stductwork
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Posts posted by stductwork
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1 minute ago, BMack37 said:
Yeah, it must be some big conspiracy from EVERY TOOL COMPANY ON EARTH to prove you wrong with their tests and data.
Where do you have to be for 30 to be greater than 90? On the same point the anvil, spring and hammer in most impact wrenches aren't made from the same stuff impact sockets are yet they take the beating just fine. It would be the case that impact sockets can cost three/four times that of a cheap-o-nasty chrome socket.
As for prove me wrong, I don't see how. I've shown a data sheet which suggests impact sockets are harder than S2/Chrome sockets. I use impact wrenches all day every day and use both chrome and impact rated sockets; both do a job and do it well with the DTW281.
But back to the point I was originally trying to make before it got derailed, if you consider there to be a massive benefit to spending the/four times what you would on a normal bit or socket, spend it, it's your money. I personally haven't found that benefit after spending the money.
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On the two data sheets it plainly says the hardness scale rates impact sockets 3 times that of S2 steel.
My experience most probably counts for nothing and I'm probably reading the data sheets wrong, eh. It's not like tool companies try to sell you tools or anything.
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21 minutes ago, JimboS1ice said:
I wonder what max capacity is
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk130Kg
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11 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:
By softer we don't mean put your nail through it but something harder tends to be more brittle, with the impact energy going through a harder more brittle material it will cause failure.
You've completely removed the composite of the metal. Chrome Vanadium or S2 isn't brittle because it's harder, it's brittle because it's higher in carbon. I'll also add I use Chrome sockets on an impact wrench daily and have done for years. To break most chrome sockets the force needed over a long time far exceed the most conventional impact drivers and wrenches. Only higher rated wrenches such as those used by steel erectors would break them down quickly. Impact rated sockets will crack. I believe you follow my instagram, posted a photo of a cracked impact socket just last week.
5 hours ago, BMack37 said:All of your impact sockets are softer than regular sockets, when metal gets harder it becomes more brittle...impacting breaks the harder material.
Go ahead and do your research: https://www.google.com/webhp?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#safe=off&q=difference+between+impact+sockets+and+regular+sockets
See attached image. On the left is 41xx Steel or as Referred chrome molybdenum. It's not softer than S2 steel at all. It's infact a lot harder. The make up of it is in fact different.
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1 hour ago, BMack37 said:
It's supposed to flex to avoid breakage, same reason impact sockets are softer than regular sockets.
Well I'm not sure what you mean by softer but if any of the impact sockets I own were to show any give or wear through being softer they'd be going straight back to the manufacturer.
If sockets give at all they not fit for purpose. Example you set your torque wrench to 400nm but the socket 'flex' gives at 350nm(hypothetically), then the socket isn't any good.
As with give in driver bits, again your losing torque so personally I'll stick to normal bits and break 3:1 at 1/3 the cost. On that basis there's no benefit to them. Lost energy from bits just renders high torque impact drivers pointless. At the same time some of these 'torsion' bits wouldn't move under 170nm and if they do the metal is garbage anyway and probably won't last.
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3 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:
Wouldn't surprise me if some brands are a gimmick but with other brands you do notice a slight difference in performance rather durability, something "impacted" rated is generally softer and allows for minor torsion in the bit it self, take the Wiha Terminators for instance are actually a two piece bit which if you grab both ends you can twist it yourself, this allows the bit to absorb the impact blow better, now I have a bunch of Tekton bits that are not impact rated, first use of it I make myself a little prison shiv, they can't absorb the energy like softer bits do
You can twist them yourself? So people are paying hundreds for the latest and greatest impact drivers then to go and buy bits and bit holders that actually encourage torque loss? Terrible idea and a waste of money.
Rigidity and as few joints as possible make impact drivers economical.
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I'm still not sure that impact rated driver bits make all the difference anyway. I'm still using old dewalt bits from before the days of impact drivers and they very rarely shatter.
