jeffmcmillan
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Posts posted by jeffmcmillan
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18 hours ago, khariV said:
That makes sense for the 7/16 shank on bits for the HH, but I was actually thinking about 7/16 impact drivers. Specifically, I've seen this one around and was wondering what it's used for:
Just drilling giant holes? Wouldn't this thing kick the HH's butt up and down the street for self-feed bits and augers, of course assuming that clearance isn't an issue.
Those use a 7/16 hex because the auger bits already were 7/16 and no one wants to pay for multiple auger sets. Cordless impacts for utilities work are a fairly recent development, but 7/16 hex bits have been around a long time. Someone posted an ancient 7/16 hex twist bit they found recently but I can't remember where.
As for why they use 7/16 hex with an adapter to 1/2 square and not the other way around, a 1/2 square to 7/6 hex adapter will fall off when you pull the auger out unless you have a pin detent which is a pain to change up on a pole.
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FYI the video has the start point set halfway through so I was really confused at first.
If Dewalt wanted to give it that capacity, they would have increased the size, but most people want this as a more compact miter saw especially with flexvolt out. Also I'm guessing his build depends on some tight tolerances that a machinist could get but would incur additional manufacturing cost.
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2 hours ago, khariV said:
So, on a sort of unrelated note, why does 7/16 even exist? Why wouldn't you just go bigger with 1/2 or smaller with 3/8? Is there some specific reason there's a 7/16 set of sockets?
Most 1/2 inch chucks won't fit a 1/2 inch hex bit because the points of the hex are a little more than 9/16 inch wide whereas the points of a 7/16 inch hex bit are only a tiny bit more than 1/2 inch wide.
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It's extremely rare, but not unheard of to have stab connections without a release. Typically there's a nearby slot for a screwdriver to relieve pressure on the connector. Opening it to release the wires is fine if it's possible. You're pretty lucky there because most stab connections have snap together enclosures that you can't open without breaking.
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I still pull out the corded drill sometimes. Great for production style work if you want to maintain high RPM at high torque, but more often it's just a beater drill so I don't have to lend out a good one.
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3 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:
Gloves will always get in the way of tight spaces i've noticed... but these light gloves need to be full hand gloves, I would feel weird, like I'm wearing sandels.... I don't do sandels.
Also, at $4?? i can expect them to last 2 uses, they scream "As seen on TV" gimmicky at this point in time LOL
I take it you're not a fingerless gloves guy. Neither am I.
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Let's get over this myth that there's a huge cost to making brushless tools. There isn't. It's a few cents more in the controller, a few less on the motor, and a decent NRE cost spread across every tool they sell. That last cost shrinks even more when they reuse a motor for multiple tools though.
Hitachi's brushless rotary hammer was already going to have active speed control so the costs for brushless were mostly there already and they cashed in on the savings and marketing of going brushless.
Festool was going for the tiniest sander they could and brushless saved space.
Every full size electric breaker hammer is hitting the max power output of a standard outlet and breaker so they use a brushless motor to avoid wasting any of that power. The same approach is used in some other high draw tools like the pressure washers and compressors mentioned above.
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1 hour ago, comp56 said:
wouldn't mind trying one of these tapes
But can you play baseball with it?
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1 hour ago, Conductor562 said:
I've almost bought the right angle drill at least a half dozen times, just never went through with it.
If you have hex bits or bit holders, which i figure you do, try the impact instead. There are plenty of times the angle impact will fit but the drill won't.
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8 minutes ago, Conductor562 said:
IMO the Titan kit is the one to have. It's very comprehensive and affordable, and it comes in a very nice case that doesn't feel chintzy at all.
How are the bits themselves? I've had so many break. Seems like removing support from the bit is part of the security.
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Things like this that make me want to smack an engineer.
Why do we need security bits when we already have half stripped phillips.
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3 hours ago, comp56 said:
you can't make apple pie with a toaster
Challenge accepted. Now to buy a toaster.
Until you hit cabinet saws the Dewalt fence beats everything.
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After using a grinder with one hand for a few hours the m12 grips feel downright dainty.
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Bosch makes a few really good recip blades but the rest are just average. It's not like some other manufacturers that are just depending on people buying the same brand as their saw, but diablo is generally the beset to pick up.
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Anyone know what the differences is between the southwire and milwaukee branded crimpers? The look pretty much the same to me.
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12 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:
It's OK you can put one of their videos up here
..
Those headlamps are dangerous when you're drunk man. Even more when you're hungover.
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I think they're trying to avoid adding an entire programming language to it, but I suspect that's where it will go and it would be pretty useful.
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11 minutes ago, JimboS1ice said:
https://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-31194-2-5-5mm-2-piece-measureup-slotted-phillips-screwdriver-set/
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSuddenly I'm sitting her wondering why all screwdrivers don't have measurements stamped on. It would be really useful.
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19 minutes ago, BMack37 said:
It's virtually the same thing with the Irwins; when it doesn't work, it doesn't work and the Knipex/Felo will work. If you have insulation that stretches the Irwin doesn't work because it only cuts a small part of the insulation. This is why i use the cable shears to pre-cut the RG-6 cable. The price is definitely a down side but between the two, you can easily strip all common wires.
My point with the Irwin style was if they don't work you can manually press on the jaws a bit for certain wire. Maybe it's bad luck or couple bad pairs from knipex but they just don't work for me. Side by side the Irwins have stripped wires the Knipex wouldn't. It could also be good luck with the Irwin pairs because I've heard of some having the wrong tension and won't strip anything.
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6 hours ago, grampage said:
Has anyone tried those knipex strippers?
10 hours ago, BMack37 said:I like those mixed with this style:
The Irwin is good with super thin wires but it can struggle where the Knipex/Felo shines. For coax cable RG-6 I use a Knipex cable shear to score the insulation and the Irwin to strip, otherwise it has a lot of trouble. I don't do coax enough that I want a dedicated tool. I'd recommend the Irwin and a traditional style for someone starting, the Knipex/Felo style is more of an easy of use and nicer feel/lighter package.
BTW, the Knipex is better than the Felo. The red portion is grippy rubber and it's super comfortable. Also the jaws strip and open to release the cut insulation, the Felo's jaws remain closed and sometimes the insulation sticks. The Irwin sometimes has the insulation stick also.
I've used those and hate them compared to the Irwin style. The problem for me is the cutter is a set depth from the grabber so if it doesn't work you're stuck. The Irwin style adjust the two individually by pressure and the pressure is easily adjustable from almost nothing (works on 30AWG) to pretty high, and most importantly when it maxes out you can manually apply pressure to strip pretty much anything that fits in the jaws. That's particularly useful for teflon insulation or multiple wires. Not to mention you can much more easily get to the middle of a cable to strip a foot or so of sheathing. I've even used a ziptie on the handle to hold insulation open and tap into the middle of cables. That's all ignoring that I can get three Irwins for the price of a Knipex.
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At that price I'd buy two rocket lights and stand one in the bucket with me.
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I'm surprised people haven't started reselling tools with their receipt (or a scan or copy) so the buyer can get the original warranty anyway.
I get that this is sort of cheating, but if the manufacturer agreed to support it for 5 years after the original sale it shouldn't matter who it's passed to.
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47 minutes ago, comp56 said:
I've seen some good sanding belts but this is nuts.....I have to get me some of these bad boys....https://www.combatabrasives.com/
That is terrifying. I want some.
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Countersink Bits
in Accessories
Posted
Do you really need five sizes of countersink? Having one or two really nice ones has always served me better especially in steel.