Pouet
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Posts posted by Pouet
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Do you think Dewalt will also come out with a light similar to milwaukee radius light? Or is this tower light better and as compact?
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12 minutes ago, kornomaniac said:
Well as far as I know charging lithium batteries below freezing temperatures kills the cells. That's something you'd actually want to avoid.
Perhaps the DeWalt batteries/chargers were protecting themselves and your milaukee batteries are possible dieing ?
I think a frozen lithium battery that is cold charged is a potential hazard (it can fail later on and explodes). Dewalt has probably some built-in protection to protect you from doing it.
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Well count me in if Dewalt introduces new 12v tools with slide packs. I hate the pistol grips. It 's just too bulky for my hands.
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17 minutes ago, Turner85 said:
Do 20v max lasers exist? Or did I read something wrong, I know about the 12v which I was actually putting money aside for, so im glad I stumbled across this thread.
Big rotary lasers only. Not the laser you are going to use if you are remodeling a kitchen.
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32 minutes ago, btharmy said:
You can still get batteries online.
Still. I would be pretty mad. A laser is not the cheapest tool around and to release it on a platform that you know is going to get discontinued is a bit dishonest.
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It's hard to believe if it's true. They just released new 12v lasers. Great way to piss off customers...
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Thank everyone for the suggestions! I think I'll try the Dewalt that is foldable and retractable. The thing I don't like with the fastback is that when you are close to the wall (which happen a lot when cutting drywall), you lack space to open the knife. Maybe I'm exaggerating the motion but I really miss having a retractable knife right now.
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Drywall sander please :-)
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I'm looking to buy a new utility knife. I have the Milwaukee fastback 2 at the moment which I kind of like but I was wondering if anyone has a better suggestion? The popular choices seem to be Milwaukee and Dewalt. Anything else I'm missing? I love German hand tool brands like Wera, Knipex, Wiha, ... Do any of these brands make a great utility knife that I'm not aware of?
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Another thing I really like about the Wera bits is that they are numbered and color coded. This way it is much faster to find a given bit.
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On 9/11/2017 at 3:26 AM, Stercorarius said:
Yes I am just an angry a-hole.
So mileage is the right word then? Not distance?
And no less current doesn't mean less resistance at all. The resistance will stay the same. It is a fixed variable.
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18 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:
Yes but higher voltage is more efficient. You have less resistance and less loss to heat is what I believe he was getting at. No one is saying that the initial potential energy in a battery is going to be changed by how it is drawn.
You don't have less resistance, you have less current. Take the time to read my comments again. I said higher voltage is in theory better because it reduces heat losses. I don't know why you are arguing with me about something I already said was true. What I said that's was wrong to say is that choosing a voltage is about choosing between runtime and power. It's not because runtime, power and work are not independent variables.
QuoteJust if he's confusing anyone by tension he means voltage. Why use the term tension instead? Couldn't tell you.
Sorry if it's confusing anyone. Tension is the proper term and the one we were using in school but yes it's the same as voltage.
QuoteSo you can use smaller wire and other components. The components being where the gains are made. Wiring and components are a bigger deal when you're dealing with industrial wiring, but also applicable to the internals of power tools.
Well ok then but if you use smaller wires, you increase the resistance and therefore the heat losses. I think Dewalt would prefer to increase the runtime then save a bit of money on smaller components. I could be wrong, I don't know what their costs are.
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44 minutes ago, jkeating3 said:
Considering your degree, I would assume your working knowledge is greater than mine, but ignoring losses due to heat seems like it wrecks the analysis.
Energy loss due to heat is energy that isn't doing work, and higher amperage is what causes that heat loss. So with higher voltage, you can use less amperage, which means less energy loss due to heat, which means more of that energy is going towards doing work. To me, it's not about a bigger tank, it's about not having a fuel leak.
All that is to say that higher voltage tools can push themselves harder without hemorrhaging power. But again, I defer to your expertise.
I was neglecting heat losses to explain the concept that power,. runtime and work are linked together and not independent variables. I don't think any engineer would neglect heat losses. That would be crazy. That's what the job is all about. I wrote the same exact thing about higher voltages in another comment, that reducing current would mean fewer heat losses.
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16 minutes ago, dwain said:
But only if you maintain the cable size. We just don't have the kind of data (and possibly expertise also) necessary to have this debate scientifically.
Which is why I think real world tests are the way to go
The smaller cable size will rise the resistance so the equation is still valid. And I think it would be stupid to raise the voltage and then using smaller cables. Why give yourself all the trouble of using a new tension in the first place if you are going to use smaller cables?
But I totally agree with you that you can't judge a tool just by looking at the claimed numbers. That's why reviews are important. There are just too many factors at play. I have no opinion on which tool is better and nothing against Dewalt or Makita. But it's important to me that we don't spread false scientific statements whatever you may think of a brand.
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14 minutes ago, dwain said:
I think there is a little bit of nuance to the whole runtime v power discussion too.
- Total Wh matters a lot
- The number of cells and the output capacity (amps) of those cells is VERY important
- All cells will drain with less efficiency as they reach their upper-band temperatures
- some motors are inherently more efficient than others
- the size of the motor matters. a larger drill will have better efficiency for bigger tasks than a small drill. a small drill will have better efficiency for smaller holes.
