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jeffmcmillan

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Posts posted by jeffmcmillan

  1. Since dewalts 20V batteries are actually only 18V. The two batteries would contain the same energy but it is output differently and the tools will have a different efficiency. The 36V (dewalt will call it 40V) will likely use the energy faster for a more powerful tool which may result in fewer cuts per charge although they would be faster. It all depends on the tool but they do contain the same power

  2. The blade I have is an old 100 tooth and I'm sure it's dull because the name is worn off of it.  ^-^

     

    I had the blade depth set to just a little more than the thickness of the material, so I don't think that's the problem. I will check out the diablo, I think I've seen them in Home Depot.

    Thanks

    Is it one of those all steel blades designed (a long time ago) for plywood?  Something like this?

     

    Despite those blades being designed for plywood I think they're one of the worst blades for it.  I once saw one so dull that it was impossible to tell which way it should spin since both the marking and teeth were worn off.

  3. For a set of general use drill bits those are one of the best options.  The largest downside I see with the pilot point is difficulty of sharpening which is probably more effort than it's worth.  I think the saved time and cost from not needing a spotting drill is worth the cost to replace dull bits though since they last quite a long time for the price.  

     

    Bottom line, you can't go wrong with Dewalt drill bits.

  4. You know if a DIYer like us got a hold of some One key the torque and rpm on the drills would be maxed out all of the time!

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

    For now...  Someday you'll point your phone at a screw and you driver will automatically load the optimal settings.

     

    Actually, this would be straightforward to set up with existing hardware and some code libraries.  This might even be in the near future for milwaukee.  Is everyone looking forward to paying for upgrades to the hardware they already own?

  5. Brusheless uses permanant magnets in the rotor so more current can go to the stator windings which gives you more power.  The closest brushed option was a permanant magnet stator to allow more current to the brushed rotor which is much less efficient.

     

    If you want more detail you need magnetic field densities and other black magic

  6. Neither of those have a particularly high torque, in fact Makita is lagging quite a bit with impact wrench offerings.  If you have a decent impact already I would wait for a good high torque impact  The way Makita is going, one can't be too far off.

  7. Since the 1/2" drive refers to the connection of the socket to the bar, you need either 1/2" sockets or a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the 3/8" sockets.  Because of the torque involved with a breaker bar though it's best not to use any adapters or extensions.

  8. The only explanations I can come up with for the sudden curve at the end is either one of the slides is bent, or as the weight shifts too far forward it brings something out of alignment.  If it was still giving a straight cut but at an angle that would be much easier to troubleshoot.  Checking that the slides are still straight is straightforward.  Checking if it's something else being loose is more difficult.

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