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fm2176

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Posts posted by fm2176

  1. A lot of stores still have magazine racks, though I rarely see anyone perusing them.  Let's face it, the smart phone and internet have largely supplanted books, magazines, and even TV as many people's hobby (or distraction) of choice.  From the 1990s until probably five or so years ago I regularly bought magazines, with the requisite stack in the bathroom and a few usually near the bed and chair.  I had a subscription to the print edition of Game Informer until a couple of years ago, despite rarely playing video games, and also subscribed to The Family Handyman for a year or two.  As a life member, I was getting VFW Magazine (and need to change the address as that house has since been sold), and also got American Rifleman during the couple of annual memberships I had with the NRA.  Admittedly, I was "that guy" that kept all of my magazines, so I have literal time capsules of mid-1990s video game news and twenty-plus year old gun magazines showing off the latest and greatest tactical guns allowed under the now expired Assault Weapons Ban of 1994.  There's also the collection of '80s-'90s Playboys, probably mildewed over in my garage down south.  Over the years I have cut down on my archives quite a bit, and I'll probably have another big bonfire in the coming months.

     

    Now, the only magazine I make a habit of buying is The Backwoodsman.  Sadly, it is one of the few magazines that isn't a glorified ad nowadays.  Years ago, I was an avid reader of American Survival Guide (ASG).  I still have some issues from the 1990s and though some date themselves the articles were pretty good, with ads that supplemented the content.  In 2013, I found ASG at the Bagram Exchange.  Different look, and come to find out entirely different magazine, with articles recommending high priced survival gear that many true survivalists can't afford, or at least wouldn't spend money on.  In 2003, while in Iraq, I looked forward to getting Shotgun News and Small Arms Review, both of which were informative and greatly increased my knowledge of firearms (including identifying the first vz. 58 we captured, which everyone else thought was a weird AK).  Now, it's been years since I last even bothered looking for those publications.  The Backwoodsman is a great mix of practical survival and bushcraft articles, frontier tales, firearms reviews and recommendations, and DIY stuff.  Past articles include everything from building a cabin from pallets to making a dugout canoe.  Sadly, the founder recently died, but his son is carrying the tradition forward, and most ads are family owned enterprises like book and knife stores.

     

    I personally consider the Family Handyman to still be worth a read on occasion, as last I checked the price isn't as high as a lot of other magazines, and there are some good articles and how-to guides.  Most others, though, regardless of subject matter, seem to be little more than shills for whoever places ads or sponsors them.  Maybe that 2013 copy of ASG ruined me on modern magazines, as reading about how I "need" this $200 item to survive three days in the wilderness just seems ridiculous (not to mention how poorly a lot of modern commercial items hold up these days).  With that stated though, does anyone else enjoy the occasional magazine, and if so, which ones do you recommend?

  2. 1 hour ago, regopit said:

    As of right now I own 2 Flex tools. The FLEX VCE 33 LAC 9 Gallon HEPA Vacuum and the FLEX GE 5  Giraffe Wall and Ceiling Sander. They are very well made and work well. I have had these tool going on 5 years now and have had no complaints.

     

    I have exactly zero.  Not saying I won't invest in the platform...ToolGuyd shared their new modular toolbox system yesterday, and some of the commenters seem to think that Flex offers some of the best tools on the market right now.  Flex seems like a great brand, but I need to do a holistic assessment of my future needs and streamline platforms at some point.  Besides Flex, Craftsman, Skil, Makita, and Porter Cable, I have every major "pro" or "semi-pro" cordless platform available in the US.

    • Like 1
  3. Let's face it, the most ubiquitous tool in modern society is the smart phone.  Modern phones have all but replaced landlines, desktop computers, fax machines, pagers, personal digital assistants (PDA), calculators, portable gaming systems, radios, cable TV, and too much more to list.  Many of us rely on a phone daily, even if only for business related calls.  