- voltage is a factor. higher voltage means thinner cables, but thicker insulation (for instance). I'm not sure how much a factor voltage is, but it is A factor.
- the electronics and controls that limit the cells and tool play a large factor too
My point being that it is difficult to know just from specs. Real world test across a variety of applications (e.g. 2x4 pine cuts, 2x10 sleepers and then ripping LVLs) is the only real way to know.
Every manufacturer is going to choose the test that suits their tool best.
Exactly, the name of the game is efficiency which basically means reducing the amount of lost energy due to heat and there are many many factors involved in that equation. Picking a battery voltage is not about choosing between power or runtime but about balancing some variables like weight, power, ... given the expected use of the tool.
The reason why higher tension is potentially better is because energy losses in a circuit are equal to current² * resistance. Therefore, if you lower the current needed by rising the voltage, you are in theory supposed to get less energy lost in terms of heat. But again that's just one variable and there are other factors involved that need to be checked before coming to a conclusion.
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3 hours ago, kornomaniac said:
We're not talking about trucks and we're not talking about corded tools.
Keep the discussion and comparisons between cordless tools and then 4/5th of your post was unnecessary
It's a very simple statement: batteries have a limited amount of energy. And every cordless tool is a balance act between power and runtime.
If you make your tool stronger/faster/more powerfull you'll use up more energy.
That's all that statement said in the case of cordless tools like what we're discussing on the forum.
You will use more energy but you will get the same amount of useful work out of the battery because Work = Power * runtime - heat losses. The same job will require the same amount of energy if we are neglecting heat losses. The only difference is one tool will finish faster than the other.
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6 hours ago, kornomaniac said:
Power(watt) = voltage * amps. That formula doesn't change because your tool has your favourite colour.
If you make a tools more powerfull ( to finish the job faster as you said) you either going to need more volts or more amps or both.
Listen I have a degree in electrical engineering. I think I know what is power is and I know what the scientific meaning of work is.
If your battery has 200 Wh of energy into it, you are going to produce 200 Wh of work out no matter what the voltage, if we are neglecting what you are loosing in term of heat. It doesn't matter what voltage your tool is. Your battery will always have the same amount of energy inside of it. You can't create new energy out of thin air just by switching the voltage.
If you are drilling the same hole with a 20V or a 60V drill, you are going to need the same amount of energy (again if we are neglecting heat losses which could be higher given a more powerful tool). The voltage has nothing to do with the energy required. One tool will complete the job faster than the other but your batteries will have lost the same amount of energy at the end of the job. It's basic thermodynamics.
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15 hours ago, kornomaniac said:
As always power and runtime are linked too eachother. Make a tool more powerfull and you'll limit runtime. Go for extended runtimes and you'll lack power's because batteries only have so much energy that needs to be distributed between either power or runtime.
It's not that clear cut. A more powerful tool will finish most of the time its job faster so you don't end up using more energy (of course some of it is loss through extra heat). The trade off is more between weight and power in my opinion.
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46 minutes ago, khariV said:
I love the Eureka Zone stuff. I always wanted to get into their system. Recently, however, I've come to the realization that I'm just not as much into tinkering as I was when I was younger. I have so little time to enjoy my hobbies that hacking together a solution from a box full of parts just isn't the fun that it was back in my 20's when I'd swap out speed crystals on my video cards to squeeze a few extra MHz out the chips. As I watched more and more of the EZ videos and read posts on their forums, I kind of got the impression that there's a lot of hacking that goes on to get the most out of the EZ system and I honestly just don't have the time anymore.
Totally agreed but I like the idea. The jointer is one of the tool that scares me the most.
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7 minutes ago, khariV said:
In theory, yes you could. The problem is going to be that routers are designed to go up and down / back and forth, are built to include an adjustable base and have bit depth setting capability. There's just no easy way to do this with an electric hand planer as it only goes in one direction and has to have the front base plate at the correct depth. You would essentially have to mount the planer from above on a jig that could set the depth and then run it across the wood. The depth setting component would itself probably be more expensive and complicated than buying a consumer grade planer.
I admit that I don't have tons of experience building these sorts of jigs and I image the mounting of the planer itself would be problematic unless there's empty space to screw into the body of the tool without hitting something important inside, but I am quite certain that it could be done.
I know the guy from eureka zone use to do it. I always wanted to try it. Looks safer than a big jointer.
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Would it not be possible to build a sled like that but for the planer instead?
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I was just thinking last week that a small 12v planer would be terrific. Didn't expect a trim router as well :-) Hopefully we get them in north america :-)
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1 hour ago, paddyjones said:
This winter Bosch will release both a planer and a router in the 12v here in europe. 6,0 AH batteries have been here for some months now
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWow sounds great. I suppose the planer will have a smaller plate. Would be perfect to do doors and countertop edges :-) Will they work with the guide rails?
A rotary hammer would be great too.
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4 minutes ago, JakeDewalt said:
Yes Spade tip sucks .
Only trade I know of still using is them damn electricians .
They are the easiest to clean though so they make sense for decorative cover plates
so whats next in the dewalt pipeline?
in Dewalt
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Where?