ChrisK

No problem Dano, appreciate that. So, I just came up from the shop and the new squares are helping me lay out the new pantry I'm building. So much so that I added a back panel and decided to use a two door cabinet instead of one so cut the poplar, dominoed the rails and stiles of the face frame and she's gluing up waiting for another afternoon of fun!

@tugnut1 what router lift did you get? That's an awesome set up!

I just got the mail and got three new things to help with the small stuff! I found a store on eBay that sells a lot of factory second measuring tools and picked up some cool stuff. The store.... http://stores.ebay.com/taylortoolworks/ got my order on the 24th and they just came in today. The little tiny square is going to be perfect for lining up some small cut lines. I bought the sliding square with the 4" rule but the 6" rule fits in there too. The little square is Japanese, the ruler and 4" are USA made and have 1", 32" and 64" delineations on one side and 50ths and 100ths on the other. You know....for wood nerds

Thanks Dano, in the example I wrote 4" thick. Then I recapped by saying 8", it was a typo, I was providing a bunch of information and made a simple typo. Typo fixed

Thanks a lot guys

Cool find. I've actually got this saw and two FSK rails! It's so sweet. I will post a video at some point but nothing yet. The scales on all of my tools come metric but Festool offers an imperial scale to be added aftermarket for all of there tools. I e stuck with metric, it's a little easier for me but when I have to mix the two like last night, the headaches come on!

Welcome to the forum Jeremy!

Oh and the two paintings? My Mom painted! She's quite the artist!

Made some great strides today with the assembly of the basic pantry carcass. I will be adding a 1/4 sheet of plywood to the back, adding a fixed bottom plate and drawer slides for the bottom. A tall drawer will be added to the unit and then a door which will be duplicated to the existing chimney located a try in the kitchen. Final placement will be directly accross from the existing pantry. The unit will be fixed firmly, suspended between the read door and dining room entry way framing and two legs, either turned or tapered, haven't decided, will give the fa se appearance of being weight bearing.

If I'm following your correctly, I've only turned one bowl and haven't actually finished it. It's in a brown bag covered in some type of liquid wax I applied. It's going to end up sitting for quite some time as it cures. I've never heard of the microwave thing though. That's pretty interesting.

Thank you .....SIRI!!!!!!! Saving me from looking like an idiot for three years and counting!!!!!

Funny that. I tell everybody I'm special too. But they just laugh

Welcome to the forum Peders! Glad to have another one of you psychotic plumbers aboard!

Yup, thanks Comp. I actually was referring to the finished piece in that fashion and my local sawyer sells them as linear feet. Thanks dude.

Ahh typo in the second reiteration!!! My bad, I was doing a lot of finger walking! Thanks Ricky. Edited sir!

I guess to help see what I'm talking about, here is a price sheet from a local lumber yard that is fantastic.... http://goosebaylumber.net/PDFs/pricelist.pdf

Happy Easter guys and Gals! I hope for those of you that celebrate, a wonderful day with your families and for those of you that don't, a great Sunday! Chris.