     

    A few years back, I realized my luck with phones had died out.  I'd only had a few smart phones previously without issue, but around 2017 my ZTE got snagged on a van door and cracked.  After that, a couple of LG G4s lived short lives (one due to a damaged charging port and the other cracked), and a subsequent phone died.  So, I started looking at rugged phones.

     

    DeWalt and Caterpillar are two brands that offer these, but I figured I'd look beyond the branding, color schemes, and marketing.  This led me to the Blackview 9700 Pro.  I'm on my second now...the first met its fate during a drunken impromptu water sledding session.  A local river spot has a nice 12-24" deep section with smooth stones, and the mountain cur was more than capable of pulling me through, while the older lab did the same for my kids.  Anyway, a couple of screws had come loose, breaking the water seal and ultimately damaging the phone's internals.  Oops.

     

    I type this on my second BV9700 Pro.  It's been going strong for almost two years now, and I convinced the wife to get one as she was breaking screens every few months.  She's actually on her second now, after leaving her first on a vehicle one too many times and finally cracking its screen.

     

    I like being able to rinse my phone off, leave it in the rain, or not worry about its location while pressure washing the house.  It's also held up to the occasional drop on asphalt or concrete. 

     

    Bringing this back to the subject of tools, my BV9700 Pro has a Toolbox folder (see attachment) with a variety of useful apps for various jobs.

     

     

    Screenshot_20220306085640.png

    • Thanks 1
  4. 2 hours ago, Triglyph said:

    I put a 60V battery on my trimmer, used it for 10 minutes. Now it won't come off. Totally stuck. I've pushed the release as hard as I can, it moves a little. Even tried with two people. How can I unmount this battery? No problems with my other Dewalt tools.

    Unless the release button is completely broken it should come off, but it could be either a tight fit or a heat related issue.  Try a little tap with a non-marring or plastic dead blow hammer.

  5. I forgot about MetaboHPT's MultiVolt system.  They have a brushless jigsaw that can be used with the AC adapter.. Cost will be a bit high, though, at $229 for the saw and $169 for the adapter.

     

    I have a MultiVolt drill and circular saw as well as the adapter and can vouch that they are good tools with a good system.  Essentially, you can use 18v or 36v batteries on 18v tools, and 36v batteries or the adapter on 36v tools, making the system similar to the 20v Max/FlexVolt systems.  The difference is that the adapter is designed for all 36v MultiVolt tools while DeWalt's is only compatible with 120v Max tools (the sliding compound miter saw being the sole offering for now).

    • Thanks 1
  6. I'm not sure how well a rebar cutter would work on a case hardened lock.  I still haven't tried the Ryobi bolt cutter on one, but I can attest that regular bolt cutters get chewed up pretty quick cutting locks.  Seven years ago I was tasked with ensuring the success of a new tactical equipment install.  We had a Light Infantry brigade's worth of vehicles, which are usually secured with Series 5200 locks (this is the basic low security lock, also used in arms rooms, but it is substantially more secure than the average Master Lock).  I had to use bolt cutters almost daily for a few weeks, as drivers would park their HMMWVs or other vehicles and lock them up for some reason, despite knowing the trucks had to be pulled into the maintenance bay.  I broke at least three pairs, from decent enough Kobalts to cheap Harbor Freight ones, and damaged the jaws on the others I used.  I even drill out one lock, which took far too long (this was before I had higher performing drills and batteries).

     

    Way back when, I ran rebar for a footing company.  We had a manual cutter which worked pretty well, but we still had to touch up or replace the jaws fairly often.  We usually ran #4 rebar, which was easy to bend for steps or bends in the footer, so I can't imagine that cutter holding up to hardened steels.

  7. I came across this old Skil brochure in a metal jigsaw case I'm giving to a friend.  It's dated 3/98 and shows how far power tools have come in the past quarter century.  To put things in perspective, though, DeWalt 12v Max and 20v Max as well as Milwaukee M12 and M18 were all introduced a little over ten years after this was printed, so the writing was on the wall for the old 7.2v, 9.6v, 12v, and 14.4v Ni-Cad tools by the mid-2000s.

