Help me choose a cordless shear for studs

[novice121]

Hi guys; which cordless shear should I choose for 18 gauge, but mostly 20 gauge metal studs, and the rare 16 gauge sometimes? Also, what is the difference between a shear, and a nibbler?

 

I use my trusty Midwest offset snips 99% of the time, but sometimes I need to do some intricate cuts for whatever reason, and I never used a shear or a nibbler before, but want to know if it's worth it. 

 

Finally, which one would be cheaper to maintain blades wise?

 

Thanks for any tips.

[paulengr]

Lots of experience. I do a lot of electrical panel work. I’m always looking for the perfect tool for the job. So far nibblers come the closest but none are perfect.

A shear is like electric tin snips. They work strictly on flat surfaces. You can somewhat turn corners but not very well kind of like a saber saw. Like snips cutting across seams and corners is frustrating at best.

A nibbler is 100% different. It is more like a round high speed punch. It nibbles pieces of metal out. It can go in any direction and handles creases and corners with ease as long as the punch opening is big enough.

If I had a choice hands down I would get the nibbler. They are expensive but unless you only do flat metal and few if any cuts other than straight, shears are a waste of time.

Second do NOT bother with a nibbler or even shears near your size range. So the Dewalt that says it works on 16 gauge basically can’t handle anything over 18 gauge and even that is pushing it. I would go for a nibbler for either the Makita or Milwaukee 10 gauge or maybe the Dewalt 14 gauge tool. Neither is cordless yet.

Might want to look at this one. It’s the only one I know that splits the middle between light duty and monster nibblers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172240090874

Too light...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/332098651924

This is what you want but at $1,000 new better be sure you need one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223979942377

Only three issues with nibblers. First one is that they take out chunks of metal. So you get a fairly rough edge with sharp teeth (points) that needs to be ground off. Second it takes out a fairly big bite of metal so you need to plan accordingly. Third unlike circular saws and sawzall you can’t start in the middle. It’s like a saber saw, first drill a hole to get the blade in then start sawing. And you need a very big hole.

But this is confusing to me because you said metal STUDS. If that’s what you are doing look at the Milwaukee M18 metal cutting saw or equivalent. These are cold circular saws. It cuts metal like butter for straight cuts. It puts band saws to shame. And much cheaper than a good quality nibbler. Nibblers are more for roofing, if you need the occasional non-straight cut a saber saw works pretty good with a metal blade. Not fast but it gets the job done.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202817884976

I’ve tried others. Sawzall works very fast but it is really a demolition tool...very rough and messy cuts. The reciprocating “multi-tools” will cut soft, thin metals like say an occasional nail or screw but don’t expect it to do any significant metal cutting. A grinder with a “zip saw” blade throws a lot of sparks, burns the finish off everythjng, and leaves a melted edge but it does cut very well. With a steady hand, a good paint pen mark, and hopefully a straight edge, I can do a decent job with it. It gets in tight corners where others can’t. But it’s very, very messy and not very fast. It looks impressive with all the sparks but it’s not really.

If I was just cutting metal studs that’s like pipe. I would think that a band saw would be your best bet.

[novice121]

On 6/14/2020 at 10:27 PM, paulengr said:

Lots of experience. I do a lot of electrical panel work. I’m always looking for the perfect tool for the job. So far nibblers come the closest but none are perfect.

A shear is like electric tin snips. They work strictly on flat surfaces. You can somewhat turn corners but not very well kind of like a saber saw. Like snips cutting across seams and corners is frustrating at best.

A nibbler is 100% different. It is more like a round high speed punch. It nibbles pieces of metal out. It can go in any direction and handles creases and corners with ease as long as the punch opening is big enough.

If I had a choice hands down I would get the nibbler. They are expensive but unless you only do flat metal and few if any cuts other than straight, shears are a waste of time.

Second do NOT bother with a nibbler or even shears near your size range. So the Dewalt that says it works on 16 gauge basically can’t handle anything over 18 gauge and even that is pushing it. I would go for a nibbler for either the Makita or Milwaukee 10 gauge or maybe the Dewalt 14 gauge tool. Neither is cordless yet.