Guys, I just cut and pasted a post I wrote in response to another member. Not everybody follows my shop underway topic and I don't know that I've seen any storage information or how to determine board feet here for us aspiring Woodworkers on this knuckle dragging, burping, farting, man site about tools. Amyways....this is the way I DO IT! There are a lot of members on this forum. Everybody has a way of doing the same thing in a different way or vice versa. I remember the first time I went to a lumber dealer. I was really intimidated. Now? I'd rather go there then Woodcraft! Well....maybe not ENTIRELY true. >>>Cut and pasted from my ongoing saga<<< @PROTOOLNUT THIS IS JUST THE WAY I DO IT! Other members may have a different way of doing it! For me? I just leave wood in my shop to get acclimated to the temperature and humidity levels so it doesn't warp too much. I have some lumber racks that I use, and some saw horses. This process takes a long time in my case. I've got some hardwoods that I've had in the basemeant for over two years! I try not to let wood sit on the floor. When I mill the wood down with jointer and planer, prior to my project (Thanks Matt Cremona!) I let the oversized milled stock sit for a day or two again to re acclimate before building my project. I don't mill them down to final size at this point, just closer to it. This is especially important for cabinets or furniture. Once the wood has moved (if it does) I can then do the final milling process. On wood that I've had for some time, drying and getting acclimated I don't have to be quite as careful, but I use this process for new wood that I've gotten from lumber yard. A lot of the hardwoods I have, have been curing for quite some time These pieces are ready to rock and roll but oversized milling and letting the lumber sit for a day or two isn't a bad idea regardless and I still do this part. This allows the fibers to move however they may. This is also why it's so important to leave things a little oversized before the final mill. Movement will mean you will have to re mill and having some extra wood to shave off is very helpful! As as far as pine stock from big box lumber goes, I'd give yourself a few days or a week in the shop to let it do whatever it's going to do. Remember, your home may be climatized a lot differently from the Home Depot or lowes and the wood will still move if there is a big difference. In my case, it's New England. Super humid, then bone dry. Hot then super cold. Then the wood gets dropped in my basement. So for me, this is really important. Also, if you get super green wood, you should stack the wood outside to dry and sticker it (put sticks in between each level) to allow the wood to dry. Think about when you go to Home Depot (if you can't get good hardwoods or soft woods from a good lumber yard). Your often checking through stacks of wet wood. For framing it's not as big a deal (especially if it's kiln dried. The wood has been baked and the moisture is mostly gone so warping isn't really an issue) but if your going to mill that lumber into a super nice book case (yeah, pine still makes nice furniture) I'd let that wood cure for a while. Also, I'm talking about woodworking. Not building a house, or a shed or a garage or a deck... When you go an buy stacks of PT pine, I have no idea what the process is. I still check boards for true at HD when I buy construction grade sticks. I have built quite a few walls out of PT and kiln dried and letting it sit for days or weeks ain't happening! But....Even PT wood will potato chip! Look at that completely warped piece of crap in every PT lumber stack at HD. That's why I always check the boards to see if they're mostly true. All of this information is relative tomaking furniture. Maybe cabinet faces. And it's just the way I DO things! Everybody has a different way of doing things. I learned these steps from my Dad to watching you're tube videos, to taking classes and the big one...spending cash and watching as I didn't do it right and end up having some wood potato chips. Plywood! Super thin laminates and sometimes MDF, all glued together and into a wood orgy of cabinet / furniture making happiness....super stable. Try to get your plywood from reliable sources. I've had pure crap at Home Depot and then had some luck. The best comes from a lumber yard. Keeping the plywood flat is most important. Plywood can potato chip but it is a very stable surface. I've got some plywood sheets in my shop that have been leaning on a wall for over a year and they are just fine. I am going to start a separate post because this one does not always get a lot of hits but the following is important if you want to get into purchasing wood from a dealer.... Also, if you go to a lumber yard and you don't know what your doing, JUST ASK!!! Wood is normally counted in board feet at these places unless they have finished lumber in which case they may have a flats rate but pretty much everything els follows the board feet rule. I always bring a tape. And my cell phone (or as I like to call it, my video making calculator that lets me price check, watch YouTube and call my Wife). And a hat. It's cold up here. How to Measure Board Feet Thickness x Width x Length (in inches) divided by 144. Example... A 4"x8"x10' Long would equate as follows... 4"t x 8"w x 10'l (120") = 3,840" divided by 144 = 26.6' or 27 board feet (yeah, they like to round up). Dont even ask how to measure a burl or live edge....WAY above my pay grade! If that was black walnut at my local dealer that's at a rate of $12.40 per board foot or..... $334.80 for that sweet stick!!!!! Gasp, cough echh..... What is 4/4???? Lumber at the yard is often described as 4/4 or 6/4 or in the above case 16/4!!!!! What at the heck does that mean????? How do you pronounce that???? Inches are are dived into many things including quarters. Therefore a 1" thick piece of wood has 4 quarters. Therefore.....a 1" thick piece of cherry for instance is a 4/4 piece of wood. In the black walnut example, an 4" (thanks Ricky!) thick piece of wood is 16/4. Simple as that guys! A piece of wood described as 5/4? 1-1/4" thick And in the black walnut example it's pronounced as this.... "hey pal, whaddya getting for that 16 quarter stick of black walnut and how'm I gonna get it in my cah?". What are all those friggin letters next to the 16 quarter piece of Black Walnut I want???? So....this is confusing but it boils down to the milling process. In a nut shell, there is a lot of terminology but these are the ones that matter to me that I try to remember when looking at the price sheet..... S2S two faces surfaced $+ S3S two faces surfaced, one side straight ripped$$+ S4S two faces surfaced, both sides straight ripped $$$ RGH unsurfaced, rough cut $ A lot of information but....I hope this helps!

