sawihel
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Posts posted by sawihel
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On 1/16/2020 at 10:02 PM, TomNevell said:
Getting professional plumbing service isn’t difficult now, you can get it anytime whenever you need it. There are many ways through which you can find them for your need like you can select them through references by your friends and relatives or you can find them online. There you’ll read reviews through which it’ll be easy for you to select them. Before hiring any plumber for your need keep some important things in mind so that you will have the best plumbing service during an emergency. After calling them, first thing you need to ask them about their license and certification after that talk to them about their experience and their previous work. From these things, it will be easy to know whether these plumbers are able to handle that particular problem or not as there are many problems that plumbers can deal with. Only experienced and licensed plumbers can deal with those problems easily without creating any mess. They will respond to your problems immediately even if they are busy and always make sure talk to them directly about the problem so that they will explain you everything better and you’ll gain a better understanding of that particular problem. Don’t ever try to hire the first plumber you call, at least go for two to three plumbers and then talk to them one by one emergency plumber. Compare their prices and choose the one with the best quote. If you’re planning for renovation in your home, always sign a contract first and mention all the necessary things in it so that they will do everything right as mentioned in the contract at the given price.
Hi- I was on here ages ago asking a few questions and got some great advice - I now need your help again. I previously wanted to re-train and start up as a Self Employed Sparks but was wary about going in the deep end, I am instead re-starting my old Plumbing business and will soon need some Electrical training. I have got the business going and it's starting to pick up although I am still part time self employed alongside my main IT job. I plan to jump into full time self employed before xmas. Sooner or later I will need to be able to self certify Electrical work so am looking at Part P courses followed by the 17th. I have some practical experience and have picked up some regs and theory - will the 5 day EAL Part P be enough? Who is the best competent persons scheme and how hard are the assessments? I also was wondering what limitations I will have after doing the Defined Part P, is it easy to change this to Full scope later on? When I'm up and running my goal is to offer Domestic Plumbing (without Gas) and Electrical services, I don't want to be turning Electrical work down because I'm not allowed to do it - but can wire in C/H and Showers. Thanks in advance!
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Just now, sawihel said:
Hey everyone.
I'm in the process of purchasing a new property, and as part of the due diligence, I've arranged for a building inspection to be conducted.
However, I'm not entirely sure what to expect from this process. Could anyone who has experience with building inspections shed some light on what typically happens during these inspections?
What are the key areas that inspectors focus on, and are there any red flags I should be particularly vigilant about?
Additionally, how long does a typical building inspections Perth take, and should I plan to be present during the inspection?
Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.
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Hey everyone.
I'm in the process of purchasing a new property, and as part of the due diligence, I've arranged for a building inspection to be conducted.
However, I'm not entirely sure what to expect from this process. Could anyone who has experience with building inspections shed some light on what typically happens during these inspections?
What are the key areas that inspectors focus on, and are there any red flags I should be particularly vigilant about?
Additionally, how long does a typical building inspection take, and should I plan to be present during the inspection?
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On 4/3/2023 at 10:41 AM, wingless said:
Yes, immediate action should be taken to identify and resolve the source(s) for the leak(s).
My prior home had an intermittent persistent leak at one specific location.
Roofing companies were brought in an all wanted to replace the entire intact roof just to fix a problem at this one spot that only saw water when when driven at a specific direction, as it was covered under a larger roof.
My solution was to dig out the black roofing tar / cement at that location. I discovered someone had used several tubes of silicone sealant which prevented adhesion of the roofing tar.
i got this compay peachtreerestorations.com. need reviews about this company
All that was removed and replaced w/ fresh roofing tar and it never leaked again.
Hello. I have a roof valley that leaks quite badly and would love some advice on fixing this as I plan to have a go myself. Where is the water likely to be coming from and will it help if I replacve the felt underneath on that section. Any advice would be most grateful. Thanks
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On 3/26/2018 at 1:08 AM, Eric - TIA said:
I am not sure about the rules. I bought a roll of stickers on Amazon. When I ship something with Lithium batteries, I stick two of these on the outside, one on each side. I have never had a problem.
The sticker says,
Caution
Lithium Metal Battery
Do not load or transport package if damaged.
I think as long as you identify the package on the outside relocation companies near me, your fine.
Hey. tried buying a new battery since having issues with my second-hand one, however, the shipping service I was using won’t send lithium batteries overseas. so I need the returns address for Fairphone or a method of sending this item internationally. Could anyone help, either way?
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On 9/25/2019 at 7:03 PM, paulengr said:
Depends on what the extra protection is for.
Safety toes are in case you drop something big on your foot, nothing more. But they protect the ties, not metatarsals. Metatarsal boots extend this all the way back to your ankle albeit not all that comfortably until recently. Today thanks to a Brit some of them come with D3O which is this awesome foam that makes it just a fat tongue in the boot. Very popular with welders not just for the protection but if a piece of molten slag lands on the boot it just rolls off instead of burning through.
As far as the various types, carbon fiber is the lightest, composite light and not thermally conductive (think winter), and steel the heaviest with prices following the obvious trend.
Another thing to consider is shanks. The shank is a short plate in the sole. Most boots have a short one because it helps keep the shoe from rolling as you walk. Lineman and ditch digger (shovel) boots have 3/4 or full shank. This is a little less comfortable because the boot is much stiffer and doesn’t bend at the toes and arch. The advantage is that you can stand on a ladder rung or throw your full weight onto a shovel without bruising your feet. So if you will be digging footers a longer shank is a huge plus.
