rrich1
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Posts posted by rrich1
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The vertical divider required me to cut a notch in the horizontal rail. A whole lot of measuring before I actually cut these.
Pic showing one of the drawer runners and their tenons.
Next it was on the panels. I resawed 4/4 boards on the band saw and book matched them. This is where you can never have too many clamps. [emoji16] About here is where I realized 2 of my back panels were too short. I rough cut them to length of the side dimensions and not the rear. This made me scramble looking for off cuts of mine to use for new panels.
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After the grooves were cut I put a taper on the legs. I used a router jig and flush cut bit for this. I cleaned the pieces up on the jointer.
Up next was the top rails. The tops of the legs needed a groove cut out to accept the joinery for the top rails. Table saw made quick work for both the legs and the rails. Once that was cut I rough cut out the curve on the band saw. I finished it up with a drill press drum sander and then a card scraper.
Next were the vertical dividers. There is a large one that runs from the bottom to the top down the middle as well as two smaller ones for the top row of drawers.
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With the rear joint pieces cut out either by router or table saw it was time to focus on the front mortises. A lot of these were dual tenons as well. See second pic for all the white! This didn't even include the top rails which added even more! A drill press made pretty short work of hogging out the waste. The rest was all chisel work.
After those were done I mathed out the placement of the groove for the panels to fit in to. I nailed it on the first try and was extremely happy. The side panels were actually two panels with a divider. I again used the drill press to hog out the mortise, chiseled it, and fit the tenon from the table saw.
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With the legs partially done, more work needed to be completed at a later step, it was time to focus on the horizontal rails, front and rear. These needed dual tenons to fit into the dual mortises. I cut them on the table saw. The white part shows what was cut off.
I accidentally made the two middle front dividers too short front to back and had to add a piece to the rear. I glued them up and flush trimmed them on the router table. I then cut them to the correct dimensions. Worked really well and got to use scraps up.
To cut out the half lap style joints for the rear dividers to hold the drawer slides on I used a router template to hog out the waste. I then chiseled the edges square.
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After completing my son's bedroom set it was time to turn to my daughters set. They currently share a room until my youngest is able to sleep through the night. Then the boys will share.
I decided to make her set out of walnut with ambrosia maple. I found some nice pieces of walnut from a local Sawyer for a really good price. The plans for this project are available from www.fineWoodworking.com
First I had to pick out the lumber and rough cut it to size on the band saw, jig saw, and circular saw. Non square boards shouldnt be cut down on a table saw due to kickback and binding.
There are A LOT or mortise and tenons in this build and decided to do them by hand/drill press/ and router table. I don't have a hollow chisel mortiser. This went surprisingly quick. I did manage to mess up and place a mortise where I didn't need it. I took a piece of scrap, oriented it in the same grain direction, and rounded over the edges. Once glued in I planed it down and was virtually gone from sight.
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Thanks!Super impressive!
I need to start a new thread for my current bedroom set build for my daughter.
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Depending on what you are doing it can be though. I use my band saw a lot for stopped cuts like box joints. If the table isn't square to the blade it will cut deeper either on the bottom or top compared to the other side.No that's not that big of a deal because it doesn't make a huge difference what's important is left to right so it cuts straight and doesn't get kinked up.
What saw do you have? Does the instructions tell you how to do it and it just isn't working?
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A lot of people me included use the microjig dovetail clamps to secure a sacrificial fence.
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Link to my miter station build thread. I don't believe I put exact dimensions in the thread but I can get them for you.
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Bosch has their circular saw that won't accept the core battery without a retrofit. I think the idea of such large batteries were not on their radar when these tools were designed years ago. Most they were thinking of going smaller and more portable .
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Yep.
Awesome. Judging by the size probably a domino 500 and the box o' dominos?
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Oh there is not doubt about me using it often. Lol. I actually haven't used it yet but have had it a few weeks. I just got the domino systainer set the other day with the different sized cutters.
I bet you’ll end up using it more than you think, we’ll definitely up your face frame game
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It's definitely a tool that isn't needed but very helpful and time saving. There are still plenty of times were I will make traditional mortise and tenons (like on my dresser build). It helped a lot in panel glue ups I did previously. So I am looking forward to that.
Jealous
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[emoji1787].What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it?
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
Some type of joinery machine [emoji848]
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Uh oh
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New garage fan from Menards. Very powerful. I put it on low and still feel it across the garage. Already been using it during my hand planing. [emoji23]
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I saw you had gotten one. Haven't had a chance to use mine yet.
I grabbed one of his dowel plates too, thing is nice
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Got 2 more 12" Yost parallel clamps and a drill press spindle sanding kit.
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Got the rockler dust right expandable hose a d dust right fittings. Should make going from one machine to another easier. Also got a dfm tool works dowel plate. I've actually used dowels in quite a bit of my projects. Will be nice to use wood that matches.
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My friend gave me a duplicate tenoning jig that he had. Perfect timing for this dresser build I'm doing.
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Picked up a stahwhille tool box from a KC tool deal of the day last month. Also got a set of wera chisel drivers. Both of these will be dedicated to the model A when I get it later this month.
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Ordered the Incra aluminum router plate with mag lock rings. Seems nice and heavy duty. Also ordered a template to make my life easy.
I thought I was going to have to drill a hole for the above table adjustment but I guess not. The only issue is that it is on the back right and not the front lest like the kreg plate. This rotates the router. If I don't like it this way I'll rotate it and drill a hole where it won't be so close to the fence.
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I've been contemplating buying this. Since I am getting a 1931 Ford model AA I'll need to grease the fittings a lot. I don't have any DeWalt tools though.Picked up the 20v DeWalt grease gun
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The storage bed is finally finished and my 4 year old loves it. I originally planned to get it finished last month but some shop upgrades slowed the build down a little. The rear drawers will be used for long term storage.
The bed completes the set for my son. The set consisted of a bed, chest of drawers, night stand, and hamper. Instead of using drawer pulls on the drawers I routed in a handle pull like on the hamper. This does two things. 1. It ties the hamper and bed together and 2. It keeps my kids from ripping the handles off, skinning their shins, or using them as steps.
Overall I'm happy with how the bed turned out. The drawers slide easily and my son can get in and out without much issue. He will hit a growth spurt shortly I'm sure anyways.
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Fine woodworking low dresser/chest of drawers build
in Woodworking
Posted
I made new rear panels (quick...guess which ones) and the are held in place with the previously cut groove. They are thicler than the groove so they needed a slight rabbit on the back. The panels are locked in with each other with a ship lap joint. A small chamfer on the edges gives depth and hides any alignment imperfections.
I chose the side panels from the nicest figured and colored pieces I had. While not all the same they look good together.
Next I cut the front pieces down to give depth to the piece. You can now see shadow lines and puts them on a different plane than the legs. I really liked this detail.
A quick left chamfer on the bottom helps to keep from getting any tear out when being moved.
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