@PROTOOLNUT THIS IS JUST THE WAY I DO IT! Other members may have a different way of doing it! For me? I just leave wood in my shop to get acclimated to the temperature and humidity levels so it doesn't warp too much. I have some lumber racks that I use, and some saw horses. This process takes a long time in my case. I've got some hardwoods that I've had in the basemeant for over two years! I try not to let wood sit on the floor. When I mill the wood down with jointer and planer, prior to my project (Thanks Matt Cremona!) I let the oversized milled stock sit for a day or two again to re acclimate before building my project. I don't mill them down to final size at this point, just closer to it. This is especially important for cabinets or furniture. Once the wood has moved (if it does) I can then do the final milling process. On wood that I've had for some time, drying and getting acclimated I don't have to be quite as careful, but I use this process for new wood that I've gotten from lumber yard. A lot of the hardwoods I have, have been curing for quite some time These pieces are ready to rock and roll but oversized milling and letting the lumber sit for a day or two isn't a bad idea regardless and I still do this part. This allows the fibers to move however they may. This is also why it's so important to leave things a little oversized before the final mill. Movement will mean you will have to re mill and having some extra wood to shave off is very helpful! As as far as pine stock from big box lumber goes, I'd give yourself a few days or a week in the shop to let it do whatever it's going to do. Remember, your home may be climatized a lot differently from the Home Depot or lowes and the wood will still move if there is a big difference. In my case, it's New England. Super humid, then bone dry. Hot then super cold. Then the wood gets dropped in my basement. So for me, this is really important. Also, if you get super green wood, you should stack the wood outside to dry and sticker it (put sticks in between each level) to allow the wood to dry. Think about when you go to Home Depot (if you can't get good hardwoods or soft woods from a good lumber yard). Your often checking through stacks of wet wood. For framing it's not as big a deal (especially if it's kiln dried. The wood has been baked and the moisture is mostly gone so warping isn't really an issue) but if your going to mill that lumber into a super nice book case (yeah, pine still makes nice furniture) I'd let that wood cure for a while. Also, I'm talking about woodworking. Not building a house, or a shed or a garage or a deck... When you go an buy stacks of PT pine, I have no idea what the process is. I still check boards for true at HD when I buy construction grade sticks. I have built quite a few walls out of PT and kiln dried and letting it sit for days or weeks ain't happening! But....Even PT wood will potato chip! Look at that completely warped piece of crap in every PT lumber stack at HD. That's why I always check the boards to see if they're mostly true. All of this information is relative tomaking furniture. Maybe cabinet faces. And it's just the way I DO things! Everybody has a different way of doing things. I learned these steps from my Dad to watching you're tube videos, to taking classes and the big one...spending cash and watching as I didn't do it right and end up having some wood potato chips. Plywood! Super thin laminates and sometimes MDF, all glued together and into a wood orgy of cabinet / furniture making happiness....super stable. Try to get your plywood from reliable sources. I've had pure crap at Home Depot and then had some luck. The best comes from a lumber yard. Keeping the plywood flat is most important. Plywood can potato chip but it is a very stable surface. I've got some plywood sheets in my shop that have been leaning on a wall for over a year and they are just fine. I am going to start a separate post because this one does not always get a lot of hits but the following is important if you want to get into purchasing wood from a dealer.... Also, if you go to a lumber yard and you don't know what your doing, JUST ASK!!! Wood is normally counted in board feet at these places unless they have finished lumber in which case they may have a flats rate but pretty much everything els follows the board feet rule. I always bring a tape. And my cell phone (or as I like to call it, my video making calculator that lets me price check, watch YouTube and call my Wife). And a hat. It's cold up here. How to Measure Board Feet Thickness x Width x Length (in inches) divided by 144. Example... A 4"x8"x10' Long would equate as follows... 4"t x 8"w x 10'l (120") = 3,840" divided by 144 = 26.6' or 27 board feet (yeah, they like to round up). Dont even ask how to measure a burl or live edge....WAY above my pay grade! If that was black walnut at my local dealer that's at a rate of $12.40 per board foot or..... $334.80 for that sweet stick!!!!! Gasp, cough echh..... What is 4/4???? Lumber at the yard is often described as 4/4 or 6/4 or in the above case 16/4!!!!! What at the heck does that mean????? How do you pronounce that???? Inches are are dived into many things including quarters. Therefore a 1" thick piece of wood has 4 quarters. Therefore.....a 1" thick piece of cherry for instance is a 4/4 piece of wood. In in the black walnut example, an 4" thick piece of wood is 16/4. Simple as that guys! A piece of wood described as 5/4? 1-1/4" thick And in the black walnut example it's pronounced as this.... "hey pal, whaddya getting for that 16 quarter stick of black walnut and how'm I gonna get it in my cah?". What are all those friggin letters next to the 16 quarter pice of Ash I want???? So....this is confusing but it boils down to the milling process. In a nut shell, there is a lot of terminology but these are the ones I try to remember when looking at the price sheet..... S2S two faces surfaced $+ S3S two faces surfaced, on side straight ripped$$+ S4S two facessurfaced, both sides straight ripped $$$ RGH unsurfaced, rough cut $ A lot of information but....I hope this helps! >>>Edit....I just added this whole thing to a separate post. There are a lot of guys that don't read my post and some of the I formation may be useful