I can understand it with society but again, bar a thin wall socket I've had split I've never had a chrome vanadium socket break on an impact wrench.
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3 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:
New vehicle charger coming soon... available for preorder now..
..
Available here for £110. Definitely cheaper to buy an inverter.
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4 hours ago, Jronman said:
nice. I wish companies started coming out with solid state batteries.
Give it 5/10 years before they're more commonly used.
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Seems to be a very passionate drive for cross platform battery usage with lasers... If someone could offer suggestions to dewalt or if they are listening. A 20V Max battery holder that could utilise the UNC tripod mount on the bottom with a USB style cable to a second 12V Max battery body. Still able to use the magnetic mounts and would be able to use anyway with a tripod. Easy solution if they aren't just trying to make money from the 12V platform.
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If it's lighting up and making an attempt to run then I'd check the drive train. Make sure any barings in the housing haven't dislodges which might hinder the rotation of the armature or rotor. Make sure the stator is correctly seated. Remove the gearing after the motor and try and run it. If it runs then the issue is in the gear train.
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I will mention just for the sake of it, my red DW085 5spot does project further than either my DCE088G or DCE089G on a light day so I wonder if there's such a benefit to a green spot anyway.
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23 minutes ago, Martin said:
Keep posting more good news!
Will the cordless trim router make it to EU this year?
Could be wrong but I'm sure I saw Q4 mentioned.
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8 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:
Guys what's with the size and weight? This is a laser, you don't stand around holding it. You set it on the floor or on a tripod. It's not like it's a 2 hand tool here that has to fit into tight places.
It could be 3 times as heavy and twice as big and I'd still be around 0 fucks given for something like this. As for the AA comments, I could buy 150 AA's (non rechargable) for the cost of one 12v. Add a backup battery and a charger...something like 600 AA's. Not the most practical if you're running 10hrs a day every day as said but for the guy using it a few hours a day at the most like I do, it's a no brainer. No charging, years and years of supply from a battery platform that will probably take 50 years to go away. My rinky dink 10yr old cross beam laser runs on AA's and I've changed them three times in that amount of time. Of course it's red and green is higher energy but even if it took 8 AA's to get it going I could still change them 75 times before I'd break even.
I see no appeal at all for 12v here, unless it's called Milwaukee.
So perhaps this laser and those like it weren't really targeted at users like you to begin with?
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Video is based on a Milwaukee Battery but if it's a knock off we're talking about it doesn't really matter what brand they've knocked off.
I've spoken to you in other threads before now I know in regard to real v knock off batteries. I've heard all the arguments for, all against, I use all legitimate batteries, I know people who use all knock off batteries.
In reality? Pointless argument. If it works for you and you're saying money, go for it. If you're rather pay more and feel you're getting something more justifiable, go for it.
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27 minutes ago, muddychip said:
I don't know why 18v batteries cannot be used for this line of Dewalt lasers. Does it have to do with size and weight? Because if I want a compact and lightweight laser, I would spend extra money and purchase a PLS laser or an AA powered laser.
So what do I want from this line of Dewalt lasers? I want the convenience of the brand's ecosystem. That means a 18v battery powered laser so I can take a 18v 2.0ah battery out of DCN660 or DCF620 and put it onto the laser. A seamless workflow but why can't we have that?
They'll have done this market research before deciding to use lithium batteries on their lasers long before this model has been mentioned simply because the DW087/088 were so well proven and they were powered off 3xAA batteries.
You'll find the desire for a compact laser while still offering a rugged design and practical use will outweigh the desire to use an 18v battery pack on it which would almost double the size and weight of the tool.
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2 hours ago, Bremon said:
You know rechargeable AAs exist and aren't expensive right? Good rechargeable AA are cheaper than 3 18650s in.a plastic housing. I'm not saying AA is the better way to go but your argument is "these rechargeable batteries and charger are way more convenient than these other smaller, lighter, cheaper batteries and their small charger".
