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Dano123

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Posts posted by Dano123

  1. http://www.homedepot.com/p/compare/?errorURL=ProductAttributeErrorView&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&prodComp_0=204308870&prodComp_1=100650378&prodComp_2=205846386&prodComp_3=202951723&keyword=M18%20drill%20impact

     

    Here are all the ones I found. If it was me, I would spend the $299 and get the XC kit with the free 4.0. I have the XC kit and they are great, I also added a 5.0 so I never have to worry about running out of power.

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  2. 55 minutes ago, Tim C said:

    2602-20  2606-20  2607-20  and 2 others seem to all look the same and be mixed in and changed about all dif kits at HD.  I wonder if the kits that everyone thinks change price al the time are not actually the same kits.  maybe the kit thats 200, then 169, then 219 that we all think is the same is actually dif tools in the kit each week at HD?

     

     

    Edit: looks to be so.  You dont even see these when your on the site browsing.  You physically need to manually type in each one.

     

    https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2606-20

    https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2607-20

    https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2602-20

     

    and there are a lot more.  just read that HD swaps each week but never changes display or add so you would never know till u buy it hahah

     

    The 4 digit model number is per tool, so yes the 2602, 2606 and 2607 are all different tools. As I said in the last post, the -20 means bare tool.  The kit model number 2697 and 2691 are both different kits, regardless of the -22 or -22CT.  The 2607 is a hammer drill/driver and the 2606 is just a drill/driver. I know it can be confusing, it took me a while to figure it out.

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  3. Ok, the CT means compact battery as far as I know. Milwaukee uses the -20, -21, -22, -21CT, -22CT to indicate how many batteries come in the kit. -20 is the bare tool, -21 has one battery, -22 has 2 batteries.  The drill in the bottom pic is a hammer drill, you can see the hammer symbol on the side of the drill right behind the chuck. As far as the impacts, they say they are the same model number, but they are clearly different in the pic.  Trust the model number over the pic, however the pics at HD are usually accurate.  They also make a Driver that is not a drill, it only has the 1/4" hex quick connect like an impact.

  4. I have noticed the big difference in pricing for the kits as well. The kit you posted for $259 has a hammer drill and the impact looks slightly different, but I assume it is newer or older then the $199 kit.  The $259 kit looks to come with 2 compact vs the standard packs in the $199 kit.  The free tool or flashlight deal changes frequently on their website, it just depends on the day. I am not sure what you are asking though? 

  5. I see it at live auctions as well. A lot of items go for new or higher prices because people don't know the market. I buy tools at a discount store locally that buys semi loads of new merchandise from stores and sells it super cheap. When they got a load from HD they were selling them for 30% less than HD prices and in a few cases way less.

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  6. You know I think that router is drill master and I have rounded a lot of edges with it and trimmed the back paneling on a few shelves I built. I would say don't expect much out of a drill that usually sells for 9.99 with a coupon...

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  7. I know most people clown HF, but I have had good luck with the tools I have bought there.  I know what to expect and they have held up.  I have a couple grinders(mostly used with cutoff wheels), the 10" Miter (best $90 I ever spent), flux core welder(I have only used it once), the trim router (great tool for $20), recip saw and that hammer drill. I am sure I have others I am forgetting too. I also have quit a few of their air tools that have held up well. I will say their regular cheap air impacts suck, I have a Kobalt that does a decent job.

  8. I charge my batteries when I am done using the tool. My spares are always full. They don't have memory anymore so draining them to dead doesn't help anything. I have read a few articles that say charging more frequently actually helps on lithium batteries.

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  9. I had a B&D corded hammer drill I used for years then I bought a HF hammerdrill last year. I bought a nice Milwaukee Magnum last week at an auction, I tested it but I haven't used it yet. I want to find a rotary hammer, I am just waiting for one at an auction.

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  10. I use mine for tapcons, I haven't drilled the 1/2" holes for my post brackets yet. I plan to do a brushed M18 vs M12 Fuel vs HF corded just to see how each does. If your going to do a lot of concrete work get a rotary hammer, if your just running a few tapcons here and there the cordless hammerdrill is perfect.

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  11. Please see below... I will not be using to make a living, but i also use a lot more then a normal DIY home owner.  For example work on my cars, will be drywalling my 3 car garage soon, fixing riding mower etc.  just not sure if i will regret no getting one in 5 months or not...?

     

    This is the kit i have for: $170  -  Link: https://tinyurl.com/han4ne2

    42a97561-ce6c-403e-b783-c8d69cba7c4a_400.jpg

     

    This is the same kit but Brushless (non-Fuel) for: $220 to $250  -  Link: https://tinyurl.com/jgvjmqo

    shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcTcM_nf2cINaAzbFySJmHvbKG-KQNcKbGnbG9nJopyGT5q0HiU_&usqp=CAY

     

    I can maybe see spending another $50 to $70 to get brushless, but my issues is do I spend another $200 to $230 (plus tax) to get fuel?  I hate getting stuck with something in a year from now, but again do i need the best... no

    It looks like you also upgrade to a hammer drill and a XC battery so it is a much better deal for the extra $50 to 70.

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  12. Another point I would like to bring up is what line do you currently use? I know my M18 brushed impact was so much stronger than my old B&D that it took some time to get used to it. I would check HD for M18 brushed sets on clearance to start out with and as someone mentioned, you can add on bare tools as needed. I guarantee you won't run into a job building decks that the brushed drill or impact can't handle. The run time on my batteries out lasts the charge time by far so I could run the tools all day without any issue.

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  13. As these guys have mentioned, you don't need commercial duty cordless tools. I would like to mention I had Black and Decker tools for years and I built a lot of projects with them. If you take care of your tools the only maintenance items are the batteries. If my batteries were lithium I would still be using them, but I upgraded to Milwaukee. I started with the M18 brushed hammerdrill and impact set with the 3.0 batteries and the power blows away Black and Decker tools. That being said, you only need so much power to get a job done. I bought into the M12 line because I wanted the M12 Hackzall since it was more compact then the M18 and HD had a drill hackzall combo with 2 batteries for $99 so I couldn't beat it. After that I found a M12 impact kit at a discount store and it really opened my eyes to the M12 line. For most of the jobs I was doing it had more than enough power, until the TIACREW talked me in into buying the M12 Fuel hammerdrill and impact set! The M12 Fuel line has more power then my B&D 18v did by far. For running screws, drilling holes and other misc projects the M12 line is the way to go in my book. I find myself grabbing them over my M18 all the time and the only time I used my M18 recently was to drive 5/16" x 3.5" lags. The M12 probably could have, I had it setup with a different bit.

    Moral of the story, the 12v lines are not what they used to be and for running deck screws, drywall screws, etc the lighter weight and lower price, you can't beat it. Plus you can mix and match with brushed and brushless. If you go with Ryobi, Porter Cable, etc get the 18/20v lines, they will work fine for you too. If you want outdoor power equipment too go with Ryobi, I don't think PC has any OPE and I know Milwaukee doesn't.

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  14. Great information, thanks. I am still in the planning phase and the research I did about the epoxy paint was for my garage. I decided against it out there because I saw too many bad reviews and I would rather leave it bare. It's an old floor with oil spots here and there and I think it would be a huge project just to prep it.

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