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NicholasShetley

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Posts posted by NicholasShetley

  1. 1 hour ago, BMack37 said:

    Stopped in a random pawn shop for the hell of it. Dig around and find a bunch of new in packaging Dremel bits and flex shaft attachment. The only used bits are the lower left and only two of those are used, though I am missing a couple from one of the collet packs. Everything in this pic cost $20

    tbcBi47.jpg

    You stole all of that BMack. The flex shaft alone is $30 isn't it.

    • Like 2
  2. 11 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

    I love how I got more knowledgeable information on this tool forum in 20 minutes than I got in a year from a dedicated forum fory motor. The crew is the best.

    I'm not going to tech school for nothing lol. Glad I could help. If you need help with anything else just ask

    • Like 2
  3. 4 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

    Crap, you're right, I forgot that I was talking about an LS. These aren't carbbed motors. An O2 sensor sorta is critical to these things. Or would it just use a default mapping without the sensor? I know when Hondas lose connection with the O2 sensor they default to the base Tune that's slightly on the rich side to be safe.

    If they lost the O2 sensors it would use the MAF sensor and the TP sensor an reference. I'm sure that they can be programmed to work without an O2 sensor because there are a few carberauted intakes out there for them. You still need the electronics for the ignition though

  4. 7 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:

    Wait, how does he propose you pime your hydraulic flat tappet lifters? Just use an oil pump primer? The motor is basically done. I just need to check the clearance on the rocker arms and break it in. I've had quite a bit of guys tell me how to break it in. Each have their own different method. The one guy I trust told me to do it twice before I start the driving break in period. Do you use break in oil? What I've been told the best way to go is just to use oil with no detergents or additives and mix in the ZDDP break in additive that Crane and Lucas make.

    You use an oil pump primer. For engine oil we used shell rotella T oil. It is a diesel oil and contains zinc in it. That's what we have always ran on all of our trucks and cars in our entire family that use flat tappet lifters. You want to run the priming tool until oil comes out of each rocker arm so none are dry on start up. You will want to hold the engine at 2300 to 2600 rpms for about half an hour and don't hold it at a steady rpm either. You need to rev it up to keep the lifters spinning to get the wear pattern set. 

  5. 1 hour ago, PROTOOLNUT said:

    Oh hell ya, that is what I am talking about! I am going to rev that bitch up to 6000 RPM's, Ima going to let the world know I don't give a shit, I am about to get all up into your shit, while I fly past you record speed. Honk honk, get out of the grandmaw, your crushing my vibe. Thats right, I won the race, you puny bitches got nothing on me HAHA.

     

    Seriously though, thanks for sharing, really love that shit. And my Milwaukee cordless drill couldn't start that motor. However, my Milwaukee 8-AMP corded drill probably could start that beast. Afterall, arn't most engine start motors around 8 to 10 amp?

    The starter for my truck draws 200 amps. No chance for your electric drill. The fumes on that thing look like they might get to ya after a while. I wonder where they are going to put all of the control modules too.

  6. 7 hours ago, Stercorarius said:

    The hammers have to go on the back burner for now. No more tools for the next couple months. I've got bad synchros on my car, need to rebuild the motor, Aka scrap the whole thing. So I have to get a new set of wheels which means I have to finish my project vehicle this month.

    That blows. Didn't you say you drove a Honda.

  7. I would imagine that tgey would be fine but you could roll them on something that is flat and see if they are still straight. Our engines teacher always told us to never soak the lifters in oil as well. How much longer before the engine is done? I can give you some tips on how to break it in. Also engine assembly lube is your friend.

    • Like 1
  8. Stuart from toolguyd posted an article on some new Bosch recip saws. One is an 18v and the other is corded. The corded one has a 1600 watt motor and has a nearly 12 inch wood cutting capacity. They also contain a counter weight in the gearbox for reduced vibration as well. They are to be released in September in Europe. No word on a USA release yet.http://toolguyd.com/bosch-ergonomic-cordless-corded-reciprocating-saws/?utm_source=post&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=next-posts

  9. I finally got to use this impact today and it definitely has some power. I used it to remove a rear end cover and an axle on a 2000 Chevy one ton 4wd. The truck had a full floating axle so they unbolt from the wheel hubs and pull out. While I was next to the wheel I figured I would try it on a lug nut and if also took it off no problem too. All of this was on a compact battery too.

    image.jpeg

  10. 22 hours ago, BMack37 said:

     

    haha, man I should have ordered more than the 6" pliers wrench and the 70 degree bent pliers, I think Sears has the 10" which means with points I can get it for free. I have the others already ;) Love the needle nose and the cutters are the best I've ever owned, no contest.

    Sears does have the 10 inch. At least mine did. I picked mine up there a good while ago and don't regret getting them one bit. I do regret not getting them sooner though.

     
     
     
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