     

    Besides the cordless tools, the other Skil offerings from the time look blocky and lazily designed.  I'm sure they did the job well back then, but most of today's tools are designed to be ergonomic and to distinguish Brand A from Brand B.  The Skill Warrior cordless drills look similar to my Black & Decker Ranger from the mid-'90s. 

     

    When I log into the computer I'll see if I can rotate the pictures.  

     

     

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  8. I haven't had an issue with Milwaukee's warranty, but admittedly have only made one claim so far.

     

    Is it the battery that isn't charging, or the tool that isn't recognizing the battery?  It seems odd that Milwaukee would claim that the tool was exposed to water is the cause for a battery problem.

     

     

  9. I bought my second Ryobi pressure washer last night.  I didn't really need the pressure washer itself...besides the Ryobi I have here there's at least in storage in Georgia...but for the price, $68, it was worth it.  My first Ryobi pressure washer is a beast.  No, it's not overly powerful, but it has sat outside covered in a trash bag for over 1.5 years, through hard freezes and all sorts of weather.  I dragged it around the front of the house a few days ago, plugged it in and connected the hose, and it worked like it was new.  The only problem is that somehow the nozzles disappeared.  I have one nozzle on the wand, and can remove it to apply soap, but that's not exactly efficient as it simply pumps out a bunch of the cleaning solution.  I do have my water broom and scrubber attachments, and I'm sure the nozzles are somewhere in the backyard (probably chewed up by the dogs), but why not just buy new nozzles?  Besides, I needed some siding cleaner.  Off to The Home Depot.

     

    When I arrived, I found a four-pack of PowerCare nozzles for $28.  These don't include the soap nozzle I need.  They have a five-pack of DeWalt nozzles for $38 that includes the soap nozzle, so I picked them up before deciding to look at the pressure washers themselves.  My first, truly neglected Ryobi pressure washer was purchased at the same store a few years ago for about $79 on clearance, so they surely had something marked down.  Then I found the new one.  It's small, but it includes three nozzles including both a soap and turbo nozzle.  The Ryobi turbo nozzle sells for $45 and the DeWalt $78.  Further, there were no standalone soap nozzles, making the new pressure washer a no-brainer.

     

    Anyway, if you need accessories, don't overlook just buying a new tool if the price is right.  As I told the wife when I got home, I not only have the nozzle I needed but also a spare wand and hose, and a backup pressure washer in case the first one finally dies.

    • Like 1
  10. 9 hours ago, wingless said:

    That is a beautiful saw.

     

    It is complete, w/ the sliding miter, rip fence and blade guard, plus all the manuals. Frequently used saws are missing those parts, especially the blade guard and manuals.

     

    Someone would be VERY happy to get that for $100.

     

    My guess would be to ask $500 and sell for $450. (I could be totally wrong on these prices, just seat of pants guess)

     

    My suggestions would be to assemble the pipes for the rip fence and the blade guard so it looks complete.

    I agree, $100 may be undervaluing it, but probably not by much.  I don't sell a lot of things, but I have found that asking a slightly higher but still reasonable price "OBO" works better than setting a lower price.  Either way, a potential buyer is probably going to try to talk you down a bit.  

     

    I found a few mentions of Packard Precision drill presses on other forums.  It seems the tools were imported from Taiwan in the '70s and '80s.  I didn't find reference to the table saw, but the drill presses seemed to have gone for @$150 or so at the time various commenters posted.  

     

    One thing that pops up in most of those threads is the common use of American or Western-sounding brand names for mostly generic Asian imports.  Harbor Freight is an excellent example of this: you can get Chicago Electric and Pittsburg Pro tools in the same store!  It seems that Packard Precision is one such brand, and shows that this isn't a recent phenomenon.  

     

    Even so, you have a fairly vintage table saw in new condition, and it's a brand that even the naysayers seem to consider better quality than modern imports.  To put it in perspective, Harbor Freight currently shows two 10" table saws, at $150 and $350.  Big box stores sell 8-1/4" portable saws for $130.  I'd at least double your asking price, but honestly wingless might have the best advice.  Ask $500; that's almost $200 less than the Delta Lowe's sells.  If someone offers $350, consider giving them a deal.  If there's no interest at that price point, gradually relist it at lower prices.  

