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JMG

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Posts posted by JMG

  1. I've been avoiding the forum because I knew that I would end up spending money on tools if I did not... meh. Been waiting a long time for that Dewalt tracksaw to show up and could not resist the sale price... Going to go hide again and try not to buy any more tools for a few months.

    • Like 2
  2. I have had several close calls and minor plus not so minor work related accidents in my career, mostly due to lack of experience or related to fatigue and lack of concentration. I've seen others have worse incidents, and not so worse ones too. Was working on a jobsite with my father once where he was using an old D handle drill he had scrounged from some trash heap at his old job. It was an old beast with no reverse, single speed, and had a tendency to shock you due to a lack of proper ground connection to the metal casing on it, and I had several nicknames for it... Anyway, he was using it to drill a hole in the floor one day, and I was working on something on the other end of the room when I hear an odd sound, and turn around to see him hopping up and down, looking and sounding like a monkey in the zoo (Oooo Oooo Oooo). When I asked what was wrong I here this somewhat high pitched response; "Pinched me nutz!!!". Seems that the loose fitting khaki pants he liked to wear got caught in the chuck of the beast... I had tears running down my face from the painful hilarity I was witnessing as he spent a few minutes extricating himself from that trap. No way I was going to offer a helping hand on that one. Couldn't see straight anyways.

    • Like 3
  3. I have four of the base model units and sort of wish I had invested in one of the multi base kits when they were producing them. They are simply excellent small routers. Solid, stable, and easy to adjust. In my opinion, they were the best trimmers available at the time they were produced. If they are knocking down that much cash these days used, then there must be a bunch of similar opinions out there. I put mine through a lot back when I still had my shop and have not had to rebuild any of them.

     

    I can't say what exactly might make them so special to command such a price these days (outside of demand), but I have never had any remorse from buying all of the ones I do have...

  4. @SetBuilder I am curious as to why you would need plans when it is all shown in the video. They even tell you where to buy the hardware... Just pick a dimension for the height you want and improvise. Have one of your CNC jocks lay out something on the software package and go to town. As long as you are not producing the item for sale, then it should be fair use.

     

    You could also start a trial membership at the following link to see if there are any dimensions in the article that would help you build your own. I believe that the article was written by the original designer.

    http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2013/09/12/three-legged-sawhorses

  5. Wow, I am somewhat taken aback that someone actually sued them over this. I always just took it for granted that they were inflating numbers as standard marketing practice and only ever looked at the final price of one of their product offerings when buying from them. I think it would be too much trouble to go through all of my credit card statements just to find a few items to get a minimal discount, when it is easier just to use one of their current percent off coupons.

     

    Thanks for posting though...

    • Like 3
  6. @SetBuilder Just google "laminate backed veneer" and you will get plenty of links to manufacturers. Your local laminate supplier should also have a line on this item type as well. The fill & sand on the bending ply is just to level off any minor bumps or voids prior to lamination (not a complete fill), as the veneers available as standard are mostly applied to vertical grade backers. Sheet sizes should be available in most standard laminate sizes and probably available in custom size or veneer with minimum purchase restrictions. You can produce solid wood corner solutions if the phenolic backer edge line is objectionable to the designer. Otherwise it is applied using standard lamination processes. At butt seam locations, it is a good idea to use a magic marker on the substrate, that is a close match to the final color, so that if there is some minor shrinkage, the disparity in color will not be as noticeable. Markers can also be used with standard laminate seams as well. Nothing is worse than having a seam open up a small amount on a black laminate project to expose a light color back board when a black magic marker could have pre-colored the seam area leaving it almost unnoticeable if there was movement in that particular area. I worked in Florida where contractors routinely insisted on millwork being installed prior to the building environment being stabilized, even though the specifications stated otherwise. Movement in the installed product was one of the issues on call backs and punch lists at times and always used against you as the producer even though the contractor was the party at fault for violation of procedure. Complaining about it would just get you black-listed, so planning ahead to avoid the issue became a standard operating procedure.

    • Like 1
  7. 10 hours ago, SetBuilder said:

     

    Once we have the frame made we were able to bend 1/4in MDF for the inside, it was not easy, but we were able to glue it and staple it. There are two layers of 1/4 in on the inside. On the outer layer we used 1/4 in for the first layer, then 2 layers of 1/8 in mdf  before the birch veneer. The final layer of MDF was put on with contact cement, so nothing would show through the veneer.

    Curiosity; Do you not have access to a laminate backed wood veneer? Or is there an issue with expansion/contraction at the veneer joints that would cause any problems in using it? Or requirements of specific bookmatching on the veneers? I probably would have used two layers of 3/8" bending grade ply inside and out and then used the phenolic backed veneer over that to span any deviations, after fill and sand. If the flexibility of the the glue is an issue, you could hard glue the laminated veneer to the outer face. The inner face would be too much trouble to hard glue and is generally trapped by the shape itself so contact glue wouldn't generally be an issue there. Applying MDF seems like a bit of a pain, even if you are shooting for a paint grade surface...

  8. @Conductor562 Could you not build a temporary plywood container to the size you need, line it with foil backed foam insulation sheet material, and heat it with a Milwaukee or other brand heat gun, using a double wall exhaust tube as an inlet? The set temperature for powder isn't that extreme and a food thermometer could be used to watch the temp while manually controlling the heat gun. You might have to experiment with an exhaust vent size to help control the heat, but I think for limited use, building something would work well enough for such a short term heat cycle. If there is a concern of ignition of any fumes, then just run a pipe around the interior and straight to an exhaust port without exposing the interior space directly to the heat being generated.

  9. I have at least six trim routers in my kit, and if this model becomes available here in the US shortly after its release in Australia, and also withstands the first test, I could see it replacing all of the current ones I keep. Most of the ones I have are set up for specific operations that do not generally require constant power and I find it easier and more efficient to grab a specific trimmer for a task than to change up and make adjustments every time I need one. One out of the group is kept for the purpose of the misc. setups that are not needed on a regular basis, and that unit might see longer runs in one setting than the others do,but overall, the trim routers are not a workhorse in the shop or on the job site. They are the convenient, quick fix, inexpensive tool that save me time and take up minimal space and not having to drag out a wire every time I need one would just be icing on the cake.

    • Like 1
  10. In today's world, if you own a tool and someone else injures themselves using it, can you be held liable for that injury? You can't fix stupid, and you also can't avoid litigation when stupid decides that you should have done the work for them so that they wouldn't have been hurt by your tool. Yes, this is an extreme example, but it is entirely possible that someone might go this far if they think you have an insurance policy that they could access like a lottery ticket, even if it was their own stupidity that was the cause of the problem. Even if you win in a situation like this, you lose monetarily. I prefer not to let Murphy gain an edge on me by loaning tools to someone who may or may not know how to use them, take care of them, or return them immediately after use after having cleaned them or refilled the gas tank to the same level as when they borrowed it. Having to chase a tool down when I need it because someone decided that it was okay to hang on to it because it wasn't important enough of an item to return to it's rightful owner and that the owner might have forgotten who borrowed it and never come looking for it, is not high on my list of things to do today. Having to run to the gas station and fill a tank before returning home to use a tool after getting it back or having to chase it down in the first place is even lower on that list.

     

    There is only one person that I will currently loan tools to without reservation and that person does not like to borrow them, unless it is an emergency. It is a matter of trust, and that has been stretched pretty thin in my case over the last couple of decades.

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