deedub35
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Posts posted by deedub35
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Most of my work is bathroom renovations and basement developments. I have a DCS361 which I use for the trim work - casings and baseboards.
I do the occasional deck here
and there so then I use my DW718.
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11 minutes ago, Paddy said:
The edge you're taking your measurements from would need to be square to begin with otherwise your cuts would be off and with the Dewalt tracks there's no good way to hold a square against the track because of it having two anti splinter guards
True and good point. But I’ve never had a 4x8 sheet of plywood, mdf, or even drywall be out of square. There’s always a framing square close by to check before cuts.
You can hold a framing square against the anti splinter strips. After the first use of the tracksaw the edge of the strip IS where the left kerf of the saw blade is. The strip is straight and parallel to the metal track - just not the very end bits but that overhangs the material anyways.
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I’ve had my tracksaw for quite some time and use it when cutting down sheet goods. Often it is expensive plywood or veneer for cabinet sides, backs, and shelves. So I can’t mess around with cuts being out. I’ve always used the dewalt clamps. Measure both ends of the piece, line up the track, clamp both ends, and cut. Way more accurate than relying on what looks like to be an 8” perpendicular piece of metal. Takes a minute more to set up the cut but I’m paid by the hour and having a cut out by 1/16 or worse is not an option.
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The website still shows the DWS5028 miter gauge and DWS5027 T-square.
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I would love a cordless pin nailer. I use one lots when doing cabinetry.
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3 hours ago, Big Adam said:
Apologies for the noob question, I know the baby chainsaw has tool-free chain tensioning but can someone confirm what (if any) tools are needed to remove the entire bar? The manual isn’t 100% clear on this.
I’m planning to pick up a couple of bare tools while I’m in Florida in December and breaking down the chainsaw will help me pack it into my luggage.
No tools required. Twist the knob counterclockwise to remove the black housing. Twist the tensioning knob to give enough slack. Done - 10 seconds give or take.
I take it apart after every use to clean out the accumulated debris. I found out that if you don’t the bar/chain oil wicks out and you end up having a mess on the floor of your work van or counter.
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4 hours ago, BMack37 said:
I'd take it apart myself. That shouldn't be all that complicated.
Do you hear anything spinning in there? It could be a belt or a nylon gear slipped out of place.
Maybe I will. Warranty has long since elapsed.
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Say hello to my lil friend. Made my deck demo go a lot easier.
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11 hours ago, framer said:
is there a button to turn the spin on??
No. It’s pretty basic - press the button, wait for it to self calibrate, and then it should start spinning. That’s what it used to do.
I’m sure it’s something internal. I’ll see what the service repair says.
Last week I had the unit screwed to the ledger board and I had to manually aim the laser dot towards the footings so I could get the post height. I only had 3 posts but I was by myself and it was annoying going back and forth to get this laser dot to hit the grade rod.
My colleague who is a home builder is going to lend me his for my next deck build in two weeks.
I’m not going to buy another one because I don’t use it much at all. I only do one or two decks a year - I’m more into bathrooms and kitchens.
With that said if the repair
cost is too much I’ll just bin this POS.
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I have had this laser level for a while now. I haven’t used in a bit though. Brought it out this week as I was starting a deck build. Everything powers up and lights up but the head doesn’t spin. Any similar experiences, suggestions, or solutions? If not a trip to the service center I guess. Might not even be worth fixing?
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Here is some pricing from a KMS Tools - a chain of tool stores in Western Canada.
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So this post is not to show off my work but to show the precision of the saw in case there are some on the fence about picking one up.
First off I installed the base, shower faucet, mould/moisture resistant wallboard, and then the Kerdi waterproofing.
Then I installed the 12x24 porcelain tiles in a horizontal grid pattern.
The top row of tiles needed to be ripped a bit leaving slivers. What I found impressive was that the slivers (1/8" to 1/4" wide) remained intact!
That is precision!
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60 mil vinyl decking - brand names include Duradek, Tuffdeck, etc.
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Not sure why you would want to have the whole assembly bolted together. Have you considered the cleaning aspect? I do a lot of tiling. At the end of the day there is a lot of tile residue at the bottom of the tray. For me clean up always involves taking the table off and bringing all the components outside for a hose down.
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Not going to happen. The tile saw sits in the large black tray. The large black tray rests on the folding stand. Everything is held in to place by gravity and the weight of the saw.
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Exactly one of my requirements as well. The board is a friction/gravity fit into the 2 vac casters via the 2" ABS couplers. The board simply lifts up to remove. I lift the entire contraption by the vac handle and the board stays put.
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I bought a dust deputy and thought it was fantastic. I wanted to come up with something that attached the dust deputy, bucket, and vac together. I had time this weekend and came up with this. I was also able to include my I-vac unit as well.
I built the base out of some scrap 1/2" ply. The ridgid casters fit a 2" ABS coupling perfectly. I used 1&1/2" ABS for the vac tool storage.
I built a removable "J" pipe to attach the vac and dust deputy from 2" ABS and a couple rubber fittings.
Everything works great. The unit is completely portable and can be carried with one hand by the vac handle. Just need to lengthen the cord a bit on the I-vac.
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The kerdi board saves you the step of not having to apply the Kerdi waterproof membrane over the concrete board/denshield/drywall substrate. The only thing you need is just the kerdi band for the seams and screw holes.
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Auxiliary sprayer? Am I missing one on mine?
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My tracksaw is invaluable. I do most of my craft alone and cutting a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF on my DW745 is impossible. So much easier and safer to set the sheet on the sawhorses with a sacrificial top and just start cutting. The only thing I need to worry about is that the sawhorses are in the right position to support the cut portions.
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Festool makes a track 5m long!
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You can connect tracks together using the DWS5033 track connector.
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I have the track saw and love it. I have the 59", 102" track, and clamps. I use it often especially when cutting sheets of plywood or MDF by myself which is too hard to do on a table saw.
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I do find Dewalt's decision to modify the saws so that they do not accept the light or laser intriguing.
Changing the molds for the plastic parts and castings for the aluminum parts costs money. So it usually isn't a good business decision financially to spend money to save money.
Also it was mentioned that the sales for the light and laser did not meet expectations and were low. Well the new saws with the mods will further decrease sales! They should have just put the new motor on and left it at that so that they could still be able to sell some of the lights and lasers.
I'm with the OP on this one. Poor decision on Dewalt's part. I'd be miffed too.
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HELP WITH 20V DEWALT BATTERIES
in Dewalt
Posted
All 20V max batteries work with all 20V max tools. Even the Flexvolt batteries work with all 20V max tools. So the 6AH batteries will work with the chainsaw.
You can certainly buy them now, keep them sealed, and give as a Christmas gift. They will be fine. You will need to charge them before use of course.