slopjock78
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Posts posted by slopjock78
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8 hours ago, Framer joe said:
Oh ya , just was reading about that. I read 21700 cells ? Same body size as the existing 9ah and about the same weight as I see the comments above me.....price will definitely drop, but I’ll get a few. Good thing is,you don’t need to buy as many.
Can’t wait to see Milwaukee’s answers coming up soon....I’m sure they have a 12ah, and high tech..funny how Dewalt put this out first this time ahead of the Milwaukee event....
love the competition,we all win. Personally I don’t think I’d buy a bigger battery then this size....hopefully someone is working on smaller,more powerful cells and more POWA inside.... @Jronman
I would agree, at some point it gets where we simply dont need bigger batteries. Making a given battery SMALL I think is the direction companies will be headed soon. When you get to the point where a battery will get you through multiple days of work....bigger just wont be necessary.
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I will be interested to see what they price this batteries at. I have 8 of the original 6/2 amp batteries, so I dont have a real big need for this battery, but if it's priced decent enough, I may have to pick one up to see how it does
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I dont remember seeing this on here. Was this previously announced?
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8 minutes ago, rcarnes911 said:
I have the 20v xr grinder, it's great lots of power I can get about 15 minutes of runtime with a flexvolt battery, the paddle switch can be a little finicky, but as long as you don't need the bigger wheel and have extra batteries it's a beast, if you think you will need the larger wheel on the flexvolt get it I don't have it but have used it before and it has balls
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Well, I have 8 FV batteries, and 7 20V of various sizes. So, run time is not a big issue for me. Also, I dont think i will need the larger size that the FV can handle. I'm guessing that the 20V can do everything I need it to. Just dont want to regret it later. However, from what I'm seeing, the 20V will almost certainly be plenty for my needs.
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So after getting my rotary hammer problem sorted out, new I'm going to get an angle grinder. I'm currently looking at either the 20V DCG413 or the 60V DCG414. They are usually within $20 of each other, so money isnt really going to be a factor. Everything I read on the flexvolt is that it has all the power in the world and pretty much can do whatever you ask of it. However, I really like the paddle switch on the 413, and I'm not really sure if I need the 60V power. I will mainly be do doing somewhat lighter duty stuff with it: cutting welded wire panels on the farm (cattle pannels) and then just the random grinding and cutting. Nothing crazy by any means, and will definitely not be an every day tool.
Does anyone have experience with both tools and can give any pro's and con's of each? And just to throw this in here: I know this is the Dewalt forum, and I am mainly a Dewalt guy, but I do have the Makita 18V platform as well. Is there a grinder in that platform that I should be looking into as well?
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On 4/18/2018 at 3:55 PM, HiltiWpg said:
You’ll be happy with Bosch!
The sad part about using a good bit is that you will hate using the cheap ones.
The DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita and others will work, but they take longer, aren’t as smooth or precise.
I recently had a couple 3/16” DeWalt go for a ride in the garbage because they were making the hole slightly too big. The tips were off. I bought the bulk pack of 10, 3 were bad. For what I paid for 10, I don’t mind throwing out a couple.
The difference with a Hilti bit is the precision and cutting speed. They cut faster, leave a nicer hole and I never worry about my anchors setting properly. You will pay more for a good one, but it’s worth every penny.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the input. I will get a couple Hilti bits to try out. I dont do a ton of concrete drilling, but i would like some decent bits for when I do
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Thanks for the input guys. I bough a few different bosch bits on amazon to try out. Also, Bosch seems to be what is available locally the most, so good to hear they are good bits if I need something in a pinch
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So I finally got a new DCH273 ordered, and need some bits for it. What are peoples recommendations for SDS Plus bits, both for drilling as well as hammering? I am not going to really need large quantities of any one bit, and would be open to an assortment set of bits. I have limited concrete drilling experience, so i do not currently really have a "go to" brand for concrete work. Any brands to stay away from? My first use will be for 3/16" tapcons, as well as drilling a 1" hole through a 8" concrete foundation wall.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks all
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Ok, I'm sold. I'm gonna order one today I think. I've been wanting a quality rotary hammer for several years, so nows the time to make it happen!
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Thanks for all the comments guys. I think I'm gonna stick with the 273, should be good enough.
I did consider the 133, but would like to have the chipping feature. I probably wont use it often, but it will be super handy to have when needed. Everything I've seen on the 273 seems like it should be worth the extra money.
