiCad XRPs for the same $99 and you will be good for the next half a dozen years or more. If you go the adapter route later on as tools wear out or you need something new you can start sliding toward the 20V MAX line
I'd push to replace any other stuff at work with Milwaukee and since you have the Bosch drill and driver combo you like, I'd clean it up and pull it back to the house, maybe pick up some other tools that run the same battery along the way.
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An Email just popped into my inbox, Acme has listed the 2 X 20 volt mower for $ 399:
http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/dewalt-dcmw220p2
If my old gas powered mower ever dies, this might get a serious look, no engine to maintain, it takes the same batteries I already have. Seems like it is a little more expensive than a basic gas powered mower, but less than most higher quality mowers.
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23 hours ago, Framer joe said:
@Grumpy MSG....this was basically to explain for “ new “ guys cutting stock....for a rafter cut..it is better to start at the top (ridge ) to keep the line ( length) of the rafter good.....most “new” guys cutting from the bottom to the top (ridge) go way off the line making the rafter either ...shorter or longer.......also all cuts are made on a set of horses...no one ever cuts at the ridge.or on staging .......generally I make All hip, valley,,Basterd hip, jack rafter cuts....but those are all done on horses also....it’s just math......no need to cut on the roof,ever......but I do appreciate your input...
...even an entire Hip Roof ( everything including common rafters, jack rafters,hip rafters) is cut on the ground on horses and a lull lifts it up as a package ..where the guys just assemble my “ kit”..quickly and efficiently...it’s pretty damn cool when other framing companies see a whole roof ( hip) or any roof cut on the ground , stacked ready to go..
I am with you, cut everything on the ground that you can. Awful hard for gravity to kick your ass from the ground versus in the air. What I was trying to say was, you can adapt your cutting technique to the saw you are using and maintain the large part of the shoe on the work piece. If you have your rafter sitting on a sawhorse and you are standing looking down the 2X facing toward the eaves end and you were going to lay it out to cut it with a blade right saw, you would roll it 1/4 turn to the left and mark your rafter with the cut off corner to the right. If you were going to lay it out for a blade left saw you would roll it 1/4 to the right and mark it so your cutoff corner is to the left.
After re-looking at my post, I think you were thinking I was talking about the the ends of the rafters. When I was talking about overhangs, I was talking about sheet goods or if anybody was doings some old school plank or tongue and groove roofing. I have seen plenty of contractors not worry about having perfectly aligned ends and the last thing they did was snap a chalk line and cut the end ensuring the overhang was straight.
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On 12/24/2017 at 5:52 PM, Framer joe said:
@SetBuilder...no up until the 575 we used corded Dewalt circ saw blade right, before that skilsaw blade right, never knew any framer that used blade left or a worm drive. I know dozens of framing companies...nothing against blade left as I have the 577, only for the power....use what works for you. I just don’t get it,it’s the wrong set up for many guys cutting lumber,(2x?) but for plywood it’s fine. ..there are certain ways to cut a line for a rafter,stairs,engineered lumber,etc...
let me give one example...for a novice...cutting a rafter (ridge cut) if he cuts with a blade left saw (blade is on the right side of the line)from the bottom of the line to the top of the ridge ,he will bind the blade cutting to the ridge,making a bad top(ridge) cut making the rafter shorter or longer, why ? The body (heavy weight) of the saw is hanging off the stock. If he cuts from the top to the bottom he has no line of sight,through the body with the body resting on the stock.
But...with a blade right saw (much lighter). Starting at the top,(keeping the rafter the right length) the blade is on the left of the line with clear visibility ..cutting to the bottom line. Using a “drop in” method which means, raising the saw body up only cutting a 1/2” or so deep for the length of the blade,then dropping the saw down. This starts your cut about halfway perfect then just finish the cut...or from the bottom to the top,body of the saw is on the stock and use the same method.....many guys on a crew, most are not experienced,that’s just framing...so many techniques are used to help ensure quality work, this is one....I’m quite sure a pro framer can cut that line perfect with a worm drive.......I can go on...but that’s one reason...
You could make that cut with the opposite bladed saw keeping the majority of the shoe on the cut just by flipping the cut. take the diagram as you drew and make it a mirror image with the ridge point on the left and the bottom wide angle corner on the right.
Personally, I believe you should have both a blade left and a blade right saw available. The example I use is cutting the overhangs on roof on the end of a house. I would argue that you are safer pushing the saw up the roof toward the ridge than you are being on the ridge pushing down toward the gutter. If you are looking up at the roof you can cut the left side with a blade left and the right side with a blade right. go to the other side of the house and do it again. the second example is when cutting the ends of deck boards which are installed parallel to the side of the house. you can keep the big part of the shoe on the deck in both cases and cut toward the house, because trying to to a plunge cut on one end right next to the house just isn't the easy way to do it.