Finally there are puncture resistant inserts and boots. I strongly recommend the latter. The inserts take up about a half size so you can’t reuse existing boots and they are basically a piece of steel with some foam on top that feels like standing on thin foam covering a steel plate (ow!)
As a side note there is “EH” that is a thin membrane that is supposed to protect from shock. It is not tested and does NOT work. Please don’t ask how I know about the latter. Let’s just say I and others have tested it.
As far as what you need, the most common residential construction accident next to getting stuff in your eyes has to be nails through the foot. Rarely getting things dropped on your foot. As a mostly industrial maintenance person after about 30 years of experience I’d say I’ve put nails through my foot 4 or 5 times, dropped something on my foot where the steel toe worked maybe 2-3 times, and hit my metatarsals at least twice. Unless you religiously pound out the nails every time and pick every nail and screw up every time it will happen eventually.
The best thing about steel toes is you can kick the blank out of something when you need to. Or balance something heavy on your foot comfortably. Like when a horse plays “lean” with you or steps on your foot to show dominance. In bare feet (been there done that) it is very painful and bruises for a week. In steel toes you can laugh at the horse attempting it as their foot rolls off yours!
All that being said what I’m trying to say is for a kitchen remodel probably not safety toes. If anything puncture resistant soles would be my first thought if I did it professionally. Regardless you need to try them on in a store. They all fit very differently from a standard shoe/boot Real vs. Fake On Clouds. Safety toes in particular have a tendency to cut into the sides or top of your foot so you often need a larger toe box or the right width or go up a size from what you are used to. Also consider riggers. So comfortable. There is a reason they’re popular.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAt work I need to wear safety boots, all properly rated to recognised standard. Years of cheap ones made for people with exceptionally wide feet made me shop around. I saw a company called Grisport made a really widely used safety boot (coca cola in Europe and car manufacturers) that was getting good reviews. Plus Grisport is an Italian hiking boot manufacturer I first heard of for hiking boots. I got them, own money because work only buy £25 boots the tight wads! Initially they felt great but over the last 6+ months I've been getting worse sore instep under the foot and an increasingly painful outer toes on left foot. Length and width feels good but this pain is like when you first stub your bare foot hard! Since the boot has plenty of room I thought it was my out of work time outdoor trainers, salomon x ultra 3, third pair of x ultra. I bought new shoes with a roomier toe area. However since I took a few days off a month or so ago during which my painful toes got better I now know it's my worm boots. Are they salvageable? If not anybody know a good safety boot that's as conformable and hiking boot like as possible? My foot size/shape is narrow heel, average instep width and high arches.
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On 1/11/2022 at 5:39 PM, wingless said:
Welcome to the forum.
The proper installation of a new roofing system will have overlapped joints and flashing that all work together to prevent long term leaks.
The identification / repair of existing leaks requires investigation to locate failed or improperly installed components.
My house had a long term very intermittent leak issue where the final roofing contractor said rip off / replace the entire roof was the only solution to fix a leak at one spot, but that answer was not sufficient for me. I excavated all the roofing tar from the problematic spot until I reached the problem, that was caused by someone dumping a tube of silicone sealant during the initial installation under all the roofing material. Nothing was sticking to the silicone and it wasn't sticking to anything from roofing vienna va. All that silicone was dug out and replaced w/ roofing tar and it has been leak free for many years.
Why not provide info / photos that permit others to assist w/ the specific problem?
Hi, Yesterday we had a flash flood in the factory caused by a sudden downpour and defective drainage by the valley guttering, as this was near to electrical equipment and there was a signifigant amount of water on the floor and adjoining wall I instructed the operators to vacate the vacinity until it was deemed safe for the clean up to begin. This has been reported internaly and an action plan to remedy the situation is being put together. In the mean time I am wondering what duty, if any, can be placed on the landlord to rectify this issue. Is the following section of HASWA relevant: Section 4 Anyone who has, to any extent, control of premises (mainly landlords having control of common areas) must ensure that they are safe, are provided with safe access and egress and that plant or substances provided for use and that any plant or substances provided for use within the premises are safe and without risks to health so far is reasonably practicable Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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On 6/17/2017 at 9:40 AM, Bigmikez said:
I posted the other day about what I found under the vinyl and it was freakin tile☹️ So I called my cousin up and asked if I can barrow this bad boy I was only trying it out but looks like I'll be up pretty late tonight ??????
here i found a result on bathroom remodeling mayflower
Hello. I'm working on a master bath remodel. Does anyone on the forum have any experience with the quality or lack of quality of the products produced by the American Bath Factory? I've been looking for a complete shower unit and they seem to have a larger unit like I've been looking for. I just don't have any information about their product quality or durability. Y'all please chime in with any information you can provide.
Dewalt 20v DCST922 string trimmer stopped working
in Dewalt
Posted
Right in the middle of using it. I’ve used it lightly for about 13 months. It jammed up and would just “click” while other times it would turn “gravely” I took it apart thinking something broke or was getting jammed in the reduction gear. Nope… gears were fine. It was the motor. Black gritty magnet bits stuck to the outer magnets. I’d guess they are inside also causing the intermittent locking or grave feeling. Now, what to do? Test the Dewalt 3 year limited warranty or just buy a new bare tool for $99… (or both)