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Ok, so I'm in the market for a rotary hammer. Looking at the 273 and the 293. This will be an occasional use tool for me, as I do not do much drilling in concrete as a general rule. I will mostly be using it on bits 1/2" or less, with some occasional larger holes and some light concrete shipping for any repair jobs that come up. Things that today I just do by hand. It will be replacing a Ridgid corded normal chucked hammer drill, so I would think either will be a step way up. I have 7 flexvolt batteries, and numbers 20V batteries, so run time wont be a huge issue for me. Just curious if there is any real reason to spend the extra money on the 293, or if the 273 should pretty much do everything I'm gonna ask it to do
thanks for any input
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30 minutes ago, Trim guy said:
Just clarifying, DCF895 vs DCF887?
I think the only real difference is preference with the different chuck "styles".
Yep, you are correct. I edited my original post
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So I have had the DCF895 impact for a couple years now and have been very happy with it. However, my brother was doing some plumbing for me over the weekend and he has the DCF887. I picked it up and handled it a little bit, and it looks pretty nice. For anyone that has used both of them, please talk me out of (or persuade me to) replacing my 895 with the 887!!
Yes, I do have a bit of a tool addiction
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Is that new TSTAK radio just a cord/cordless radio, or is it a charger as well? Didnt see that listed in the info posted, so i'm guessing it's not a charger....
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4 hours ago, framer said:
yuo can always predrill the frame with a normal drill from the outside before setting in place. then all you need is to drill a bit into the second frame.
but the DWARA100 will definetly do the job. and you should be using an impact driver. makes driving screws way easier. and the impact is shorter.
I actually really like this idea, I feel a little dumb not thinking of it myself. I think I will give this a try, and use the Dewalt flex shaft on my DCF895 impact to drive the screws.
Thanks everyone for the help. That bosch does look pretty handy, may put that on the list for the future...although I'm not sure I want to start another battery platform though.....
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So looking for some advice here. I have a kitchen project coming up, where I will need the services of a light duty right angle drill. The kitchen has several small cabinets that the face frames will need to be attached, but the openings are two small for a normal drill. I started looking into right angle drills such as the DCD740, about $140 bare. Then i started thinking, would some of the right angle attachments that are available now be just as effective. Thinking specifically of the Dewalt DWARAFS and DWARA100, or something similar from another manufacturer.
So, I thought I'd get one here and get some opinions on what others are doing in similar situations. Do people use more dedicated right angle drills, or attachments that can be used with normal drills. Again, specifically for light duty drilling, NOT something that would require something like a Hole Hawg. -
On 2/20/2018 at 7:25 PM, JakeDewalt said:
Let me know how you like that Makita I must say I was impressed seems to be a close comparison to the 790
So far so good. I'm not a full time carpenter, but I'm currently using it to trim an old farmhouse I am completely remodeling. I have very few faults with the tool so far. Dust extraction is exceptional when paired with my CT26. And with a Freud Industrial LU74 blade, the cuts are glass smooth and at least on par with any dewalt saw i've used.
I have read multiple issues with the miter lock bar not holding true and possibly bending/warping. I havent noticed this issue on my saw up to this point. Possibly a problem with the first batch of saws..?? No tool has a flawless record. Even the idolized Kapex has an absurdly high motor failure rate. Its almost laughable on Festool boards to see someone replace 3+ motors on a $1500 Kapex, and in the same breath belittle the $650 Makita as not being suitable for framing because of the possibility of the miter lock failing. Also Kapex junkies literally buying an extra $1500 saw as a backup for WHEN the motor burns up. Just laughable......
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21 hours ago, kornomaniac said:
They have a few extremely well thought out tools that just work better then other options.
Dust extraction is also quite top notch if that is important to you.
On the other side they also have a bunch of overpriced tools which were special 8 years ago but have since been surpassed by other tools from other brands
I cant find really anything with your statement that I can really disagree with. I really got into the brand about 4 years ago when i splurged on the track saw. Then the dust extractor and rotex sander. Then the domino, 3 more sanders, jig saw and router. All exceptional tools with great dust extraction. However, as you said, other tool companies are closing the gap, and possibly surpassing in several areas. Their track saw isnt miles ahead of everyone else anymore. Multiple companies are catching up on the sanders. I still follow the brand and will absolutely buy Festool again if they have something that fills a need of mine and the price is appropriate. But I am now heavily invested in the Dewalt 20/60 volt lines, and now also getting into the Makita 18V line. Festool really needs to go back to the drawing board if they want to stay ahead of the pack....or even stay WITH the pack......