@PROTOOLNUT nope, I'm building my wife her tack trunk so she can put her saddle I just bought her in a protective decorative trunk, this project, which is a new kitchen pantry and my out feed table. Believe it or not, still not done. Getting a lot of use but it still isn't complete. Plus, I have the hardware coming for a Moxon vise I will be building out of some nice hardwoods I've been curing for about two years. The shop is just a pure mess because I'm doing too many things. I know better but hey. I'm Chris.

Well brother, you just drive your butt up here and I will take care of you. You'll go home with a set of custom built kitchen cabinets. And probably a head injury. I've got three projects going on at the same time and I BIFFED Amy head on a plumbing intersection just before filming this. Ow.

Smooth as glass finish, no tear out, little dust, dead nuts accurate, riving knife in my Festool so no binding and no dangerous kickback, the list goes on. And on. And on....

Well Protool. They're not necessary. They just make things faster, easier, smarter. Hey....? Isn't that their slogan?

Welcome to the forum dude!

Thanks to my Wife and Mother in Law messing with things in the kitchen and living room I found a reason to make a second pantry. This one will be roughly 76" tall, about 11-15/16 deep and will have adjustable shelves. I designed the idea in my head, as usual. So....what does that mean? A disaster. But I got to play with one of my favorite tools and set ups. The Festool OF1400 router with the LR32 and a Midi vac. The victim....3/4 Birch veneer plywood....