Might want to look at this one. It’s the only one I know that splits the middle between light duty and monster nibblers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172240090874

Too light...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/332098651924

This is what you want but at $1,000 new better be sure you need one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223979942377

Only three issues with nibblers. First one is that they take out chunks of metal. So you get a fairly rough edge with sharp teeth (points) that needs to be ground off. Second it takes out a fairly big bite of metal so you need to plan accordingly. Third unlike circular saws and sawzall you can’t start in the middle. It’s like a saber saw, first drill a hole to get the blade in then start sawing. And you need a very big hole.

But this is confusing to me because you said metal STUDS. If that’s what you are doing look at the Milwaukee M18 metal cutting saw or equivalent. These are cold circular saws. It cuts metal like butter for straight cuts. It puts band saws to shame. And much cheaper than a good quality nibbler. Nibblers are more for roofing, if you need the occasional non-straight cut a saber saw works pretty good with a metal blade. Not fast but it gets the job done.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202817884976

I’ve tried others. Sawzall works very fast but it is really a demolition tool...very rough and messy cuts. The reciprocating “multi-tools” will cut soft, thin metals like say an occasional nail or screw but don’t expect it to do any significant metal cutting. A grinder with a “zip saw” blade throws a lot of sparks, burns the finish off everythjng, and leaves a melted edge but it does cut very well. With a steady hand, a good paint pen mark, and hopefully a straight edge, I can do a decent job with it. It gets in tight corners where others can’t. But it’s very, very messy and not very fast. It looks impressive with all the sparks but it’s not really.

If I was just cutting metal studs that’s like pipe. I would think that a band saw would be your best bet.

 

Wow man, outstanding; what a read!!!

 

I am a metal framer, I cut 20 gauge studs with my Midwest offsets snips like a breeze, but rarely I need to cut patterns to add studs in weird areas with different angles, and corners, so I was just curious to see what's out there besides all my grinders (full disclosure, I just wanted an excuse to buy more Makita cordless tools).

 

Thank you for the knowledge, and, do you know why so many electricians here in Florida use the cheapest yellow handle straight cut snips to force their way into round cuts on my studs? lol

 

[paulengr]

You said cheap. Electricians are naturally attracted to yellow like Fluke meters?

Electricians usually use four strategies for choosing tools. First one is buy cheap and buy often. Same ones usually don’t have licenses, lose more money than they make on tract houses, and have zero pride in their work. Most are English optional. Most look for work by standing outside HD. If it looks like a rat chewed a slot, that’s your man! Work quality is good in some areas, crap in others. If you explain it in Spanish they still no comprende senior boss man.

Second type buy the most expensive (Occidental) tool belts stuffed with very specific brand names of tools. Often have truck covered in union stickers. Most don’t even know how to use a tool unless it’s a Klein screwdriver, a lineman’s pliers, or an adjustable Crescent style 14” pliers. Most of their tools are for show. They will probably use Klein dikes to cut two slots then gnaw with the 14” pliers. Klein doesn’t sell snips so that’s beneath them. Look for boogered up pliers marks everywhere. Romex will be neat but they take all day talking on the most expensive iPhone available and not much working...or they subbed it out to someone they hired at HD. So if you have Makita they snub you for not buying Dewalt or Milwaukee even if the Makita is a much better tool.

Third type buys quality. All their tools are well used. They usually have ridiculously heavy bags with way too many tools. They usually have a bunch of strange ones like a screw holding Phillips AND straight screwdriver. They have brands you never heard of and not necessarily the most expensive ones. They might have some oddball Harbor Freight tool right next to a Klein. But they take pride in their work with the mot perfect cuts. They have six snips but probably use a nibbler or saber saw to notch a steel stud, then grind or file to perfection and vacuum all shavings.. Or have a special knockout die. The slot will look factory perfect. Romex will look text book perfect. Job will take half the day just packing tools in and out.

Fourth are deeply into efficiency. They spend money where it makes sense but no more. They try to take the quickest (not least expensive) route to get something done. Wago Lever nuts for instance instead of wire nuts. The downside of this crowd is they often use the fastest but not the best method. So they might beat a hole through something with a hammer claw instead of drilling a proper hole. They cut corners. If a straight snip is fast (not near) they do it. Hard to tell from the others. If it looks like the whole job should take 4 hours but they came in early and did it in two and it looks like everythjng was rushed and it’s all crooked, Romex will take the shortest route (not straight) and will be pulled super tight with plenty of pigtails on rough in for fast backstabbed mounting.