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4 hours ago, Bill539 said:
So my wife hooked me up this Christmas and made the decision for me! She bought the 60v saw. Problem is, the first time I locked the fence in place, the linkage snapped! Pretty surprised they used such cheap material. Anybody happen to know what that part is called. I know I can warranty it but if I can replace it with actual metal I’d rather do that. Thanks fellas.
Look at the threads on that piece closely, if one end has left hand threads and the other right hand threads, it would be a turnbuckle. I'd just contact DeWALT and get the part through them and their warranty.
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Merry Ho Ho!!!
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11 hours ago, SetBuilder said:
Don't the majority of framers use worm drive saws, and aren't the majority of them left blade? What have you been using through the years?
On the east coast the majority of framers are sidewinder fans. You don''t see a ton of Skil 77s out here.
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It didn't really start with the left or right blade. The regional thing tends to be more about the sidewinder versus the worm drive. It just so happens that most of the sidewinders started out with the blade on the right and the worm drives with the blade on the left. Explaining how the 6 1/2" cordless tended to end up blade left instead of right is the curiosity to me. Apparently it was midwest made Skil's 77 out west and Porter-Cables from Connecticut
Either way I prefer to have both left and right blade saws available to me. I always want the big part of the shoe on the well supported wood, while the small part is over the cut off. For a long time that meant 6 1/2" cordless for left and 7 1/4" corded for right. Now that I have a track saw (DeWALT corded) as well as the 7 1/4" DeWALT 20V Max blade right saw and a 6 1/2" DeWALT blade left saws I am pondering parting ways with my Milwaukee Tilt-Lock saw (I am surprised they never put that feature on their cordless saws). I haven't tried the new 7 1/4" cordless saw yet, but I have a feeling that right after New Years it will start cutting a little bit.
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It depends on the tasks I am doing. When it comes to automotive tools, I have a large Craftsman rolling tool box. I tend to sort the tools by standard tools in some drawers with metric in other drawers. With sockets and ratchets I tend keep the ratchets and extensions with the standard sockets and the metrics are in a slightly smaller drawers.
For a long time, I tried to get a hard case with each tool and tried to store them in their cases. I have evolved to liking the modular stackable cases like TSTAKs, ToughSystem and the new Milwaukee boxes. I have several of the older ToughSystem drawer units and look forward to seeing what the new drawers will be like. I have become a fan of Ron Paulk on YouTube and seeing his various trailers and trucks as well as his portable workbench system, so there may be some ideas copied and modified from that for storage in my basement shop in the near future. Meanwhile I will probably use some ToughSystem boxes and totes to move stuff, when I have to do projects away from the basement.
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4 hours ago, FlaveNico said:
Companies should just throw a bag in with the purchase of tools with a hard case. Yes I’m being greedy but I can hope.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProIf companies did that, the bag's cost would be added into the price of the tool.
Nothing is free, somebody pays for it. Companies always pass the costs on, whether it is taxes, materials or labor.
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It all depends on the store and how they handle sales. For my local Home Depots, if it is a special item/ packaging it will get a couple of markdowns until they are all sold. When the quantity gets low enough it will get moved to the regular clearance area. For example the DeWALT clamps 4 packs will be put into regular stock in the store that routinely stocks them. In the one that doesn't stock the 4 pack they will mark it down a couple of times until they are all sold. It is the same way that stores that were not stocking the FlexVolt table saws marking them down until they were all sold. Some stores might sell out after the first markdown others may take 2 or more markdowns before they are gone. The question you have to ask is how bad do you want/ need something. If you hold out for a bargain, it might be gone before you buy it or you might get a great deal. Last year the small DeWALT blower and bluetooth speaker were $99, by around February 1st, I got both for $49 each because they just didn't move that quickly. I wasn't really looking to buy them, but eventually the price got to be worth it.
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2 hours ago, Jronman said:
would this work without needing to plug into a tool activated vac?
You would need to plug it into the tool activated plug on the vacuum/ dust collector.
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On 12/14/2017 at 1:15 PM, Jronman said:
the way I see it is the corded has 2 cords/hoses to deal with vs only one on the cordless.
If you use the cord management clips on the DeWALT, the Festool hose/cord set-up, or use a little ingenuity, the cord/hose act like a single item and you pull the trigger and the dust collection fires up at the same time.
What tools did you buy today?
in Power Tools
Posted
My 735 is mounted on one with the rollers and all it takes to make it look like it belongs is a piece of Unistrut/ Kentdorf (available at Home Depot for @ $20) and a couple of bolts and spring nuts. Throw in a little black spray paint and poof it looks like a factory kit.