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I'm kind of going the other way with regards to Festool. I believe that other brands are slowly bridging the gap, and festool is doing little to keep the gap widening other then the yearly price increases. I have around 7-8 pieces of festool gear as well as a vac, but i'm not really seeing anything new from them that really excites me.....Except the bluetooth remote for the vac's. That will work exceptionally well when i hook up the CT26 to my new Makita cordless slider
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Has anyone used these crown stops on this saw or the corded version? Does anyone use the crown stops on any Makita miter saws? They seemed like they would be helpful, but maybe they arent really all that useful..??
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So I am thinking about getting the crown stops for my new 36V miter saw. Does anyone have experience using these? they are a little spendy, so looking for first hand experience on how they work, and if they are worth the investment.
Also, would like to know the exact model number of which ones work in this saw. I have found mixed results on the exact model number, and it didnt appear my manual had them listed as an optional tool....unless I missed it.
Any help would be appreciated!
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So my first experience with any Makita tool is the new 36V miter saw. Took advantage of the home depot special to get four batteries...especially helpful since I didnt have any other Makita batteries... I am very heavily invested in the Dewalt 20/60V platform, and have been exceptionally satisfied with all of these tools. However, I really wanted a 10" miter saw as well as rails forward. When Makita came out with this saw I eagerly awaited reviews, and was pleasantly satisfied when it got high praise from several reviewerss that i have come to trust
I got the saw delivered on Friday and put it to immediate use. I am currently trimming an 1890's farm house remodel (Well, I did ALL of the work on the house, but I'm at the trimming stages now). I threw a brand new Freud Industrial LU74 into the saw and checked for square with my woodpeckers square. The saw appeared to be dead square to the fence. Took a few test cuts and was very satisfied with the cut quality. I am only cutting stain grade pine right now, and cuts this with ease. Soon I will be putting down hickory hardwood, so that will test the power a little more then pine. Ive only cased out three windows with it so far....but up to this point I am extremely happy with my purchase. I will list out a few of the pros and cons:
Pros:
-Exceptional cut quality and accuracy right out of the box
-Best dust extraction I have personally experienced on a miter saw (when paired with my Festool CT26)
-Rails forward, so fits nicely up against a wall
-Bevel adjustment at the front of the saw is nice
Cons:
-When beveling as little as 2 deg, you must fully remove the top halves of the fence instead of them just sliding out like other saws
-At least on my saw, moving the angle from side to side is a little stiff. It was a little tough to make accurate fractional changes to the miter. Moving from 45 deg to say 45 1/4 deg was a little tricky as the saw would jump due to the stiffness...maybe just a break in period
All in all a fantastic tool up to this early point.....I'm already thinking of expanding my makita tool lineup by adding the 18V Trim router
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8 hours ago, Mordekyle said:
I think blade left is a left coast thing.
I have never seen a blade right saw (before the FV) on a jobsite. I think the prevailing attitude is blade right is for homeowners.
If corded, skilsaw mag77 rules here. Other worm drives are used, as are blade left cordless saws.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYeah i'm sure it must be a regional thing....cause i'm from Illinois, and i literally grew up on jobsites, and basically every contractor i knew/know uses a blade right sidewinder. Of course the most experience I have is with my father, who worked on very high end custom homes before retiring, and never saw a blade left saw on any of those jobs. I guess thats whats good about having options, you can use what you want
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I dont have a ton to add for your original question. I do have both the 6 1/2" 20V blade left and the original 7 1/4" flexvolt blade right saw. While the 7 1/4" 20V may be better then the 6 1/2", there is no possible way it can come to any close comparison to the flexvolt saw. The flexvolt truly has NEAR corded power. The only time ive had it bog down is cutting stair horses. Those horses can really pinch a blade sometimes. other then that, NEVER miss a cord with the flexvolt
As just a side note, and i guess to stir the pot a little before christmas, I still find it very odd the number of people that refuse to use a blade right saw....? I'm not a full time carpenter, but raised by one that has 50 years of experience. He taught me to cut with either hand, looking in front of the blade, behind the blade, cutting upside down, etc......Being from the midwest, i have literally used one full sized blade left saw on a job . Is this more of a regional thing where blade left saws are more popular in some areas and sidewinders in others? I dont mean this as an insult to anyone, this is just an honest question as I see these comments come up quite often
12AH battery
in Dewalt
Posted
Looks like you were spot on......https://www.toolnut.com/on-sale/dewalt-power-tool-accessories-discount-sale/dewalt-dcb612-20v-60v-max-flexvolt-12-0ah-battery.html