Andrull
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Posts posted by Andrull
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2 minutes ago, Hugh Jass said:
Then they've never had to grind thin set off a slab with a diamond grinding cup. 9 seconds in and I can't see my hand in front of my face.
Hehe, would guess so.
Neither have I though, but then again, I can see the use for this. ^^ Perhaps it's their plan altogether. First a basic brushless model, and afterwards with a couple of functions added. Make you buy both. -
14 minutes ago, Hugh Jass said:
I have both, almost never use my corded grinder, and when I do it's because I need the variable speed (praying for this feature on the update cordless).
But I also have 10 batteries...so...
Yupp, given that they even have brushless motors theese days, means that they already have the computer on board and circuty needed for it already. All they need is just add a potmeter and a some other small changes.
Though, the cordless grinders do have a bit lower RPM by default, so they might think that we don't need any lower? -
Hope they serve you well.
But they are not exactly metall drilling bits, so even if they survive, they probably take a beating with some bruises. But being self feeding, they keep on going. So if you can avoid the nail, I still really recommend doing so.
And screws (hardened steel) is pretty much game over. Xd
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I use the tormek system. Swedish design, but probably not unfamiliar. Iy's a whole system, where you can sharpen a bunch of things, including knifes, and more importantly to a set angle and therefore the same quality each time.
You don't need to have a tormek watercooled grinder, since they also sell the SS metall bar and attachment (for knives for example) to use with any grinder (preferable watercooled). Since heat would destroy the edge.
It is not magic and not automated, but an easy system which helps a lot making good edges.
I though a lot more people use it, but not sure how known they are in the sharpening industry in US. In europe at least, tormek are fairly known to make high quality sharpening stuff.
Me myself use it to sharpen drill bits far sharper than original (4 faucets), small and large knives, scissors, axes, and even carbide things.
If you want the whole thing with all the attachement, it will cost you a bit, but for your needs, it might not be much at all.
:-)
And to be fair, it is very fun.
And still got the potensial to make anything from bad to excellent. Given how previse you do it. So, it is not an automated system to give you OK result.
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I have the EU version of the "Bosch MRC23EVSK" , and it is great. Awesome grip and control. Powerfull motor with low vibrations, good soft start and generally no troubles. Gold contracts, good, long, solid and soft cable, nice speed control, and very stable RPM with varying load.
Awesome with possibility to adjust distance from underside (don't need this expensive function on the router table).Could get a better/stable plunge measurement (distance). Nothing major and problematic, but is not as detailed/accurate as the micrometer adjustor.
I'd say the bosch is a very solid choice at least.
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Same thing here in norway. And we aren't even part of the European Union. Though, usually have a lot of the same equipment and laws.
But a law for too high functionality would be weird.
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It might smoke the poor 10,8V EC bosch drill. It doesn't seem to have any (good) cutout.
Any powerfull drill, like my makita (or MW fuel), would eat it for dinner. Even in second gear, 1/2" wouldn't bother it. And my augers (not including the speedbores) is not especially more demanding than the daredevils. But they are slower. The speedbores are more demanding, and is as quick, but has more controll. And why buy powerfull drills if you use it with only very easy tasks? The corded drill's really isn't any more powerfull. 650 W VS 710W difference, but since it doesn't have gears, it's torque is a lot less. Making the motor strugle much more. Since it either will run at a higher power than rated, or just have less power.
Also, drills in that high-end class all have a pretty agressive cutout if the current/torque goes too high.
Probably the worst things to do to my drills is using them with thick steel 316 SS plates and a step drill bit. Running it at 1/5 of max speed in first gear. That would give it little cooling, and high amp-draw. You can feel the heat, and a bit smell that it has been hard at work. With augers, I run it at max speed at 2. cond gear. Won't even get the time to heat up. Large augers at full speed in 1. gear.So I'm just saying, the daredevils are very good spade bits/flat bits, but not a replacer for augers/speedbores. And use them for more awkward sizes you don't use every day is also somthing I myself do.
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Haha, awesome!
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The daredevil bits certainly is a lot cheaper. And it is an very efficient design, in several ways. But I still prefer the speedbores. It's just like they ofer a more "refined" drilling/more control. Like an auger. So it is kind of a different ball game with auger-like bits and the much lighter, smaller and cheaper inherent design of the flat bits.
My brother, in the electrical trades, throws away all his daredevil bits and most augers for each house he installs the wiring in. I would be certain that he could use an harder and better bit would see more than one use. So I'm not sure if it really is more affordable in the end. It might, or it might not. But certainly feels better, and gives a little neater finish.
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600 rpm no-load in first gear. Thats pretty sweet at least.
And the compact metal chuck really suits it.
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Wow all these tool purchases really came in handy!
That's what my wife said today about all my dewalt gear....
Thats the dream, man!
