Andrius
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Posts posted by Andrius
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On 2/26/2017 at 11:27 PM, JermFace said:
Well they've got it listed for less than I've seen so far, so thank you for that, definitely.
Has anyone located in the USA ever made a purchase from Parts Supply? The website has a UK extension but the company address is Lithuanian. I confess I've never bought anything from Lithuania before.
Your welcome, This is my store. Normally items to USA arrives in 2-6 weeks... Orders is sent from Lithuania
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Hilti is best tools in market, but here in Lithuania it`s to expensive to repair them after 3 years warranty...
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On 2017-02-10 at 8:26 PM, darrendriver said:
Hi looking for some advice ? ive just brought a dlx2040spe , I think the drill in the pair is a dhp481z , any way at slow speed the drill makes a crunching noise until you pull the trigger in a bit then it stops , I spoke to the guy I got it off and he said it has hammer in every mode? if that's the case why would they put a hammer mode on the drill if its on all the time?? if I put the trigger in half way it runs smooth but if I wanted to slow right down (say putting a screw in ) at low speed it makes a hell of a noise , any help would be great thanks
It`s gear assy fault. This is wear and tear sign. It can`t be hammering all the time, just press drill chuck to wall or table or something else and try to turn drill on and you will see difference it`s hammering or not. For that noise it can be two problems one is gear assy and second is when drill stops it stop slow not right after that when you release button. If drill stops slow wen you release button then you need new switch because electronic brake is not working.
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On 2017-01-17 at 6:42 PM, dwasifar said:
Well, the switch failed on me the other day, probably the result of being taken apart and put back together. So now I have a decision to make. I already put $17 into replacing the power cord. Now it'll be $22 to replace the switch. If I knew going in that I was going to be putting $39 in parts & shipping into this drill when a new one can be had for $74, I probably would not have done it. What say you? Is a switch replacement good money after bad? The drill is strong, it's just that the switch is flaky.
Yes! You need switch Just check carbon brushes and ball bearings Old tools is worth of repairing
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Maybe you made video of cleaning? And waiting pictures Some times all is need is to clean the tool
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1 hour ago, justinkendall said:
Nice Knipex pliers You will be happy with them
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If you wish I can try to get it in Europe and send it to. Just pm me
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I think with new batterie it will perform same s your pod style drill, but I think that two batteries will cost more then you paid for tool
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You need to change belt rollers and check ball bearings. Maybe some ball bearings are not moving smooth so belt slips because its hard to spin other parts...
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Hello, change it to new chuck. Inside you will find dirt or broken jaws gears. 30 USD for chuck? For that price you can get good metal chuck. Your chuck is 1/2" and it takes 13 mm max width. Link for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/13mm-MANGANESE-STEEL-KEYLESS-CHUCK-1-2-x-20-UNF-HEAVY-DUTY-METAL-DRILLING-63361-/401140645496?hash=item5d65d87e78:m:m2ivhKzAEf-Mwcg7Q3S6WJg
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I will go for Hitachi because they making good tools But it`s 26 dollars so I think if it will not work good you will not be sad
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40 minutes ago, JimboS1ice said:
I do have a Makita mag holder on there
Jimbo
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI love that holder because of it`s stregth
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I love this new tools, they are so nice for hand And why you are not using Makita ultra mag bit holder B-28531?
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just clean it
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it cool Star Trek
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1 hour ago, jeffmcmillan said:
Took me watching that video three times to get what the big deal is. Look at 0:35 the hammer is skipping positions. That means more time for it to speed up and a higher energy impact while running at a higher speed. Skipping positions means they can stick more anvils in there to increase power transferred by the mechanism. Now that's a great idea. I'm excited.
That`s really cool
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Thank for comparison, nice new drill
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Its normal because its striker inside cylinder and it going back becouse of hit to chisel and then gong forward from compresion and back agaun... But if your tool starts to kick back to your hand then you need replace o-rings in hammer mechanism.
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On 2016-08-22 at 1:48 PM, KnarlyCarl said:
So you know it is centered, then I make sure the jaws are on the flats. But then I give a little extra twist by hand once the bit is in place to tighten down a little more
I am doing it in same way and ot allways work
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Check carbon beushes and check armature ball bearings. And when you take motor apart check yoke unit for dust or some dirt on it. Clean dust from switch with air compressor. Then check if your chuck not moving from gear assy, because its ball bearing inside and some times its need to be replaced. And clean batterie contacts for dust for good connection with batterie. If you will burn it I can buy it
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check tools dimensions and you will know that But I think you can find case to fit. What is new model you have and old model?
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On 2016-08-18 at 2:14 AM, KnarlyCarl said:
I think you need to hit him fingers with hammer - it will help
Power when i push button but disappear s
in Makita
Posted
Hello, I think it will be armature fault. Just try to connect motor without switch to battery and check how motor runs - I think it will not run.