Note that for some of us the "but it uses the same batteries and charger you already have" argument isn't very compelling because the 12v line isn't very compelling. I don't believe the new fast chargers work for 12v max either, which means another charger to carry.
They aren't expensive but nor are they practical. They're lower voltage, lower capacity and unless you have multiple sets or a charger to hand constantly there's certainly no benefit. If you carry one maybe two lasers and you use it here or there for maybe an hour or two at a time, sure, go for it. If you have them in use all day long and you have more than one and they're being used between a few guys the AA's just aren't as practical and in reality aren't that much cheaper either.
And no, that isn't my argument. The batteries I have are all Makita. To use dewalt lasers it was pretty much a new platform for me but as I've mentioned, the price of a kit including a battery and charger was £30 or so different to just buying a bare body.
If the AA batteries thing is really that much of an issue for you there's always the attached file. They recommend it only be used with the Red lasers as I'd imagine the AA's don't have a high enough voltage nor allowance for current draw to power the green diodes reliably.
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14 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:
Not when you add in the value of the tstak and included battery. If the $400 laser I want costs $300 bare tool in 20v without my need to buy more batteries comes along...yes, I'm really into buying it because I know at some point it'll come down the line, perhaps even with updated green diodes that will make these obsolete not only in visibility but in voltage as well. It's not so much about deal breaking as just nonsensical to someone who doesn't already have 12v (not sure about other markets but I've literally never seen anyone pull out a 12v Dewalt in the field of any sort...ever.) but owns lots of 20v. This laser should last easy a good 15 years and I would bet the farm they won't be making 12v batteries in current form factor for half of that.
I'd rather have it run on 8 or 10 AA's than 12v and at least know I'm good for the life of the tool.
I highly doubt they're going to stop producing 12v slide on batteries, and even if they do before the tool fives out I'd imagine third party manufacturers will continue anyway. I can still get XRP batteries quite readily and they've stopped making that gear a long time ago.
As for the AA batteries I think the lithium switch was the better move. I've been in the situation where I'm on a job and the batteries die and having to walk to find the nearest store to get more. No thanks. At least with two and a charger it eliminates that problem not to mention the cost of AAs. I don't find good ones to be cheap.
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Hoping this will drop soon:
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13 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:
I just don't like investing into batteries that can only be used for one tool (lets face it the 12v line is, well...where is it, actually?)
I'd much rather be able to buy it bare tool and drop a 20v 2.0ah in it that I already have and save my $75 for a pair, even if it's slightly larger as a result. I mean I get what you're saying and why they did it but it's not for everyone IMO.
Forgive me for being cynical but if $75 on batteries for an almost $500 laser is a deal breaker, were you really into buying it anyway?
The extra cost of a kit including a battery compared to bare body is a fraction of the price in comparison to buying them standalone.
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4 hours ago, kornomaniac said:
Toolaholic and toolpig in Instagram mentioned that the Makita vibrates Alot in the air, but inside the cut it's very good with anti vibe.
It's like putting an umbrella up indoors and considering how well it works in my opinion.
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Ordered the DCE089D1G tonight. Should pair well with the DCE088D1G I have. Maybe it's time to sell one or two of the red line lasers I have...
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It's a tool I've put off for a long time because I don't use them enough to warrant buying another (already have 3) but there seems to be a lot of push from manufacturers to develop better recip saws.
What prompted you to buy the 18BL over the 36?
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12 hours ago, CATERPILLAR said:
I disagree but hey on eBay there are pretty good deals on genuine batteries.
Depends what you consider to be a good deal. Best deal I've ever had on batteries was 4xBL1840B batteries with a Makpac and inlay for a twin charger at £225, but by best deal I mean slightly better than getting mugged at knifepoint. Genuine batteries are overpriced no matter what 'deal' you think you're getting.
makita bits
in Makita
Posted
You cited marketing wank mate. I don't know why you're so bothered. Spend your money where you want. I know what works for me and I'm happy with that.
Well, did you read it yourself?