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Seems like they are a bit harder to find in stock in us. Not sure how expensive it will be buying from amazon.com or ebay?:
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Im assuming that thats the Europe version of the speed bores?
Dunno what you guys over seas got in your warehouses, but the two of them is not just similar versions. Becouse there is ton of difference on the silver ("power) ones, and the blue ones. (I have both)
And here in europe, they sell them side by side. The silver, of course being the most expensive, and the blue being the cheap.
The blue ones is just as quick, have 1/4" hex and might have a little bit less of tearout, but have a soft cutting edge, just as most other spade/wood bits.
The silvery ones, with the grey tip are of much harder steel (or hardened a lot more). And uses a more powerfull 3/8" HEX shank (exception being the 14mm). But since it is made to not break down on nails, it doesn't have the "side-cutters" that cuts the back surface of the wood when exiting, making it have a little more tear-out. But all in all, it may save you some dollar in the long run, if you are drilling a lot of holes.
But be carefull of screws, that gives them a real beating. GIven that they are hardened too. Not buttersoft like nails.
Edit: I remember that my semi-cheap tin-coated spade bits died completly trying to cut through 1mm of alu... Was a bit surpriced.
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If you want less sharpening, I'd recommend the way harder, Irwin groove power.
I have both bosch, blue groove and the little borther speedbore, and the groove power
Even goes through nails. But not screws! Damaged one of mine and tried sharpening with file. You could really feel the steel tips being a lot harder.
The hardened part is indicated.
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The irwin marple high-impact chisels combined with the Tormek T4/T7 and you got yourself insanely sharp and good chisels. Just remember to set a higher sharping-angle if you are to use it for construction and a steel hammer.
Just got the flat edge sharpening attachement today, and took my chisels for a spin.
Very impressed. Much sharper than brand new. But the 20 degree angle might be a bit lower than orginaly. -
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It does? Wow, what a world we live in.
Could just hook up my 10,8v bosch jacket with 1,2A usb charger to the printer, and swosh, you got an printer-jacket.
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Self feeding bits in 4" size is what this beast would hunger for. :-D
Ordinary hole saws is in my mind a bit of a hassle.
Also, you need such power to to everything you do in second gear.
Given it is a beast in second gear too. -
Cant look up the video right now, but I have been using makitas lock nut. It is also designed to be thightened without any tool.
But to correctly thighten it, you would actually turn the whole grinding/cutting disc. This way, you would get more than enough thightening torque. At least 4-5 times that of just turning the ring.
Me myself havent experienced that it would untighten or loosen up in any way at least.
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You sure? Haven't checked the power consumption, but it can't be much? I was thinking a couple hundred pages maby.An inverter from 20v to 110v ac would be easy, the runtime would be poor though...
Cyan is blue btw
Edit:
And the printers I have seen uses just ordinary dc. 24-30V So you can actually drop the pesky power adapter. Worst case, you would need a dc-dc inverter (boost). Checked on google, and they seem to range in at 10-25w.
Thats 3 hour, even with poor conversion efficiency, and peak current all the time. Juat imagine how many pages you would get. Thousands. :-D
The hardest part would be to inhumanly chop up a 18/20v dewalt power tool to collect the battery connection, and to "glue" it on the printer.
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Hehe, that might be the case. Though, better to have a bent rod, than a broken jaw.
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I know my irwin extension rod has that function, but thats about it. No other bit-holder or impacts that has that kind of function. Even the awesome ones.
Very weird.
But then again, that same function in the irwin also locket up, making me unable to get the bit bit out. A lot of pulling with large hand tools and beating with hammer finaly made it out. XD
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Yeah, same here! WOW. That sounds like an super thing to have. :-DIs a drop in Chuck really a thing ? Im being serious here. Im only knowlegable about Makita and Bosch but those 2 Brands have never ever had an impact in belgium which die not require a sleeve to be pulled forwards to insert a bit.
Im quite amazed at the moment
Paying almost twice the price, I think we europeans should at lest get the functions americans have! Daaaaammmmnnn.
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Whaaat, If the vice dies without even a cheater bar, either that vice must be defect/very bar quality or that man must have been a beast? :-p
Even my cheap vice have had no problem with a cheater bar, and a bent "tightening rod" as a result.
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In theory, I also belive the efficiency goes up. At least it makes sense in my mind. Given it will have twice as many optimal positions that the rotor will have each turn.
And they are a bit more complex to. Though most non-brushless motors in tools were 4-pole theese days.
But they are not exactly metall drilling bits, so even if they survive, they probably take a beating with some bruises. But being self feeding, they keep on going. 
BL 18V and BL 2x18V Recipe saws - Now with Official info !
in Makita
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If possible, measuring the power draw (watt) would be the ultimate word for saying if you get any more power.
Is sure would be very interesting to know.