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rrmccabe

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Posts posted by rrmccabe

  1. 7 minutes ago, SetBuilder said:

    What are the advantages of the 700?

    Just bigger tenons is all.

     

    If you were building beds out of 8/4 it would be the better choice.


    But its also a lot larger and heavier too.  I bought the 500 as it meets my needs better. The one SUPER cool thing about the 700 is they offer these connectors not available for the 500.

     

    https://www.festool.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=201827&name=Connector-for-DOMINO-joining-machine-EV-32-Set

     

    Doing stuff mid board I just have been clamping my short track saw guide and using it as a fence for the domino.

    • Like 1
  2. 4 hours ago, SetBuilder said:

    Rich

    I know next to nothing about hand planes. If I was going to purchase my first hand plane what would you suggest, or do you know of a hand plane 101 buyers guide?

    Thanks

    Well I guess it depends what you plan to do with it.  I have a feeling your needs are similar to mine and you are NOT planning on flattening long planks with a huge #8 plane. I am a hybrid woodworker and use planes to improve in my power tool results.


    I think the #62 low angle jack plane is one of the best all around planes you can buy if you are just looking for a nice plane that does a lot of things. Also a block plane is great to have as well.

     

    In my opinion all planes regardless of cost will provide almost equal results if they have a good blade in them. The thicker blades often perform better because of less flex/chatter in the blade. IBC makes some nice blades to retrofit many planes.

     

    Also as far as brand quality (once again my personal opinion) I feel that Lie Nielsen makes the best plane if you exclude all the exotic stuff. Veritas is a close second. The only difference I have seen is how much work they need out of the box. Some planes might need the sole flattened and of course the blade sharpened and maybe a little filing here and there. The Lie Nielsen plane is pretty much pristine out of the box and ready to go to work. They are almost too pretty to use.

     

    The higher dollar planes usually have less backlash on the adjusting knob because their machining is very nice.  Many of the cheaper planes have sloppy adjustments which means you have to back the wheel way out to retract the blade and then screw it back in until it starts to put pressure on the blade.

     

    I like planes that you can adjust the front part of sole to open or close the throat. Smaller throat opening means less tear out on figured woods so its nice to be able to adjust that easily.  Some planes require you to get out a screwdriver and loosen and move the frog that holds the blade.  I am short on patience so I prefer easy adjustment :)

     

    My absolute favorite technique in the shop is a plane and shooting board.  I have no idea why every power tool shop does not have one.

     

    Most modern planes like Lie Nielson and Veritas  are copies of old Stanley and Record planes anyway. They are just remaking them and often in the case of Veritas and Lie Nielsen make slight improvements on the original design.

     

    Beyond normal smoothing type planes, a router plane and shoulder plane can get you out of trouble fixing up joints.

     

    But its all about being sharp and I consider myself a student in this area. I am learning..... I can sharpen a plane blade perfectly but need to learn how to do it by hand in 30 seconds so I do it more often.

     

    One of the things I have learned in my Rob Cosman class is a planed finish is much better than one sanded smooth.

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. I am running out of things on my wish list for LN as I dont have huge hand tool goals. I dont have any mortise chisels and not sure if that is something I will need for my woodworking style/project. But I have admired and thought about them. Trying to use domino's so I can justify my purchase. LOL

     

    I think the only thing on my LN list at this point is a 4 1/2 and also a spoke shave.  I also am thinking about buying extra blades so I can swap them out and sharpen a couple at a time.  I am trying to give up on sharpening jigs so struggling with the whole extra blade thing.

  4. This look great. So did you card scrape the face to match or was that just for glue.

     

    I am currently watching a back episode in my Rob Cosman class where he is building a chest of drawers. He left the face extra wide and hand planed it down to the finish plywood. Its quite a process and not much room for error.  I need to practice.

     

    But nice job !

  5. 6 hours ago, khariV said:

    The auto clean version CT36 AC can be HEPA or it can have auto clean enabled but not both st the same time. The auto clean function apparently isn't compatible with the HEPA filter so you have to use a different filter if you have it in AC mode. 

    That does not surprise me.  I still have yet to use my HEPA filter but I really dont have the need in my environment like some do.

     

    @SetBuilder with the price of bags one of these would pay for itself quick.

     

    http://www.festoolproducts.com/oneida-axd000009-ultimate-festool-dust-deputy.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CJzVpq7c4tMCFYu2wAodW7UNKQ

  6. 2 hours ago, Jronman said:

    I think Festool has an autoclean vac but it isn't hepa.

    They have been HEPA since the beginning. my 15 year old CT22 is HEPA.

     

    @kornomaniac not sure I understand your question. Just because its autoclean does not mean the bag does not fill up just as fast.

     

    The UDD from Oneda cyclone box is larger than a bag and I can run a small planer into it. Thats really not recommended but does work.

     

     

  7. I have decided to give up on jigs and learn how to do it freehand.

     

    I have been in Rob Cosman's class for 3 months now and have come to the conclusion he is probably right that you need to learn how to sharpen a plane blade in 30 seconds and a chisel in 10 seconds. Currently, it takes me several minutes to do either and because of that I dont do them as often as I should.  I might even buy a couple extra plane blades for my most commonly used planes (low angle jack and block plane) so I can have a second set ready.

     

    Not sure I can pull this off but gonna try it. A sharp chisel or plane does not last long.

    • Like 1
  8. I would do that but my shop layout does not facilitate two tables. But I did consider building a 24" woodworking bench and a 24" MDF torsion box bench that would plane with it and put them side by side. I was just was considered about the woods expanding at different rates and ending up with a step when it was humid vs. dry.

     

    Ideally, I bench the size of yours would be perfect and then a large assy table elsewhere would be great. Just cant give up the space to do that.

    • Like 1
  9. My biggest issue is I have enjoyed the luxury of a large center island assembly bench and dont want to give that up. Its hard to build a nice woodworking bench that is 40" wide so you can do other work on it too.


    I keep going back to some type of hybrid bench out of MDF either vertically laminated or torsion box style but need to incorporate good vises and dog holes.

     

    If it was not for expansion differences in the materials it would be easy, but just have not come up with right solution yet !

  10. I cant imagine doing any significant drawing on a phone or tablet. To me the main benefit would be viewing and measuring things.

     

    So the price comparison does not matter in my application as its not that usable for me. 

     

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