     

     

  11. When did the Tool Bug first bite you?  Cheesy term, perhaps, but I'm sure I'm not the only person who started out buying something they needed and then looked at their workbench or in their tool boxes years later to find that they had almost everything imaginable, needed or not, and sometimes in multiple brands or platforms.

     

    I think the philosophy I adopted as a young mechanic evolved to where I am now.  Back then, I had a code where if I needed to borrow a tool three times I'd buy it.  Borrowing tools was usually not a big deal at the dealership, but it was kind of unspoken that if you needed to constantly borrow something you should probably get your own.  This helped me out tremendously when I became a road technician.  It's hard borrowing tools when you're dispatched in a remote location, and there were a couple of trips to Sears to buy something I didn't have (or broke on the jobsite).  Also, having the right tools for the job makes projects or repairs much simpler.  I've used my shared of adjustable wrenches and cheater bars, but having the correct size wrench and an actual breaker bar or impact wrench is much preferred.

     

    When it comes to cordless, the Tool Bug really bit me around 2014-2015.  I had my first Li-Ion cordless tools and was able to find a few great deals to round out the platform.  Around the same time the wife bought a house to flip, located in rural Georgia and in need of extensive electrical work.  Of course, this meant relying solely on cordless tools, and at the time my only batteries were 1.3Ah.  Those tools worked, but by the time the house was sold I was heavily into DeWalt and started to get into Milwaukee and other brands.  Last year she bought another house, and until we replaced the electrical panel we relied on cordless tools, lights, and the DeWalt propane heater.

     

    Now the list of tools I want is small, and the list of tools I need much smaller.  The Tool Bug is expensive to feed but the payoff comes in knowing that almost any repair or renovation can be a DIY job, especially in today's age of internet how-to guides and videos.

  12. I found this comparison of the LCP Max and P-32.  Basically, the LCP Max is about 1/4" thicker, over 1/2' taller and weighs 4 ounces more than the P-32.  My other pocket pistol the Beretta 3032 Tomcat weighs more than the LCP Max but is smaller in most dimensions.  When it comes to self-defense, though, I think the Ruger is worth the slightly larger footprint.  Both the Beretta and Kel-Tec are .32 ACP with a 7+1 capacity.  If I need to defend myself or others, I wouldn't feel unarmed with either of those, but would prefer 10+1 .380 ACP rounds.  

     

    This is the first Ruger I've owned, though I'm sure I'll get another.  I've long considered a 10/22 and wouldn't mind a Mini-14 or Mini-Thirty.  

  13. Well, I have my newest pocket pistol, a Ruger LCP Max.  It's chambered in .380 ACP (aka 9x17 kurz) with a ten round capacity, and 12 round mags are available (the LCP II has a seven round capacity).  The pistol cost $385 and came with one magazine, an extended floor plate, cleared chamber device, cable lock, and a nifty little pocket holster.  It's been a long day, so I haven't done a side-by-side, but it seems to be roughly the same size as my Kel-Tec P32.  

     

    I have some old ammo somewhere but plan to buy a box or two along with at least one spare magazine.  I was tempted by a 3" barreled Taurus 856 for a little less, but decided to fill the niche of a .380 pocket pistol.  

     

    They also had the G45 in stock.  I was considering one a few weeks ago and may still get one eventually, but I don't think it will offer anything over the G17 when carrying.  The barrel and slide are a bit shorter, but I may look into a G19 and/or G26 first.

     

    The LCP Max will probably be my mailbox gun, something to toss in my pocket when I go outside.  Granted, the likelihood of needing a firearm is slim to none, but it's always better to have and not need.

  14. If you think you need and and can afford it, go for it!  The DCF850 has 1825 in-lbs of torque, or slightly over 150 ft-lbs.  The DCF894 advertises 330 ft-lbs, while the M12 3/8" stubby is between those with 250 ft-lbs.  

     

    The 3/8" ratchet is nice, I've owned one for a few years now and it sees much more use than my 1/2" Fuel.

  15. Most of my air tools were stolen along with my compressor over nine years ago.  I was left with my trusty and well-used Ingersoll Rand 231 impact wrench and ended up getting a 1/2" ratchet on clearance at Lowe's.  I'll be honest, I haven't even thought of using air tools for years now.  I have both the newer and older high torque and the mid torque M18 Fuel impact wrenches, DeWalt Xtreme 3/8" impact wrench, M12 Fuel 1/2" ratchet, and the standard m12 3/8" ratchet.  I often think of how nice these would have been when I turned wrenches for a living, especially when I was a road technician often working on equipment in the middle of a warehouse.

  16. Check around the site, and you'll find a lot of varying opinions.  Here in the US, I think that most would argue that either DeWalt or Milwaukee are the "best" brand, with a strong subset of tool users preferring Makita or Bosch.  MetaboHPT is also a very good brand but seems to lack the cult following of the other four.  Other widely available cordless brands in the US include Craftsman, Porter Cable, Kobalt, Skil, Flex, Ryobi, and Ridgid.  Of those seven, the ones I see most often on jobsites are Ryobi tools.  

     

    I can't honestly choose one brand.  I like DeWalt's ergonomics and looks, Milwaukee's power, and Ryobi's low cost.  

    • Like 1
  17. 23 hours ago, Eric - TIA said:

    Great post.  This is always such a hard thing to figure out for me.  Because I am always so back and forth.  Today I like this tool, but tomorrow I can be a fan of another one.  

     

    Drill & Impact are Dewalt for me.  Just like the size, the grip and balance for me.

    Recip and Circular saw are Milwaukee all the way.

    Light - Milwaukee.  Love the M12 Rocket Light.

    Rotary hammer is Bosch bulldog.

     

    However I am excited for the Hilti line up and I am excited to give those a test run.

     

    True, for me sometimes it's a simple matter of what I can find.  Tool organization is all but nonexistent at this time; I'm hoping to organize once I move back to my own house.  DeWalt seems to have designed their grip almost perfectly, to the extent where most of their tools share the same basic grip design.  

     

    The M12 Rocket really is great.  I dragged my M18 Rocket out the other night and was reminded of how heavy it is.  The M12, on the other hand, can easily be used as a giant flashlight, like I use it when crawling under the house.  I had to repair some ductwork last year, so I used one of my M12 Rockets as a brace to hold it in place while the other lit up the work area.

     

    I don't have a Bosch rotary hammer (yet?).  If I find a good deal I may add one to the collection, though.  I have the 18v bandsaw, picked up for about $70 with a free battery starter kit, to complement the much smaller M12 version.  Right now, my go-to rotary hammer is the only cordless one I own, the M18 Fuel D-Handle.  I bought a corded DeWalt 1" SDS-Plus rotary hammer from an acquaintance a year or so ago for $30 but have yet to use it as it doesn't offer anything over the Milwaukee.

  18. I'll have to check out Blaklader, but outside of safety toed shoes, I think I'm set on boots.  I still have a few pairs of new mountain boots along with probably two dozen various black, coyote brown, and tan boots  of various designs.  Same with cold weather and work clothing to an extent.  I'll probably get some more Duluth Firehose Flex pants, but military uniform pants are very common on jobsites over here, and the flame resistant OEF-CP ACU pants are extremely comfortable on the jobsite.

     

    Those heated cooled boots look...interesting.  It doesn't get overly cold in my part of the world (at the height of winter it may drop to around 15 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chill).  In my experience, dry boots are everything in the cold, and the last thing you want is for your feet to start sweating.  At the same time, once your feet (and extremities in general) start getting cold, it's hard to warm them back up.  I bypassed the heater core on my truck a few years ago and recently had to make a late-night trip in 20 degree weather.  Let's just say that it wasn't exactly fun.

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